Prose of seeking roots and asking ancestors

In ten days, 20 15 will be a thing of the past, and the "National Tourism Annual Ticket Card" will also end its mission and become a souvenir. 18+0 On February 20th and 20th, Guoxiang organized the last "Journey of Seeking Roots and Asking for Ancestors", making full use of the afterheat of 20 15 "National Tourism Annual Ticket Card".

First, Guangsheng Temple

Guangsheng Temple is located at the south foot of Huoshan Mountain, northeast of Hongdong County, Linfen City 17 km. We got off the expressway in Mingjiang Town, Hongdong, and vaguely saw the Hongfei Tower of Guangsheng Temple. It's like a dream, looming, and the sun shines wearily on the tower through thick smoke. The thick smog took away the brilliance of the colorful glass, and we could only see the tower without gray balls standing on the top of the mountain.

Hongfei Pagoda of Guangsheng Temple, built in Ming Dynasty, is one of the five existing pagodas and four existing pagodas in China. This is also the only glazed tower with an inscription by craftsmen found so far. The octagonal tower has thirteen floors, and its body is made of blue bricks. The exterior is inlaid with colorful colored glass, and there are colored glass eaves at all levels. Under each roof, there are glazed flower covers, hanging lotus columns, and glazed components such as houses, pavilions, pavilions, corner columns, shrines, doorways, hearts, flowers, figures, phoenixes, lions and elephants. There are statues of Buddha, Bodhisattva and boy in the doorway, and decorations such as glazed panlong and orb are inlaid on both sides of the doorway. The three floors below are particularly exquisite, with lotus chair posts, Buddha statues, bodhisattvas, Crouching Tiger, rare birds and animals painted on them. There are more than 100 iron bells hanging on the eaves of the tower, which jingle in the wind, as if to spread the harmonious Buddhist sound in all directions. The tower is hollow, and the winding wooden stairs lead to the top of the tower, with steep terrain and ingenious design.

It is also called "the three wonders of Guangsheng Temple" with the gold wares of Ta and Zhao and the murals of Yuan Dynasty. Guangsheng Temple was built in the Eastern Han Dynasty and divided into two temples. The Hongfei Pagoda is located in the upper hall, and the murals of the Yuan Dynasty are hidden in the lower hall. The lower temple is on the bank of the fire spring, far from the upper temple on the top of the mountain. The living spring outside Sixia Gate is still running day and night, nourishing more than 700,000 children in Hongdong. It is said that when 1958 built the intercepting trough, there were 108 big springs in the trough, and now only five springs are out of water, and the water output of these five springs is also reduced by half compared with previous years.

At the edge of the spring, there is a water temple where Zhao Cheng, the ancestor of Hongdong, worships the fire spring. The main hall is Mingying Palace, resting on the top of the mountain, with double eaves and verandahs around it. In the temple, there is a statue of Wang Mingying sitting in the middle of the shrine, with four boys and girls serving on both sides. Plastic workers are extremely exquisite, clothes and accessories fit together, with a quiet look and a lovely image; There are two rows of clay statues of four ministers under the niche, with different colors and vivid expressions. The Yuan Dynasty mural of "Three Wonders of Guangsheng Temple" is in this hall. The tour guide told me that there are nearly 200 square meters of murals here, and there are rain-seeking and rain-seeking pictures, fairy tales and fantastic imagination on the east and west walls. In addition, there are several pictures of selling fish, eating vegetables, playing ball games and playing chess, which are full of local customs. There are gardens, cottages, markets, various figures and folk customs on the screen, just like a microcosm of the society in the Yuan Dynasty, full of rich flavor of life and local color. Especially on the south wall on the east side of the temple gate, there is a very precious famous painting reflecting the drama of the Yuan Dynasty. It is the only large-scale drama mural in Yuan Dynasty found in China. At the top of the picture is a banner, which is the book "A Great Company Dispels Music and Loyalty to Dou Xiu". The drama scene is the collective appearance of a troupe, with the monitor "loyal to Dou Xiu" in the middle. Among the eleven characters, all painted faces, some hung beards, some held props such as water boards, knives and gongshan, and played three kinds of musical instruments, drum music, flute playing and clapping hands. This painting reflects the real scene of the prevalence of zaju in Yuan Dynasty, and is a valuable material for studying the history of drama. The gate of the Water Temple is an ancient "transmission stage". Every year on the third day of the third lunar month, the troupe is invited to sing a big play to worship Huo Quan.

What makes me curious is that the lower hall of Guangsheng Temple is separated from the water hall by a wall. Perhaps the management department made a temporary door in the partition between Shuishe Temple and Guangsheng Temple for convenience. After visiting Shuisi, you can enter Xiasi from the side door and come to the Buddha Hall in front of Xiasi. The temple is five rooms wide and hangs from the top of the mountain. The whole hall adopts herringbone climbing beam, which has unique structure and economical materials. The back hall is the Great Buddha Hall, which was built in the Kaiyuan period of the Tang Dynasty. The existing buildings were rebuilt in the Yuan Dynasty. The main hall is seven rooms wide and eight rafters deep, with a single eaves hanging from the top of the mountain. Buddha statues such as Pilufo, Pharmacist Buddha, Amitabha Buddha, Manjusri and Pu Xian are preserved in the temple, which are rare treasures. The gate of the lower hall is the Heavenly King Hall, which is three rooms wide and rests on the top of the mountain with a single eaves. From a distance, there is a pavilion with double eaves, and there is no colonnade under the eaves. It is equipped with modern wood carvings, eighteen arhats and Maitreya statues.

From the temple to the temple, you can drive up, climb the steps and climb up from the thorns. We climbed up devoutly. Hongfei Pagoda is a great scenic spot of Guangsheng Temple. There is also a strange landscape in the temple-several cypress trees, which are bright yellow advocated by Buddhism. All the cypresses I have seen before are green. Only here can I see the cypress tree. Isn't it because cypress trees are influenced by Buddhism every day that they become Buddhist? After I came back, I checked the information on the Internet and found that there was only a news report in 2002: a new tree species-golden cypress was discovered in Vietnam. I wonder if it's with the thinking Huangbai family?

Leave Guangsheng Temple and visit the former site of Sophora japonica in Hong Tong. The big locust tree at the time of immigration has disappeared, and the existing locust tree is the descendant of that year, just like us. In order to catch up with the old mountain, we didn't go in to find our distant ancestors, but took a group photo outside the garden gate as a souvenir.

2. Old Mountain

Gushe Mountain belongs to Luliang Mountain and is located in Yaodu District, Linfen City. Legend has it that it is the birthplace of Lu Xian, the wife of Wang Yao, and it is famous for the saying that "there are gods living in the mountains" in Zhuangzi's "Happy Travel". After a long walk, I saw a pile of ruins, dust and rubble beside the roadside ditch. On the other side of the road, couplets are posted in some caves. There were incense of Buddha statues and candles in the cave, but no one saw them. The sound of chanting in a cave halfway up the mountain is melodious, which sounds like there is a player in the cave. I'm afraid the temple here will not be repaired because of the need of the road, and the road has passed through the temple. From then on, even if you enter the Xiandonggou of Laoshe Mountain, this cave may be one of the scenic spots in the North Xiandong of Foxing Temple. There are Wu Yun Temple, Wang Muting and other temples in Beixian Cave. Standing on the ruins of the Buddha Star Temple, looking across the ditch, the pavilions on the balcony are dazzling and close at hand.

When I was a child, I heard an adult tell a story. People on this side of the ditch talked a lot with people on the other side of the ditch every day, but they visited a relative across the street every few days. This time, walking from Beixian Cave to Nanxian Cave in front of us really verified the truth of this story. We drove the car through the middle of the ditch and walked zigzag for a long time. In the past, we rode donkeys and carriages. From Beixian Cave to Nanxian Cave, we had to bypass deep ditches and canals hundreds of meters deep, but we didn't have to walk for a few days.

There are far more temple statues in Nanxian Cave than in Beixian Cave, including Xinglong Temple, Shenju Cave, Biyan Temple, Guanyin Pavilion, Stage, and the etymology of "bridal chamber", which is said to be the bridal chamber of Yao Di and Luxian. Nanxian Cave is the main scenic spot of Xiandonggou in Ancient Snake Mountain. There are steep peaks, strange caves, temples, pines and cypresses. Pavilions, pavilions, large and small halls, built by mountains and cliffs. Here, Confucianism, Buddhism and Taoism live not only in the same mountain, but also in the same room. Guanyin Pavilion is dominated by avalokitesvara statues, with Manjusri and Pu Xian statues on both sides, and twelve squares, Yamaraja, Lohan and Twenty-four Celestial Realms hanging on the fourth floor of the two walls. Delicate and delicate, as if floating from ancient times. There are also statues of Guanyin, Guanyin in New Year, Wei Tuo, King Kong and Xuanwu Emperor in Taoism, and Buddhism and Taoism are harmonious.

The most shining thing in front of us is the green bamboo in the courtyard of Ursa major, which makes people feel distressed. There are few bamboos in the north, so it's especially refreshing to see delicate bamboos on the mountain in this cold winter.

Three. Linfen ancient city

So it's very late to see the immortals in Sheshan, and we stayed in an inconspicuous express hotel next to Shanxi Normal University in Linfen. Among the twelve people in this group, three are students of normal university. When we live here, we can visit our alma mater. The school gate of Normal University is like a building block. As soon as I entered the school gate, the bungalows piled up into tall buildings, and the vacated space was made into a square. The tall buttonwood and acacia trees on both sides of the road were replaced by spruce trees that are almost everywhere. The teaching building, dormitory, staff dormitory and family building 30 years ago are still in use, but things have changed long ago. Students sit in the classroom between our children and grandchildren. The wall that can prove the long history of Linfen ancient city is about to disappear. The original Linfen Park was expanded to the north of the campus, and several teaching buildings were built. There is a row of bungalows like specimens between the old and new campuses. I wanted to have breakfast in the student canteen and experience the taste of big pot rice again, but just after eight o'clock, the canteen closed.

Next door to Normal University is Linfen Museum, which is actually a cultural relic storage place set up in Dayun Temple. Locals used to call Dayun Temple Iron Buddha Temple, named after the iron casting Buddha head in Tang Dynasty. The existing buildings include the Mountain Gate, the Heavenly King Hall, the Ursa Major Hall, the Jinding Pagoda, the Tibetan Scripture Building, the South-North Annex Hall, and the wing rooms. The main building, Jinding Pagoda, is six stories square. The Linfen County Records records that "there is always light at the top of the tower and a relic cloud." We went too early, the staff didn't go to work, the exhibition room didn't open, so we walked around the yard.

Linfen is an ancient city with a history of more than 4700 years. It was the first ideal city conquered by the * * * Production Party during the War of Liberation, and accumulated rich siege experience for the War of Liberation. Thirty years ago, the streets of Linfen were lined with all kinds of fruit trees, which was a famous' city of flowers and fruits'. Now the fruit trees don't know where their souls have gone. Linfen is one of the birthplaces of Chinese civilization and the imperial capital of Yao, Shun and Yu. It is said that Yao was the earliest ancestor who appointed Kyushu to unify the Chinese nation, and he opened the door to the 5,000-year civilization of the Chinese nation. In order to commemorate this great ancestor, later generations began to build a temple in Linfen, Yao's hometown, which is now the ancestral temple of China people-Yao Temple.

Thousands of years of wind, frost, rain and snow, Yao Temple passed by, destroying buildings and destroying them. The newly-built Huamen is by far the highest gate in the world, and it is called "the first gate in the world". Huamen Square has reduced Tiananmen Square and Jinshui Bridge. There are majestic Great Wall, granite memorial wall with thousands of surnames, Yao and Qin stone carvings with 24 solar terms, and tall Hua Biao stone carvings.

The "Five Pagodas" is the oldest building in Yao Temple and the only existing building in Ming and Qing Dynasties. The "Five Peaks Pagoda" is also called "Guangtian Pavilion", which symbolizes the merits of Emperor Yao, the brightness of the world and the blessings of all peoples. The old objects preserved in Yao Temple are four ancient cypresses around, and the two trees in the west are "Bai Zhiying" and "Bai Bao Sophora", that is, a catalpa tree grows in the middle of one cypress tree and a locust tree grows in the middle of another cypress tree. In April and May every year, among the cypress trees, Sorbus rubra and Sophora japonica compete to open; There are two ancient cypresses on the east side, one is called "Minglubai" and the other is called "Laughing at Night". According to legend, in the Tang Dynasty, when the statues of Emperor Yao and his wife Lu Xian were carved in the bedroom, a pair of sika deer suddenly ran and sang happily under the cypress, so they were called "white". So far, its branches look like the horns of sika deer. It is said that there was a monk who was transplanted from India in ancient times. Every year on New Year's Eve, he made a rustling sound, which was quite similar to human laughter, so he was called "night laughter".

Four. Ding Cun dwellings

Ding Cun, which belongs to Xiangfen County, is famous for the discovery of paleolithic sites. Ding Cun's folk houses, with the light of Ding Cun ruins, have entered the sight of tourists.

A few kilometers away from the village, Ding Cun's business card, the newly-built antique archway, comes into view, and there is a broad tourist avenue under the archway. When I came to Ding Cun, the villagers said that there was nothing to see at the site, and most of the sites had been moved away, so they stopped visiting the site.

Ding Cun residential buildings are typical in Ming and Qing Dynasties, and more than 40 buildings are listed as national key cultural relics protection. It was first built in the twenty-first year of Wanli in the Ming Dynasty and last for nearly 400 years in the Republic of China. Due to the reproduction and development of clans, residential groups are distributed in the northeast and southwest directions according to ethnic groups, and are divided into three parts: North Yard, Intermediate Yard, South Yard and South Yard. These three groups are divided into three parts: north, south, middle and south, with Kannonji, an Amin dynasty building in the center of the village, as the leader and T-shaped street as the latitude and longitude. The planning and layout of the whole village is turtle-shaped. These houses are reasonable in layout, elegant in architectural style, simple and elegant, winding and secluded, with scattered courtyards and ingenious connections. Although there are architectural features in southern Shanxi, I don't think it is as high as the houses of Shanxi merchants in Jinzhong, nor is it as imposing as the houses in Jinzhong. The buildings in Ding Cun residential courtyards have different layouts and shapes. With two-story quadrangles as the main structure, there are single entrance and double entrance. The second floor of the wing is a low attic, which can only be used for placing sundries and keeping warm and sun-proof, which is different from the pattern that people can live on the second floor of Jinzhong. The overall layout is the main hall, waist hall, wing, viewing building, embroidered building, inverted seat, archway, gatehouse, archway and so on. On building components, such as bucket arches, sparrows, wind boards, columns, lintels, window sills, screen walls, plaques, etc., there are reliefs of figures, birds and animals, flowers and plants everywhere. One of the houses was carved with feathers and wings instead of pearls. I wonder if this is a mistake or what it means. There are many "Kanzhai Gates" at the entrance of Ding Cun Mansion, and there are screen walls in the gates. There is no luxurious gatehouse in Jinzhong. Above the simple gate, almost every family is engraved with auspicious lintels, mostly "magnanimous", "ploughing", "ploughing" and "accumulating thick light". The walls of the building are covered with nails used to strengthen the walls, and some of them also serve as horse hoops. The most representative is the courtyard occupied by Ding Kun Fifth Courtyard, a branch of Ding Cun Folk Museum, and Ding Cun Cultural Exhibition Hall.

Ding Cun Folk Museum was established in 1985, with a collection of nearly 10,000 folk cultural relics. It is the first special museum in China that reflects the folk customs of the Han nationality. With the theme of festival customs, marriage customs, etiquette and folk art, the museum shows the seasons, food, clothing, housing and transportation, life etiquette, weddings and funerals, folk calligraphy and painting, folk paper-cutting, folk woodblock New Year pictures, folk embroidery, and cultural relics such as Ding Mo, shadow play and religious beliefs of the Han nationality in southern Shaanxi.

There are also two special courtyards. One is near the dry pool and has a balcony. From the outside, it is a two-story building, and the second floor can also be used for living. A carved fence platform extends from the back wall on the second floor. Unfortunately, the gate is locked, so you can't go in and have a look. There is also a gatehouse on the gate, which looks like a pavilion or ancestral temple from a distance.

Ding Cun residential buildings have been listed in the World Cultural Heritage List, but the protection is not satisfactory. Many courtyards have only one side facing the street, which has already collapsed and been destroyed. It seems that there are many image projects to create a civilized city.

The living habits of Dingcun people are different from those of Jinzhong people. Jinzhong people prefer to live in the main room, while Dingcun people live in the east and west wing rooms. Villagers in Ding Cun are still using primitive Ding-type mud stoves to burn wood for cooking. They visited several families, and only the old people lived in them. Their home is dark and messy, and their clothes are shiny and shiny. This kind of dressing was very common in the countryside before the reform and opening up, because it was poor at that time and people had to wear clothes from spring to winter. I saw it for the first time after the reform and opening up. This living condition of the villagers is out of place with the magnificent tourist square and the magnificent archway outside the village, which seems out of place.

5. Fencheng Ancient Town

The ancient town of Fencheng was an Egongbao fief in Weichi Gong in the early Tang Dynasty. In the seventh year of Tang Zhenguan, the county was moved from the ancient city to Taiping County, and was renamed Fencheng County in the Republic of China. After liberation, Fencheng County and Xiangling County merged into Xiangfen County, and the town was built by the county, which is a famous historical and cultural town in China. Thanks to the fall of the town, such a primitive and basically complete specimen of county governance in Ming and Qing dynasties will be preserved, so that we can appreciate the face of the county in Ming and Qing dynasties. We arrived just in time for the temple fair in Fen Town. Businessmen gathered in the street, and the cries of different lengths came and went. The shrill whistle came from all kinds of cars crowded with people and crawling like snails. It took us a lot of effort to move to the vicinity of the Drum Tower in the center of the ancient town step by step.

Fencheng has many well-preserved ancient buildings, and even has a special cultural relics management department, which is rare at the township level. We walked around the Chenghuang Temple, but we couldn't find a place to go in. Just as we were chirping outside the temple and commenting on the magnificent and exquisite buildings that could be seen in the street, the eldest brother passing by gave us a message that the key of the Chenghuang Temple was in the hands of the staff of the cultural relics library next door. Thanks to the management of storage, it opens the door for us to enjoy. Opposite the gate of Chenghuang Temple, the shadow wall of a group unicorn with double dragons is mottled, and on both sides, it is faintly discernible that "life and death are endless, and anthropomorphic changes are endless". A couplet tells the truth of human philosophy. A pair of stone flagpoles are erected on both sides of the screen wall, and an archway across the street is erected on one side of the mountain gate. The memorial archway is engraved with "Supervision Square" on one side and "Yizhen Square" on the other to remind passers-by to sit here and help officials supervise your words and deeds. The existing buildings of Chenghuang Temple, such as the mountain gate, stage, sacrificial hall, main hall, bell and drum tower, wing and attached hall, are well preserved. There are seven five-arched mountain gates. As soon as I came in, I found a stage across the street. The wooden structure of the stage is gorgeous and unique. There is a gallery in front of the hall opposite the stage. The pavilion in front of the gallery is ingenious and beautiful!

Cross the bridge and you will see the altar of the country. Both sides of the temple facing the street are surrounded by the newly-built town health center, and the interior has been repaired. However, there is no formal entrance to the social altar, which needs to enter through the gap in the inpatient building of the health center. The main existing buildings are the memorial hall, the great hall, the bell and drum tower, etc. Although there are not many buildings, the cornices are layered and scattered, which is exquisite and unique.

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I hurried to worship my ancestors in Linfen for two days, exploring the past and seeking seclusion, savoring the customs of different times and appreciating different customs. ...