China's magical Dunhuang! Have you ever been there?

Crescent spring

I'm on my way again, taking dreams as horses, pounding hooves, crossing the Hexi Corridor day and night, and parked in the lonely Dunhuang.

I am the lonely bird. Pick all the cold branches and refuse to rest? , but willing to stay in the hot Gobi.

The fascination with Dunhuang is not due to the Mogao Grottoes, the crescent spring in Mingsha Mountain, the Yangguan and Yumenguan Gate, or the silent Ya Dan. But years of attachment, because of the young meaning buried in my heart: I used to whip a famous horse because of drunkenness, but I was afraid that I was tired of beauty.

I love its endless Gobi, where the air seems to be burning, and I am shocked by the Great Wall of Han Dynasty gradually disappearing in the sand.

I like the fireworks on this sandbar. Walking happily through its khaki alley, you can meet local people selling fruits and vegetables with shoulder poles along the way.

I love its stubbornness and persistence. Under the delicate appearance of the town, it is precisely because of this respectable and terrible temperament that the harsh natural environment has erected a white flag that is close to people's will.

Think of Liang Sicheng's definition of Dunhuang;

Just like19th century Shanghai, only facing the Gobi Desert. It is blocking, and it is also a way. From east to west, it was the last city of Chinese civilization at that time, and it came from the west. This is the first city they met.

I'm impressed. Dunhuang is an extreme and the most active waywardness of civilization; It fits perfectly with the fanaticism in the bottom of my heart. When people want to indulge themselves comfortably, they will position themselves here without thinking.

Why not Dunhuang? Buy a plane ticket, all the way to Wan Li, the Millennium is going backwards. The poem and the distance you want are in Dunhuang at the westernmost end of Hexi Corridor.

door

I fell in love with my memory. It's that door. Push it away and it will shine brightly.

Second, my Dunhuang

Three years later, I still chew the time I spent in Dunhuang from time to time. Today, I can't confirm my dream with my footsteps for the time being, so it is also a way to return to my dream with memories.

Dunhuang in the morning, blue sky, sunshine and clear shade.

Because of my worship of the Mogao Grottoes, I went to the Mogao Grottoes by bus without stopping.

The impressions along the way are clean. There are iconic sculptures in the city? Fly into the sky and meet your eyes.

flying Apsaras

The Mogao Grottoes need to reserve tickets. Due to lack of experience, we didn't go in. Go back to the city and settle down first.

I am very rough in details, and I will be meticulous in important matters. I am not vague about the three key elements of travel: food, shelter and transportation. And playing with jet lag, I also got the true meaning.

Just like going to Dunhuang this time, we choose the time when the off-season and the peak season alternate, and the hotel will be very cheap, so we choose it ourselves; Chartered cars are also very affordable, so you can bid by yourself. As for food, like local people, it won't be too expensive to eat authentic food around residential buildings in the city center.

You can carefully arrange your itinerary when you check in. It is most appropriate to put the biggest obsession, Mogao Grottoes, on the day before departure. The crescent spring in Mingsha Mountain must be arranged, and the sunshine Yumenguan must go for a walk. ? People who leave Xiyangguan for no reason? And then what? Doesn't the spring breeze pass through Yumen Pass? Only when you are there can you walk into life from books.

I won't introduce the places where my friends in Dunhuang will go. Let's give a detailed introduction to the unpopular spots where Li Guangxing sat.

1, Yulin Cave

Yulin Grottoes

The Mogao Grottoes are radiant, and most people will be confused when they hear the words Yulin Grottoes. People with rich geographical knowledge will even think of Shaanxi.

However, Yulin Grottoes are Dunhuang Grottoes. As far as the richness of its historical performance is concerned, the contributions and achievements of the Tang Dynasty and Xixia in the inheritance of Buddhism have surpassed those of the Mogao Grottoes here.

It is 70 kilometers south of Guazhou County, Gansu Province, also known as Wanfo Gorge, Yulin Temple and Shangdongzi. It is an art treasure house dug on the cliffs on both sides of the Yulin River Canyon, named after the elms on both sides of the river.

It is very similar to the Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang, so its protection and management belong to Dunhuang Research Institute.

Quietly, the beauty of vicissitudes will hurt people and become a means of etching, and people will never get rid of its power.

Tang Priest's scriptures

I visited two caves on purpose when I went there. The murals in the grottoes depict? Xuanzang studied maps? As the earliest theme in similar murals, it is a mythical interpretation and creation of Xuanzang's story of learning from the scriptures.

Walking out of the grottoes and into the tall elm forest, I looked up and saw the ancient sky.

2. Suoyang City

Suoyangcheng

Cynomorium songaricum is a kind of traditional Chinese medicine, which is produced in desert areas where Nitraria tangutorum and fuelwood grow and in desert grasslands, grassland deserts, rivers, lakes, pools and other habitats in saline-alkali areas. It is a succulent parasitic herb with strong vitality. The whole plant has no chlorophyll and is reddish brown.

Suoyang, built in the Western Jin Dynasty more than 1700 years ago, is a transportation hub connecting the Central Plains and the Western Regions on the ancient Silk Road. Time flies, has long been in ruins, in the Gobi desert wind and scorching sun beyond recognition.

However, in the Tang Dynasty, Xue was trapped in this city when he went to the West. After running out of ammunition and food, they insisted on eating Cynomorium until reinforcements arrived, and * * * defeated the Tubo army.

When you wander in this bloody site, you will become the frontier poems that affect the cultural character of every man in China, and they will ring in your ears like thunder. For example, Huang Sha, dressed in shining armor, fought in hundreds of battles and vowed not to return Loulan.

3. Deep in Ya Dan

Wilderness sunset

I want to count the stars in Gobi and wait for spring in Yumenguan. I want to row the crescent spring like a camel, yearning for the sand sea, the girl, you and Dunhuang.

I copied an article written by my son about Dunhuang. It was after crossing Yumen Pass and heading west to Ya Dan Geopark in Dunhuang. The 8-year-old child is full of poetry, immersed in the hot sun and writing down his ideals. The reward is that I will take him out of the open space of the scenic spot, stay in the grotesque land pile, wait for the sun to set and look at the stars all over the sky.

I am a person who abides by the rules very much. After consulting with the scenic spot management, I rented an off-road vehicle and rushed to the hinterland of the scenic spot, making an exception and staying at sunset.

Thousands of years of loneliness have gone beyond the scope of scenery, just like Lop Nur, the ear of the earth: silence is for better listening. We also dare to face loneliness, because love goes hand in hand.

Third, fireworks in Dunhuang.

Every day in Dunhuang, I pursued the Gobi Desert non-stop. Beautiful, poetic, rough skin, melanin doubled. Naturally, there needs to be a place to put the excited and tired body.

At this time, the gentle township became the home front. Danghe River is moving, so that the feeling of getting used to dripping water is no longer thirsty; There are apricot trees in the shade, which makes the ordinary low and sparse green dotted with boundless desolation return to my hometown.

Be sure to take time to visit the town and listen to the noise of the night market when the lights are brightly lit.

Dunhuang night market

Then, away from the night market, choose a dimly lit shop without a storefront to pull a bowl of skin.

Dunhuang's most famous donkey meat yellow noodles have to be found in some obscure alleys. Shopkeepers who speak strange Mandarin usually tilt their talent for learning languages to the skill of making noodles.

In Dunhuang, you can also eat authentic mutton skewers, sit in roadside stalls, sip large pieces of oily mutton and drink beer. You are familiar with Urumqi, your own mountain city, Chongqing.

Li Guangxing, a special product of Dunhuang, is probably the only apricot that can really compete with it. Watermelon and cantaloupe produced in the western regions are sweet grapes that attract bees and butterflies. They are delicious and cheap.

Because of the fruit, I seldom eat big meals. Only tropical fruits in Hainan can be compared, and it is an era to eat bayberry with an open belly in Zhejiang Xianju Bayberry Garden.

Fourth, only Dunhuang.

Mogao Grottoes

There is really only Dunhuang. You can't help thinking when you leave. The element you miss is not a point, but a net, which is magically linked in your mind by memory cells. Then it will spread out regardless of time and cost, making people miss a past process and gradually put it away.

As soon as this net comes out of the water, it is a passionate and meaningful life.

I have been in Dunhuang, and I am a poet who looks at the sword by lighting a lamp.

Walking through Dunhuang, you are a warrior on the battlefield.

We are all passers-by, but fortunately, Dunhuang is engraved with the traces of our visit.