Jill, Chang County, Jingjiang City

Jingjiang Changfu Valley

Fan Guoqiang

There are puffer fish in Jingjiang, and I didn't know until I came to Jingjiang. It is said that puffer fish is only found in Jingjiang area, but not in Nanjing in the upper reaches and Shanghai in the lower reaches. This is really weird. I only heard that one side of the soil and water can support one side. This is the same big river. Why does the puffer fish love Jingjiang?

At first, we didn't know that the steaming soup pot served on the table was filled with puffer fish. After having a polite drink with the host, with the host's encouragement, we all stretched out our chopsticks to eat the meat in the soup pot. The host smiled mysteriously and asked us, "Do you know what's in this soup pot?" It suddenly occurred to me that the famous specialty of Huangshi Customs Mountain Hotel, the chubby fish, may also be river fish or something. The host introduced: "This is the famous puffer fish in Jingjiang." A word startled us, and the outstretched chopsticks could not help but shrink back. Can puffer fish be eaten casually? It is said that puffer fish is highly toxic. What should I do if I am poisoned after eating it? A lady surnamed Sun in the master's room explained to us cheerfully that puffer fish is only toxic in ovary, blood and liver, so it is enough to remove the puffer fish meat and wash it when slaughtering. Pay attention to the heat when stewing puffer fish. The puffer fish must be stewed. Just poke it with chopsticks. While introducing her, she took the lead in stretching chopsticks and ate with relish. I tried to pick up a puffer fish and send it to my mouth. It is really tender and incomparable, far from being comparable to ordinary fish. While eating and chatting, we know that this puffer fish is actually a special dish of Jingjiang, but whenever a distinguished guest comes, puffer fish is bound to be served at the banquet. This puffer fish costs at least several hundred yuan. Some people also buy puffer fish to cook at home, which shows Jingjiang people's love for puffer fish. The puffer fish meat is of great benefit to human body, and the puffer fish soup is the freshest instant noodle. What Ms. Sun said is even more amazing: if you feel a slight numbness in your tongue when eating, it may be a slight poisoning symptom. However, this is not important. Mild poisoning is not only harmless to the body, but also inhibits cancer cells. Of course, if the poisoning is too severe, there is no cure. People often die from eating puffer fish poisoning. However, although some people eat to death, others still eat to death. The fearless spirit of China people can also be seen from Jingjiang people eating puffer fish.

After I came back, I was so excited that I couldn't help looking through Ci Hai and Chinese Dictionary to find an entry about puffer fish. I learned that puffer fish still belongs to fish, also known as Jiang Pig. The body is cylindrical, the mouth is small, the back is dark brown, the abdomen is white, and the fins are often yellow. There are many kinds, some of which also enter fresh water, and are produced in coastal areas and some inland rivers in China. The meat is delicious, and only the liver, gonads and blood contain toxins. After processing, it can be eaten or made into frozen fish fillets and canned food. After pickling, it is commonly known as "black wolf owl". Ovary can be used as medicinal tetrodotoxin, and skin can be used as fish skin glue; The liver can extract puffer fish liver oil, and the testis can make protamine; Bones can be used to make fish meal. After reading this introduction, I began to know that the use of puffer fish is not only to satisfy the appetite of the population.

There are also many poems about puffer fish. In Song Dynasty, Mei wrote the poem "Puffer": "Spring buds are born, and poplar trees fly on the spring shore. At this time, puffer fish is not expensive. " Fan Chengda's Pastoral Miscellaneous Interest also said that "the bud is on the puffer fish". It is said that puffer fish meat should be cooked with Artemisia selengensis and asparagus. The most famous poem is Su Shi's poem: "Peach blossoms outside the bamboo are three Liang, and spring water warms the duck prophet. Artemisia sphaerocephala has short reed buds all over the ground, which is the time for puffer fish to go up. " According to friends in Jingjiang, Su Shi wrote that he personally witnessed the passion of puffer fish when he was in Jingjiang. Su Shi likes to combine the scenery with the seasons. In addition, he also has poems such as "Boiling Sunflowers and Burning Bamboo Shoots in Spring" and "Asparagus and Willow". However, Professor Huang Ruiyun, who is also in my small town, disagrees with Su Shi. He thinks that Su Shi's Lu Hao Lu Bao map is related to the desire of puffer fish, which seems to be very reluctant. The puffer fish swims in the river, and when the air pressure is low, it comes out to breathe, which can't appear in small scenes. If it is used as a symbol of the season, it is not typical, unlike those who can immediately think of winter scenery in orange and green.

Because the puffer fish is delicious, isn't it a pleasure to feel the poetry of puffer fish?

Jingjiang pin baozi stuffed with juicy pork

Jingjiang's dumplings have long been well-known at home and abroad, and the dumplings in the downtown "South Edge" hotel are especially the best in Jingjiang. A friend from Jingjiang said that every weekend, many people from surrounding cities and counties would come to the "South Edge" to queue up to buy soup packets. Jiaozi on the "southern edge" is not always affordable for anyone. The current price is 65,438+05 yuan per jiaozi. When the price is high, one jiaozi can be sold to 20 yuan, with only six in a cage, and the price is 120 RMB. It even sold for 70 Hong Kong dollars in Hong Kong. Ordinary diners really have to weigh their pockets. Is it worth spending so much money to eat this soup bag? Of course, some people may just try new things out of curiosity, but it is said that many people will never leave after tasting them, and have since become frequent visitors to the "South Edge".

This dumpling is the staple food of our breakfast. Before we arrived at the restaurant, the enthusiastic host prepared the tableware early. There is a tall tray with a small porcelain plate in front of everyone. The porcelain plate is branded with the words "South Edge". The trays and porcelain plates are all gold, and they look very small and exquisite. The balsamic vinegar has been poured into the porcelain plate, and there is a small dish of Chili sauce beside it. Jingjiang people don't like Chili. I think this is specially prepared by the careful host for us Hubei people who are not afraid of spicy food. At this time, the huge restaurant was packed, and diners from south to north were waiting for dumplings to be served. That kind of atmosphere makes us feel more novel and mysterious about Jingjiang soup packets.

Steaming dumplings are finally on the table. Steamed dumplings seem to be bigger than the steamer I have seen in the "Four Seasons Beauty" soup dumpling restaurant in Wuhan. Jiaozi, the "Four Seasons Beauty", is also famous all over the country, but Jingjiang people seem to be strangers to it. They only recognize Tianjin's "Goubuli" jiaozi and Shanghai's "Nanxiang" steamed buns, which are comparable to Jingjiang's jiaozi. This made me very depressed as an old Wuhan, but soon my eyes were attracted by this Jingjiang soup dumpling. But seeing this jiaozi is quite big, I guess there are always two or three big ones with the "beauty of the four seasons", which are thin and bulging in vain, with rickety soup inside, which makes people easily associate with the trembling fat on the fat man. The waitress skillfully picked up the soup packets one by one and put them in the porcelain plate in front of us, watching her lithe movements. My friend also tried to hold them in her hands, but when she lifted them, they broke. The original stocky soup bag suddenly looks like a discouraged ball, and the soup inside is instantly filled with porcelain plates. We all laughed. The host said that there are four words for eating soup packets, that is, gently lift, slowly move, open the window first, and then drink soup. So eating soup packets can also be called drinking soup packets. We learn to bite a small hole in the edge of the soup bag with our mouths and gently suck the soup inside. Chicken soup tastes delicious. The soup bag contains crab roe and crab skin, so it is also called "crab roe soup bag". After the soup drained, the dough was stuffed into the mouth together with the crab skin, and everyone's mouth immediately bulged. I feel that this Jingjiang soup dumpling is really delicious and well-deserved.

We talked over jiaozi. The host was not afraid at all. He generously introduced us to the knowledge of making them. If the raw materials are pure, the crab roe must come from the East China Sea, the skin must come from the hind legs of fresh pigs, and the chicken soup must come from Jingjiang native chicken in China. These three raw materials must be authentic, and any other "body doubles" will never taste like that. The key is to cook chicken soup. It is said that this is the exclusive secret recipe of "South Edge". Only technicians can cook soup in the workshop behind closed doors, and outsiders are not allowed to peep. In the crab season, the salary of technicians can rise to 10 thousand yuan. I'm beginning to think Jingjiang baozi stuffed with juicy pork should go to the mainland to open a chain store. After listening to these restrictions, I knew it was impossible.

During the dinner, the host told us two anecdotes about eating jiaozi. First, North Korean Prime Minister Kim Il Sung came to Jingjiang to eat jiaozi and wanted to eat another one. His health care doctor politely stopped him and said it was too oily, so he had to give up. First, not long ago, Jingjiang held a prank-like contest to eat dumplings. As a result, a wage earner in Sichuan ate more than 70 pieces and won the championship. This big man eats a soup bag called Tasting. Can this little man swallow more than 70 without losing his taste? We each ate three, right in the middle.

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