Who knows what snacks there are in the Northern Song Dynasty, the wine culture and tea culture of that era?

The wine industry in Song Dynasty was in a perfect and mature period in the history of China wine making. A large number of wine-making theoretical works came out, and distilled liquor appeared. The wine industry inherited and developed the management thought of the Tang Dynasty, which marked the maturity and great development of wine culture.

Mr. Shi Naian described the related wine industry, drinking customs, drinking etiquette, feasting fashion, drinking utensils, wine lists, wine brands and so on. Through drinking more than 600 times in the water margin. Through these descriptions of the environment and background, he showed the characteristics of wine culture in that era and showed readers a whole volume of rich wine culture in Song Dynasty.

First of all, it shows the prosperity of Yi liquor industry in Song Dynasty.

1, the wine industry is booming and hotels are everywhere. During the Tang and Song Dynasties, from downtown Beijing to secluded mountain villages, hotels were everywhere, and inaccessible places were no exception.

(1) There are many hotels where the state capital is located: the "Cui Yun Building" in Daming Mansion, with hundreds of pavilions upstairs and downstairs. Grid: that is, the elegant room. There are hundreds of restaurants with elegant rooms, and now they are also super-large hotels.

Twenty-ninth time, Song Wu Drunk and Beated Jiang Menshen on Mengzhou Road, wrote: "This music Lin Yuan is in the East Gate, with a field of fourteen miles. There are also twelve or three companies that sell wine. " Out of the city to the "Street" Happy Forest, there are many hotels along the way, which can be imagined in the city.

(2) There are hotels of different sizes in the county: if you write about yanggu county, you can find a small hotel called Yun Ge in Wu Dalang, a hotel at the corner of Zishi Street, a hotel in front of Uncle He's house and a Lion Building hotel under Lion Bridge.

(3) There are many hotels in villages and towns: when Lu went to Wutaishan market, there were about 500 to 700 people, and the hotels were dense. One hotel was "less than thirty or twenty steps away from the blacksmith's house"; "A few steps later" is another hotel; I got up from here and even went to three or five hotels, but I refused to sell wine to Lou. "Deep in the apricot blossom, at the end of the city, a family picked out a broom." When I went, it was a small hotel near the village.

(4) There is a hotel in a small residential area: "(Lin Chong) went again and met a bunch of people. Lin Chong stopped to look and saw a grass broom in the fence, in the open air. "

5. There is a hotel in Shan Ye: Song Wu "can't travel a mile, and he came to a place where there is no village and no country. He saw a wine flag early and picked it out in the forest." When I came to see the trees, it was a small hotel selling village mash. "

"Lin Chonggang walked through the snow and looked at the cold weather. It was getting late. Far away, he saw a pillow creek by the lake, a hotel, pressed by snow. "

"On a mound, I have already seen a high mountain in front, which is very steep. Monkey went down to Tugangzi, walked three or five miles, and saw a hotel with Qingxi in front and rocks behind it. "

There are also hotels in Shan Ye where tigers and wolves haunt: for example, not far from Jingyang Gangxia, "There is a hotel with a banner in front of it, which reads five words:' Three bowls can't pass the Gangxia'."

Once, there was a hotel not far from the road: it was mentioned in many places in the book. "I walked three or five hundred steps outside the east gate of Mengzhou, and I saw a restaurant next to Guandao." "Less than a mile or two, see another hotel on the way."

2. Hotels in Song Dynasty emphasized the cultural individuality of famous brands.

The naming of hotels and restaurants began in the Song Dynasty. Famous restaurants in Water Margin: Lion Building, Yuanyang Building, Xunyang River Building, Happy Forest Hotel, Pipa Pavilion, Fan Lou, Cui Yun Building, etc. There is a pole next to Xunyang Jiang Restaurant, and a green cloth wine fork is hung, which reads' Xunyang Jiang Zhengku'. On the other side, there is the word' Xunyang Building' inscribed by Su Dongpo. "

3, the hotel pays attention to advertising planning:

Hotels, large and small, advertise in different forms to attract customers.

Xunyang Building "There are two white cards on the vermilion watch post near the door, each with five big characters, which read:' There is an unparalleled wine in the world, and there is a famous building in the world'." This hotel asked Su Dongpo, a cultural celebrity at that time, to write a plaque to improve the cultural taste of the hotel.

Happy Forest Hotel: "There is a lookout pole in front of the eaves, and there is a wine table hanging on it, which reads four big characters:' The river is sunny and the moon is windy'. I turned around and saw two small flags selling gold in front of the door, each with five gold characters, which read:' Drunk and dry, the sun and the moon grow in the pot'. "

2. Described the service perfection of inch wine industry in Song Dynasty.

1. Provide comfortable and pleasant drinking places and facilities.

(1) In order to meet the needs of customers, there are restaurants and hotels of different grades, each with different drinking places, such as "Geer" (single room and private room), and secret banquets are guaranteed.

(2) Provide customers with conditions to express their feelings.

Surrounded by white walls, the hotel is equipped with pen and ink. Diners are free to write poems and inscriptions. In Xunyang Jianglou, Song Jiang "got up to watch the play and saw many poems written by ancestors on the white powder wall". When I was drunk, I ground the ink full and wrote on the white powder wall.

(3) There are different grades of alcohol.

The general wines written in the book are: wine pulp, vegetarian wine, meat wine, colored wine, social wine, social wine, village wine, Mao Chai wine, village wine, mud wine, meat wine and white wine; High-grade wines include "Blue Bridge Romantic Moon", "Jade Pot Spring", "Bottle Perfume", Old Wine, Blue and White Porcelain Wine, Royal Yellow Wine, Official Wine and Liquor.

(4), drinking facilities, luxury wine.

In the Song Dynasty, nobles and hotels had luxurious wine sets, with more gold and silver wine sets than the previous generation, and most of them were made of gold and silver, which was often counted as "two".

The banquet wine in the palace is luxurious: "The banquet is open, and the seven treasures are embedded in gold; The furnace is lined with Kirin, and the fragrant borneol is made. Amber bell in glass lamp room, agate cup with coral. Red ying plate, high-piled preserved Luan liver, purple jade plate, ... "

Li Shishi, a famous prostitute in Tokyo, entertained Song Jiang and others. Strange wine, sweet food, all spindles and a spring stage. Advise drinkers to give up drinking, and ask tits to sieve small gold cups. "

The wine containers mentioned in the book are: wine sea, silver wine sea, jars, silver pots, wine bottles and so on.

The drinking apparatus includes: inlaid gold flower clock, glass lamp, amber clock, agate cup, coral, gold lamp, table lamp, lamp, summer purple cup, gold cup, wine cup, wine cup, bell cup, coconut ladle, etc. The "persuasion glass" is a cup for toasting, which is larger than the general drinking cup; "Wine persuasion plate", a plate for toasting and persuading wine; "Watch the clock" county magistrate was overjoyed and called for wine. Watch it for ten hours in a row. "

Warm wine includes: "spoon", "ingot" and "note".

2. Provide convenient and thoughtful service for customers.

(1) The service staff is warm and thoughtful. "The bartender replied, went downstairs and took a bowl and put it in front of Li Kui jy. When screening wine, he put a plate ... The bartender poured the wine and screened it five or seven times. "

(2) Customers can bring their own food and only buy wine to eat. Li Kui jy bought a packet of jujube cakes in town. Tang Long followed Li Kui jy until he came to the hotel and saw Gongsun Sheng. ..... Li Kui jy took out the jujube cake and told the seller to sort it out. The three of them drank several glasses of wine together, ate jujube cake and returned the wine. "

(3) Customers can bring their own raw materials and the hotel can do it; Or the inn also sells wine, meat, grain and rice, and guests can help themselves. Yang Xiong and Shi Xiu, for example, moved to Liangshan Road and stayed in an inn at night. The bartender asked him if he wanted to eat, so he moved away and said, "We will take care of ourselves." Then cook for yourself.

The shopkeeper said humanely, "Blue and white porcelain wine and chicken belong to the Erlang family, and they only borrow my shop to sit and eat wine."

Song Jiang, Zhang Shun and others are at Pipa Pavilion. Zhang Shun took the fresh fish. "Ask the bartender to make a fish into spicy soup, steam a fish with wine, and ask the bartender to cut the silver carp."

(4) The hotel will keep the rest of the wine for customers. If you sit and eat wine, you leave your wine and food in the hotel and eat while walking. Song Wu killed Zhang Dujian in Mengzhou and went to Qingzhou. On the way, under a high mountain, he met a hotel with a clear stream in front of the door and rocks behind the house. Kong Ming and Kong Liang sent "Blue and White Porcelain Wine" and chicken, and asked the store to prepare it, and then they came to dinner.

3. Improve hotel functions and service contents.

1. Singing and dancing.

Song Jiang, Chai Jin, etc. "Playing in front of Fan Lou, they can hear the bells upstairs, the lights are staring, and tourists are like ants. Song Jiang and Chai Jin also went to Fan Lou, sat down in a pavilion, got some wine, vegetables and vegetables, and watched the lights and drank upstairs. "

Those who "grab seats" or "grab seats" will sing in restaurants in order to get rewards from customers.

(2), geisha accompany drink

Song Jiang, Chai Jin and Li Shishi sat drinking: "But Li Shishi said something handsome in the market, Chai Jin replied, and Yan Qing stood aside and made fun of it. ..... Li Shishi sang Su Dongpo's "Upper river of no return". ……"

"Li Shishi asked Yan Qing to play the flute, wait on the saints to drink, and soon dialed Ruan, and then asked Yan Qing to sing."

"After the ceremony, please enter the patios and have a big banquet in China, hand in hand with land and water. When the official enters the wine, the glory will pass the cup, and the song and dance will be full of songs and dances, ears, gorgeous women, each playing, Yuchi, Hu Xuanman dance. "

Thirdly, it describes the status of wine in festival folklore.

During the Qin and Han Dynasties, China people's holiday customs were basically stereotyped, and people would get together to eat and drink on major festivals such as New Year's Day (Spring Festival), Lantern Festival, Dragon Boat Festival, Mid-Autumn Festival and Double Ninth Festival. The drinking etiquette of the banquet, the variety, place, content and form of the wine are different and have been finalized.

1, a New Year's Day banquet with emphasis on form and etiquette. For example, in the fifth year of Xuanhe, he spent the New Year in Sung River Barracks and led Sung River to destroy Wang Qing, and the New Year's Day banquet when the troops returned to Beijing.

2. The Lantern Festival is mainly for entertainment, usually a family dinner. For example, Song Jiang's folk Lantern Festival in Huarong Village describes the Lantern Festival in Shi Jing, which makes people feel at home.

3. Celebrate Duanyang Festival together. They wrote "Liang Zhongshu Duanyang Family Banquet" and "Song Jiang Barracks Duanyang" respectively.

4. Mid-Autumn Festival Moon Appreciation Banquet. For example, the Mid-Autumn Festival in Jin Shi Manor and in the official Zhang Dujian Mansion.

5. Traditional Double Ninth Festival. The Double Ninth Festival in Liangshan Village is described in detail.

Fourthly, the traditional drinking customs are described in detail.

1, comity arranges banquet seats, and the seats are clear. It accurately and thoroughly describes the banquet level between superiors and subordinates, between guests and hosts, between friends, between family members and between monarch and minister.

2. Describe the customs and etiquette in China in great detail. For example, making alliances, paying homage, hosting banquets, seeing off, and even having a long lunch with a bowl of farewell wine before the prisoner is executed.

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First, the deepening of tea science.

Compared with tea science in Tang Dynasty, tea science in Song Dynasty made many achievements in depth. As the tea industry moved south, Jian 'an Beiyuan is the most important tribute tea, so many tea researchers tend to build tea in their research focus, especially the research on Beiyuan tribute tea, which has formed a strong era and regional color in academic topics. After these studies were handed down in the form of works, they provided detailed information for the study of tea history and tea culture in Song Dynasty.

Among the tea works in the Song Dynasty, the famous ones are brew tea Lulve with leaves, Cai Xiang's Tea Record, Song Zian's Tea Trial in the East and West, Shen Kuo's Modern Tea Law, Evonne's Daguan Tea Theory and so on.

Among the authors of tea science in Song Dynasty, there are the heads of a country, including court ministers, writers and Cai Xiang in Song Dynasty, famous natural scientist Shen Kuo, even a rural Confucian scholar and scholar, and even a hermit "Old Shen An" who still doesn't know his real name. Judging from the identity of these authors, the talents and research level of tea science in Song Dynasty are very rich. The research contents include the comparison of tea producing areas, tea making techniques, tea types, the relationship between raw materials and finished tea, tea drinking utensils, tea fighting technology and appreciation, tea quality inspection and evaluation, and the name of Beiyuan tribute tea.

Tea science in Song Dynasty paid more attention to tea making, which made a new development in depth and system than that in Tang Dynasty.

Second, the imperial court and royal family strongly advocated

The development of tea culture in Song Dynasty was greatly influenced by the royal family. No matter its cultural characteristics or cultural forms, it is more or less aristocratic. At the same time, tea culture has been more fully developed in the elegant category. The strong advocacy of the imperial court is mainly manifested in the following aspects: First, the feudal ritual system strives for perfection in tribute tea, which leads to the diversification of tea drinking methods. After Cai Xiang was appointed as Fujian's transshipment ambassador in Song Dynasty, tribute tea was further developed in form and quality through seiko reform, and was called "Xiaolongtuan cake tea". Ouyang Xiu called this kind of tea "its value is two taels of gold, gold is available, and tea is not available". Song Renzong recommended this little dragon group and treasured it. Even the prime minister's closest ministers are not given casually. It's just that when he gives gifts to heaven and earth in the southern suburbs every year, four ministers of the Privy Council are lucky enough to be assigned to the same group, and these ministers often refuse to drink them themselves, which are specially used to honor their parents or give them to friends. This kind of tea is called "embroidered tea", which is cut into dragons, phoenixes and flowers with gold foil, pasted on it and given to ministers.

Third, the prosperity of various tea drinking activities.

Song Dynasty was the most active period of drinking tea in history. There are "embroidered tea" and "fighting tea" derived from tribute tea; As a scholar, there is "tea sharing" to entertain yourself; As a folk teahouse, the way of drinking tea in restaurants is more colorful.

The most typical folk tea drinking in Song Dynasty was Lin 'an (now Hangzhou) in Southern Song Dynasty. When Lin 'an, the capital of the Southern Song Dynasty, was established, due to the exchange and integration of tea culture between the North and the South, teahouse culture centered on it appeared. The present teahouse was called the teahouse in the Southern Song Dynasty. According to Wu's Meng Lu Liang (volume 16), Lin 'an (now Hangzhou) tea house is modeled after Bianjing tea house in style, and the tea house is decorated with celebrity calligraphy and painting, flower stands and flowers of four seasons. Throughout the year, "selling exotic teas and different soups, selling Qibao tea, prickly heat powder and onion tea in winter ..." In the evening, a mobile car shop was also launched to meet the needs of tourists. At that time, in Lin 'an city, tea was bought and sold all day. Even when it snows in the dead of winter, some people come to sell tea after midnight.

Tea shops in Hang Cheng are divided into many grades to suit different consumers. Teahouses and tea shops are generally used as places for drinking tea. Among the customers, "there are many well-off children, and people from all departments get together to learn musical instruments, teach music and earn money". At that time, it was called "listing". Some tea shops "don't take tea and soup as their business, but use it as an excuse to find more gold ears to drink tea." It is called "human tea shop", and some "specialize in five benefits, and some banks lend workers and sell people to support the elderly", which is called "market buying". There are also some tea shops, which are special places for literati to make friends and date, such as "Qiuqiu Tea House" and "Jiangping Tea House". There is also a tea house called "Flower Tea House", which specializes in placing prostitutes upstairs to lure customers. These teahouses are called teahouses, but they are actually pornographic places.

The art of "embroidered tea" is a secret game in the court. According to the detailed record of Gan Chun Wind in the Southern Song Dynasty, in the first half of mid-spring, Beiyuan presented the first class of tea, which was listed in the palace. This kind of tea is beautifully packaged, with 100 praises, all made of water buds on the tip of sparrow's tongue. It is said that one person can brew several lamps. Probably because it is too precious, it is generally reluctant to drink, so there is an art of playing tea only for viewing. According to careful records, this method of embroidering tea is: "When the Qing Dynasty was closed, it was resplendent, colorful and fruity, named embroidered tea, but pleasing to the eye. There are also people who specialize in their jobs, and outsiders are rare. "

Another art of playing with tea, called "Spring in the Shadow", is to look at it first and then taste it. The game of "Leaking Shadow Spring" appeared in the Five Dynasties or the end of the Tang Dynasty, and by the Song Dynasty, it had become a more fashionable way of drinking tea. In the Song Dynasty, Gu Tao recorded this practice in detail in Qing Louis: "The shadow-leaking spring method, with carved paper to stick a lamp, no paper to make tea, fake flower." Don't take plum as the leaf, but take pine nuts, duck feet and other precious things as the core, and boil the soup and stir it. "Embroidering tea" and "Leaking shadow spring" are plastic arts based on dry tea, while "fighting tea" and "separating tea" are a kind of tea-making art. ..

"Fighting tea" is a mutual comparison method of tea quality, which is very utilitarian. It was first used in the selection and delivery of tribute tea and the competition of market price grades. The word "Dou" has summed up the intensity of this activity, so "Dou Tea" is also called "Dou Tea".

If Dou Cha has a strong utilitarian color, then Fencha has an elegant literati flavor. "Divide tea" is also known as "tea hundred plays" and "soup plays". People who are good at matching tea can use the water veins in the tea bowl to create many paintings and calligraphy that are good at changing. From these bowls, audiences and creators can enjoy many wonderful things.