Guangdong braised pigeon brine recipe

In September 2013, Chef Zhong Xian District, the executive chef of Shanghai Baoyan No. 1 Hotel, once said: "I would like to ask you to help me find out about a dish, that is Shanghai Tang Gongshan's signature milk Pigeon. I know that many diners go there for the squab. If they catch the dining rush, they will never leave after waiting for an hour or two for the squab! Success, so this time I ask you to help me get first-hand information." After receiving the task, we found Tang Gongshan chef Deng Weijun to ask for the essence of the signature squab. Today, Xiaowei will provide you with information again. Here are the tips for making this magic weapon that sells 800 pieces a day.

Signature squab

The store’s magic weapon sells 800 pieces a day

Regarding the rumors about the signature squab, Master Deng said: “This squab is indeed our The restaurant’s signature dish, diners are waiting for this dish every day. Some customers even order by the head, so that each person can enjoy the squab for only 29.8 yuan. If you have the restaurant’s VIP card. , you can enjoy it at a cost of only 18 yuan, which is truly a 'signature product at a street price'. At the peak of sales, 800 were sold in one day!"

According to Master Deng! , the method of making this signature squab is very particular, and three points are particularly crucial: first, the base soup, spice water and vegetable oil used to prepare the brine are all boiled separately in advance, and finally blended together. Secondly, instead of using spice packets when preparing the brine, use spiced water. The cooked brine will be refreshing and residue-free, but the taste will not be inferior. It should be noted that the cooking time of spice water must be long enough, about 7 hours, so that the fragrance of spices can be fully integrated into the water. Generally, a batch of spices can be boiled into spice water three times, 25 pounds each time. Third, for every batch of pigeons brine, vegetable oil, squab medicine powder and other ingredients must be added to the brine to ensure that they are sufficiently tasty.

Adjust the brine

1. Make the base soup:

20 kilograms of drum bones, 15 kilograms each of old chicken, chicken rack, and chicken feet, pig skin, and pig Put 10 kilograms of each leg meat into a soup bucket, pour in 110 kilograms of water, bring to a boil over high heat and skim off the scum, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 hours, turn off the heat and remove the residue to make about 60 kilograms of soup base. Note: When making the soup, chicken feet are used instead of pig's feet because the soup should highlight not the consistency of the gelatin but the fresh flavor of the chicken.

2. Boil spice water:

1 catty each of angelica slices, bay leaves, yellow branches, tangerine peel, cloves, pepper, Chuanxiong, fennel, grass fruit, and dried lemongrass, Mix 4 pairs of geckos and 5 monk fruit into a stainless steel bucket, pour 60 kilograms of water, boil over high heat and then simmer over low heat for 7 hours to make spice water, about 25 kilograms.

Gecko

(The giant gecko, commonly known as the gecko, is a type of small and medium-sized lizard.)

3. Boil vegetable oil:

Mixed oil (750g each of soybean oil and peanut oil, 500g butter) is heated to 50% heat, add 750g of dried shallots, garlic, ginger slices, coriander stems and onions, fry over low heat to dry out the water, and remove. All vegetable ingredients, reserve oil for later use.

4. Prepare seasonings:

4 bottles of bean curd (remove the fermented bean curd juice and leave the fermented bean curd chunks) diluted with 2 bottles of Huadiao wine and beat well; 1500 grams each of rock sugar and MSG. Prepare 1000 grams each of Erguotou liquor and fish sauce, and 500 grams each of chicken powder and rose wine.

5. Boil brine:

Bring 50 pounds of base soup to a boil, pour in 15 pounds of spice water, simmer for 3 hours until the aroma is blended, pour in vegetable oil and all seasonings Ingredients, stir and simmer for 1 hour.

Mixed brine

Brine pigeon

1. With squab powder:

Angelica powder, cinnamon powder, cumin powder , Chuanxiong powder, maltol, 50 grams each of five-spice powder and sand ginger powder, 100 grams each of bay leaf powder and star anise powder, mix well and set aside.

2. The first batch of squabs:

35 squabs (selected pigeons from Guangshui area in Hubei Province, the growth period is about 18 days, each weighing about 8 taels) , well-proportioned body shape, fresh and tender meat), slaughter and clean them, scald them with boiling water first, and then quickly put them into cold water. Alternating hot and cold water will help to tighten the pigeon skin and make it more crispy; add 100 grams of squab medicine powder to the brine and bring to a boil , put in the slaughtered and cleaned squabs, braise them over low heat for about 12 minutes, take them out and let them cool naturally.

3. Supplementary materials:

After each batch of pigeons (35 pigeons) is braising, the foam must be knocked off, and then 2 kg of base soup, 1 kg of vegetable oil, 100 grams of squab medicated powder, 500 grams each of rock sugar and MSG, 2 bottles of fermented bean curd cubes (remove the juice and leave the fermented bean curd cubes, dilute with 2 bottles of Huadiao wine), 1 bottle of fish sauce, boil it again and then braise a batch of pigeons.

Distribution process:

1. Dry the marinated squab, drain the crispy skin water evenly, and hang for 15 minutes to air dry.

2. Heat the oil until it is 60% hot, fry the squab on low heat for 3 minutes until the color is red and the skin is crispy, remove and control the oil and serve.

Preparation of crispy water: 1.5 kilograms of white vinegar, 210 grams of red Zhejiang vinegar, 80 grams of maltose, 15 grams of white wine, and 5 grams of food powder. Place in a pot and simmer over low heat until the maltose melts, stir well and serve.

Note:

1. Maltose contains reducing sugar components, which will cause a caramelization reaction during frying, causing the color of the squab to change from golden to light red, then to deep red, and become radiant. Bring out the aroma of caramel. If the concentration of maltose is too high, that is, there is too much reducing sugar, too much caramel will be produced during frying, causing the pigeon to turn black and have a burnt and bitter taste; if the content of reducing sugar is low and the caramelization reaction is insufficient, it will be difficult to obtain The skin is crispy and red.

2. Add a little food powder when adjusting the crispy water. It is a loosening agent and has swelling properties, which can make the pigeon skin better absorb the crispy water and make it crispy.

The ingredients are too strong and the formula is very confusing

Li Jianhui:

I have four questions:

1. The clove smell is very strong. 1 pound of cloves, bay leaves and other spices are boiled into 60 pounds of water to make 25 pounds of spice water. It will taste like soapy water and very pungent. Can it be used?

2. Since there is already spice water in the brine to enhance the flavor, why do we need to add squab powder again?

3. When adjusting the brine, no salt was added, but a large amount of MSG and chicken essence were added. Will it not be salty enough? Moreover, excessive use of MSG and chicken essence is unhealthy.

4. Remove the squab from the stewed pigeon after 12 minutes and no longer soak it in the original soup. Will it not taste enough?

Author's reply:

First of all, we do use a lot of spices to boil the spice water. The taste is very rich and almost pungent, but we do not add it all to the end. In the soup, add an appropriate amount, and increase or decrease according to the taste of the brine during operation. Secondly, spice water can enhance the flavor of the brine, but it is not enough to fully absorb the flavor of the pigeons. Therefore, medicinal powder must be added to the brine to supplement the flavor. Third, there is indeed no salt added to this brine. Instead, chicken essence, monosodium glutamate, fermented bean curd, and fish sauce are used to create a salty taste. After braising a batch of pigeons, fish sauce and MSG must be added to the brine to ensure that they are Salinity. Fourth, Master Li also said that this brine contains both spice water and spice powder, as well as a large amount of fermented bean curd, fish sauce, etc. It is salty enough, and the pigeons are small, so 12 minutes of marinating is enough If you continue to soak it, the pigeon skin will not be crispy enough, and the meat will easily become dead and tender.

I have never seen this kind of brine in the industry for more than 20 years

Zhang Tiejun:

When I first saw the recipe, I had the same question as Master Li Jianhui: various spices Each item costs 1 catty, and the ingredients are too heavy. I have never seen the brine prepared like this in my more than 20 years of cooking. Later, a Cantonese chef in the kitchen told me that some chain stores in Guangdong that make squab operate this way. Is there really a secret to this recipe? I decided to give it a try before talking about it.

It is possible to try making brine by yourself

I boiled the base soup, spice water and vegetable oil strictly according to the proportions in the formula, and then adjusted the flavor. The cooked brine has a slightly strong aroma and no medicinal smell. , it doesn’t feel astringent after tasting it, but the disadvantage is that it lacks saltiness. Next, I put two squabs in a low heat and stewed them for 12 minutes. I took them out and tasted them. The taste was indeed a bit bland, but the Cantonese chef thought the saltiness was just right. Then I added two more squabs, marinated them for 12 minutes, turned off the heat and soaked them for 2 hours. This time I felt the saltiness of the squabs was just right. From this, I came to the conclusion that the taste of southerners is slightly bland, and 12 minutes is just right to marinate squab. If it is sold in the north, the pigeons should be marinated for at least 2 hours.

Zhang Tiejun's trial production of crispy squab

Accidental rescue of "crispy chicken"

The squab is braised and then fried in water with crispy skin. The color is maroon, Shiny, with crispy skin and tender, juicy meat, it works well.

Reminding me that the crispy chicken skin that our hotel is launching is more golden than bright red, so I used this brine to adjust it, put in the chicken (1.2 catties/piece) and brine it for about 20 minutes, then soaked it for 2 hours, and brushed it evenly. The crispy skin is watered, dried and then fried. Sure enough, the skin color became much redder and brighter.

Original crispy chicken

Improved crispy chicken

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