Jingbian, the last song of the desert dominates the city, it is as quiet as a song and the Great Wall shines at sunset, traveling to northern Shaanxi 3

(Undertaken by: Visiting the Imperial Mausoleum at Famen Temple in the Rain, Celebrating China’s Long History in the Prosperous Age, Traveling to Northern Shaanxi 2)

We are in Pingliang City, at the junction of Qinlong and Qinlong in the middle of the Loess Plateau. After staying in Sichuan for one night and smelling a little bit of the Gansu border, I left this hub of the ancient Silk Road and the hinterland of Chinese civilization with great reluctance and headed straight for Jingbian in northern Shaanxi.

The whole journey was more than 500 kilometers, heading north in the gloomy weather, driving for more than 6 hours, and arrived in Jingbian in the evening. We have long known from historical data that during the war, when our party moved to northern Shaanxi, important leaders such as Mao Zedong and Zhou Enlai lived and fought in Jingbian for more than two months. The famous "Xiaohe Conference" was held here, which kicked off the liberation of the country. The war shifted from strategic defense to strategic counter-offensive.

Check into Wave Valley International Hotel. This county, where ancestors have thrived as early as the Paleolithic Age, is still presented to us in such a simple and concise manner.

Early the next morning, we hurried to Tongwan City, the capital of Great Xia, established by Helianbobo, a descendant of the Southern Huns, as early as the early fifth century in China.

During this trip, due to the heavy rain season in August, the weather was either rainy or overcast. Tour guide Li Shaopeng enthusiastically explained to us the past and present life of Tongwancheng.

The Xiongnu, a nomadic people on the ancient Mongolian plateau, were quite famous in history, especially frightening the people of the northwest. They are nomadic people who like to use horses to fight and form alliances. They have repeatedly and long-term interference and threat to the people's livelihood and development in the Western Regions and North China in Chinese history.

To this end, the Han Empire invested a lot of financial, material and military resources. Wei Qing and Huo Qubing were both heroes who made great achievements in annihilating the Xiongnu. The Xiongnu who traveled here and there did not have the habit of writing or building cities. This is the only relic of the Xiongnu in the world. Tongwan City is located on the edge of the Mu Us Desert and among the quicksands on the north bank of the Wuding River. It is said that when Helianbobo, the leader of Tiefu during the Five Hus and Sixteen Kingdoms period, built this city, it was a land of fertile water and grass.

However, with uncontrolled land reclamation and wars, the local ecology has been gradually destroyed. After thousands of years of evolution, coupled with climate change, the Mu Us area has gradually turned into a vast desert. After the founding of the People's Republic of China, the government launched an unremitting campaign to control desertification. Generations of Yulin people devoted their lives to finally complete the transformation from "sands advancing and people retreating" to "people advancing and sand retreating". Looking around, green plants gradually cover the yellow sand. Only this white city stands out.

As early as in the long history of history, due to long-term wars, natural disasters, reduction of territory and population, the situation of the Xiongnu became increasingly difficult, internal disputes intensified, and the Xiongnu gradually integrated into various ethnic groups. .

Thinking of the long journey of heaven and earth, the ruins are left alone.

The ancient city is silent and the sea of ??clouds is like light.

The white walls of the ruins, the majestic horse faces, and the towering turret ruins clearly outline the outline and scale of this capital city of Daxia, which was named with the meaning of "unifying the world and ruling over all nations".

As we walked there, we felt as if we could hear the cries of the war between Han and Hungary.

Generations of forestry people have built indestructible green corridors in the Mu Us Desert with their blood, sweat and even their lives. The desert turned into an oasis, which can be said to be a change of destiny. Yulin people used their faith to write that man can conquer nature.

The green plants are as tall and unyielding as the people of Yulin. The tour guide Li Shaopeng named this tree: Lonely Watcher. Therefore, due to the special geographical location and the humanistic sentiment of the name, the name spread... Li Shaopeng was quite proud. In fact, the lonely watcher will no longer be lonely in the future.

There are no traces of camels in the desert, but the willows are new. Human beings have broken through the restricted area of ????life, and the tenacious Shaliu has played a major role in this.

What catches the eye in Mu Us today is not the long sand dunes, but the sand willows swaying in the wind on the undulating sand dunes.

The people in Jingbian lived a happy life, and the ancient cave dwellings were left empty and lonely at night.

We wandered among the rows of remaining cave dwellings behind Tongwan City, vaguely recalling the suffering of the people of northern Shaanxi.

Tour guide Li Shaopeng said: In the vast Mu Us, it is now difficult to see the 100-acre Mingsha Desert. The Mu Us Desert will gradually retreat into people's memories.

We collect the memories of history, and appreciate the existence of history and the reality of reality in the profound humanistic implications. Human beings will always have the psychological need to return to history and nature. What's more, cave dwellings, especially these ancient cave dwellings, are one of the cultural landscapes of northern Shaanxi and one of the true memories of northern Shaanxi people.

It was near evening, the sky was very blue, and the clouds were rolling in... We were in the wilderness of Jingbian, a group of two cars, looking for the legendary ruins of the Ming Great Wall. The navigation made us dizzy.

When we met a group of sheep, they looked at us in surprise.

Not far away, there were two local fellows... We stepped forward to ask for directions... The old man's authentic northern Shaanxi dialect made us confused.

When we met at the base of PetroChina Chuanqing Drilling Company, the workers pointed the direction to us uncertainly.

Then, we passed a field of sunflowers, which made us feel happy...

In people's hearts, the flower language of sunflowers is faith, brilliance, pride, loyalty, and love. The meaning of sunflowers is It is silent love. The legendary story of Sunflower is about pursuing love bravely and persistently.

It is the formal beauty of sunflowers and the rich connotations given to them by humans... that make people always be ecstatic when they see them, and they only want to dance with them.

Finally, we were able to find it without any effort, and we were able to get close to the Great Wall at sunset.

I walked through the dense red willow bushes with some fearlessness, and I wanted to work hard to get closer to that section of loess beam. At this time, the first thing that caught my eye was this line of majestic words: Love my China, protect my Great Wall. So peaceful in the sunshine.

I brushed through the grass and ran straight forward... The sun was a little dazzling, but the mottled fonts were exceptionally clear and powerful, and the small flowers were swaying in the evening breeze...

The ruins of the ancient Great Wall It seems that there are too many historical vicissitudes for us. Chinese history cannot avoid the story about the Great Wall.

According to records: The ruins of the Great Wall of the Ming Dynasty start from Jiayuguan City in the west, pass through Jiuquan, Gaotai, Linze, Zhangye, Shandan, Yongchang, Minqin, Wuwei, Gulang, Jingtai and other counties, and pass by the Five Buddha Temple The Yellow River extends along the south bank of the Yellow River in Jingyuan County, with ups and downs, all the way to Shanhaiguan in the east.

I have been fortunate to witness its existence many times in various places during this long journey, to witness its victorious past, and to witness the unyielding Chinese nation. Stitching these precious fragments together is a complete historical novel.

Standing on Liangji and looking around, you can have a panoramic view of the mountains and river valleys, which shows that the military status at that time was very important. Jingbian is a well-known ancient battlefield. On a quiet and peaceful evening, we walked between history and reality with great passion.

As the sun sets in the west, the beacon is speechless. At this time, let me conclude with Fan Zhongyan's poem: The scenery is different when autumn comes under Saixia, but the geese in Hengyang leave without paying attention. Sounds are heard from all sides, thousands of miles away, long smoke sets, the sun sets, and the lonely city closes. A cup of turbid wine can lead to a home thousands of miles away, but Yan Ran has no plan to return home. The Qiang pipes are covered with frost, people can't sleep, and the general's hair is white and his husband is in tears.