The reason why I like surfing.

The reason why I like surfing is an extreme sport with a certain risk factor, and it is also a sport that many people like. As we all know, any sport has its advantages and disadvantages, and everyone's favorite sport is different. The following are the reasons why surfers like surfing.

The reason why I like surfing 1 Surfing is an exciting sport, but it is not easy to enjoy riding the wind and waves.

Because waves are the driving force, surfing has certain requirements for waves. The height of waves should be around 1 m, and the minimum should not be less than 30 cm.

At first, you should use a bigger surfboard, with more space and good buoyancy.

Masters will choose small and light boards, so that they can better enjoy the sense of speed.

You should lie prone or kneel on the surfboard first, and row to a place suitable for waves as a starting point.

When the waves push the surfboard to slide, you should try to keep the surfboard in front of the wave peak and stand up.

Legs naturally spread back and forth. Usually, the front legs grasp the balance, the rear legs grasp the direction, and the knees slightly bend and slide with the waves.

Surfing is an exciting sport. Even people who are familiar with water and skilled should always be careful, of course, if you are just a beginner.

You should paddle with your arms most of the time, but don't be discouraged, it will at least help you lose weight.

Speaking of surfing, I have to say kite surfing is very popular in recent years.

The highest feeling that kite surfing can bring you is to jump out of the water.

Jumping on the water like a flying fish, of course, this is not easy to do, and it should be easier to get started if you have a skiing foundation.

Surfing kites use inflatable skeletons, which is a great invention for extreme sports lovers.

Because this not only makes the kite easy to put away and save, but also can take off again after falling into the water! At the beginning.

The uncertainty and incredible power of kites will bring you great pressure. When you feel out of control, following the correct operation is undoubtedly an excellent way to challenge yourself.

Basic equipment for surfing

Foot rope traction belt

This is the only thing that can guarantee your life safety when you are engaged in surfing. When you fall into the water, you can use it to find your surfboard. Your surfboard will not be washed back to the shore by the waves or hit other people, so you can have a support at sea, which is generally longer than the surfboard. At present, the foot rope also needs to be designed according to different wave conditions. Generally, double bearings are better than single bearings and are less likely to be entangled.

Wax block

Waxing the surfboard can increase the friction between the surfboard and the human body, so that you can stand more stably on the surfboard and not slip! According to the annual temperature change in Taiwan Province Province, different kinds of wax are divided into base wax, cold water, warm water and tropical water.

Diving suit/rash protection suit

Cold suit diving suit

Most of them are made of a synthetic rubber (neoprene). If you want to surf when the weather is cold and the waves are good in Taiwan Province Province, you need a winter coat. Different materials, different thicknesses (3mm-5mm) and different lengths have different cold resistance. Short-sleeved ones are lighter, called dwarfs or spring clothes.

Wear clothes and prevent rash.

Even if the water temperature is not cold, surfers are likely to wear anti-wear coats, otherwise it is not very comfortable to rub on the surfboard for a long time. Other benefits of anti-wearing clothes: waterproof, warm and sun protection. A well-fitting anti-wear suit is definitely worth investing.

Anti-skid pad tracking

As mentioned before, if you don't want to wax the whole surfboard, you can paste this thing. Generally, a non-slip pad is attached to the end of the board to better control the board to do fancy movements.

Surfboard backpack

Surfboard damage is mostly in the process of handling, and the surfboard bag is to save where you accidentally hit it. There are generally two kinds of board bags, one-piece or two-piece daily bags and up to six-piece travel bags. The protection of travel is relatively thick, preventing airport porters from trampling on our precious wooden boards casually.

Nose protector

The most easily damaged parts of a surfboard are the board head and the board tail. The nose is a rubber block, which can protect your board head and protect others from being directly injured by your board.

Some surfing is controlled by sails, so a rudder is needed.

Rudder fin

Surfboard must use rudder, which is divided into single, three and five pieces. Usually, the long board uses a single large single fin, and other boards use a three-piece three-fin system. In the past two years, there have also been five pieces. Now the patented fin control system (FCS) is mostly used for the rudder, which is convenient for replacement and travel. However, the early Glass-on is also very popular with surfers, and its strength in big waves is better than FCS.

Matters needing attention in surfing

1. If you see jellyfish appearing or being bitten by them while surfing in the sea, please go ashore and have a rest.

2. When surfing in the open sea, the surfer closest to the first surfing area, if there is a crazy dog wave covering the whole row above the surfer, the surfer should quickly throw back the surfboard and quickly dive and hide.

3. When surfing in big waves, the surfer in front should keep a safe distance of three surfboards from the surfer next to, in the middle of or behind, so as to avoid the safety rope being entangled with everyone's surfboards when the crazy dog waves are submerged.

Surfers must abide by the rules of surfing take-off. One person and one wave, whoever is closest to the starting point of the wave wall will get up first. At this time, the participating surfers quickly braked or pulled the board to stop surfing.

5. Beginners should strengthen hand stroke training, physical training, foot training, forward tumbling in water and breath holding training.

6. To surf well, you must have diving skills, high morale and strong physical strength and muscles. Usually, please watch more surfing videos and magazines, surf with surfers, watch more, surf the Internet and exchange experiences with others to ensure that you can become a surfer as soon as possible.

7. When surfing, if you encounter an ocean current pulled out of the sea, just follow the direction of the ocean current and catch the waves. Never throw away the safety rope and swim back with the swimmer. Please lie on the surfboard and wait for help.

8. Pay attention to where to turn when carrying a surfboard. Put it gently on the ground. When the wind is strong, the surfboard is covered with sand when it is on the beach to avoid being blown away by the wind.

9. When you walk out of the beach with a surfboard, the angle of holding the surfboard in your hand should be straight. Never put the surfboard in front of your body to prevent the waves from hitting the surfboard and your body.

10. When the surfboard rushes back to the shore from the open sea and the water depth is about 30cm, please disembark immediately to avoid the surfboard directly hitting the stone.

1 1. When the surfboard collides with the waves, never pull the safety rope and surfboard by hand to avoid holding hands.

12. When surfing, please keep everyone at sea at the length of two surfboards.

13. Junior surfers, please pay attention to check the equipment, wax blocks, safety ropes and life jackets before launching, and warm up for 20 minutes before surfing in the sea.

14, the starting rule of surfing is to be closest to the wave collapse point. His action is to stand up first, and the surfer next to him should stop surfing. If you rush down regardless of the willy-nilly, in case of an accident, the surfer will bear all the consequences and liability for compensation.

15, the best wave shape for surfing is the wave that collapses in the middle and pushes towards the slopes on both sides. The most dangerous and worst waves are a row of waves that collapse in an instant. Please go ashore and have a rest at this time.

Reason 2: Are all young people who like surfing and skiing faking it? Actually, it's similar to the fashion circle.

265438+In the 1920s, surfing and skiing, two sports deeply loved by outdoor sports lovers, finally became popular all over the country and began to become popular among young people.

Judging from the current situation, surfing and skiing are both cool sports for them. But it must be admitted that they do these actions not based on personal taste, but in pursuit of novelty, individuality and superiority, just like those people in the fashion circle who know nothing but follow the trend, just to show their superiority.

People who really like this sport will devote themselves to it for a long time and enjoy it. After all, it is still too few. Different from China's wait-and-see attitude, as early as 70 years ago, surfing and skiing had become an enviable lifestyle of the middle class in the west with rapid economic growth after the war.

Then, why is the lifestyle they presented in the "old times" easy to arouse people's yearning now? I have to say Slim Aarons, a photographer who has recorded such a culture perfectly.

For him or people of that era, skiing and surfing are not only exciting extreme sports, but also an expression of pursuing a better life attitude, a media of fashion concept and sexy performance …

Some even commented that surfing and skiing became fashionable sports because of his photographs. In Slim Aaron's works, this is a very controversial evaluation, but it has aroused many people's curiosity about Slim Aaron. What kind of' icon' is he, so he will be praised?

Slim arens 19 16 was born in Manhattan. He was brought up by his grandparents on a farm in New Hampshire.

Like all farm boys who wanted to get in touch with the world in the early 1940s, he left his hometown at the age of 65,438+08 and was recruited to serve in the US Army. During this period, he took risks all over the world and worked in the United States Military Academy at West Point.

In the photography lab, he mainly works as an assistant and develops photos on the battlefield, which he thinks is "the lowest level of photography". He has the idea of "going to the next level" and is determined to become a real photographer.

Later, he studied with photographers. I wonder if this is Slim's gift. He quickly became famous at West Point Military Academy and was promoted to be a photographer, specializing in recording military exercises.

Frank capra was a famous director at that time. He was filming a war movie and came to West Point Military Academy to recruit new soldiers for his overseas newspaper Yankee. Slim's appearance at West Point Military Academy caught capra's attention. After his promotion, Slim quickly became a veteran war correspondent who recorded World War II.

He also won the Italian Purple Heart Medal (a medal of honor awarded by the US military to those who contributed to the war) for his outstanding performance in news reports.

In the blink of an eye, he gave the medal to his girlfriend who likes purple. He is very handsome. Although the medal is precious, he feels that its journey is not over yet.

After the war, he returned to the United States full of honors and successfully entered the photography career of the famous American magazine Life (the first issue was published in 1936 and closed in 2007). How big is "life" in America, which can be said to be a household name.

"Look at life, look at the world" is the purpose of Life magazine. Other magazines are still digging for news reports every day, but they ignore people who pursue freedom after the war and another need, that is, life guidance, while life keeps up with the trend. In addition to broadcasting news events, lifestyle sharing is its killer.

If "time" is the most ideal pilgrimage place in the eyes of media people at present, then "life" is the "time" of that era (1940s-1970s).

Life has inspired Time a lot. From the fact that Slim was employed by Life, we can see that his position in photography is not ordinary.

As a war correspondent, he saw too many cruel and separated scenes and was tired of the theme of death and destruction.

At that time, Slim needed to find a suitable theme and life work guide, so he aimed at the middle class, who were enjoying a rich life.

The middle class has long seen the lifestyle they want-wearing fashionable clothes that can reflect their personality, skiing and surfing.

It happened that Hawke, the assistant at that time, told Slim about the new sport of "Skiing joering", and Slim was very interested in such a group.

Later, Slim took an interesting photo in front of the famous Palace Hotel: the skier was pulled across the ice by a horse, and he felt the adrenaline surge like a child.

Therefore, Slim began to go deep into the snowfield and capture people who enjoyed the excitement brought by extreme sports. "I like to shoot those happy people."

Ski resorts have high requirements for people's physical fitness. It is an extreme sport and a modern sport that needs energy to think about how to challenge success. It is the embodiment of a way of life. Therefore, Slim is very excited about the handsome skiers in the ski resort, and the click of pressing the shutter is his way of expressing happiness.

The photographer, who also likes excitement, was attracted by the snow scene again and again. Of course, this is no accident. Slim also spent a lot of time practicing cross-country skiing, which eventually became one of his specialties and even became a member of the International Skiing History Association.

When he sought excitement, he unconsciously became an observer of fashion judges. Slim took a group of photos of middle-class skiing holidays around the world. It is his works that make more people appreciate the wonderful skiing.

Why do you like surfing? 3. Is surfing easy to learn?

You need to warm up for twenty minutes before surfing, and then you can go into the water. All these preparations are to ensure that when you surf, you won't be surprised because of insufficient preparation or your own conditions. What should I pay attention to when surfing? Surfers must obey the rules of surfing and taking off. One person and one wave, whoever is closest to the starting point of the wave wall will get up first. At this time, the participating surfers quickly braked or pulled the board to stop surfing.

Beginners should strengthen hand stroke training, physical training, foot training, and forward tumbling and breath-holding training in water; If you see jellyfish appearing or being bitten by them while surfing in the sea, please go ashore and have a rest. When surfing in the open sea, the surfer closest to the first wave area, if a crazy dog wave covers the whole row above the surfer, the surfer should quickly throw his surfboard back and dive to hide.

Surfing is an extreme sport driven by waves. Surfers lie prone or sit on surfboards in the sea with suitable waves. When the appropriate waves approach, the surfer adjusts the direction of the board head and paddles along the direction of the waves on the surfboard, giving the surfboard enough speed to keep the surfboard in front of the waves. When the waves push the surfboard to slide, the surfer stands up, his legs naturally stand back and forth, his knees slightly bend, and he is controlled by his body center of gravity, shoulders and hind legs.

Surfing is the top leisure sport in the world, and it is also the extreme sport with the highest safety factor. Sports injuries and other direct physical injuries are almost zero. Why can you say that?

Because there are strict standards for the manufacturing quality control of surfboards, this standard determines whether a surfboard can be called a surfboard; Other surfing accessories, foot ropes, tail fins, it is more reliable to choose products from regular manufacturers. If you can master surfing safety knowledge correctly, you will fall into the sea at most, and seawater is a fluid, which will buffer your body and will not cause harm to your body.