What is the wine in Li Qingzhao's poems?

Li huarui

Historical research in Song and Xia Dynasties

The Song Dynasty was a period of great political, economic and cultural development in ancient China. Especially from the mid-Tang Dynasty to the early Song Dynasty, the tax system and financial system with monopoly law as the core began to form. In order to increase fiscal revenue, the Song Dynasty implemented the policy of patent monopoly wine from beginning to end, encouraging more brewing and more sales, "for fear that people would not drink". Therefore, the brewing industry in Song Dynasty made unprecedented development on the basis of inheriting the previous generation.

First of all, the theory of koji-making and wine-making technology developed greatly in the Song Dynasty. According to the statistics of Lang Tingji of A Qing Dynasty who compiled "Sheng Yin Bian", the Song Dynasty was the dynasty in which China compiled the most alcoholic classics-the theory of koji-making and brewing technology. Among Su Shi's Dongpo Jiujing, Lin Hong's Xinfeng Jiujing, Zhu Jun's Beishan Jiujing, Bao Lixu's Beishan Jiujing, Dou Ge's Jiupu, Fan Chengda's Guihai Jiuzhi and many other wine classics, Beishan Jiujing is a representative work of song-making theory and wine-making technology. The new contributions of koji-making and wine-making technology since the Southern and Northern Dynasties were comprehensively and systematically summarized, including dry fermentation, artificial selection of strains in old koji, heating sterilization, use of yeast, and production and wide application of monascus.

According to modern classification, wine varieties can be divided into four categories: yellow wine, fruit wine, mixed wine and white wine. The first three kinds had been produced before the Song Dynasty, but it was not until the Song Dynasty that they achieved great development, especially the production of yellow rice wine entered its heyday in history. Yellow rice wine is a kind of brewing wine made from rice and other grains through cooking, saccharification, fermentation and filter pressing. Although the production of yellow rice wine has a long history, the name of yellow rice wine began to appear in Song Dynasty and Xixia literature. Compared with the technological process of modern yellow rice wine production, the thirteen processes and techniques of yellow rice wine production in Song Dynasty recorded in Beishan Jiujing are very similar. Please look at the chart:

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(1) Lv Zuqian "detailed said all previous dynasties system" volume 6.

Brewing technology in Song Dynasty: 1. Spread the pulp, 2. Taomi, 3. Fried, 4. Tommy is five years old. Steamed vinegar moose, 6. Koji, 7 years old. Fermented rice, 9. Steamed sweet moose, 10. Wine vessel, 65433.

Modern yellow rice wine production technology: raw materials → whitening, sieving → soaking → cooking → batching (using koji) → pre-fermentation → post-fermentation → filter pressing → clarification → sterilization → storage → blending → filtering → bottling → sterilization → finished product.

Through comparison, we can see that the production of yellow rice wine in China reached a fairly high level in the Song Dynasty more than 800 years ago. Yellow rice wine is a kind of brewed wine with grain as the main raw material, so the development of yellow rice wine production is closely related to the development of agricultural production. Before the middle Tang Dynasty, millet, millet and other crops were the main varieties of grain production. Therefore, millet and millet are also the main raw materials for wine making. From the Middle Tang Dynasty to the Song Dynasty, rice gradually became the main variety of grain production. Correspondingly, rice also became the most important wine-making raw material in Song Dynasty, especially glutinous rice. Wheat and japonica rice are mainly used in koji-making, as well as raw materials such as millet and millet, but they have lost their traditional advantages.

All kinds of low-alcohol drinks and wines made from various fruits and wild fruits, such as grapes, pears, oranges, lychees, hawthorn and bayberry, are called fruit wines. The varieties of fruit wine in Song Dynasty include wine, pear wine, litchi wine, pomegranate wine, coconut wine, betel nut wine, jujube wine, orange wine, sugarcane wine and honey wine. As far as its brewing method is concerned, most of these wines belong to fermented fruit wine. The yield of fruit wine in Song Dynasty was small and the technical level was low. Coconut wine, pear wine, pomegranate wine and olive wine, which are brewed by natural fermentation, are still in a relatively primitive and low-level state. However, the original flavor of wine, orange wine and litchi wine was destroyed by grain brewing, which is probably the main reason why fruit wine production failed to achieve great development in Song Dynasty.

Blended wine is based on fermented raw wine, distilled wine or high-quality alcohol, mixed with flowers and fruits, or aromatic substances or medicinal materials of animals and plants, or mixed with other substances with color, fragrance and taste, and prepared by different processes such as soaking and distillation. Hawthorn wine and mash wine mentioned by Pang in Song Dynasty is a mixed wine made by soaking process. "In Beijing, most of the wine in your home is brewed with vinegar, which has a unique fragrance. In recent years, hanging wine with moldy hawthorn flowers is not only rich and lovely. " According to the classification method of modern mixed liquor, the mixed liquor in Song Dynasty can be divided into two categories: aromatic plants, flower mixed liquor and nourishing medicinal liquor, with about 80 varieties.

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(1) pang Wenchang magazine (volume 3).

Song wine is so beautiful that it is called beauty. There are more than 280 kinds of famous wines in Song Dynasty recorded in Zhang Nengchen's Jiu Ji, Wu Nengchen's Old Stories in Wulin and Wu's Dream Record, from which we can see that the varieties of famous wines in Song Dynasty have greatly increased compared with the previous generation.

Liquor, also known as shochu, is a unique world distilled liquor in China, and its appearance is a revolutionary breakthrough in brewing technology. But when did China start to produce liquor? In the past, Li Shizhen's Compendium of Materia Medica has been used, that is, "shochu is not an ancient method, and its method was founded in the Yuan Dynasty". Since 1930s, some scientists engaged in chemical history have challenged Chen Shuo to trace the origin of liquor production. After more than half a century of discussion, several viewpoints have been formed, such as the Eastern Han Dynasty Theory, the Tang Dynasty Theory and the Southern Song Dynasty Theory. However, due to the lack of strong evidence, there is almost no conclusion. The author also conducted an in-depth investigation on this, and thought that there was indeed liquor production in the Song Dynasty, and there was a special article on it.

The Song Dynasty was the only feudal dynasty in the history of our country that practiced the liquor monopoly system from beginning to end. On the basis of inheriting the Tang Dynasty, the wine monopoly system tends to be meticulous and complete. There were three main forms of liquor selling in China in Song Dynasty, namely, official supervision of liquor service (liquor warehouse), licensed liquor merchants and buying and selling workshops. In some areas, liquor sales have also been implemented, such as Sichuan liquor sales and liquor-making in ten thousand households. This paper mainly introduces the official supervision of wine and the purchase of puff workshop.

Official supervision of wine affairs. In the Song Dynasty, the government set up institutions at the state and government levels to brew, sell and collect alcohol courses, which were called liquor service, and at the county level they were called liquor service. There was 186 1 liquor business in the middle and late Northern Song Dynasty. Ma Duanlin said that "everything in the city is brewed" (2). However, the distribution of wine service is not limited to large and medium-sized cities, even in very remote villages, such as today's local chronicles of Ningbo, "Baoqing Sizhiming" contains: "Lincun wine service, Taoyuan township, three miles to the county seat." "Xiaoxi wine suit, hook up, go to the county seat for forty miles." ③

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(1) See my works "On China's soju" and "Historical Research" No.5,1993; Re-discussion on the beginning of China's soju, Collection of Song History, Hebei University Press, 200 1 edition.

(2) Ma Duanlin "Literature General Examination" Volume 17.

(3) Luo Jun "Bao Qingsi Zhi Ming" Volume 12.

There are two kinds of supervisors in Song Dynasty. One is the administrative staff in charge of liquor monopoly to supervise the production process of liquor, and the other is the official in charge of liquor, who is responsible for collecting liquor tax. The main forms of officials selling wine in Song Dynasty were the same as those in Han and Tang Dynasties, and local officials set up their own restaurants and hotels to sell wine. Due to the relatively developed commodity economy, wholesale and retail commercial outlets have been formed around government hotels (buildings), that is, private hawkers or licensed wine merchants are allowed to collect and mix wine in wine warehouses and restaurants set up by the government to expand wine sales. At that time, these private hawkers or licensed liquor merchants were called "foot shops", "pat households" or "parking households".

In the early Southern Song Dynasty, due to the Anti-Jin War, the military expenditure increased sharply, so various wine depots in the name of supporting the army were established like mushrooms after rain. Their names are Japan's support for the army wine cellar, reward the army wine cellar, reward the army wine cellar, return to the easy wine cellar, and minister wine cellar. Wine cellars are generally directly subordinate to Zhili household department or government department. The direct management of wine depots by the army is a major feature of the wine monopoly system in the Southern Song Dynasty. For example, Yue Fei and Han Shizhong, famous anti-gold generals, run more than a dozen wine depots respectively. The wine warehouse is a wine-making and wholesale institution. Many pat shops and foot shops wholesale wine from here and sell it by retail. A wine cellar uses millions or even tens of millions of wine bottles a year, so there is a porcelain kiln near the wine cellar, which burns wine bottles for the wine cellar.

Generally speaking, the size of a restaurant depends on the output of wine. Compared with the military liquor depot in Dinghai County, qingyuan prefecture, which had only six rooms in the same period, the 70-room ministerial storehouse of Jiankang Prefecture was obviously much larger, but it was dwarfed by the Neifu liquor depot with 180 rooms in Jianlong period and the liquor service with 180 rooms in Huzhou in Jiatai period. Wine cellars in the Southern Song Dynasty are quite similar to modern wineries in form. A wine cellar generally has a warehouse area, a production area, a wine storage area, a dormitory area for officials, winemakers and winemakers and a special office area.

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(1) Luo Jun's "Bao Qing Si Zhi Ming" Volume 5 "Camp Tavern".

(2) The Manuscript of Song Yaoyao is different from the second book.

(3) "Jiatai Wu Xingzhi" Volume 8.

Buy a robot workshop. In Song Dynasty, due to the development of social production, Maipu existed widely in the economic field. Buying robots is also called buying robots. The meaning of the word "robot" was interpreted by predecessors as "fighting for Japanese robots" or "hand-to-hand combat for Japanese robots". According to Meng Yuan's Dream in Tokyo, Ciyuan is interpreted as gambling. It can be seen that "robot" has the meaning of competition, fighting and betting to win or lose, so according to this, it is nothing more than that buyers bid for each other before sellers, just like sumo wrestling. In fact, the nature of buying a robot workshop is the tax system, and the workshop here refers to the winery. The method is that tax contractors who have the ability to pledge assets sign contracts with the government. The contract is generally three years (then called the border). During the contract period, the tax contractor will obtain the right to brew and sell, and no one else may interfere. However, the tax contractor must pay the wine tax to the government on time according to the amount of alcohol stipulated in the contract. If you can't pay on time, you will be fined. If the contractor manages the workshop, loses money or goes bankrupt due to poor management, the mortgaged assets will be confiscated. Later, there was a new development in the way of buying and selling workshops, and a real seal submission method similar to the current bidding method appeared. According to this method, the buyer first marks the price of his contract in the sealed tender, and the government chooses the highest price among many tenders to sign the contract. During the Northern Song Dynasty, the patrons of restaurants were mainly rich people. In the Southern Song Dynasty, the army and the government also contracted to buy puff shops as buyers, which was a new economic phenomenon in the Song Dynasty.

In the Song Dynasty, in order to ensure the income of official liquor courses, the government strictly divided the forbidden areas of official liquor by way of legislation, that is, there are regulations and sales areas (ranging from dozens of miles to dozens of miles around) such as the location of the capital, the city where the provincial capital is located, and the location of rural wineries. They are not allowed to cross the line and surpass each other. At the same time, in the forbidden area, private households are generally not allowed to sell wine, forming a situation where there is no support but the government. This is a major feature of liquor monopoly in Song Dynasty. Of course, wine produced outside the government restricted area or not for sale can also be brewed in principle. There are three systems for the production of non-commodity wine in Song Dynasty: one is the self-use wine brewed by the government, such as French wine, imperial wine and minister wine. The second is the self-use wine brewed by Imperial Clan, Qili and Pin Guan. The third is the self-use wine brewed in rural areas.

Private liquor in Song Dynasty is a social problem, and the prohibition of private liquor usually includes two contents. First, it is forbidden to brew and sell without the permission of the government or legislation. The second is to check and crack down on illegal alcohol activities that have already appeared. The legislation and inspection of bootlegging in Song Dynasty were very strict. Some officials, such as Wang Sizong, are famous in history for giving advice to save their lives. He said: "In order to save the bucket, Tongzhou had to save less than three liters, and the brewer who died after three stones was seriously injured. I'm afraid the ratio of all roads is so high. I hope that I will be convicted from now on. " (1) prolongs the life by the difference between multi-core and nine buckets, which shows its harshness. For the government's self-interest, the activities of arresting illicit Saccharomyces cerevisiae in Song Dynasty reached an alarming level. Wang Dayou, a native of the Southern Song Dynasty, said, "Nowadays, wine catchers and empty neighbors falsely accuse them of resisting arrest, and the lawsuit is insoluble. It is a riot of wine catching, which is worse than robbery. The murderer, the crime stops at one, and all ages are self-sufficient. This time, when he caught alcohol, he was arrested by his family.

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(1) The History of Song Dynasty (Volume 287) The Biography of Wang Sizong.

Suffering from the law is a drunken crime, which is more important than killing people. "(1) Although the law forbids, catching alcohol is like guarding against theft, but all this is for the" lonely and weak "people. Those bureaucrats collude with each other and use their power to lead to private brewing, which makes the people who are forbidden by law have a dead letter. Folk songs in Lin' an area during the period of suggestion: "If you want to get rich, you should sell wine and vinegar quickly." (2) it is a portrayal of this stubborn behavior. The situation of reselling non-commercial liquor for profit is similar to that of private liquor, and it is also repeatedly banned, which shows the corruption of officials in the Song Dynasty.

When talking about the urban changes in Song Dynasty, the late Japanese scholar Mr. Kato Fan said: "It was only in Song Dynasty that the store system collapsed, people opened doors in the street, and the market system collapsed more and more completely. Shops can be set up in places facing the street inside and outside the city, and amusement places called tiles have been set up. Restaurants on the second and third floors stand on the street. " It is true that the restaurants in the Song Dynasty are spectacular and exquisite. It is clearly described in Father Meng's Dream of Tokyo: "All the doors of Shi Jing Hotel are tied with buildings and happiness doors. It's just that when the store entered its door, it was already about a hundred steps in the main corridor. The two corridors in the north and south patios are small pavilions. At night, the lights are brightly lit and candles are lit. The photos were taken from top to bottom ... Alum Building was changed to Fengle Building. Xuanhe Room, three stories high, five stories opposite, each with flying bridge railings, light and shadow connected, beaded curtains embroidered, lights and candles illuminated ... Jiuqiaomen Market Hotel, opposite the building, embroidered with each other, covered the sky, and later Changqing Building under the east wall of Jingling Palace was particularly prosperous. " Here are only a few representative restaurants. In fact, there were 72 restaurants in Bianjing at that time, and their prosperity was self-evident.

In the Southern Song Dynasty, Lin 'an, the capital of China, was full of restaurants, and its decoration practices followed Tokyo's example. Although this has become a local security situation, it is extravagant. At that time, there were two kinds of restaurants in Hangzhou. One is the official wine warehouse under the supervision office of the household department, and each warehouse has a restaurant. One is a private restaurant Whether it is government-run or private-run, the luxury situation is roughly the same. In addition to restaurants, there is also a kind of "garden hotel", which imitates the garden buildings in the city or the suburbs outside the city, and provides cultural meetings for literati and so on. Restaurants and hotels not only pay attention to decoration, but also pay attention to the charm of "art" inside. They often hang paintings and calligraphy, or leave blanks on the walls for drinkers to make poems and paintings. According to Mi Fei's History of Painting, the paintings painted by artists such as Cheng Tan, Cui Bai, Feng Hou, Ma Ben and Zhang Zifang are all tacky, "they can defile teahouses and hotels, and they can be hung together with the cursive script of Zhou Yuezhongyi", which shows that it was quite fashionable to hang paintings and calligraphy in hotels at that time.

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(1) the building key attack set, volume eighty-eight, apply the bachelor of Govern to send Wang Gongxing a special gift.

(2) Zhang Zhifu can book.

(3) The Chinese translation of Kato Fan's Textual Research on Chinese Economic History, Commercial Press, 1959, p. 277.

(4) Meng Yuan's "Tokyo Dream China Record" Volume II "Restaurant".

In Song Dynasty, wine flags and wine curtains were hung in front of restaurants and hotels. There is a word "Wang" on the wine flag of the village hotel, which is also called the wine prince. Rong Zhai continued: "Today, the wine services in the counties of the capital and all the places where there are wines are exposed, and there are several pieces of blue and white cloth." It's the logo of the restaurant, which has a strong advertising color. Confucius' poem "Wine Curtain" says: "A hundred feet of wind often hangs outside the curtain. If you boast of good wine, talk to pedestrians. " ②

In the Song Dynasty, it was a great event to hold a banquet and cook welcome wine in various government-run and privately-run restaurants every year. Before the Mid-Autumn Festival in Tokyo in the Northern Song Dynasty, all the shops sold new wine, re-decorated the facade with colorful buildings, painted flowers and painted poles, drunk immortals, and people in the city competed for drinks. Until noon, there was no wine at home, which dragged down hope. " In the Southern Song Dynasty, the wine cellar in Hangzhou was even more lively, boiling in April and being clear in September. "On the morning of the invasion, all the supply stations were arranged and cleaned up, so they went to the state government teaching ground to wait. First, a piece of white cloth with a height of more than 30 feet reads,' Choose a famous master brewer from a warehouse and brew a wine with the highest color, which is the first in the class', which means that long bamboo poles are hung on the' cloth board' and three or five people help. Followed by several generations of drums and musicians, and then the number of wine given. Eight immortals Taoist, all kinds of social teams. " "In addition to the various arts of zaju, it is also the study of the fish father, with bamboo and horse hunting and the story of the Eight Immortals ... tall buildings pass by and embroidered curtains are like clouds, which is really a sea of people." .

In the Song Dynasty, in order to maximize the wine tax, the government used geisha to help manage it. "Today, women advocate selling wine: try" (5). He also ordered the maid to wrap her head with a flower towel to protect the restaurant, and to have a flower nest, a five-dish rack, a release cage and so on. "。 And each warehouse strives for new and good, and the prostitute will save the library. ⑥. At that time, there were dozens of official prostitutes in the official libraries under the jurisdiction of the supervision office of the Ministry of Finance, and dozens of private prostitutes in every place of the private library, all wearing makeup and clothes all the time, laughing and competing for beauty.

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(1) Hong Mai RongZhai pen volume 16 "wine spectrum" in the article.

(2) Wang Wei compiled The Collection of Three Holes in Qingjiang (Volume 22).

(3) Meng Yuan "Tokyo Hua Meng Record" Volume 8.

(4) Be careful of Volume II of Old Wulin Stories.

⑤ Elvis Presley's Wild Guest Series Volume 15.

⑥ Beware of the history of Wulin Volume II.

All landowners review "Wulin past" volume 6.

The prosperity of restaurants in Song Dynasty is inseparable from the fact that the government regards wine as an important tax source. Rich liquor income is one of the important material bases and pillars of the autocratic centralization in Song Dynasty. In the early years of the Northern Song Dynasty, alcohol was only 1.85 million, which was less than 10% of the total monetary income. In the second year, it increased to nearly 9 million alcoholic beverages, accounting for 33.3% of the total monetary income at that time, and then continued to grow steadily. During the reign of Ren Zongqing, it reached 1, 765438+ million, accounting for 38.9%, and then it decreased year by year. Ten years after Zongshen Xining, there were still 1, 365,438+million, accounting for 25.9%. In the Southern Song Dynasty, the number of alcoholic beverages reached more than 1000 million, accounting for about 20% of the total monetary income in the Southern Song Dynasty. Obviously, the rulers of Song Dynasty exploited producers and consumers to the maximum extent through monopoly or violence, and this huge wine profit, as an economic pillar to maintain its own existence and ruling order, satisfied the enjoyment and corruption of the ruling group and had a negative impact on social development that could not be underestimated. On the other hand, the huge income from alcohol classes is directly used to resist the military expenditure of Liao, Xia and Jin Dynasties. "Insufficient military expenditure, especially taking advantage of the world wine monopoly" (1) has a certain progressive effect on protecting people's lives and property from being ravaged by iron hoofs, which can not be ignored.

(Originally published in Knowledge of Literature and History, No.2, 2004)

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(1) Li Dao's "A Mirror for Continuing Education" (Volume 133), August of the first year of Li Qing.