Suzhou 1-day tour

Autumn Fairy Tale X: Let me tell you!

In my dream, the sweet-scented osmanthus fragrants Suzhou, and the autumn wind and autumn rain bring me the most lovesickness. It’s been nearly two months since I returned from Suzhou and Hangzhou, and I haven’t started writing to connect those itineraries together. Maybe I’m afraid of ruining that perfection, maybe it’s about those things. Every bit of the mountains, rivers and rivers have been printed along with the frames of photos and negatives into a dynamic picture in my life.

The alternation and flow of black and white and color, the disconnection and connection between ideal and reality, allowed me to complete a period of lovesickness from my previous life to this life. In that nightmare-like situation, I wish I could turn into a water lily in the rivers and lakes south of the Yangtze River, and go back and forth in her story year after year, instead of just passing by again...

Dreaming into the Yanshui Road in the South of the Yangtze River

——Who used a long pole to hold up the dream of the water town

The light boat cut through thousands of lovesickness

The blurred past life

p>

I am just the sleeping red lotus in your eyes

1

It has been a year since I set foot in the old city of Suzhou again. I still remember being in Suzhou last year. I only stayed for one day and left in a hurry. At that time, I said in my heart to this city that I suspected was my hometown in my previous life: "Wait for me to come back!" Now it is the opening season of the Wuxian Osmanthus Festival, and the city that greets me is still the same. It’s the fragrance overflowing in the air and the lively flowers on the branches, so I only regard this reunion as a kind of return.

I was touring Changmenwai with my friends. Many houses here have been demolished. I tried hard to search for the appearance in my memory, but it was a bit blurry.

Until the car turned to Liuyuan Road, and when I looked up and saw the camphor trees blocking the sky and sun on both sides of the road, the scene of dripping dew under the autumn rain in my memory reappeared in front of me. The driver said that these camphor trees It is a tree in Suzhou that is evergreen all year round. If you smell it carefully, you can clearly see that there is a faint fragrance flowing down from the branches and leaves, mixed with the fragrance of osmanthus floating out from nowhere, making it difficult not to get drunk.

After dinner, we went to the Lingering Garden first. This is known as the most famous Ming Dynasty building in Wuxia Garden. It covers an area of ??two hectares. It is divided into four scenic spots in the east, west and northwest, with a winding corridor of more than 700 meters long. , the whole garden has a rigorous structure, is exquisite and elegant, the buildings have double eaves and stacked buildings, and the cloisters of the courtyard are deep and changeable. You can enjoy the scenery of the four seasons without leaving home. It can be said that the scenery changes with each step, which is fascinating. The main peak of the courtyard, Guanyun Peak, is said to be a relic of the "Hua Shi Gang" of the Song Dynasty. It is 6 or 5 meters high, exquisite and clear, with a magnificent shape, no trace of artificial axe, and has the characteristics of thin, leaky, transparent and wrinkled. It is the best garden lake stone in the south of the Yangtze River. . The two peaks of Ruiyun and Xiuyun stand on the left and right, like holding the moon, which is a spectacle. For me, a northerner, the most enjoyable things are the pavilion of "Good weather, happy rain and quick snow", the pool of water lilies under Guanyun Peak, and the several carved flower carvings in the Nanmu Hall that blend the natural scenery into one screen. window.

Avoid the tourists like banners, look up and stand under the two-hundred-year-old magnolia tree, and imagine that in the blooming season, there are jade boat-like petals knocking down, floating one by one, and you can clearly understand He became a chess player in a green shirt.

Before the scholar woke up from his dream, the tricycle went around the slightly remote western suburbs of the city and stopped at the quiet Panmen Scenic Area. According to the tricycle master, Panmen was first built in the Spring and Autumn Period of the Wu State, rebuilt in the late Yuan Dynasty, and later rebuilt in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. It uses the Grand Canal as a moat and has two gates on land and water side by side. It is the only city gate in China with two gates on water and land side by side.

It was 4 pm and there were few people in the park. Due to limited time, we only walked half a circle around Ruiguang Tower, and then we and our friends looked around for the location of Pingtan Bookstore and Wumen Bridge. After crossing the small bridge, climbing the city tower, and climbing the stone steps, we almost walked around most of the garden, but the Wumen Bridge was nowhere to be seen. While wandering around the "Suzhou Bridge Photography Exhibition Area" in Wuxiang Temple, I suddenly heard the sound of tinkling strings coming from the end of the verandah and following the sound. Behind the high desk, a man and a woman were playing and singing "Maple Bridge" by Zhang Ji. "Night Mooring", this poem is originally full of the author's poetic touch, and the singing voice of Pingtan also has a beautiful and charming charm, so the male and female actors used up and down vibrato, up and down glide, breath, spray, high tone, and *** Waiting for processing, just four sentences have fully demonstrated the low-key, heavy, and whispering culture of Pingtan.

When we came out of Wuxiang Temple, it was getting late, and the afterglow of the setting sun shone on the towers with upturned eaves, and the city walls with green shade were lonely.

Walking along the crenel, I saw a white cat lurking on the roof opposite and suddenly disappeared from sight, like an elf from a Chinese fairy tale.

When we came out, we were catching up with the last boat on the water in the park. The grandma who was rocking the oar was dressed in folk clothes. She sang a melodious Jiangsu folk song while rocking the oar: "In the first month of the year, the apricot blossoms bloom, pick an apricot blossom and come on the boat..." I can't remember the lyrics today, so I just I remember that I counted the names of flowers for twelve months. If I hadn’t heard it with my own ears, no one would believe that such a beautiful song came from the mouth of a peasant woman in her fifties or sixties. At that time, people couldn’t help but regret that she didn’t bring it recorder.

When I returned to the city, the lights were already bright. I wandered around the Changmen Night Market and went to Lao Ma Rice Noodle House. It was still crowded with people. Looking out through the glass window, the lights were overflowing. There are several banners flying in the air among the large and small facade rooms. I suddenly remembered that Changmen is where Cao Xueqin started describing the Red Mansion, and my mood suddenly returned to the old Suzhou two hundred years ago...

Same It is located in Wujiang City, 20 kilometers away from Suzhou. The town is surrounded by lakes and the intersection of three rivers. 15 city rivers are criss-crossed and divided into seven islands. 49 ancient bridges from the Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties connect each other. Streets are formed by water. It is a river and a garden by water. It is known as the "Oriental Venice", "Ming and Qing Architectural Exhibition Hall" and "Natural Photography City".

There are two ways to go from Suzhou to Tongli: highway and waterway. The road takes about 1 hour, while the waterway takes about 3 hours. Our tour group chose the waterway, because in a sense, the thirty-mile waterway is an indispensable scenery in Tongli in my mind.

Boarding the cruise ship, the ship was sailing in the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal. The weather was half cloudy and half clear. There were about twenty or thirty passengers from all over the cabin in the cabin, including a Korean woman, about 30 years old. , lightly applied with makeup, with a simple expression, looking more like a Japanese. I was sitting there discussing funding issues with the tour guide. There was also a family of three, probably because they were locals, they just kept putting things in their mouths and paid no attention to the scenery outside. After watching the scenery through the window for a while, I finally couldn't help but run to the bow of the boat and chat with the boss. I heard that I was from Henan, but he only knew Kaifeng, but regrettably he had not left Suzhou for decades.

My interest greatly increased. After answering his question about Bao Qingtian, I pointed to the plants on the water and asked him if it was because the water was too dirty. He said that those things were originally taken by the people in the countryside. The food was used to feed the pigs, but when the conditions improved and it was no longer useful, it could not be cleaned up. "Look, those workers are cleaning up the garbage on the water every day." Following his hand, he saw several ships on the shore, and someone was setting up a net to salvage something. In fact, in my opinion, the clusters of plants floating in the water are quite a sight. In particular, some small purple flowers have bloomed, which are extremely charming. They are sandwiched on both sides of the river bank and adjacent to the green grass in between, adding to the unique atmosphere of the water town.

After the boat completely left the city, I counted the stone bridges and hurriedly took photos, as if bidding farewell to my childhood friends, because the boss of the boat told me that two or three of the ancient bridges would be completed in two months. was torn down. After passing by a floating market that sells rice just like Lu Xun wrote, the boat unknowingly arrived at Baodai Bridge. According to the tour guide, Baodai Bridge was built in the Yuanhe period of the Tang Dynasty (1829). It was built by Wang Zhongshu, the governor of Suzhou at the time. In order to raise funds for the construction of the bridge, Wang Zhongshu took the lead in donating his treasure belt, and the name of the treasure belt bridge came from this. Baodai Bridge is built of hard and simple Jinshan stone. The bridge is 316.8 meters long and has 53 holes. It is the longest porous stone bridge among the existing ancient bridges in my country. The Baodai Bridge we see now was rebuilt during the Zhengtong period of the Ming Dynasty. During the Xianfeng period of the Qing Dynasty and the Anti-Japanese War, the damage was quite serious due to the destruction by British imperialism and Japanese invaders. After liberation, the people's government repaired the ancient bridge according to the scale and shape of the Ming Dynasty. The Baodai Bridge not only improves the traffic conditions between the Grand Canal and Tantai Lake, but also because of its exquisite manufacturing and the surrounding green mountains and green waters, it just looks like a treasure belt floating in the water town wilderness, making it even more beautiful. posture.

Lu Shiyi, a poet of the Qing Dynasty, passed by here and wrote: "The water of Tantai Lake is as green as oil, the Baodai Bridge is flat and floating, and 30,000 green peach trees are planted. Every spring outing in the flowers." The most beautiful time of Baodai Bridge is when the moon is in the sky. At that time, each bridge hole presents a moon's shadow reflected on the lake - "The crested hairpin is lost in Yaotai, and the jade belt lies in the water reflecting the green moss. On the moonlit night of the Mid-Autumn Festival, Fifty-three holes take a photo."

After listening to the tour guide’s introduction, I not only imagined that if beauty stood between heaven and earth, and the vast river was her skirt, then the Baobao Bridge should be the silk ribbon she strung up with a jade pendant.

After leaving Baodai Bridge, as soon as the boat turned, a deep and long waterway opened between the two banks mixed with trees, weeds, crops, and feedlots. At this time, the clusters of plants in the water made the journey even more picturesque. There were occasionally one or two peasant women passing by with hoes on the shore, and one or two houses were built along the water. There was a fifteen or sixteen-year-old man in front of the house. A girl is washing vegetables, and opposite a group of geese are playing and chasing among the quiet grass, green water, and bamboo fences... This scene can't help but remind me of the ancient times. So many loves are related to the river. It must be far away from society. The orderly wilderness can inspire people's natural emotions. I wonder if the poet who chanted: "If you follow it back, the road is long and blocked. If you follow it, you will wander in the middle of the water." Is the poet also on a boat drifting outside? When he saw such a girl, he forgot all the worldly ties and couldn't help but pour out his love to her.

Abandoned the ship and landed, followed the tour guide into Tongli. Because the town was under construction at the time, when entering, I saw on the big sign introducing Tongli that the story of the opera "Pearl Tower" happened here. Except for that, everything else has too many similarities with Zhouzhuang, which I visited last year. Along the way, only Pinzi Bridge and Tuisi Garden impressed me deeply.

Pinzi Bridge refers to the three Taiping, Jili and Changqing bridges built in the Qing Dynasty. They are small, exquisite, simple and elegant, and are distributed in the shape of Pinzi. They are the three treasures among Tongli bridges. Residents in the town have the custom of "crossing the three bridges for good luck" when they are getting married, when their babies are one month old, or when the elderly are celebrating their birthdays.

"Tuisi Garden" is taken from "Zuo Zhuan" "Thinking deeply when entering, making up for mistakes when retreating", the director of the garden, Lan Sheng, was appointed as the Daotai and Fengyang Supervisor of the Liusi Army in Anhui Province during the Tongzhi Year, and was designed The artist is Yuan Long, a master of poetry, calligraphy and painting.

Legend has it that before the garden was completed, Ren Lansheng angered the Empress Dowager Cixi because he was too soft-hearted in suppressing the Nian Army. Lafayette issued an edict asking him to go to Beijing to report his crime. Faced with Cixi's pressing pressure in the court, Ren Lansheng Answering with this word, he finally answered Lafayette's "What should I do in the future?" Shi Yun said: "Retreat and reflect on your mistakes, and then serve the country." Thus, he avoided a fatal disaster.

Due to terrain constraints, Tuisi Garden changed the traditional layout from vertical to horizontal, from west to east, with houses in the west, courtyards in the middle, and gardens in the east. Its architecture makes full use of halls, terraces, and buildings. , pavilions, corridors, bridges, pavilions, pavilions, halls, land boats, water boats, various techniques, well-proportioned, one scene at a time.

Entering the waterside pavilion from Suihan Garden, the pavilion has overhanging eaves and clear water in the pool. The blue sky and white clouds are reflected in the water, and a few red fish are floating in it. There is a bright mirror on the wall, and you can look into the mirror and enjoy the scenery. There is a garden in the garden. Especially on a full moon night, the moon in the sky, the moon in the water, and the moon in the mirror complement each other to create an interesting scene, which captures the meaning of heaven, earth, and people.

Standing in front of the wall and thinking about the hall, with a panoramic view of the garden, it is really hard for Ren Lansheng to think about going back to serve as an official at this time. It seems that once he enters the officialdom, he will never redeem himself.

After many twists and turns, we finally reached the lady’s attic. Looking down, the most eye-catching ones are the golden osmanthus, silver osmanthus and red osmanthus trees in the Osmanthus Hall. When the wind blows, the fallen flowers fall into formations. Although the tourists are covered with them, they can't bear to shake off these fragrant petals. . I remember that there was a foreign tourist group that went to the attic with me. When I heard them praising the scenery of the garden, I couldn't help but wave to my friends downstairs. Maybe my actions infected them and annoyed two fat foreigners among them. I shouted down below: "Hey!"

When we returned to Suzhou, the sun had already hung on the tree pole, and a red apricot flag waved goodbye to us across the bank in the autumn wind.

At 17:30 in the afternoon, because the ship was blocked midway, we took a minibus and rushed to another terminal. Everyone was complaining, but I was secretly glad in my heart. Although I couldn't see the sunset on the river, I could still see the scenery of the water town along the road. Therefore, when everyone in the car closed their eyes and meditated due to a day's fatigue, the paddy fields, buildings, and trees flashing past the window became the scenery that said goodbye to me. Farewell, the old city gate of Gusu...

< p> As we drove all the way, the light outside the window gradually dimmed, and in the end we could only see lights burning everywhere to form a Milky Way on earth. The car had already arrived at the pier. We took the ship "Paradise".

I jumped into the cabin and couldn't wait to open the curtains, and I could see half of the sky. It was around 19:30. There were some clouds on the edge of the sky. The moon was completely covered, and there was only a little bit of light to remind people of her. exist.

After washing up, the ship had already left the dock. At this time, I looked out again. On the vast river, except for one or two fishing fires shining in the distance, I could not see anything sitting in the cabin. arrive! Just like a half-done dream that was awakened at the most wonderful place, my mind suddenly sank. Although I know that the scenery of the mountains changes from morning to night, as in the late spring and late autumn, I still think that I finally got to the river, but I was deceived by the weather and the cabin. Such a regret, the fatigue of the day will be with the moist breath of the river outside the window. , in the boundless loneliness, the noise of the engine outside became a lullaby.

When I woke up, I was suddenly surprised to find that the semi-circle moon was shining brightly above my head. Although the surrounding thin clouds had not dispersed, they could no longer block the bright moonlight from spreading over the river. There are layers of silver light.

I almost jumped up, ignoring the pain of my head being hit on the cabin wall, and hurriedly woke up my sleeping friend, and then read to him: "The river and sky are one color without dust, and there is a lone moon in the bright sky. ” sentence, I am grateful that God has not failed me. Even though the moon is waning, it has made me realize a wish I have had for nearly 20 years.

"There is frost at night in the water country, and the moon is cold and the mountains are pale. Who said that a thousand miles will come from this evening? The dream is as long as the pass." Represented by Xue Tao's "Send Off a Friend", it has been popular since ancient times. The bright moon on the river is always associated with the poet's sorrow of separation. Thinking of the same moonlight and the same journey, how many dynasties' wanderers have the same melancholy? The most representative ones are Du Fu and the pipa girl, who are the same people who have been reduced to the end of the world. Looking at the moonlight is just "the vast river is soaked in the moon when we say goodbye" and "only the autumn moon in the heart of the river is white"; another example is Zhang Ruoxu, who also expressed his views on life. There are many emotions of meaning: "Life is endless from generation to generation, but the river and the moon are only similar every year"... Who among them, like me, has a pious yearning and love for life between the two paradises of Suzhou and Hangzhou? How about feeling a secret happiness and warmth in life?

If Suzhou’s Wu Nong soft language and garden culture are embroidered into a three-dimensional Chinese landscape painting, then the Hangzhou in my mind is a cup of Longjing tea brewed with West Lake water from the Yue opera and poetry culture. At the beginning, a wisp of fragrance was immersed in China's history of more than a thousand years.

The first time I came into contact with Hangzhou was when I was a child, I memorized the line from a Tang poem: "Just call Hangzhou Bianzhou." But what finally made me come to Hangzhou was because there was a Zhejiang Xiaobaihua Yue Opera Troupe. Mao Weitao, my heart has been involved in her for nearly ten years...

Throughout the night, under the moonlight, my friend and I chatted by the window, from Maomao to Yue Opera, from Suzhou to Hangzhou, From childhood to youth, from work to family, I don’t feel tired until daybreak. I don't know when I fell into a deep sleep. When the sound of the river lapping the shore outside the window woke me up, it was already the morning of the third day. Many people were standing on the deck. On the lawn on the shore, an old man dressed in white was doing morning exercises, pointing his sword as if he were a celestial being. Within a wall, weeping willows flow out from inside, the morning breeze blows, and heaven is right in front of you.

Other travel notes:/dispbbs.asp?BoardID=81

Introduction and pictures of Jiangsu attractions:

/jiangsu.asp