What did I experience in Nagqu, northern Tibet?

There is a pure land in my heart, a place where all desires and distracting thoughts cannot go.

It is like a holy lake, calm and crystal clear. Whenever I feel confused and confused about this world with the largest population and the smallest resources, I will come to it and pray for the weakest person in my body. Baptize the area.

The unremitting pursuit of life tempted me to leave the noisy city and walk into this vast land with a beautiful and innocent yearning.

The snow-capped mountains that will not melt and the land that will not thaw have erected barriers in front of me. I have retreated and retreated completely, and I was so embarrassed that I had no way out. This is the highest place in the world. You can overlook all the desolation of the society of desire, and you can hear all the deceptions and lies of secular people thousands of miles away.

The wind here can also speak. When the childish ideal was smashed into pieces by the ice on the snow peak, I picked up the pen and wanted to let my soul and words come into contact for the last time. At this time, the wind Came to my ears, whispered, and told me the news of spring!

The stream is gurgling, the sun is shining brightly, and the Gesang flowers are blooming quietly on the green grass. Everything here is filled with the vitality of life.

When a person is on a plateau, with the blue sky above his head, the solid earth under his feet, and looking up at the snow-covered peaks, hunger and lack of oxygen are as terrifying as encountering wolves. Without faith, it is difficult to move forward.

My faith is like a stone in my belly. It is born here and grows here. It is a mixture of thoughts, like a bloodstone. Every line is my flowing blood vessel. Every line is it. The surging river, perseverance is its never-ending motivation!

When you set foot on the plateau, you should be afraid of its sanctity and tolerance, because here you will find how small you are, as small as an ant. No, maybe smaller than an ant, among all things in Qinghai-Tibet, which one is not a treasure that has gone through vicissitudes of life and been eliminated thousands of times! Even a small piece of grass, no bigger than the palm of your hand, has experienced hundreds of years of ups and downs.

I have always been full of infatuated admiration for the plateau, so when I traveled to Nagqu in northern Tibet and followed the owner of the ranch to pick mushrooms on the grassland, I encountered those plants, trees, flowers and leaves. Be extremely careful, because the life in front of you is too precious! They sprout in July, bloom in August, and wither and wither before September.

While all living beings are exhausting their brains and pursuing it all their lives for money, one or a family of worshipers is prostrating on the plateau. They were carrying heavy luggage and running in the wind and snow. Their bodies were extremely tired, but their souls were extremely free and relaxed. Perhaps, sometimes we cannot choose the environment we are in, but we can choose our beliefs. This may be the difference between looking down and looking up!

Walking on the plateau at night, dark clouds obscured the moonlight, and the noise under the neon lights drowned out the solemn Sanskrit sounds. For more than ten years, I have traveled all over the mountains and rivers of Qinghai, from the Tanggula Pass, the highest road in the world, to the tent monastery Pergomba in Naqu, northern Tibet, from the source of the Sanjiang River to the Gangdise Mountains, from Shigatse to Medog , Everywhere I went, I was deeply shocked, and my heart couldn't calm down for a long time. The beautiful scenery brought a shocking shock to the vision; the simple and refreshing folk customs, the relaxed and comfortable life, are the perfect way for you to live in a reinforced concrete house. Something you can never experience in a pigeon cage!

Whether I pass by by chance or stay on purpose, I will blend in, drinking highland barley wine from a large bowl, using a Tibetan knife to peel the dried lamb legs, and swallowing them generously but with difficulty. Sometimes, I would sit on the motorcycle of Tibetan young man Tashi, play loud Tibetan songs, turn the volume to the maximum, and ride on the grassland to my heart's content. Maybe tomorrow, maybe next year, I will leave here and return to my hometown. However, this desolate wind, white snow, majestic mountains, sacred lake, and passionate people will remain deep in my heart forever!

One night in Naqu, northern Tibet, I wandered alone in a tavern. The tavern is very small and can only accommodate four or five tables. The urgently needed supplies at the Anduo railway construction site have been distributed. After a few days of tension, we finally had some time to rest.

The owner of the tavern is a woman in her twenties from Chengdu, Sichuan. Since she and my nephew live in the same city, we have many different topics. She looks delicate, but she is extremely capable and fierce. No, the words have already arrived before she arrives, and she has an aura that has been in the world for a long time.

A steaming bowl of Maoxuewang and a plate of green lettuce were quickly served.

The Maoxuewang here is indeed very authentic, with plump tripe lying on the red duck blood, mung bean sprouts dotted all over the place, tender bamboo shoots with wide white and pink teeth, and a few slices of ham with faint green on them. The coriander is scattered among them, and the fiery red spicy oil fills the gaps between the dishes. The aroma is tempting and mouth-watering!

Good food and good wine must also be good. I went to the supermarket next door and bought a bottle of Highland Barley Prince. The jade wine poured out, pure and transparent, and I felt elegant and delicate. The mouth was full of fragrance, and my mood was as intoxicating as the wine! The fatigue of several months after entering Tibet disappeared instantly!

I went to Tibet in May. At a lunch, the company’s manager Wang said half-jokingly and half-seriously: Brothers, we will weigh ourselves soon, and we will weigh ourselves again when we go down the mountain at the end of the year. Reward one thousand yuan! Everyone burst into laughter. In fact, anyone who has been to the plateau knows that in such an environment, no matter how good the food is, you will not gain weight. In the plateau, the absorption is only half of that in the plains. When you are sick, you take medicine. If you take one pill at home, you will take two pills here.

Before I returned to Golmud in November, I weighed myself and lost a total of 40 pounds. I weighed 18 pounds before going up the mountain and 14 pounds after going down. I can no longer wear many of my underwear and underwear. It looks like a big skirt. Back at Jiao Writers' House, my wife Yun'er looked at my thin face, feeling distressed and wiping away tears!

The company has regulations that prohibit drinking on the plateau. Today I secretly had a drink and enjoyed myself. Outside the window, under the blue sky, a flying dragon carved in silver and jade lies quietly. It is so majestic and beautiful that people don't want to move their eyes for a long time.

Suddenly, the door of the tavern banged open, and a Tibetan man broke in, followed by a biting cold wind. I looked outside and saw a motorcycle in front of the door. The car was beautifully decorated, with colorful tassels hanging from the two front handlebars, the fuel tank, and the taillights, like a bride to be married.

The man sat down and did not speak. The boss seemed to be quite familiar with him and brought him a bottle of wine. There was a disposable cup inserted in the chopstick cage on the table. The Tibetan man took it and opened the wine. He doesn’t even order food and pour himself a drink. After a while, a bottle of wine is empty!

Watching him staggering out the door, and then leaving amidst the roar of the motorcycle, he came and went in a hurry. I looked at the empty bottles and then looked at how much I had spent. I only drank 2 taels of cups in an hour, which was not only a bit embarrassing!

The female boss was talking while clearing the table. Tibetan men are generally like this. They are bold in nature, dare to love and hate, and their drinking style is like their character. They are rough and unrestrained. They drink without restraint and drink too much. Just find a corner, wrap yourself in a large and warm Tibetan robe, and fall to the ground to sleep!

Wine is very important at weddings in northern Tibet. In Nagqu, Qinghai, people must bring "Yaxu Youcang" (proposal wine) when proposing marriage. If the woman is interested, she will invite the village elders and matchmakers to drink together. "Engagement wine", once you drink this wine, the famous woman will be married to you, and other Jujue (young men) will stop trying to make plans! This is the plateau, a magical place, a paradise that people yearn for.

After drinking the remaining wine in the cup, I walked out of the house and looked at the white clouds within reach and the majestic snow peaks that stood upright all year round. I saw herders’ tents dotted on the grassland, and occasionally some were riding motorcycles. The Tibetan young man passing by, the loudspeaker on the motorcycle was playing Tibetan songs with a brisk rhythm! The shepherdess walked slowly from the white clouds, followed by the snow-like flock of sheep.

If life is like this, it is not a blessing! Think about all the living beings in the city, who save money and money just to buy a pigeonhouse to lock themselves in. The coldness of the steel and concrete structure is nowhere compared to the warmth of a tent close to the grass! The city is artificially creating all kinds of desires all the time, and then tying itself up with iron chains made of desire, swelling in fantasy, gasping in failure, howling in despair, and finally dying in sighs.

If life is like this, it is worse than a grassroots on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau!