Hemu, may you retain the tranquility and beauty of the past

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I went on a free trip to Northern Xinjiang more than ten years ago. I rode horseback from Kanas Lake to Hemu, crossed rivers, waded through creeks, passed through pine forests, and galloped through Walking in the grassland, walking in the wilderness, climbing over the cliffs, walking leisurely and staggering towards the legendary and beautiful Hemu. Under the blue sky and white clouds, the blue Ka River, clear streams, white sheep, leisurely camels, green fir forests, green pastures, soaring eagles, fresh breeze, light yellow shrubs, colorful wild flowers, tranquility The wilderness, the singing that couldn’t help shouting to the sky, and the laughter along the way, constitute a perfect trip that will be unforgettable for a lifetime.

After climbing over the last mountain ridge, we walked to a small open space on the mountainside (it probably didn’t have a name at the time, but it is now called a viewing platform). We immediately looked into the distance and saw Hemu Village quietly located at the end of the river valley. Close your eyes. The green surrounding mountains, lush birch forests, green grasslands, blue rivers, exquisite cabins, winding country roads, and the mist-like halo under the sun form an exquisite, poetic and picturesque picture. The picture instantly amazed us! The legendary beautiful, poetic and romantic Hemu Village truly deserves its reputation.

Stayed one night at a Kazakh herdsman’s house. The host and hostess are simple and kind, they don't talk much, and they don't speak Chinese well. Home-cooked meals are rich and delicious, and the charges are not expensive. The waves of the blue Hemu River rolled and flowed past the wooden house where we lived. There are many stones of different sizes scattered along the river, which have been washed smooth and round by the river water. On the bank are green grass, and there are clusters of fir trees and white birches intertwined with each other. The wooden structure of the Hemu Bridge is not far away, looking simple, natural and poetic.

In the early morning, the golden sunshine shines from the distant mountain tops, and the small chimneys on the small wooden roofs of the herdsmen have curls of cooking fire rising up. The green grass in front of and behind the house was covered with a golden halo. The dewdrops on the grass tips sparkled in the cool morning breeze. A group of cattle with clean fur, driven by the villagers' gentle voices, walked slowly across the Hemu Bridge towards the lush green grassy hillside on the opposite side. The birch forest in the distance blinks with passionate eyes, and the broad leaves sway gently in the wind, making a rustling sound like a whisper. On the wooden fence in front of the wooden house, a little boy wearing red clothes climbed up and looked at us curiously. In some people's fences, there are a few sheep eating cut grass. Occasionally, a villager leads two or three horses on the dirt road in the village.

There were very few tourists in the morning, there was no traffic, and the village seemed very peaceful. There are almost no large-scale professional hotels, inns and restaurants in the village. The villagers basically live an original and self-sufficient farming and pastoral life.

Probably this picturesque and pastoral village left such a wonderful impression on me. This summer, after visiting Cocotuo Sea, I couldn’t help but come to Hemu again. Sense of Intention Relive its distinctive beauty, romance and tranquility.

Before entering the village, I already felt that Hemu Village today is very different from before. The area of ??the village has more than doubled by visual inspection, and many new cabins have been built. The sandy dirt roads in the village turned into cement roads. Buses and buses are connected to the village, and several bus stops are set up. Most of the wooden houses in the village have been turned into inns, dotted here and there, one next to another, with shining lights and smoke. Tourists are walking around, eating and drinking, sitting and talking and laughing, making it a lively scene.

After wandering around, I found a house where I lived more than ten years ago, and I wanted to still live in their house. However, the host informed them that they had built a new house in Hemu New Village and it was fully booked. They enthusiastically helped contact inns that still had vacancies, and invited us to have breakfast at their house tomorrow morning.

We arrived at their new home as promised the next day. Sure enough, I saw three wooden houses, one for my own use and the other two rented out to others to run inns. The male host was still strong and honest, with a sincere smile. He opened his arms and gave me a warm and powerful hug, which made people feel a kind of sincere joy and welcome.

The breakfast was very rich, with bread, cheese, honey, ketchup, and refreshments all placed on the rectangular wooden table. Most of them were homemade by the hostess and tasted very good.

They grow grass and taro, raise horses, and have two houses for rent. My son, who was still a little boy back then, has now grown into a strong and sturdy young man. He just took the college entrance examination this year and is preparing to go to university in Shenzhen. They seemed to be living peacefully and contentedly.

I don’t know when the complex of riding horses to pass through fortresses and galloping across the grasslands was still there. So I rented the owner's bay-red horse, crossed the suspension bridge, waded across the stream, and trotted along the mountainside path to satisfy my daydream of a knight-errant hero traveling the world on a white horse, light fur, and sword.

There are many tourists, groups of little red riding hoods, small yellow flags, and backpackers in small and small groups, swaying in the trees by the river.

The horses of each family are included in the unified management and operation of the village horse team. There were also many people riding horses, men and women, big and small. Troops of horses shuttled back and forth on the dirt road on the mountainside, raising fine smoke and dust.

The side of the Hemu River near the village is under construction and renovation. The green grass along the river has basically disappeared, and a solid embankment is being built with countless large pebbles and cement. A plank road is being built on the cobblestone embankment, and wooden boards are laid on the iron frame. Standing by the river, seeing such transformation of the once wild and beautiful riverside, I felt very distressed and very regretful!

Thinking about it later, this was probably a helpless move. With so many tourists flocking here, it turns out that the muddy green grass beach can withstand the trampling of this tide of people! If we don’t build stone embankments and build plank roads, it will probably be impossible.

Fortunately, the water of Hemu River is still blue. Hemu Bridge still maintains its original simplicity. The suspension bridge is still there. The mountains on both sides of the river are still green, and the green grasslands and birch forests are still there. In the morning, Hemu Village still vaguely retains its original appearance.

However, in the same summer, the tranquility of the past is no longer found. Instead, there is a strong commercial atmosphere, noisy bustling, and the smell of fireworks from barbecue cooking. The new and added cabins give the village an increasingly expanding feel. The grassy river beach is gone, replaced by stone, reinforced concrete and wooden boards. There are no more herds of cattle, and they are no longer allowed to be raised due to environmental concerns. There are no more dirt roads in the village where you can smell the earthy smell. The natural picture of farming and pastoral life is being diluted by the increasingly prosperous tourism economy.

Beauty often cannot withstand uncontrolled human patronage.

After jumping off the horse, the owner's somewhat shy son took the reins and asked me in a low voice: "Do you like the Hemu now or the Hemu ten years ago?"

I answered without thinking: "Ten years ago."

The young man smiled lightly and said nothing. He was still a child at that time, and he must remember the quiet and beautiful appearance of the village in his childhood.

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