Go to Taicang to eat three delicacies of rivers and seas _ Taicang three delicacies

Taicang, Jiangsu is a wealthy town with a particularly advantageous geographical position. Located at the intersection of rivers and seas, it faces the Yangtze River in the east and is close to Shanghai, with open waters. The Liuhe River in Taicang is located at the end of the river, and the unique water environment has formed a good place where the three flowers of "Jianghai River" can gather. The foodies have the best sense of smell. A large group of us followed the delicious smell of fish, shrimp and crabs and went straight to the "new stable and happy hotel" in Liuhe Town, Taicang.

Various methods of fish, shrimp and crab

Because all the people who went with us were famous and delicious people who could eat, the restaurant knew we were going, and specially asked the chef to prepare a table of delicious seafood. Besides vegetables, there are fish, shrimp and crabs.

After eating all the "harbor brine shrimp", "vinegar pepper jellyfish", "smoked fish", "double-flavored snail" and "tempura bamboo shrimp" one by one, the "steamed Yangtze fish with bad oil" appeared. Knowing that Taicang's rotten oil is particularly famous, it can cook many vegetarian dishes, and it is not unusual to steam fish. In the words of chef Zhang Hui, the strange thing is the ingredients of fish. Yangtze fish is light in skin color, not as fat as farmed fish, and its entrance is tender and smooth, which is definitely the difference between farmed fish bought in Shanghai market and the ground. The chef taught us to marinate the fish in Taicang local bad oil and onion ginger for half an hour, add some bad oil, onion ginger and beer when steaming, and steam it in a cage for 15 minutes.

"Braised Yangtze River Bass" is well done. The selected bass is much larger than the bass we bought in the market, at least seven or eight kilograms, and dozens of kilograms. What is the concept of "burning incense"? After listening to the introduction, I feel that cooking is really a test: first marinate the fish with salt and onion ginger for 2 hours, and then put it into a double-sided furnace. Cover the bass with tin foil and simmer for 20 minutes. At the same time, take the fish in and out, uncover the tin foil and wipe off the oil for 20 minutes. It's really delicious, and the bass meat is tender.

I can't help sighing loudly when I say "grilled fish with clear soup from the Yangtze River". The chef is really creative. It is a bowl of white water, with a dozen pale and thin grilled fish swimming in it. Take a sip of soup first, it's tasteless, then eat a fish and look at each other at the same table. I smiled and said, "Isn't that my cat's dinner?" In fact, the story of The Emperor's New Clothes is staged every day in this world, including the reading world, the fashion world and the food world. A senior gourmet opened his mouth to clear the gap. He said, "Try dipping in soy sauce. Very delicious. "

Eating puffer fish "till death do us part"

This gourmet tour is an activity organized by the radio program "What to Eat Today" and attended by friends and guests. Participants have a certain level of food production and appreciation. In the laughter, the highlight "Braised Puffer" finally came to the table. China is known as "eating puffer fish desperately" to show the delicacy of puffer fish and the fearless spirit of gluttons. The puffer fish is very small, and everyone's share is a fish, plus a large piece of fish white. Maybe it's the season. Last March, I went to Yangzhou to eat puffer fish, but I didn't see white fish. A piece of fish liver was served with boiled puffer fish. But Liuhe people confidently said, "This fish is a treasure!"

In retrospect, the first time I ate puffer fish in my life was in the suburbs of Shanghai. I only remember that at that time, everyone was full of wine and food, and I had been expecting puffer fish to come up for a long time. Unexpectedly, it turned out to be a plate of small fish. However, not pretending to be afraid seems to offend the host's pleasure. I smiled at each other and ate with everyone, saying that I had enough anyway, and I wouldn't become a ghost if I died. Unfortunately, the mouth didn't distinguish the delicacy of fish at all, and the threat of toxicity drifted away with the wind, just like taking part in a lame adventure game.

The second time I ate puffer fish was Yangzhou, and the food in Yangzhou left a deep impression on me. On that day, the food lovers at the same table attracted our attention to the exquisite production of puffer fish in the "Lushi Ancient House". Sure enough, this puffer fish is amazing beyond my expectation. A little puffer fish is as cute as a tiny dolphin with a bulging belly. Its skin is particularly full, it sticks to the lips when touched, and its meat quality is particularly delicate. The abalone juice is added to the soup, which sets off the puffer fish's own "invitation" and has a light and sexy color.

At this time, food lovers remind everyone to pay attention to the liver of puffer fish, which is a boutique in the boutique. Chefs who specialize in puffer fish know that the liver of puffer fish tastes the best, but countless blood vessels around the liver must be carefully removed before eating. I found two pieces of puffer fish liver on my plate. My eyes naturally closed when I tasted it, because it was so thin, smooth and tender that it was even more fascinating than the legendary most exquisite foie gras in the restaurant.

Moreover, the braised puffer fish eaten by Taicang Liuhe is really pleasing in appearance. First, it's overcooked and the fish is bad. The second is to add grass heads, which will not be noticed when they are full and hang on the edge of the plate. Braised puffer fish tastes good, and the chef himself found the problem. He explained that because puffer fish paste is rich in fat and easy to paste, putting some grass heads under the fish is not easy to paste, and grass heads are delicious.

As for the soup of puffer fish, people who can eat it will never let go of the choice of bibimbap. That day in Yangzhou, although I was full, I still mixed rice with fish soup, and accidentally turned over a piece of liver while mixing. I was so happy that I quickly took pictures as a souvenir.

Braised bass and loofah soup

When summer comes, all the dishes at home are linked to the word "light". Sitting in an air-conditioned room to work, sometimes I can't help being hungry. When my colleagues vividly described the sour and fresh soup cooked last night, my mouth was full of envy.

Buy live bass after work. I think, more than ten years ago, when cultured bass just met the public, the fresh and tender taste was respected as the top grade by diners. At one time, it was popular to eat raw perch in restaurants in Shanghai. The perch was cut open, boned and sliced, and made into "killing sago". Just like the tuna under the Atlantic Ocean, it is dipped in mustard and eaten very heroically. Later, the hospital discovered several strange cases of intestinal parasites, only to know that the water quality in China was so poor. This way of eating is a joke. Now everyone doesn't eat raw perch, but steamed and braised to make soup.

750g bass, washed, cut off the head and tail, cut in the middle, remove the big bones, cut into slightly thick fillets, and knead with fine salt, cooking wine, monosodium glutamate and corn starch for later use; After the head and tail bones are put into a pot to boil soup, the bones are removed; Cut tomatoes, stir-fry them in cooking oil, crush them with a spatula and put them in fish soup. When the fire is boiling, turn it down. Pour in some tomato sauce, until the soup turns red, put in loofah, peel it, and cut it into hob blocks; Then pour in the fish fillets, cut them gently, roll them slightly, and skim off the floating foam.

If the housewife is lazy and the tongue of the family is smart and easy to serve, then the perch doesn't need to be boned from head to tail, just cut into several large pieces. In that case, the fish can be stewed in the soup for a long time, and the soup may taste better.

This pot of soup is quite rich and beautiful in color. The red soup is rolled with white bass slices like silver edges, and the loofah is light green. Fish fillets are fresh and tender, loofah is soft, and tomatoes have been integrated into the soup, which makes the soup sour and memorable.

If the pot is wide and the family has a good appetite, you can also buy an old tofu and cut it into pieces and put it in. I heard that there is another kind of "cat's ear", which is to stir flour with water until it is gluten, and add soup one by one. Don't stir too much before solidification to avoid the soup being too turbid.

"Sea bass and loofah soup" should also be drunk hot in summer, and it tastes heavy when it is cold. Family, you have a bowl and I have a bowl. I've been drinking until I'm sweaty and naked. It's cool.