Urgently seek the travel notes of Luoyang ~ thank you ~

In the long history of China, no capital has the earliest capital, the most dynasties and the longest history, which can be compared with Luoyang. This ancient city with a history of nearly 5000 years. Since the summer, 13 dynasties have established their capitals here, and the cumulative capital establishment time has reached 1529 years. Known as the ancient capital of the Nine Dynasties.

Luoyang, named after being located in the north of Luohe, is an important birthplace of Chinese civilization and has a profound ancient cultural heritage. It is a place that people dream back to the Millennium: Dingding Kyushu, Prince of the Eastern Han Dynasty, Zhang Heng Sanyi, Cai Lun Paper-making, Jian 'an Style, Luoyang Paper-making Expensive and other historical events all took place here. "If you ask the rise and fall of ancient and modern times, please only look at Luoyang City. Therefore, it has become one of the first historical and cultural cities and seven ancient capitals announced by the State Council.

Luoyang is the third stop of our trip to Henan. When we left Zhengzhou and arrived in Luoyang, it was already evening. After arranging the hotel for us, our colleagues in Luoyang took us to a restaurant called "Really Different" and tasted the famous "water mat" in Luoyang. It is said that Luoyang water mat started from the people. In the Tang Dynasty, when Wu Zetian was in power, Luoyang water mat entered the palace, and with delicacies, it was made into a palace banquet and returned to the people from the palace. Therefore, it has formed a unique flavor, and it is also called the official banquet because it imitates the production method of the official banquet. For thousands of years, Luoyang water mat has been invincible for a long time and was first used.

Luoyang water mat, with 24 dishes, is called "Sanba mat" for short. Start with six cold cuts, and the cold cuts are four meats and four vegetarian dishes. After 16 hot dishes, different types of blue and white sea bowls are used for hot dishes. 16 There are four pressing dishes in the gourmet. For other 12 dishes, every three dishes with similar tastes are grouped, and each group has a large dish collar. This is called "taking the book to court", and eating one at a time is like flowing water.

Luoyang water mat has three characteristics: first, it is fully prepared, cold and persistent; Second, there is soup and water, both north and south are delicious; Third, the order of serving is strictly standardized and the collocation is reasonable. Swallow food is the most famous water mat. It is said that Premier Zhou specially ordered this dish when accompanying foreign leaders to visit Luoyang. The so-called "swallow dish" is actually thin shredded radish, which looks like a bird's nest, hence the name "swallow dish". If there is no express provision, it can really be genuine, refreshing and delicious, and the taste is really special.

After breakfast the next day, the enthusiastic host drove us to the bank of the Yi River 12km south of Luoyang, and visited the Longmen Grottoes, which is as famous as Yungang Grottoes in Datong and Thousand Buddha Grottoes in Dunhuang, and is known as one of the three ancient art treasures in China.

In August, in Luoyang, the sky is crisp, under the blue sky and white clouds, between the green trees and the green wind, the green hills on both sides of the Yi River confront each other. The beautiful Yi River flows northward in the mountains and shines slightly in the sun. The green hills on both sides are majestic and rough, just like the natural gate, so it is called "Yi Que" in history. It was called "Longmen" in Han Dynasty. It is said that after Yang Di ascended the throne, when he was in Chang 'an, he always felt that it was not easy to control the whole country, while Luoyang was a "harmony of heaven and earth, harmony of yin and yang", which could "rule the three rivers and consolidate the four blockages" and was connected by land and water, so he moved the capital. He personally led the civil and military officials to Luoyang. When he saw this, he was overjoyed and said to the civil and military officials around him, "Isn't this the Longmen? Why not build its capital here since ancient times? " The minister next to him immediately complimented: "I haven't known it since ancient times, just to wait for your majesty." So "Yi Que" was officially changed to "Longmen".

Longmen Grottoes are built on the cliffs on the east and west sides of Yishui, with a length of 1 km from north to south. We set off along the right bank of Yishui, climbed to the top of the mountain and carefully watched this magnificent grotto complex. According to records, Longmen Grottoes began around the Northern Wei Dynasty (AD 494) and were vigorously built by the Eastern Wei, Western Wei, Northern Qi, Northern Zhou and Sui Dynasties. During the period from Emperor Taizong to Xuanzong, Longmen Grottoes reached the second peak of excavation because Princess Taiping and Wu Zetian advocated Buddhism. After more than 400 years of excavation from the Northern Wei Dynasty to the Northern Song Dynasty, there are 1352 grottoes, 750 niches, 65,438+more than 10,000 statues, more than 3,600 stone tablets and more than 40 pagodas, ranking first in China.

The most representative Longmen Grottoes are Guyang Cave, Binyang Cave, Lianhua Cave and Fangyao Cave built in the Northern Wei Dynasty. The statues in the grottoes are rich in content and exquisite in shape. The largest Buddha statue is as high as 17. 14 m, and the smallest is only 2 cm. Its boldness of vision, profound implication and exquisite carving are dazzling wonders in the treasure house of world sculpture art.

Go south along the road, pass Jingshan Temple and Wanfo Cave, and come to the most magnificent Fengxian Temple. Due to the long history, most grottoes and Buddha statues have been seriously damaged, but the largest Buddha statue in Longmen Grottoes, Lushenafo, is well preserved. The height of the Buddha statue is17.14m, the head height is 4m, and the ear length is1.9m.. It is plump in shape, gorgeous in appearance, smooth in clothing lines, and especially highly artistic. Condescending and leisurely overlooking all beings, a faint smile and rich eyes are the perfect combination of nobility, richness, openness and elegance, which makes people stop to wait and see and linger. The tour guide said that the location of the Buddha statue was carefully selected, especially her eyes. No matter where you stand, you will feel that she is looking directly at you. I tried left and right, and I really felt those smiling eyes staring straight at me.

There are 140 prescriptions engraved in the prescription cave, which is an important method to pass on ancient medical achievements to future generations. It also reflects the achievements of ancient medicine in China from another angle. It is said that some prescriptions are carved on stone tablets or in caves and found elsewhere.

It was noon when I left the grottoes, and I slipped away from my feet unconsciously for more than four hours. We had lunch nearby, and drove from Longmen Grottoes, which is close to the mountains and waters, to Baima Temple, as if we had broken into the prosperity from silence. Flowers are in full bloom inside and outside the White Horse Temple, and the same people are coming in and out.

Baima Temple, known as "the first ancient temple in China", is located about 12km east of Luoyang. Mangshan Mountain in the north, Luoshui in the south, green trees and red walls, Brahma stupa, the environment is extremely solemn and quiet. "Masi Temple Bell" is known as the second scene among the "Eight Great Scenes of Luoyang".

The White Horse Temple was built in the Eastern Han Emperor Yongping 1 1 year (AD 68), with a long history of 1900 years. According to ancient books, Liu Zhuang, Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty, slept in the Nangong at night and dreamed that the Golden Man was flying around the temple, six feet long and with white light on the top. Later, knowing that he was a Buddha, he sent Cai Mao, Qin Jing and other ministers 18 to worship Buddha in the western regions. Cai, Qin and others went west to Da Yue (now Afghanistan to Central Asia) and met Indian monks to take pictures of Morton and Zhu Falan. At the invitation of Ambassador China, the second Brahma monk rode a white horse and returned to Luoyang, Kyoto with Buddhist scriptures and Buddha statues. The following year, Emperor Hanming ordered the construction of a temple outside the West Yong Men in Luoyang, Kyoto, to commemorate the achievements of the White Horse in carrying scriptures, so it was named White Horse Temple, which was honored as "Ancestral Hall" and "Shiyuan" by Buddhist disciples.

Entering the gate of the scenic spot, the original temple gate is on the left, and a pair of white horses in front are surrounded by stone fences. This pair of stone horses was originally a white horse in front of an imperial tomb, but it was later moved to the front of the temple by the abbot of Baima Temple, and it has been preserved ever since. There are several pavilions in the temple, mainly the Heavenly King Hall, Ursa Major Hall, Jieyin Temple, Balcony and Pilu Pavilion. The Buddha Hall is the main building of Baima Temple, which was built in the Ming Dynasty. There are clay sculptures of "Three Sages of Sakyamuni" in the temple, namely, Sakyamuni Buddha, Manjusri Bodhisattva and Samantabhadra Bodhisattva. Behind the Great Buddha Hall is the Ursa Mahayana Hall. There are eighteen arhats on both sides of the hall, and there are "three buddhas" enshrined in the hall, namely Sakyamuni Buddha, Pharmacist Buddha and Amitabha Buddha. Tianjiang, Wei Li, standing in the north of the back of the temple, is the only remaining clay sculpture of the Yuan Dynasty in Baima Temple. Walking past Jieyin Temple, there is the Cool Terrace, where generations of classics are stored. The last floor of the temple is Pilu Pavilion, which stands on the balcony. It was built in Tang Dynasty, rebuilt in Yuan Dynasty and rebuilt in Ming Dynasty. The temple is dedicated to "Hua Yan San Xian". In front of Piluge, there is a temple in the east and a temple in the west, where two Indian monks carrying white horse Buddhist scriptures take pictures of Morton and Zhu Falan.

The next day, our host took us to see Luoyang Peony, which is very famous in China. Peony is a famous flower in China, with huge flowers, dignified appearance, various varieties and elegance. Known as "the king of flowers", "the king of flowers" and "the king of flowers". Peony is also called An Baili Gold, Peony, Fugui Flower and Luoyang Flower. In the Tang Dynasty, Li Zhengfeng wrote a poem that "the national color is full of wine, and the night fragrance dyes the clothes", making "the national color fragrance" another name for peony.

Peony is one of the woody shrub flowers cultivated earlier in horticulture in China. It first changed from wild to domestic, starting with people's discovery of its medicinal value. Li Shizhen's Compendium of Materia Medica in the Ming Dynasty said: "Peony was named' Mu' (meaning asexual reproduction), and it was renamed' Dan'. Luoyang is the best place to enjoy flowers, especially peony. " Due to its mild climate, moderate rainfall and fertile land, Luoyang has cultivated a variety of precious stones with excellent colors and shapes, which has made thousands of peony varieties and famous products more and more famous throughout the country, so it is known as "Luoyang Peony is the best in the world".

Luoyang people have loved flowers since ancient times. Shao Yong famously said, "Luoyang people are used to exotic flowers, but peaches and plums don't spend. Peony bloom is full of joy, which is a true portrayal of this custom. " Today, peony flowers are better, and all continents are competing to come. "On the day when Luoyang Peony was in full bloom, flowers were like the sea, people were like the tide, and" Jiuqu tourists "came one after another. Looking at the unique style of Luoyang peony, we are all intoxicated with this place. It's really "twenty days in bloom, and people in a city are crazy. "

The greenest peony is "bean green" (close to leaf green), and the deepest peony is "Guan's black jade" (deep purple and black). The peony with the most petals is "Wei Zi" (about six or seven hundred pieces). The reddest peony is "Fire Dan" (red flag). The whitest peony is "luminous white". The bluest peony is "lantian jade". Best intermediate color. It's "Er Qiao" (two colors on a flower). The most confusing thing with real peony is "purse peony" (the leaves are like peony instead of peony).

Walking in the streets of Luoyang, you can see the tri-colored horses of Tang Dynasty everywhere. Tang tri-colored horses, large and small, are neatly arranged on the roadside. The 68th prize horse is very cheap, ranging from 10 to 50 yuan. Tang Sancai was founded in the Southern and Northern Dynasties and flourished after the early Tang Dynasty, with a history of 1400 years. The main products of Luoyang Tang tricolor are pastel civil servants, ladies of Tang Dynasty, bibcock cups and super tricolor horses. Tri-colored sculptures in the Tang Dynasty are rich and plump, neat and delicate, simple in knife work and smooth in lines, showing the spiritual outlook and artistic level of the prosperous Tang Dynasty. It is not only rich in unique artistic style, but also has distinctive national characteristics.

During my two days in Luoyang, I took time to visit the city of Luoyang. To tell the truth, no matter how carefully I pay attention, I don't see the glory I have as an ancient capital of nine dynasties, nor the vitality that a modern city should have. Only when I face the giant Buddha in the grottoes can I arouse my admiration and yearning for the distant ancient customs of the Tang Dynasty.