Prose: Autumn Yellow in Southern Anhui

Beauty is often in casual encounters, perhaps in an instant. The external beauty is touching, but the internal beauty is more admirable. In nature, what is proudly barren and stubborn is the gorgeous autumn yellow of Shan Ye; In life, being trapped in poverty but good at self-reliance is a warm light of human nature. -inscription

Finally, we succeeded. The seven of us took two SUVs and drove on the deserted and slightly empty highway, heading for southern Anhui. The first stop of this trip is the customs clearance of Qian on the ancient road in wuyue, which was built by Wu Yueguo in Ningguo more than 1 100 years ago. Before we set off, we felt everyone's interest as soon as we met. The epidemic in COVID-19 has not stopped, and travel has become scarce and expensive.

Many people have something to attend, which can only be considered as a small team. For many years, my family traveled together from time to time. Everyone likes to travel, but also very grounded, very comfortable, occasionally running around together, drinking and playing cards, feeling very happy. In the past few years, I have been to many places, especially in southern Anhui. However, the COVID-19 epidemic disrupted the original rhythm, and the trip was delayed again and again. There is still a string in everyone's heart, worrying about what moths they will encounter. To this end, everyone agreed that this trip will go to southern Anhui, which is sparsely populated, and I don't want to add anything to my life.

Speaking of southern Anhui, everyone is full of praise. The mountains in southern Anhui are beautiful and lush, the mountain wind blows, the bamboo sea is swaying, and the pines are surging, which makes people relaxed and happy. The water in southern Anhui is clear and agile. In the ripples of pebbles, a cold-water fish with a long tail can be seen everywhere, which makes people feel relaxed and happy. There are also buildings in southern Anhui, which are pure and simple. Washed white walls and black tiles, overlapping horse-head gables, hidden in lush mountains, reflected in mirror-clear water, show a freehand brushwork picture of man and nature. More importantly, those wood carvings, stone carvings and forest of steles are permeated with long-standing historical memories, which solidify the secular life and farming and reading civilization for thousands of years into a regional feature and culture, and present them in a quiet and beautiful way in a fleeting time, making you happy for another encounter, lingering for it, and inadvertently associating with the foundation and inheritance of one side's soil and water. ...

What is particularly worth mentioning is the way of eating in southern Anhui. Well-known signature Huizhou dishes and dazzling specialty snacks are temporarily skipped. The plop plop sound went straight to the table on the open stove, and with the flame, all kinds of mountain materials mixed and spread. How can you resist being hung up? A glass of white wine is mellow and delicious, and I forgot that I was hungry when I climbed the mountain just now. It's worth it It's a good place to travel!

Indeed, the scenery is beautiful, the four seasons are beautiful, and it is a beautiful place like splashing ink; Simple folk customs, a thousand-year-old culture, a soul who can ask questions and reflect. We are happy to go back and forth, and we are used to being carefree in the mellow atmosphere of Huizhou and the beautiful mountains and rivers in southern Anhui.

The wheels rolled all the way to the south, and the fast SUV flashed across the Nanyihu Bridge in the blue waves, and then turned from Gao Ning Expressway to Xuantong Expressway. The terrain outside the window gradually rises and falls, and the mountains of Tianmu Mountain come one after another, and then in a flash, they arrive in southern Anhui. Looking from a distance, layers of mountains are changing rapidly under the sky, as if nature is painting a grand ink painting with the wonderful hand of heaven. It's really beautiful! It was another gallop, passing through Ningguo Hub, passing through several county and township highways and some villages. At noon, we arrived at Wanjia Village, the hometown where Qian Qingguan was located.

After entering Wanjia Village, the navigation-guided Shangshan Road was temporarily closed due to sudden rolling stones. There is no other route navigation search, only ask the villagers. An honest man enthusiastically showed us the way: "It's not far from the customs clearance of money. Turn around and turn east at the intersection ahead, about two kilometers, and you can only walk there. " As the old man pointed out, everyone had to stop and walk. The old man obviously has no concept of distance. The two kilometers he said made everyone very painful. We walked along the mountain road for a long time, but we still didn't see the trace of a thousand inclinations. A group of people began to whisper, how many roads are there? Ask a passing village woman again and say there are still 600 meters left. Looking forward, doesn't it feel like it? Sure enough, we walked about two kilometers, and there was still no trace. The villagers' sense of distance makes people laugh and cry, and everyone can feel their seriousness, not cheating for fun. Later, some people analyzed that this is probably the case in the mountains. When you look close, you go far. If you live in the mountains for a long time, you will lose your sense of distance.

It is almost one o'clock in the afternoon. Hungry, we found a roadside farmhouse and planned to fill our stomachs first. Well, the proprietress said, "You can't do business without buying food. After the epidemic, there are fewer tourists and you haven't done business for a long time. There may be a restaurant 600 meters ahead. " Ah! 600 meters again, everyone is stupid. If you continue to go forward, you still have to walk a long way with the villagers' sense of distance, and you may not be able to eat a meal, because the proprietress said it is possible to open a business. Everyone didn't want to go again, so they discussed with the proprietress to have a vegetarian meal. There are vegetarian dishes in front of and behind the house. If you feel vegetarian, kill another chicken. There are many pheasants running in the mountains. Hello, the proprietress said, "My husband is out collecting pecans, and the restaurant is closed." Oh, it is really closed. It seems that under the influence of the epidemic, tourism and catering are not easy to do, so we can only suffocate and go home in the dead of winter! At this time, everyone lost interest. "Hey, let's go home!"

When I went back to my hometown for lunch, it was already 2: 30 in the afternoon, and the itinerary was disrupted, so I had to adjust the route. We diverted to Tian Yao Village in Dalong Village and entered the Black Hole Waterfall in the network celebrities, which is called Jiuzhaigou in the south of the Yangtze River in recent years. This is a bluff place where donkey friends gather, and the scenery is impeccable. If you want to describe it, the word is "beauty".

Walking into the deep and quiet black hole canyon, I crawled with my hands and feet in the pebble pile, my heart hanging in my throat. I remind my lover from time to time and tell myself, "Be careful, you hurt your ankle awkwardly." Because there is no road at all, walking between rocks is totally based on discrimination. It's really hard to climb. You should stop to catch your breath and see the scenery from time to time. The stream was gurgling just now. When I turned around, the waterfall was in the air. Here, I walk gently, without taking a few steps. The cliff is steep, and the pace is different and exciting. Warning signs in the canyon suggest that risks are everywhere, so it is no wonder that donkey friends are flocking to it! To tell you the truth, I'm really at a loss. Fortunately, everyone is still rational. After walking for a while, they resolutely returned from the original road.

The sun sets in the west and the mountain wind rises gradually. Everyone was a little tired just now, and it was nearly five o'clock when they came out of the canyon one after another. Considering that it gets dark early in late autumn and it is dangerous to drive mountain roads at night, everyone decided to find a place to live first. However, many homestays closed down. After many twists and turns, we found a homestay next to the East China Rift Valley when the lights were on. These four three-story homestays, such as the common commercial and residential buildings in towns and villages, have nothing to do with the homestays that are deliberately creating novel effects at present, and are crowned to catch up with the homestays of newcomers. The building is simple and dull, with brick on the front, no painting on the side, and rough dry walls. People feel that the host has exhausted family resources and exhausted his best.

The host is a couple in their fifties. They were very excited to see us in the cold night wind. It seems that business is bad. Inside, the big B&B is empty, which is particularly deserted. The wind is getting tighter and tighter, and the coolness is coming. Someone opened the suitcase to get clothes to keep warm. The female shopkeeper greeted warmly and poured tea and water for everyone in time to check in. Sitting in the lobby on the first floor, drinking the hot tea that has just been filled, the coolness gradually disappears, and the expression is slowly relaxed. I have a little leisure, look at the lobby and the shopkeeper. This is not so much a hall as a restaurant, because there is a big dining table in a conspicuous place, which is simple because it is ugly at first glance. Look at the shopkeeper again, the man is wearing headphones to do things, and some are casual; Female mountaineers are simple in appearance, few in words and quick in doing things. After checking in and determining the side dishes for dinner, the owner and his wife went to work. We played cards or chatted, and entered a state of waiting for dinner.

The wind is getting stronger and the night is getting darker and darker. The faint lights outside the window are swaying in the trees, and the rustling leaves in the ears are coming and going. It's really cold in the mountains, which makes people feel puzzled. Wait slowly, and hunger comes in waves. "What time is it? When can I eat? " Someone muttered. Yes, the consumption in the afternoon was high, and the weather turned cold again. Everyone is in urgent need of energy. I can't help getting up to find out. In the kitchen, the female shopkeeper is busy, there are six or seven cooked dishes on the chopping board, and several dishes in the pot are burning up. "The wife of shop-owner, are you busy? How long will it take to serve? " "Well, my mouth won't burn. This will take some time. " "Why don't you eat while eating? Everyone is hungry. " "Ok, I'll do it as soon as possible." The shopkeeper promised without looking up. It seems that unexpected business has kept her busy enough. ...

Finally, the food came. In addition to fresh vegetarian dishes and refreshing stir-fry dishes, the old hen is stewed and there is a hot pan. Pour the white wine, everyone will be refreshed, their faces will be red, and the whole hall will be active. Although it is a home-cooked dish, it tastes good. In a hurry, everyone forgot the fatigue of wading through mountains and rivers, forgot the cold of the wind and fallen leaves, and immersed in the happiness you came. That night, listening to the mountain breeze outside the window, I gradually fell asleep with mellow wine. ...

The next morning, the sky was clear. There is not a trace of Wei Yun in the blue sky, as pure as a color card. The wind was really strong last night, and everything in the sky was blown away. What a sunny day! At breakfast, the female shopkeeper served us shredded noodles with green peppers and made Ningguo Baba, a local snack with dried vegetables and minced meat, which was quite exciting. It is also served with diced meat sauce, which tastes comparable to the famous Huangchi sauce in our region. I asked, "Is this sauce and Baba bought or made?" The shopkeeper said shyly, "Yes, everyone here does." "Oh, good workmanship!" Someone praised it from the heart. Indeed, the simple female shopkeeper showed her ability to everyone.

After breakfast, we talked with the shopkeeper, only to know that the Black Hole Canyon we went to yesterday was really a very dangerous place. A few days ago, someone got lost and trapped before being rescued. I remembered the situation in the canyon and couldn't help asking the male shopkeeper, "The mountain is really steep. How do villagers make a living? " The male shopkeeper sighed: "Alas, in addition to going out to work, the family depends on tea, bamboo, pecans and chestnuts. The pecans harvested now are the source of income. " The female shopkeeper also interjected, "The hotel is not open now, and no one has come. If the pecans we planted don't start to bear fruit, I don't know what to do with the debts borrowed by the hotel! " I didn't expect hickory to be so valued. No wonder the farmhouse owner also went out to collect pecans.

In view of the change of the itinerary, after discussion, everyone adjusted the route and decided to take the Anhui-Zhejiang Tianlu to Jiapeng Township to enjoy the colorful autumn colors of the Anhui-Zhejiang Tianlu and visit the unique features of Jiapeng Water Street. The Tianlu Road in Anhui and Zhejiang is also often heard and praised. I know it's a tourist attraction with excellent scenery, but I haven't had a chance. Now that I'm leaving, I can't help getting excited.

We set off again, and our party turned from the East China Rift Valley to the Antarctic Line, marching in the vast mountains. It is already late autumn, and the forest is gradually dyed and colorful. In the bright sunshine, red, orange, yellow and green complement each other, more colorful, and all kinds of frosty days compete for each other! Appreciating the dizzying scenery, my heart gradually rose slightly. Why not sing some poems? Therefore, when I take pictures, I am flat and even silent. The car passes through Jingzhou Township, and the scenery is more charming. Some people are excited. "I have been to Tianlu Road in Zhejiang, Anhui, and it is very beautiful." It's really great to look into the distance. Under the blue sky, the sun is shining and the vision is wide. A heavenly road winds up along the mountain, just like a gray ribbon floating in colorful autumn colors, extending to the towering and hazy mountain pass. In an instant, the poem that was still under consideration was inspired: "The layers of forest are gradually frosted, and the long road winds into nine days. There is also an autumn song, and the wind blows between the colorful leaves and the blue clouds. " However, how can a few poems describe this beautiful autumn scenery? Indeed, only one person can see Vientiane here!

After a while, I was intoxicated again! It is a hickory forest all over the mountains, and the blue sky sets off its unique color of strong contrast, an unusually pure yellow! The contrast between yellow and blue is particularly impressive. Many years ago, in the late autumn, my wife and I were attracted by the golden ginkgo trees on the roadside in front of the Tsinghua campus. Perfect purity made me feel the taste of autumn. At this time last year, we stopped in the depths of Taihang Mountain for the towering Yang Shulin in the wind, and the free and easy colors made me see that majestic temperament. In front of me, the autumn yellow in the depths of this mountain has a strong breath and is unusually simple, which makes me think and gradually move. What magnificent autumn colors! It, proudly in the mountains, is not afraid of wind and frost; Rooted in barren land, giving back in all directions. With a characteristic, it is a moment in autumn and a mellow season. Although ordinary, but calm, how can people not look back?

This plain is so close to the mountain! I remembered the old man and the village woman who showed me the way yesterday. Their sense of distance has indeed deviated, but on the other hand, people in the mountains have integrated their body and mind into the thick mountains. Although the environment is hard, they have cultivated a philosophical attitude that we can't understand. Distance is actually a state of mind. I feel close in my heart, although far away. This is the two sides of things, just like the pecan forest in front of us. Although it takes a lot of effort to plant it, once they survive, they can give back stubbornly and gratefully, bringing hope to life in the mountains.

This pure yellow is hard to come by! It's interesting to enjoy autumn scenery, but it's hard to say if you go deep into it. In this pecan harvest season, we know that the annual income of each pecan tree is around 200 yuan, so the villagers have to pay a lot of hard work. The exercise in the Black Hole Canyon has given me a deep understanding of the mountains, and the communication with the innkeeper has also broadened my knowledge. Let me ask myself: How much effort does it take to get the expected return on this thick soil where hickory takes root? I thought that it was not easy for the farmhouse owners to make a living because of the epidemic, and I thought of the busy situation of building a homestay and a debt-ridden boss couple on a cold night. I suddenly realized that they are not like hickory trees in the autumn wind. Stand proudly in difficulties and work hard for an ideal life!

The wheels rolled forward, and my thoughts were taken back at any time at a fast and slow speed. It's really interesting. This trip failed to visit the customs clearance, but the subsequent adjustment gave me a rare encounter, which made me appreciate the unique charm of the hickory forest and feel the real life in the depths of the mountains. This kind of plain yellow is so intriguing that it is undoubtedly an unforgettable windfall.

After staying at a scenic spot, everyone felt the charm of walnut leaves against the blue sky from many angles. Looking at everyone's serious expressions, I suddenly feel that we are similar to hickory trees. In fact, if the characteristics of hickory trees are anthropomorphic, aren't those who are struggling but good at self-reliance the same as hickory trees? Friends and relatives who know each other, strangers who pass by, strangers who have never crossed, or strangers who are far away from the world, but those who have been honed by life, still hold a pure and awe-inspiring heart, and have a beautiful life, are all hickory trees in the crowd! They are obscure and ordinary to you and me, but with a special quality, they are calm in life, proud of the city, proud of the countryside and proud of the people.

Appreciate the colorful autumn colors of Tianlu Road in Anhui and Zhejiang. At noon, we arrived in Gabon. It can be seen that there are still traces of unfinished business in everyone's happiness. Before lunch, the hotel owner brought us the new pecans listed this year. In the laughter of peeling pecans, the unique fragrance of pecans permeated the private room and my heart. ...