At songzanlin temple

The hillside separated by a lake from Kadan Songzanlin Temple is a dry yellow mud mountain with several Tibetan cultivated land scattered on it. One of the Tibetan women was pulling two yaks in front of her. Obviously, the yak was not so obedient. The woman struggled to pull the deviated yak back to the track, followed by her man. He held the swaying plow dragged by the yak and plowed the solid soil step by step ...

Shangri-La in early April was full of yellow eyes, but it was still autumn, and the people who cultivated here had just plowed the land of highland barley.

in the northwest of the mountain, there is a white pagoda for Tibetans to pray, with colorful prayer flags, on which are written scriptures. It is said that every time the wind blows, the prayer flags are turned, it is to express a wish to the God in heaven.

"Do you think they really believe that God will let them live a good life?" Looking at the prayer flags turning all over the sky, I asked, "They have worked hard, and this life will never change year after year."

"I don't believe it," said Lin Tong. "When you look at tourists dressed in splendor coming here, everyone's heart will pass by with resentment. Therefore, they also started to play tricks on tourists, and you can see all over the street ... "

Lin Tongxue took me to talk with a Tibetan aunt, while another Tibetan aunt who was farming in another field called us over, chatted for a few words and went straight to the point, asking if we needed a Tibetan home visit and a trip to Napahai. We immediately understood that she knew how to make money in this place, just like people all over the street. We thought that we would say something different from the mouth of the peasant woman who cultivated the land. This confirms what Lin said.

After we politely said goodbye to the peasant woman, we entered the Gadan Songzanlin Temple, a Tibetan Buddhist temple called Little Potala Palace, which is quite spectacular from a distance, but there will be some gaps in the near future.

The classmate from Kunming said that if you are not very interested in Buddhism, all you see here are rotten mud houses. Indeed, it is not as magnificent as we imagined. Many walls burst out with thick or thin cracks, and some places are still under repair and construction, and the environment is a bit chaotic.

After entering the temple, I caught up with the explanation of the tour guide of the Buddhist temple. The tour guide was short but stout, with red and black skin, and was a typical Tibetan on the plateau. He explained this mysterious and tenacious nation to the passengers around him in a hoarse and dry voice. During his explanation, some people listened carefully, while others walked away impatiently.

He took everyone to the center of the ladder, where the view was the widest, and showed them the red forest directly ahead, where there was a celestial burial platform.

Every time I heard the word "celestial burial" before, I felt a chilling feeling-it was always horrible and gloomy to be eaten by vultures after autopsy.

"This is called corpse dumping, not celestial burial!" The tour guide said a little bitterly. He knows that this is a misunderstanding that many people are buried in the Tibetan sky. In his eyes, the ceremony is not important, but its connotation. In Tibetan Buddhism, returning to nature after death is the destination of human beings.

His eyes always show his devotion to his own nation and religion. He refused to let the tourists go ahead, saying, "I took you, not you took me." He asked the tourists to take pictures of the eight treasures in sequence, instead of patting them east and west, and to worship the Buddha clockwise according to the Tibetan tradition of turning the scriptures.

When we walk into the temple, it is said that the oxygen content is only one third of that outside, which is likely to cause altitude sickness. Our breathing becomes slow, our hands are folded, and we take steps slowly clockwise. Everything seems extremely quiet and our hearts gradually become clear. The smell of Tibetan incense lingers, the Buddha statue is placed in the center of the temple, the butter lamp that is blessed shines golden, and the wall is full of "Thangka" painted with various forms of Buddha and gods (Thangka is a painting form in Tibetan culture), which is dazzling but awe-inspiring.

"Tibetan Buddhism is different from Buddhism in the mainland. There is no rule about the way you worship Buddha. You can burn incense, bend over with your hands folded, or worship Buddha like a Tibetan." The tour guide said, "Also, don't be too deliberate and utilitarian when worshipping Buddha. Many people in the mainland go to Buddhist temples to worship Buddha in order to seek wealth and children, but in the view of Tibetan Buddhism, this is a deal with Buddha and is not approved. "

"If they worship Buddha without utilitarian heart, there is no reason why their wishes cannot be realized and they no longer believe in Buddha?" I watched Lin Tong learn. I am used to looking at the world with a utilitarian heart, and sometimes I find that the world is not like this.

Looking at the distant mountains, the black-haired yak has gone, and the farmers are still there. Most of the farmers are women. They bend over and hoe the ground, as small as stones.

This place has been invaded by tourists too much, and the locals also know how to make money from tourists, such as organizing chartered buses to visit tourist attractions. However, the soliciting people here are much more simple than those in Lijiang, Dali. They will wait for tourists at the gate of the passenger station and timidly hand over a chartered business card. It is of course good for you to accept it. If you don't accept it, they will not pester you, and some will say sorry. On Shangri-La Avenue, the inns, hotels and restaurants we met were not owned by locals, but locals only drove taxis or vans to solicit customers. Who will make the most money, just watch carefully. Even if they had a better way to earn money, they didn't give up their roots. The tiller turned his back to the sky, raked up the soil, sowed highland barley, shepherds and cattle and horses, walked in the morning dew, and drank the clear spring in the mountains ...

Lin Tongxue said that the "Shangri-La" mentioned by everyone was only the scenic spot of Shangri-La, not including the place where people lived here.

We look at the temple again. The outer wall is shabby, but the inside is resplendent and magnificent, and we haven't slackened off at all. I don't know that it will cost a lot of manpower and material resources to build such a Buddhist temple on the plateau mountain.

Western jackdaw, with a red mouth and black hair, fluttered his wings in the spring rain, gave out a series of crisp cries in the cold wind, and then got into the eaves of the monk's room.

The voice of the tour guide is still ringing in my ears, "Tibetan Buddhism values a person's inner purity, not utilitarian secularism. Tibetans worship Buddha for their inner purity. In the eyes of celestial burial masters, the most beautiful girl is a skeleton, and in the eyes of yaks, the most beautiful Gesanghua is a hay. Only inner purity is eternal. "

my classmate Lin and I went to worship temple by temple, turning clockwise. Colored prayer flags are blown by the wind to recite scriptures to heaven again and again ...

Shangri-La, which means "the sun and the moon in your heart", means the place where your heart is pure.