Is Lu Xun's "half drunk" scandal in the restaurant the beginning of his dispute with Hu Shi?

During his stay in Beijing, Lu Xun visited almost all the famous restaurants in Beijing, and the famous "Eight Buildings" and "Eight Mansions" left his footprints more or less. This indissoluble bond with northern cuisine made him forget about northern cuisine after leaving Beijing.

At that time, Lu Xun lived in the west side of Beijing and had dinner nearby. He often goes to Tongheju, one of the eight famous houses in Beijing, to manage Shandong cuisine. Its famous dishes include fried pork sausage, nine-turn pork sausage and hollow balls. Even its famous dish, fried fish. Lu Xun likes shrimp balls here best, because this dish belongs to Shaoxing flavor and is a new dish introduced by northern restaurants during the integration of North and South. In addition, Lu Xun likes to bake steamed bread here, that is, brush a layer of oil on the steamed bread before baking it.

Now Beijing pays attention to "oriental diet". At that time, Lu Xun also ate a lot of delicious food in Dongcheng, but because he worked in Xicheng, he went to fewer places. According to the diary, the famous restaurant is Dongxing Building. Lu Xun and Hu Shi had two meals in the East, both in the East Building. Once Hu Shi invited Lu Xun, once Yu Dafu invited Lu Xun and Hu Shi. Lu Xun's Diary on February 27th 1932: "Hu Shizhi went to the Ministry in the afternoon, went to Dong 'an Market in the evening, and Dong Xing Lou recruited Yu Dafu. Half the wine has been retired. " It seems that this unpleasant food may be one of the beginning of the debate between Hu and Lu.

Lu Xun didn't eat a good meal, and Yu Dafu chose Dongxing Building as authentic. This building was opened on 1903. Originally located in Dong 'anmen Street in Beijing, 1944 closed down. 1982 Dongzhimen Inner Street resumed business. It was one of the "Eight Great Buildings" in Beijing in the early years of the Republic of China. Lu Xun has been to most of these buildings. Although each building has repeated dishes, each one has its own characteristics. For example, sauce chicken, Lu Xun and Hu Shi all like it, and Dongxinglou's dish is the best. It is said that the East Building was opened by a eunuch named He in the Qing Palace. He combs his hair, so there are many chefs in the palace, such as fried chicken in sauce, bear's paw in casserole, bird's nest and shark's fin.

Fried chicken with soy sauce is a kind of home-cooked dish that every family will cook, but court practice requires chicken to be as tender as tofu, full of color, flavor and flavor. This dish is delicious, and there are many stresses, such as frying in pig and replacing sweet noodle sauce with yellow sauce, but these two points are difficult to do in many restaurants now. I have always stressed that food culture should be innovative, but the foundation must be to preserve and inherit the tradition first, otherwise it will be a mess.

Hutchison Whampoa Restaurant in Xicheng is a frequent place for Lu Xun, which is basically equivalent to his work canteen, just across the road from the Ministry of Education where Lu Xun works. The food here is delicious and cheap. Lu Xun mentioned in his diary of1918 65438+1October 23rd: "Light snow. In the afternoon, my second brother came to the Ministry and invited Chen Shiceng and Qi Shoushan to Hutchison Whampoa. " In fact, Hutchison Whampoa is famous for selling beef and mutton. Lu Xun likes to eat clear soup and beef noodles here. Unfortunately, this kind of noodles is rarely eaten in Beijing now. We are not as good as Lu Xun.

Lu Xun often takes Chen Shiceng and Qi Shoushan to a small restaurant called Longhaixuan at the west end of Chang 'an Avenue for dinner at noon. Lu Xun likes to drink some wine at noon. The specialty of this family is soft fried liver tip, which is his favorite snack. This dish is sliced from the upper part of pig liver, marinated with salt, cooking wine and monosodium glutamate for a period of time, then hung with egg paste, and then fried with 70% to 80% hot peanuts. When the paste on the surface has just solidified, take it out, heat the oil in the pot until it boils, then put down the liver tip and fry it. The liver tip fried twice in this way is crisp outside and tender inside.

Lu Xun often goes to restaurants, including Nanwei Village and Yuchun Building in Huaiyang, Fujian Restaurant in Xiaotian, Henan Restaurant in Houde Building and Guangdong Restaurant in Qionglin. Lu Xun recorded in his diary in June1965438+September1KLOC-0/that "Hu was invited to drink in Nanweizhai that night, and nine people sat at the same table". At that time, Nanweizhai, Chunhua Building and Xingchunju were all famous hotels in Jiangsu. The specialties are sweet and sour yellow croaker and shrimp. Lu Xun also mentioned in his diary on September 27th, 19 12: "In the evening, I drank at the Quanyechang, and Dong, Qian Daosun and Xu all sat down, and the food was awkward and unpalatable. Those so-called red and bad ones are not beautiful. "

Lu Xun doesn't seem to be used to Fujian cuisine, and he rarely mentions "delicious food" that he doesn't like in his diary. In fact, a person's appetite is related to his personality. For example, a stubborn person always likes to eat what he wants. He eats something else. I don't know. People with an open mind have a wider range of food. Judging from the bad comments on food in Lu Xun's diary, he is not a truly enlightened person. When he is angry, he often begins to write articles to curse others.

Zhimei Mansion is also one of Lu Xun's favorite "Eight Buildings". Meilou once operated Gusu cuisine, which was opened in Qianlong period, closed at 1948 and reopened at 1980. Its specialties are fried chicken slices, fish fillets, fried pork belly and so on. This means that the chefs in the smart house are highly skilled, because the cooking skills such as sliding, scratching, frying and pulling test their cooking skills, and it is impossible without skills. On April 23rd, 1984, I collected a banquet menu of Meilou. One side of the menu is printed with signature dishes, and the other side is blank. When ordering food, according to different needs, someone will fill in the official script with a brush on the spot. At the top of the menu is printed the words "Zhimei Building Specialty", which was inscribed by Jeff after the reopening of 1980. In my collection, there are two court dishes on this menu. One is called' Prince and Dancer', which is made of chicken and squid. The other is called "spiny fish", which is fried with shredded fish, shredded pork, shredded mushrooms and shredded bamboo shoots. This dish is difficult to cook.