Portunus: 10,000 ways to eat, 10,000 times homesick.

The works that won the first prize of Sanyan Poetry in Wuhan University two years ago are still quite popular.

The crab is peeling my shell, and the notebook is writing about me.

All over the sky, I landed on maple leaves and snowflakes.

You're thinking about me.

Once, I thought that the yearning for scratching my heart and lungs would only be in love. I went to college, and after the first autumn when I didn't taste seafood, I read the sentence "crabs are peeling my shell" again, and my nose was full of homesickness.

Ningbo is near the sea. Every autumn is a good time to eat Portunus. In my opinion, everything in the "fresh area" of shopping malls and supermarkets is dead, and seafood is fresh only when it is brought to the vegetable market by vendors in the early hours of the morning. In the early years, I would get up early with my father and go to the market to pick crabs. Vendors in boots and gowns put a big basin in the morning and put on water pipes to replenish water for the struggling crabs in the basin. Picking crabs also has doorways, the color is black and green, the abdomen is prominent, and the heavy ones in the hands are generally fat goods. Dad couldn't cook at first, so he steamed the swimming crab in a steamer and put it on the table with a dish of soy sauce. However, I can eat a big bowl of rice with this dish, and I have never been tired of it for more than ten years.

Later, my father was afraid that I was tired of eating and knew more tricks. Crab with scallion oil is his first high-class dish. Cut the crab into four or five strands, and two or three pieces will be enough for one plate. After steaming, cut onions and garlic. When the swimming crab in the pot is steamed, put the minced onion and garlic in the yard, pour the delicious food, boil the hot oil in the pot and pour it on the crab immediately. For a time, the fragrance was overflowing. The most important thing about this dish is to set the table. Dad often talks about it, and it looks good, no less than the big dishes in the hotel.

I love to eat rice cakes, which are familiar to my family. Rice cakes and crabs together are more to my taste. A crab fried rice cake can make me full all day. The rice cake must be Cicheng rice cake, and the handmade rice cake is chewy enough to deserve a good crab. When it is dry, put a bowl of seaweed and egg soup, not to mention how beautiful it is. Crab is not a "dry" dish made by intelligence. There must be crab soup in the "wet dish". Fresh Portunus crab is served with tofu and vegetables, and fresh bones can be crispy with a bite. This is mom's specialty, and dad uses crab roe to PK. Steamed eggs are filled with swimming crabs, topped with sesame oil, delicious and fresh, and sometimes with a few clams. After a spoonful, the custard absorbs the sweetness of seafood, with rich taste and endless aftertaste.

When I grew up, I went to school and left home. Most of the takeaways in the canteen have no crabs, or I think they are not fresh. For a person who has eaten autumn seafood for more than ten years, it is really hard not to taste it in autumn. This year is just in time for the Portuguese to be fat, so save your energy and go home. Crabs are undoubtedly the first choice on the table. I was shocked when I went to the table. My dad has such a hot temper, but he still patiently picks out the crab meat bit by bit. While picking, he said to me, "You didn't say that crab rice was too expensive on the phone last time. Look at yourself, you can pick it out and eat it in your meal later. " My nose was sore for a while, and then it pressed down. I picked up half a bowl of crab meat and poured it into the rice, adding some delicious food. The homemade crab yellow bibimbap is really delicious.

When I set foot on the road away from home again, my father told me not to eat seafood outside. Seafood is not fresh. I talked to myself, and he was used to his critical eyes.

"Come back when you are free, and I'll keep it for you." I was moved by this, as if my father were going to say, "Go home if you are wronged outside, and my father is here."

I ate crab dinners many times and tried many ways, such as crab pot, braising in soy sauce, stir-frying and so on. Every time I eat, I always remember to break the crab in half and share it with my father. The crab is half human, and the home is always there. At the moment, I'm shelling crabs, and I'm homesick.