What about the people who opened a homestay in Yunnan 20 years ago?

Six homeowners in northwest Yunnan told you

-Wind, scenery and words-

This winter

Dear inn makes B&B full of charm again.

Find a beautiful place

Kaiminsu

Since then, I have lived a life of abstinence.

In Lugu Lake and Moganshan?

Before these scenic spots become popular,

Yunnan is the earliest popular place for homestays.

30 years

B&B is still beautiful.

But being the boss

But that's the truth.

What I've been through, I know the pros and cons.

1

Dali: Cheap hotels and pool parties in Nima

1984, Dali officially opened to the outside world. In the following years, Lijiang and Shangri-La also opened their doors to welcome guests.

In the 1980s, the domestic tourism market was not yet a climate, but European and American backpackers who lingered in Southeast Asia did not fear the mountains and rivers in Yunnan and came early. Therefore, whether it is the earliest Dali or the later northwest Yunnan, the accommodation places originally serving tourists are full of "foreign flavor". Opening a hotel to receive foreigners requires a foreign-related certificate. In the early days of opening up, it was difficult to run foreign-related hotels privately. Go to dali, a foreigner, has to live in the state-run Dali Second Guest House on the road to protect the country.

Nima is a native of Dali and became a member of the tourism service industry as early as 1986. Photography/Guan Haitong

At that time, foreigners lived in Huguo Road, where he opened a cafe called Tibetan Cafe. At that time, most of the drinks such as wine, coffee, cola and yogurt provided in the store were still rare in Dali, and there was even no purchase channel.

Every once in a while, Nima takes a foreign exchange coupon and takes a 18-hour bus to the Friendship Store in the provincial capital.

Soon after, hotels and cafes gradually appeared on the road to protect the country, and foreign tourists gathered. The road to protecting the country became what everyone later called "foreigner street".

After ten years of immersion in tourism, Nima was able to buy a piece of land on Wenxue Road and build the MCA Hotel.

Although MCA is called a hotel, it is more like an international youth hostel, with cheap and safe beds, a large public space for socializing, and a landmark swimming pool in the center of the hotel. However, unlike ordinary youth hostels, MCA also has artistic galleries. The full name of MCA is "Mekong River Basin Culture and Art Center".

From 65438 to 0995, Dali's travel market was still dominated by backpackers from other places, and the pioneers of "seeking wild gifts" in China were also eager to move.

In MCA, Nima is the most enthusiastic about holding pool parties. Figure/Nima for the picture

In 2000, the cafe in Nima moved to Renmin Road. Figure/Nima for the picture

At the pool party, everyone drinks, sings and chats, and when the fun comes, they plunge into the pool. People often miss MCA Hotel, mainly because of this unique pool party.

A young man playing guitar by the pool, his name may be Xu Wei; Holding a camera, it may be Xiaoquan, who took an image of Sanmao; Sometimes the artist Ye Yongqing clinks glasses with Nima. This pool party lasted until MCA was transformed into an expensive boutique hotel in 20 15. Famous writers who later became "new Dali people", such as writer Ye Fu Tujia, director Zhang Yang, etc., are frequent visitors to swimming pool parties.

2

Lijiang: Backpackers of Lao Xie and Wandou Youth Hostel

Lijiang Lao Xie and Nima are completely different: Nima defines herself as a simple scholar and artist; Lao Xie likes to knock on the door in his youth hotel alone with various tools.

In 2000, Lao Xie, a native of Moganshan, opened a veritable international youth hostel in Old Town of Lijiang, named Old Town of Lijiang International Youth Hostel. He has made the public space of youth travel very large and has enough communication space; Make a Haizi book by the running water behind the house to enhance its literary atmosphere; The ceiling is covered with a straw hat made in Yunnan, which blends into the local culture. The traveler asked him why he hung a hat on the ceiling, and he would say that it was not a hat, but a pot cover: "Eighteen eccentrics in Yunnan, take off your hat as a pot cover."

Early Lijiang travelers like to get together in YHA of Laoxie, and their status is similar to that of MCA of Nima.

Thirty years ago, Old Town of Lijiang was not so noisy. Photography/Guan Haitong

For most tourists, Old Town of Lijiang is famous for 1996 Lijiang earthquake. It is easy to say that Lijiang was "shaken by the earthquake". However, Naxi people are in a very special kind of grief. They renovated houses, widened main roads and replanted willows by the river.

Around 2000, Lijiang slowly recovered its vitality.

Mr. Xie's first YHA, and later Mr. Xie's car and horse shop in Lijiang is located in Mixi Lane, Old Town of Lijiang. There are more old houses there than Xinhua Street, the main road, with a winding path leading to a secluded spot, which has the pattern of Lijiang in the old days. In those years, in the YHA of Lao Xie, foreign backpackers also gathered, so some people called Mixi Lane the foreigner street in Lijiang.

Bending beans entered northwest Yunnan not much later than Lao Xie, but he always thought Lao Xie was his predecessor. Photography/Guan Haitong

1999, Lao Xie's hometown, Zhejiang, and the traveler Ben Dou traveled to Shangri-La along a now largely abandoned road. Shangri-La is still in Zhongdian. The last pass of this highway to Zhongdian is called frozen slope. Bend the beans over the frozen slope, and the alpine meadow in Xiaozhongdian jumps in front of you. Until today, Bend Bean still remembers the beauty at that time, and recites the Zhongdian scene described by Ms. Liu during the Republic of China:

Suddenly, I saw the vast dam, the cool breeze and bright moon, the sky and grass, the yellow flowers, the flocks of cattle and sheep, and the four curtains?

This trip made Ben Dou decide to give up his job in Hangzhou and come to Shangri-La. When Lao Xie of Lijiang opened YHA, he only found a facade in Shangri-La and opened a bar called "Zhongdian Traveler Club". Zhongdian Travelers Club is often imagined by Ben Dou as a free place. The streets are full of unlicensed cars, and those travelers who entered Shangri-La in the early days gathered here. In front of the bar, you should design a horse post, because Tibetan youth will ride horses and cows to the bar to taste.

When Qiao Yang, a time traveler, entered Zhongdian in 2002, Bendu had already opened a youth hostel next to Dukezong ancient city in Shangri-La.

Shangri-La is a Tibetan area with high altitude and low temperature.

Qiao Yang's deepest impression of curved beans is that he goes to the boiler room endlessly to boil hot water. Enjoying a watertight hot bath in YHA is a satisfying luxury experience, not to mention in Tibetan areas where the environment is still bad. Although the hotels in Bendou, Laoxie and Nima have different opening hours and styles, they all achieved the same goal, and they all started to serve backpackers at the beginning of local travel.

three

Shangri-La: Baima Duoji used the hotel to string up its beauty.

Qiao Yang is a good girl from Sichuan, but she likes to call herself Qiao Gongzi. Qiao Gongzi is also a pioneer of tourism service industry in northwest Yunnan.

In 2002, she was the first person to open a bar in Deqin Feilai Temple. The name of this bar is "seasonal migratory birds". In front of the bar is Meili Snow Mountain 13 Snow Peak. Feilai Temple soon became famous for its majestic snow-capped mountains and became a well-equipped distribution center. Qiao Gongzi hid in a more remote fog top and opened a seasonal migratory bird hotel.

Besides running a hotel, she also likes to wander around Shangri-La County. In addition to taking a hot bath in YHA, Bend Bean, she is also a frequent visitor to Songzan Holiday Hotel in Kena Village next to Songzanlin Temple in the suburbs.

Snow-covered Songzan Green Valley Map/Songzan Hotel

The employees of Songzan Hotel are mostly from local people. They themselves are the carrier of culture here/Songzan Hotel.

This hotel is not expensive. At first, it sold for 80 yuan a night, but later it doubled, and it was only 100. The owner of this shop is called Baima Duoji. He was a documentary director at that time. He was a participant when the BBC filmed South of the Cloud. The price of Songzan holiday is not high, the newly-built Tibetan architecture is solid and heavy, and the Tibetan furniture, carpets and Buddha statues collected by Baima Duoji are warm and textured. The boys are modest and enthusiastic, and Qiao Yang feels particularly good.

Also feeling good is Li Zekai, a little superman in the Hong Kong business community. He met Song Zan when he came to Zhongdian with many celebrities. He was particularly surprised that such a beautiful accommodation cost only 160 a night, and it was RMB. Little Superman even worried that his master's life was unsustainable. When he left, the group bought all the handicrafts in the shop to show their support.

This is the history of the famous Songzan series hotels.

Since Songzan holiday in 2000, Baima Duoji has been on this road for 17 years. Many people say that his Songzan hotel series is "the best in China"; In a sense, he is already one of the best in the domestic homestay industry. But people like Qiao Yang who liked Baima Duoji in the early days were not open-minded because of his vastness. Modesty means not hiding anything. I will enthusiastically show you everything about me.

Songzan Green Valley Tibetan Indoor Space Photography/Shen Weixin

In 2009, Qiao Yang is building her seasonal migratory bird hotel on the top of the fog, and Baima Duoji has built Songzan Hotel on the hillside not far from the top of the fog. That village is called Gujinong Village, a Tibetan village with only five or six families. As always, Baima Duoji built the house in a down-to-earth manner, chose the site and designed it himself, and then let the local craftsmen complete it one by one with traditional Tibetan architecture. Even on the construction site, Baima Duoji is completely open to Qiao Yang and curious people.

Qiao Yang had nothing to do, so he had to get into the construction site of Baima Duoji. When he saw any construction problems that he didn't understand, the workers even stopped to tell Qiao Yang in detail. After the completion of Songzan Shangri-La Loop Hotel, these wonderful mountain houses located in the countryside are distributed in every county in the Greater Shangri-La area.

Travelers are surprised to find that there are several mountain hotels hidden in every secluded rural corner of Diqing Prefecture. Bai Maduoji said, "No, I'm not building a store. I just hope to connect Shangri-La with these beautiful hotels and rediscover the beauty of Shangri-La. The place where I open a hotel may be Shangri-La's' navel of the earth', and perhaps I can discover the beautiful Shambhala through' navel of the earth' (the legendary utopia written in the novel "Lost Horizon"). " But obviously, Qiao Yang knows this "center of the earth" better than most residents.

Now he is the tourism product manager of Songzan. She stayed in Songzan's newly opened hotel in Lijiang for half a month, explaining to the guests how to enter the "navel of the earth" and the Shangri-La tourism world created by Baima Duoji through the connection between Songzan's hotel and Shanju.

In the remaining half month, she will return to her new foothold: her new home by the Erhai Lake in Dali.

four

Double Gallery: Jia Ming's spiritual sustenance here.

In a sense, Erhai Lake in Dali is a "rediscovery" of Dali tourism in recent years.

Erhai Double Corridor has now become one of the concentrated places of Dali B&B Figure/vision china

Nowadays, the excitement of the double corridors is like the lighting photography/Chen Liang this night.

When Jiaming lived in Shuanglang, Haiti in 2007, he was the first foreigner to stay in Shuanglang. Jia Ming at that time could not have imagined that in ten years, that is, five years after 20 12, more than 2,000 accommodation places would be squeezed by Erhai Lake.

Compared with Nima's predecessors who knew the destiny, Jiaming was only a post-80s generation.

Before living in Haiti, Jiaming bought a replica of the northern face jacket in Xiushui Street, Beijing, and traveled around in it. In those years, Jia Ming had no resume in the Jianghu, and there were younger brothers everywhere. Jiaming's younger brother later wanted to settle down and open YHA in Xi, so he went to YHA, Old Town of Lijiang, which "created a domestic youth travel model". After studying, Jia Ming went to Dali. This trip to Dali completely changed Jia Ming's lifestyle: he fell in love with Dali and stayed.

Jiaming's inn is called Haiti, which has some spiritual sustenance: Jiaming's friend Liping opened a highland on Cangshan Mountain, where there is no road. At that time, the double corridors were also inconvenient in transportation, pure and beautiful. One is on the high mountain, the other is on the edge of Erhai Lake, and the highland faces Haiti far away.

Later, the accommodation by Erhai Lake was called B&B. ..

The owner who opened a homestay in Shuanglang before 20 12, like Jiaming, described Shuanglang Town as a remote fishing village: it was a beautiful pastoral scenery. There is little arable land in Shuanglang, and the local Bai people make a living by fishing. They are poor, but they have a broad heart, faith and spiritual sustenance.

Some people just want to live in the double gallery, except those who like the double gallery and decide to stay here and open a homestay. Shanghai painter Shen Jianhua, famous director Zhang Yang, and early dancer Yang li Ping are all early life of Shuanglang.

20 12 Shen Jianhua, Yang li Ping and others published a rural picture book named "Double Corridor and Double Corridor". Zhuo Ma, a former media person, is one of the main contributors. 20 10 Zhuo Ma and her husband Red Dot also opened a homestay in Shuanglang. Zhuo Ma is also very willing to dedicate his professional skills and be responsible for a lot of editing and editing of the first and second issues of this album. Everyone carefully recorded the community ecology of Erhai Lake, leaving behind the present beauty.

This year happens to be the year when Shuanglang began to split: the capital is ready to move, and they think that the homestay by Erhai Lake may become a new hot spot for Dali tourism. So from 20 12, more and more real estate developers and investment bankers gave these early immigrants business cards.

The operators of some homestays near Erhai Lake are not pursuing a lifestyle, but engaging in a pure investment behavior.

In recent years, Erhai Lake has crowded into more than 2,000 homestays, and people began to classify people in Erhai Lake. People say that the owners of homestays by Erhai Lake are a group of middle-class urbanites. With poetic and distant feelings, they have set foot on Erhai Lake after fleeing the trend of going north to Guangzhou.

five

B&B's business is self-aware.

In the song "go to dali is not as good as going west", travelers flock to Erhai Lake. The house price here is high, but it is still hard to find a room. Dali has returned to the center of the top tourist distribution center because of the rise of Erhai Lake.

Erhai Lake looks a bit like "middle class" life. However, the definition of "middle class" makes the owners of homestays on the Erhai Lake disgusted, and there are many people. Yuan, the shopkeeper who woke up in Erhai Hotel, was quite disdainful of being a middle class. He said, "Where am I from? I have been an in-depth investigation reporter for more than ten years, with only 300,000 in my hand, and then patched together and opened a hotel with my partners. "

Jiaming's life in Haiti was completely closed on 20 16.

One Close Erhai B&B Photography/Chen Liang

During the ten years in Erhai Lake, Jiaming witnessed beautiful rural scenery and watched the quiet ancient town turn into a noisy construction site. He has had all the common problems of homestay people, and even had a lawsuit with the landlord. He has come back with the relevant departments. 2065438+06125 October, 16 The relevant departments issued an official document, saying that Haitian life "set up underground pipes to directly discharge sewage into Erhai Lake" and ordered it to be rectified. Half a month later, exhausted Jia Ming closed the door to life in Haiti and stopped the sewage treatment system that he spent hundreds of thousands of dollars to buy.

Yuan Xiao Bing lamented "the disillusionment of rural landscape". After the capital entered, the double corridors he regarded as "beautiful rural scenery" were no longer so pure. Farmers who charged high rents began to live a life of wine and meat after the outbreak of the epidemic, while villagers who suffered relatively low rents in the early days increased their rents for various reasons. The album "Double Gallery and Double Gallery", which records the primitive culture of this fishing village, has been discontinued for a long time, and there are more neon bars in Shuanglang Town.

All the voices and smiles of dogs and horses do not belong here, but they are in the ascendant.

After the B&B by Erhai Lake was closed, only local photography/Zhanglvtang was left here.

After 2065438+April 7, 2007, all the homestays along Erhai Lake stopped. The owner was not particularly worried at first, so he put a seal on the room, which read "Protect Erhai Lake and close it by itself". They all thought it might be to meet the temporary needs of the administrative department, but nearly half a year later, there seems to be no hope of reopening the B&B by Erhai Lake.

The contradiction in front of the owner of Erhai B&B is obviously not a difficult landlord. The rich income brought by the prosperity of Erhai residents disappeared for half a year. Yuan drove a brand-new land cruise ship and bought a house between mountains and rivers. When the inn is closed, all income will stop, but the mortgage and car loan will not be suspended because of the closure of Erhai Lake. This former media person who seems to live a middle-class life seems to have returned to the uneasy state of "pseudo-middle class". There are many operators in Erhai Bs who are more difficult than Yuan. No one knows when these B&Bs will open and suddenly close down collectively.

One day in August, the sunshine in Erhai Lake was as clear as ever. Those homestay owners who are still out of business are quietly drying sheets on the balcony. Some people say that this is a vision for the upcoming business. Some people say that this is their submission to the world.

Since 1984 Dali opened to the outside world, in the past 30 years, all kinds of travelers have washed away the dust on the road through one homestay after another and rushed to the next journey. The host cleaned the guest room and laid clean sheets to welcome the arrival of the next group of travelers.

You said it was romantic to own a homestay. Maybe the people who run it are very bitter and self-aware.

Wen Tuan Luan yuan

This article is selected from Authentic Scenery and B&B Times.

Editor Xiao Yi