What does "Bazhen" mean?

Bazhen is the earliest cooking method of eight precious foods. "The Rites of Zhou·Tianguan·Shanfu" records: "The king's gifts include six grains for food, six animals for meals, six pure drinks, one hundred and twenty items for shame. Eight items for treasures, and one hundred and twenty jars for sauces." . With one move of the king, there are ten cauldrons, and there are all kinds of things, so as to enjoy the food." The translation of this sentence is: the emperor eats six kinds of grains, uses six kinds of livestock, drinks six kinds of drinks, and has one hundred to drink. Twenty grades. There are eight kinds of delicacies and one hundred and twenty jars of sauces and vinegars. The emperor had three meals a day, using twelve tripods and twelve utensils for serving meat and vegetables. Music should be accompanied during meals to persuade the emperor to eat more. Here, the six grains refer to: Heyu (rice), broomcorn millet (yellow rice), Ji (millet), Liang (sorghum) wheat, and wild rice (wild rice). The six animals refer to: cattle, sheep, hogs, dogs, geese (geese), and fish. Liuqing refers to; water, pulp (mash, that is, thicker juice), Li (sweet wine), Liang (water wine), medicine (plum pulp), and elixir (gruel). There are also six animals: moose, deer, bear, deer, wild boar, and rabbit. Six birds: geese, quails, [yan birds], pheasants, doves, and pigeons. The so-called eight delicacies refer to Chun Nao, Chun Mu, Pao Dou, Pao Zhen, [hand side Yishou] Zhen, Zhen, Nao, Gan.

The translation of these eight delicacy cooking methods is——

Chun'ao: "Book of Rites Nei Principles" explains: "Chun'ao, fry the glutinous rice, add it to the upland rice Go up and fertilize it with anointing.” Soup is meat sauce. Cover the glutinous rice with meat sauce and pour in animal fat.

Chunmu: "Book of Rites Nei Principles" explains: "Chunmu, fry the glutinous rice, add it to the millet, ferment it with paste". It is similar to Chun Nao, except that Chun Mu pours the meat sauce on the rice. In fact, Chun'ao and Chunmu are today's rice bowls.

Pao Dolphin, Pao Zang (sheep): The word "Pao" originated from the cannon torture in the Yin Dynasty, which used charcoal to heat copper pillars to make them hot, and let the sinners stand on the hot pillars. Paolao is used for cooking, that is, roasting pigs and muttons on a high fire. "Book of Rites·NeiZe" explains: "With the cannon, take the dolphin as a general (should be a can - ewe), cut it with [Guili Dao], put the jujube into the belly, braid it with a jujube, and smear it with Be careful. Brush it, apply it all dry, break it, rub it, make it into rice powder (rice flea) and make it into an intoxicating drink. The ointment must be reduced. Pour a small cauldron of coriander into it and keep it from burning for three days and three nights, and then mix it with fermented glutinous rice wine. The method is to slaughter the piglets and fat sheep, remove the internal organs, stuff the dates into the stomach, tie them with straw ropes, apply them with clay and roast them in the fire. After baking the sticky mud, break off the dry mud and peel off the thin film on the surface. Then use rice flour to make a paste and apply it on the pigs and sheep. Then, put oil in the small cauldron to boil the pigs and sheep, put herbs in the cauldron, and put the small cauldron in the big cauldron filled with soup. The soup in the big cauldron cannot boil into the small cauldron. The fire continued for three days and nights, and the soup in the big cauldron and the oil in the small cauldron boiled together. Three days later, the pork and mutton are crispy and dipped in vinegar and meat sauce.

〔Change the hesitation into a handle〕Zhen: It is to take the tenderloin of cattle, sheep, pigs, deer, deer and other herbivorous animals, beat it repeatedly, remove the tendons, and pound it into minced meat. The word "渌 is replaced by a handle" has the same meaning as the word "卌". "Book of Rites·Nei Principles": "[Hesitation is replaced by a handle]. If you take the meat of cattle, sheep, elk, and stags, you must [moon ash]. Beat each thing as if it were the same as the cattle, turn it on its side, remove the bait, and cook it." "Take it out, remove the skin and soften the meat." This means that the tenderloin of these animals is pounded repeatedly, and then the membrane is removed after cooking, and then mixed with vinegar and meat sauce.

Ze: "Book of Rites·Nei Principles": "Ze, when taking beef, you must kill it freshly, cut it thinly, and cut it into pieces. Use fine wines, eat them in advance, and use rice wine to hold the wine. , [Youyi]. "Fresh beef, cut into thin slices with transverse grains, soaked in good wine for a day, mixed with meat sauce, plum pulp, and vinegar before eating. 〔酉义〕Plum pulp.

Ao: "Book of Rites·Nei Principles": "Beat it and remove it [replace the right side with the skin], braid it, cloth it with beef, sprinkle cinnamon and ginger crumbs on top and salt it, dry it and eat it It's the same with sheep. If you want to moisten the meat, use it to fry the meat. If you want to dry the meat, pound it and eat it. Pound it, remove the fascia, spread it on a mat made of reed, sprinkle ginger and cinnamon on it, soak it with salt and dry it in the sun before eating. If you want to eat it juicy, moisten it with water and add meat sauce to fry it. If you want to eat dried meat, pound it until soft and then eat it, similar to today's beef jerky.

Liver [the force of the word labor is replaced by the moon]: "Take the liver of a dog, use it [the force of the word labor is replaced by the moon], and use moxibustion [replace the word reef with the word fire] Bian] Its [the force of the word labor is replaced by the moon], not polygonum. "Take a dog liver, cover it with dog net oil, and put it on the fire to test.

[The force of the word labor is replaced by the moon], which is net oil. Wait for the wet oil to dry and then eat it without cutting it. Polygonum, water polygonum, was used as food at that time. "Take the rice and irrigate it with [rice fleas], cut into small pieces the wolf [yue Shu] paste, and mix it with the rice to make an elixir." Mix the rice flour with water, add small pieces of wolf breast fat, and cook it into a thick porridge.

In addition to these eight delicacies, there is another cooking method: grits. "Book of Rites Nei Principles" explains: "For the grits, take the meat of cattle, sheep and pigs and mix them into three parts. Cut them into small pieces and mix them with rice. Use two pieces of rice and one piece of meat together as bait and fry them." Divide the cattle, sheep and pork into three equal parts. Mix two parts of rice flour and one part into pancakes and fry them in oil. Similar to today’s meatloaf.

In the time of Emperor Zhou, it was important for the emperor to eat fat. "Book of Songs": "Boshuofei [Yuedun]" [Yuedun] is a fat pig. At that time, both sacrifices and food had to be made from fat pigs and sheep. The character "豕" in oracle bone inscriptions represents the castration of a male pig. The ancients invented the castration method long ago to make pork fat. In the Zhou Dynasty, pigs began to be dismembered and then eaten. The pigs were roughly divided into seven parts called "qi-ti" and subdivided into twenty-one parts called "tijie". Each ministry is given a name. For example, [the truncated 鹹 is replaced by meat] (large piece of meat), 朊 (meat on both sides), [月米] (tenderloin), [月翕] (Jinloin). Take pigs as an example. Among the various parts of pigs at that time, the most precious one was the very fat "neck", which is the fat hanging down from the pig's neck. Today it is called "trash meat". "Book of Jin·Xie Hunzhuan" records: "Emperor Yuan started to build a town and was in a state of embarrassment for both public and private affairs. Every time he got a dolphin, he thought it was a precious meal. The pigeon on his neck was so beautiful that he often recommended it to the emperor. The people in the group did not dare to eat it, so they called "Forbidden crab". "At that time, Xiang crab was offered to the emperor, and the ministers did not dare to eat it, so it was called "forbidden crab".

At that time, the ancients made good use of dates, chestnuts, jelly and honey, as well as fats and oils, which were good for frying and roasting, and for making soups. For its soup, beef is served with tender bean sprouts, mutton is served with celery, and pork is served with wisteria. Easy to use with various sauces. Use ant egg sauce for dried meat slices, rabbit meat sauce for dried meat porridge, fish meat sauce for cooked elk meat slices, mustard sauce for fish fillets, snail meat sauce for glutinous rice, dog meat sauce for rice and rice, and fish sauce for roasted fish. Caviar, meat sauce for roast chicken, there are 120 kinds of sauces.

At that time, the ancients used six, six grains, six livestock, six beasts, and six birds. He also warned that six kinds of things are poisonous and fasting. These six kinds of animals are: cows that bark at night and have a smelly body, sheep with messy hair and a foul smell, pigs that are night blind and have a fishy smell, poultry with dry feathers and a hoarse voice, and dogs with hairless tails and black backs. A sick horse with ulcers on its legs.

Also warned: "Do not eat young turtles. Remove the intestines of wolves, remove the kidneys of dogs, remove the backbone of cats (remove the spine of bobcats), remove the tail of rabbits (the tail end of the spine), remove the heads of foxes, and remove the heads of dolphins. Remove the brains, remove the bones (the bones next to the fish eyes) from the fish, and remove the ugly bones (the orifices) from the turtles. "If the young tail is not full, don't eat Shuyancui, swan, owl fat, Shufucui, chicken liver, wild goose kidney, bustard ao, etc." "Deer stomach." The tail of a small bird less than a handful, the tail of a goose and duck, the thin side meat of a swan and an owl, the liver of a chicken, the kidney of a wild goose, the spleen gland of a bustard (a bird larger than a wild goose), the stomach of a deer. , cannot be eaten.

The eight delicacies of the Zhou Dynasty were originally the cooking methods of eight kinds of delicacies, and later became synonymous with precious foods. "The Chronicles of the Three Kingdoms·Wei Wei·Ji Biography" states: "The food must have the taste of the eight delicacies." "Bao Canjun has a poem: "The eight treasures are carved and decorated, and the delicacies are piled high and low." As the years go by, the content of the eight treasures has been continuously enriched. In Tang poems, Du Fu has the following lines: "The peak of the purple camel emerges from the green cauldron, and the water essence is coiled on the scales." There are already two dishes of camel hump and white fish in the kitchen Bazhen, and aquatic products and mountain products are included in the Bazhen. In the Yuan Dynasty, historical data provide that two new Bazhen appeared that were completely different from the Bazhen of the Zhou Dynasty. According to the "History of Cuisine" written by an unknown person in the Yuan Dynasty, one of the two new eight delicacies is: dragon liver, phoenix marrow, leopard fetus, carp tail, owl roast, orang lip, bear paw, and cheese cicada. Among them, dragon liver, Liu Ruoyu's "History of the Ming Palace·Huo Ji" records that dragon eggs were eaten in the Ming Palace in October, which were actually white stallion eggs. By analogy, the dragon liver is probably the liver of a white horse. Owl is an owl. Crispy cheese cicada, "made of mutton fat". "Liu Yan Zhai Notes": "It is the modern snail cake. Its shape is not similar to the original snail, but resembles the belly of a cicada." It is a dairy product similar to the belly of a cicada. The other eight delicacies are: Daigo (high-grade butter), Lukang (the neck of a small deer), wild camel hooves, deer lips, milk elk (little elk), swan roast, purple jade paste, and xuanyu paste (the jade paste is now horse breasts).

During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, there were eight delicacies from land and water: sea cucumber, shark's fin, fish bones, fish maw, bird's nest, bear paw, deer sinew, and clam mold. There are eight treasures in the mountain: bear paw, deer tail, elephant trunk (some say rhinoceros trunk), hump, civet cat, leopard fetus, lion breast, and macaque head.

There are eight delicacies in the water: shark fin, fish lips, sea cucumber, abalone, skirt, scallops, crispy fish bones, and toads. Later, it was divided into upper, middle and lower, and there were two sets of sayings about the upper, middle and lower eight treasures.

The upper eight treasures: A: orangutan lip, hump, monkey head, bear paw, bird's nest, duck breast, deer sinew, and yellow lip gum. B: Orangutan lip, bird's nest, hump, bear paw, leopard fetus, deer sinew, toad, hericium.

The eight treasures in the middle: A: Shark's fin, white fungus, civet cat, tripe, anchovy, toad, fish lip, skirt. B: Shark's fin, fish bone, arowana intestine, black ginseng, tripe, abalone, Jiang Yaozhu, abalone.

The next eight delicacies: A: sea cucumber, asparagus, mushrooms, Sichuan bamboo shoots, red scale fish, Jiang Yaozhu, oyster yolk, mullet eggs. B: Sichuan bamboo shoots, white fungus, mushroom, hericium, skirt, fish lips, mullet eggs, civet.

The name Bazhen was later used more and more badly.

There is a mention of "Xiao Bazhen" in "Yangzhou Hua Fang Lu": "Small Bazhen are sold in hotels, nunneries and the like without fireworks. For example, in spring and summer, swallow bamboo shoots and tooth bamboo shoots are sold. "

"There is an eight-delicacy row on the dam. The eight delicacies include water chestnut, lotus root, taro, persimmon, shrimp, crab, chelicerate and radish."

Vegetables can also be included in the eight delicacies. . "Yangzhou Sanji" records the "Eight Treasures of Early Summer": "When the popular customs are popular, when the Yangzhou flowers are flying, anchovies, cherries, bamboo shoots, amaranth, broad beans, garlic sprouts, wheat kernels, and Yanghua radish are listed as the Eight Treasures of early summer."

Eight treasures classified into four seasons throughout the year.

There is also "Bazhen Soup". In the Peking Opera "Four Jinshi", Sun Shulin is good at making Bazhen soup. This soup is a Shanxi recipe. It is said to be a longevity soup prepared by Master Fu Qing to honor his mother. His mother took this soup and lived to be eighty-four. Later, his method was passed down to the people of the Ga family, who opened "Qingheyuan" shop in Taiyuan to specialize in this soup. This soup is stewed with mutton, mutton fat oil, yam, lotus root, simmered noodles (steamed wheat flour), astragalus, rice wine, and rice wine lees juice. The mutton, yam, and lotus root are all rotten and crispy like gruel, with the aroma of wine and wheat. Do not use salt when drinking this kind of soup, and do not add soy sauce or vinegar when eating it. You can only drink it lightly. Old Shanxi people like to drink this soup in March in winter, just like old Beijing people like to drink bean juice. This soup suppresses yin and nourishes yang, nourishes qi and blood, fights cold and relieves asthma. It ranks first among the top ten famous foods of Jin people.