Steamed noodles of Shanxi pasta

There are many kinds of steamed pasta in Shanxi, and corn flour was the most common staple food in the past. In the wheat producing areas around Jinzhong in southern Shanxi, steamed bread is eaten more. Steamed bread is divided into flower rolls, knife-cut steamed bread, round steamed bread, pomegranate steamed bread, jujube steamed bread, malt steamed bread and hard-faced steamed bread. Cereal steamed food includes roasted old man's oat noodles in Lvliang, Jinzhong, northern Shaanxi; There are sorghum noodle fish in Wutai, Xinzhou, as well as steamed buns, steamed buns and so on. Scissors noodles are a kind of Han pasta snack in Shanxi Province. It is named after the scissors used to make noodle tools, and it is also called caviar cutting because the cut noodles are fish-shaped. Its manufacturing method originated in the late Sui Dynasty. According to folklore, Li Shimin, the son of Taiyuan, learned martial arts, recruited talents and sought justice. Wu Shihuo visited him. At noon, Li Shimin stayed in the study for dinner. Stone who was cutting clothes didn't have time to prepare meals, so he carefully cut the dough with scissors and cooked it before serving it on the table. Wu Shihuo sighed: This troubled time is rough; If the face looks like the world, cut it quickly. Subsequently, Li Shimin and his son went to Jinyang, the hometown of Datang, and captured Chang 'an with the trend of "cutting noodles" to unify the mountains and rivers. Later, when Du Fu was in the buffer region, he wrote a poem "How to cut scissors quickly in Bingzhou and cut half the river in Wusong". On the one hand, Wang Zai painted a paper-cut landscape. On the other hand, he thought that Taizong Wu Ying hoped to unify the state affairs.

Scissors have the feelings of mutual help between husband and wife, and the friendship of knowing each other and seeking jobs, while Taiyuan people love noodles and have the benefits of scissors, which provides a material and cultural foundation for the generations of scissors, so the inheritance of Taiyuan can last for thousands of years. Taiyuan was called Bingzhou in ancient times, and its scissors were called "Bingzhou scissors" or "double knives", which was even more famous in the Jin Dynasty. In Song of Difficult Knife, Tang Lulun praised: "Bingzhou is difficult to win with one sword, and every time it is done, if there is God's help." In the Song Dynasty, there was a place in Taiyuan where scissors were concentrated. In Jiang Kui's "Long Pavilion Complains Slow", it is said that "the horizontal knife is empty, and it is difficult to cut off the sorrow". In the Yuan Dynasty, Yang Weizhen also wrote a poem "I want to cut my hand and cut a pair of glass cigarettes." In the Ming Dynasty, the knives and scissors of Jinfudian were even more famous, and all major commercial ports and docks in the country had franchised firms. In the Qing Dynasty, Zhao Yi also said that "his pen is as sharp as a razor". Now there are scissors Gu Xiang in the streets of Taiyuan, which is famous for its elegance in the past.

Since the Tang Dynasty, Taiyuan has had such quick scissors, and the noodles cut out are like whitebait in Wusong River, which are not only deeply loved by the Han people, but also become the royal noodles of past dynasties. Zi Jin records: "Liu Gongquan used windbreak yarn to write Tales of Longcheng and Famous Works of Eight Dynasties, and counted them in brocade samples. The royal scissors and moon soup above are all public rights. " It can be seen that the scissors noodles in the Tang Dynasty have become royal noodles. The Grand View of Imperial Meals in China in Past Dynasties also records that the royal noodle products in Ming Dynasty have scissors noodles. In Taiyuan in the Qing Dynasty, scissors noodles were mostly sold at market stalls. In Qixian County, it is said that Qiao Guifa went to the west exit and was not at home all the year round. His wife misses her husband and eats noodles with scissors every noon, which means that she has cut off her feelings for her husband forever. At that time, it was a bit like "a knife is empty, and sorrow is difficult to cut." During the Republic of China, Xinmeiyuan, Taoyuan Chun, Quanjinhao and Zheng Da restaurants in Taiyuan all used scissors noodles as Shanxi's colorful pasta, sliced noodles with jade hands and boiled soup with Taiwan Province mushrooms, which were very delicious.

Nowadays, in hotels, the scissors noodles are made in the lobby, which can kill two birds with one stone, represented by famous shops such as Mianlaixiang and Jinyunlou. Add a little salt to the surface of the scissors to make it a little harder. Soup is divided into different shades, prepared in advance, then boiled over high fire, and noodles are cut. When cutting, the left hand holds the face and the right hand holds the cut, and the face cannot be cut off. The sound is like the sound of magpies returning to their nests, and the shape is like a whitebait jumping into the water. Master can cut more than 200 pieces per minute, which is dizzying. When cooking, it's a little boring. Put a bowl on the table, pay attention to the collocation of four dishes and four dishes, and enjoy it with the interest of "how to cut scissors quickly in Bingzhou and cut half a river in Wusong". The food is endless. Scissors noodles are also used as performing arts, and the noodles are fragrant and integrated into the Han folk art. In the created stilt series of pasta performances, there are stilt scissors noodles. In the dance, the beautiful girl stands on stilts, slim and graceful, holding the noodles and cutting them. The fish falls in the sky, such as the spring breeze blowing willows and the autumn waterfall stirring snow, and a poetic picture comes into view. Lehe, called "River Leak" in ancient times, is an ancient and unique traditional noodle soup in northern China, especially in Shaanxi. In the 24th time of China's classic "The Water Margin", Ximen Qing asked Wang Po: "What are the partitions selling?" Wang Po said: "His family sells steamed river leakage, which is very spicy, very mild and very spicy." I don't know what "big spicy crisp" is. "He Lou Zi" should be the ancient name of "He Lao". Due to the variation of language, some people write "Harmony" today. This kind of pasta can be boiled or steamed, and can be seasoned with spicy food. In Shanxi, from south to north, there are urban and rural markets for sale all year round, and street stalls abound. Especially among the people, almost every household has to eat it all year round. Even Emperor Qianlong especially likes to eat music and music, and people who specialize in making music and music enter the palace, so music and music enter the palace every year as a tribute.

Youren Xu, a poet in the Yuan Dynasty, once wrote down his feelings of eating music and harmony: "The flowers on the slope are all white, and the frost is lighter and yellower. Put the bran on the pestle and return to the ink, and the teeth are fragrant with snow. Jade leaves are thin and silver lines are long. The Lantern Festival shop is on fire, and Yan Mo laughs at Nanxiang. " In the poem, the "leaked silver thread" refers to music and harmony. Li Shizhen in Ming Dynasty said in Compendium of Materia Medica: "Buckwheat is ground into flour from north to south. Make pancakes, garlic paste, or soup cakes, which are often eaten by rivers and slippery as powder. " In the Qing Dynasty, there were more records about music and harmony, such as documents of the Qing Dynasty, such as Records of Heilongjiang and Examination of the Names of Erya Valley. , all of which describe the "river leakage" in detail. In the Qing Dynasty, it was also recorded in the records of Yangqu County, Shanxi Province in detail: "Residents nearby called all kinds of pasta" Helou "buckwheat noodles." He also quoted a sentence from Fu Qingzhu: "The so-called' speed law and neglect the tower' is also".

Shanxi is not only the origin of wheat, but also the origin of buckwheat and sorghum, and its cultivation and consumption have a long history. Therefore, Lehe preparation has been widely used since ancient times. Lehe is mostly made of wheat flour, but it is also made of buckwheat flour or other miscellaneous grains flour. Jinnan is the producing area of wheat, which is generally pressed with wheat flour, especially the pork noodles of Quwo Jiaoliqiao, which are famous both inside and outside the province. In Yanbei area, it is made of buckwheat flour, especially in Zuoyun and Youyu areas. People like this kind of pasta best. For example, a folk song says, "Buckwheat music and mutton and fish soup go hand in hand with death ..." Sanjin people also give eating music a beautiful symbol because it is soft and long. The day before the wedding in Yanbei and Lvliang Mountain, the bride and groom also want to eat buckwheat noodles. Especially on New Year's Eve every year, every household should eat buckwheat noodles to pray for family harmony and prosperity.

In cities and rural areas of Shaanxi, there are many special tools for pressing music and harmony, which are called "music and bed". The small one is less than two feet long, and the big one can span the largest iron pot. The bed is made of thick and curved wood or iron. Dig a round hole between the front and rear legs, pad an iron plate with small holes under it, and add a wooden stick or iron bar parallel to the bed surface. Put the Helan bed on the pot, when the water boils, fill the round hole with the kneaded dough, then put the core in the hole, pull the wooden stick by hand and press it hard, and the noodles will fall into the pot from the small hole. After the noodles are cooked, they will be fished into a bowl and poured with various marinades.