Who can introduce me to some specific styles of ancient Tang Dynasty dresses?

Dress refers to the traditional dress of women in the Tang Dynasty, including short sleeves or shirts, long skirts, silk and half-arms. Under the influence of foreign costumes, Tang Nv's dress retained its original shape, so it became the most exciting and moving accessory costume in the Tang Dynasty and even in the whole history of China. Land, usually only grows to the waist, very short, which is the characteristic of women's wear in Tang Dynasty. Shirts like this one grow to the hips or longer. The face. Shirts and other coats are the uniforms of all walks of life. Yuan Zhen's poem "Lotus Silk Shirt and Lotus Silk Skirt", Zhang You's poem "Where to Take Yuanyang Embroidery, Who Will Pay for Peacock Sweater", and Ouyang Jiong's poem "Tea Girl Leads Her". Judging from these poems, women in the Tang Dynasty were obsessed with life. Shirts are very common, like red, light red or light ochre, light green and other colors, plus "Luoshan embroidered leaves Ye Yue, Jinfeng Silver Goose each" gold and silver embroidery, the appearance is even more beautiful. The neckline of jackets often changes, and the collar types of jackets are: round neck. Square collar. Straight collar and chicken heart collar. In the prosperous Tang Dynasty, there was a bare collar, that is, the neckline was very low. In the early days, the court only gave concubines. Kabuki became popular among kabuki actors, and later even rich girls favored it. Judging from the stone carvings at the tomb entrance in the Tang Dynasty and a large number of pottery female figurines, naked-necked women's clothing was popular all over Lebanon, so a large number of naked-necked women's clothing appeared in the artistic image at that time. Skirts, women in the Tang Dynasty all wore skirts. This was a form of petticoat that women attached great importance to at that time. Skirt fabrics are mostly silk fabrics, but there are many differences in materials, usually one more piece is better. The waist of the skirt can be raised, and part of it can cover the chest. The lower body only wears a tube top and a gauze shirt, so that the skin of the upper body is faintly exposed. For example, Zhou Fang's "Picture of a Lady" and Zhou Juan's "I'm used to wearing a shirt and half-naked chest" and other poems. The painting depicts this kind of dress, which is the boldest of the ancient women's dresses in China, enough to imagine the openness at that time. Material of skirts in Tang Dynasty. The colors and styles are much higher than the previous generation, which can be described as magnificent. For example, many skirt styles involved in Tang poetry are: "Fairy begins to wear Cuixia skirt" and "Lotus leaf skirt cuts one color". "Two people lift the hidden flower skirt". Bamboo skirt. Blue tulle skirt. "New Moon Dress" and so on. The skirts in the Tang Dynasty are colorful and can be compared with people, mostly dark red. Apricot yellow and violet. Yueqing. Green. Among them, pomegranate color has the longest popularity. Li Baiyou "deceives willow leaves with eyebrows and envies pomegranate flowers with skirts." Wan Chu has "Mei Dai wins the color of day lily, and the red skirt envies pomegranate flowers." Its popularity can be seen from the "Yanjing May Song", "Pomegranate flowers are burned all over the street, and the branches are all falling, and thousands of households can't buy them, leaving their daughters in red skirts." The biggest feature of pomegranate skirt is its high skirt and short coat, which is in sharp contrast with the width and length of the two. The "Tang suit" of this coat skirt is the inheritance of the previous generation. Development and perfection. From the overall effect, the coat is short, the skirt is long, and it looks slim and slender.

Two. Nvzhe men's wear

In the long feudal society of China, it is rare for women to wear men's clothes. The Book of Rites once stipulated that "men and women can't wear clothes." Although it is impossible to be so absolute in fact, it is often considered immoral for women to wear men's clothes. Before the Tang Dynasty, although there was a slight difference between men and women in clothing styles during the Han and Wei Dynasties, it did not belong to women wearing men's clothing. Only in the Tang Dynasty, when the atmosphere was very relaxed, could women wear men's clothes. Even so, part of the reason is due to the influence of nomadic people. At that time, most of the foreign costumes that influenced the Central Plains were the costumes of direct ethnic groups. Those rough frames. Wu Ying's clothing and vigorous steeds have exerted a penetrating influence on Tang Nv's dress consciousness, and at the same time created an atmosphere suitable for women to wear men's clothes. "Old Tang Shuyu Fu Zhi" contains, "Or have a husband's clothes. Boots. Shirts, and always respect each other inside and outside "has clearly recorded the scene of women wearing men's clothes. "New Tang Book Five Elements" records that "Emperor Gaozong tasted the banquet, Princess Taiping wore a purple shirt and jade belt, and the soap was folded with a towel, holding seven objects and singing and dancing in front of the emperor.

Both the emperor and Hou Yi said that women can't be military attaché s, why should they dress like this? "Although the princess Taiping's move is a little coquetry, it also shows that there has been a trend of women wearing men's clothes in the early Tang Dynasty. The fashion of women wearing men's clothes was particularly popular in the Tang Dynasty. Popular in Tianbao period. Notes on China's Ancient and Modern Notes. " By the middle of Tianbao, the scholar's wife was wearing her husband's boots, shirt and whip cap, both inside and outside. "A Record of Li Shichuan in the New Tang Dynasty". "I heard that Jin Er, the Golden Bird, is in the Forbidden City. Yesterday Xuanzong was lucky in the hot spring, and Yang Guifei wore it. "It can be seen that it was quite common for women to imitate men's wear at that time.

Three. Khufu

From the early Tang Dynasty to the prosperous Tang Dynasty, the northern nomadic Huns. The Khitan Uighurs had many contacts with the Central Plains, and there were endless camel caravans on the Silk Road, which had a great influence on the costumes of the Tang Dynasty. The so-called conference semifinals are derogatory terms for the northern nationalities by the Han people. We are here to tell the history and keep the title at that time. The culture that accompanied the Hu people, especially the Hu clothes-this includes India. National costumes, including Persian and many other national elements, made women in the Tang Dynasty feel refreshed. As a result, a gust of wind swept the cities in the Central Plains, especially Chang 'an and Luoyang, and their ornaments were the most peculiar. Yuan Zhen's poem: "Since Hu rode the smoke, it was full of stench. Women learned from Hu makeup and have been engaged in Hu Wei ... Hu Yin Hu rode and Hu makeup for fifty years." Tang Xuanzong likes Hu Wu Le Hu and Yang Guifei. An Lushan is an expert in Hu dance, and Bai Juyi's Yi Yu Dance in Song of Eternal Sorrow is one of Hu dances. There are also mixed tuo dance, deadwood dance and Hu Xuan dance. Dance. Clothing and other art categories have a great influence. You can also imagine the exciting scene of "all male and female servants study in one group" at that time. Yao Runeng's "An Lushan Deeds" records that "at the beginning of Tianbao, expensive tourists wore Hu Mao, while women swayed and the clothes were narrow." The image of women wearing khufu can be found in stone carvings, line drawings and other historical sites. A typical example is wearing a mud hat, tight lapel robes with narrow sleeves, trousers and boots. Yu Fu Zhi said: "After the Middle Sect, there was a man dressed in clothes and boots like Xi. Qidan's costume "should be such a costume.

Four. Crown service system

The Tang Dynasty is our politics. The era of highly developed economy and prosperous culture and art is the moderns of feudal culture. Tang Yitong saved the chaos and division of Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties and Sui Dynasty, established a unified and powerful country, developed foreign trade transactions, greatly developed productivity, and enjoyed long-term prosperity and national security. Especially when the prosperous Tang Dynasty became the center of economic and cultural exchanges among Asian nations, it was the most brilliant page in China's cultural history. During this period, Indian and Iranian cultures were absorbed and integrated into China culture, starting with murals. Stone carving. Carving. Books. Painting. Silk embroidery. Pottery figurines and costumes fully embody.

During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the most obvious feature of China's clothing was the dual-track system. Wear the traditional costumes of the Han nationality at the big sacrificial ceremony. In normal times, the official costume of the Tang Dynasty was made of Hufu (Xianbei clothing).

By the Tang dynasty, the country was unified, the economy was prosperous, the shape was more open, and the costumes were more and more gorgeous. The characteristics of women's clothing in Tang Dynasty are skirts. shirt Never put off till tomorrow what you can. Among women, there is an image of topless and bare arms. On the mural on the east wall of Princess Yongtai's tomb, there is a comb bun. Show your breasts. She wore red silk on her shoulders and a yellow short-sleeved shirt. Wearing a long green dress. The image of women wearing red ribbons around their waists in the Tang Dynasty gives us a more vivid understanding of "powder chest and half-concealing suspicion and dark snow" and "clothes wrapped in grass when sitting, skirts swept plum when walking".

Dressing slowly and revealing a little is not everyone's job. In the Tang Dynasty, only people with status could wear open-chested shirts, Princess Yongtai could be semi-naked, and singers could be semi-naked to please the ruling class, while women in ordinary families were not allowed to be semi-naked. At that time, the semi-topless dress of the Tang Dynasty was somewhat similar to the evening dress of the modern west except that the shoulders and back were not allowed to be exposed.

The collar of women's wear in Tang Dynasty is round neck. Square collar. Inclined collar. Straight collar and chicken heart collar. Short skirts and long skirts are characterized by high waists, generally above the waist, and some are even tied under the armpits, giving people a very slender feeling.

"Luoshan leaves are heavily embroidered, and Jinfeng Yinyan has its own traces." Mei Dai wins the color of day lily, and the red skirt envies pomegranate flowers. The skirts of the Tang Dynasty are bright and red. Purple. Yellow. Green seeks beauty, especially red skirts. The popularity of red skirts in the streets is not the patent of modern people. As early as the prosperous Tang Dynasty, dance skirts were dyed red by pomegranate flowers everywhere.

Perhaps influenced by the theory of Yin-Yang and Five Elements, Yang Guifei likes the yellow skirt best, which is a symbol of status.

The "semi-exposed skirt" reflects the openness of society at that time from one side.

Social ideology formed on a certain economic basis. Is to influence social fashion. Clothing is an important factor. Clothing is a barometer of social and political climate. The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of feudal society in China, especially Zhenguan. During the Kaiyuan period, the political climate was relaxed and the people lived and worked in peace and contentment. Chang 'an, the capital of the Tang Dynasty, was the politics of that time. Economy. The center of culture is also the center of cultural exchange between East and West. Xi 'an, the ancient city, is the morning bell of Yanta. Caotang cigarettes Snow and snow in willows. Night view photos of Mount Li. Kazuki Watanabe musician Zhang Xian. The stone carvings in the forest of steles still seem to haunt the voice of the prosperous Tang Dynasty. More than 300 countries had friendly exchanges with the Tang government. Through them, splendid China culture spread to all parts of the world. Today, some countries in East Asia still regard the costumes of the Tang Dynasty as formal attire, which shows its lasting influence. Foreign friendly envoys gathered in Chang 'an and also spread the seeds of their culture in Qinchuan, 800 miles away. Painting in Tang dynasty. Carving. Music. Dance and other arts attract foreign skills and styles. The eclecticism of foreign costumes makes the exotic costumes in the Tang Dynasty even more dazzling.

Due to the open policy adopted by the Tang dynasty, the western regions. Tubo's clothes are not stick to one pattern, so he took off his hat. "Contemporary makeup" became popular. This is the third great change in the ancient costume history of China. Different from the previous two major changes in clothing, this time the clothing exchange is from north to south and then to east.

As the spiritual pillar of the ruling class in feudal society, Confucianism regards observing the laws of ancestors as the foundation of loyalty and filial piety, and emphasizes that the clothing system must follow the ancient laws, especially as sacrificial clothing and royal clothing, so it is called legal clothing. It is very conservative and closed. The daily clothes of the imperial court are called uniforms, which have the characteristics of the times. Tang Gaozu Li Yuan (6 18-636) promulgated a new law in the seventh year of Wude (624 AD), namely the famous Wude Law, including the Dressing Law, including Fourteen Clothes for the Son of Heaven. Queen's suit three. The sixth suit of the Crown Prince. The clothes of Crown Princess III. The prince's clothes are twenty-two. Life women's dress six. The content basically follows the old system of Sui Dynasty, and Tian Zi's 14 kinds of clothes are all big furs. A crown. Harrier crown. Crown. Corona. Tian Tong Guan Xuan crowned. Cloth crown. Wu Yang. Get the clothes. Hirasuke White gauze hat. Ping Jin white tea. The crown prince's six kinds of clothes all have crowns. Travel far and wide. Public service. Their jobs. Get the clothes. Prince Ping Jin has crowns on all 22 kinds of clothes. Harrier crown. Crown. Corona. Xuanmian flat crown. A crown. Wu Yang. Get the clothes. The sage is crowned. Travel far and wide. Judge's den. Alpine crown (side injection crown). The appearance of a crown (made of skin). But not a crown. Jiang Pingjie from Ping Jin. Jiee. Flat towels and green bags. Wear clothes (royal clothes). From provincial services (public services). Wedding dress; The queen's three kinds of clothes have robes. Juyi rudder rudder rudder rudder rudder rudder; There are three kinds of clothes for the crown princess: Zhai Zhai. Juyi hairpin dress. The six kinds of clothes for women in life are Zhai clothes. The ceremonial dress of hairpin. Gifts and clothes. Public service. Half sleeve skirt. Flower hairpin gift clothes. The collocation of the above kinds of clothes, the object of users and the occasion of wearing them, Uncle Tang. Che Fuzhi has detailed instructions. All sacrificial costumes and royal costumes (also called costumes) attending major political activities. The system is basically the same as the Sui Dynasty, but it is more beautiful in form than the Sui Dynasty. The official clothes worn in general occasions (also known as provincial clothes) and Yanju clothes in peacetime (also known as Yanfu) have absorbed the Hu clothes that have been popular in China since the Southern and Northern Dynasties. Especially some elements in the northwest Xianbei national costume and Central Asian national costume, and combine them with the traditional costumes of China to create a new costume form with Tang characteristics. Among them, like a crotch robe. 〓crotch. Half an arm. Clothes. Pants and so on are examples. The crotch-missing robe is a straight, left-right split robe, also known as a four-inch shirt, which can be worn with a bow. Belt. The collocation of boots became the main clothing form of men in Tang Dynasty. In the Tang Dynasty, the official dress developed the traditional form of the ancient deep service system and took the lead. Cuff them. The hem of the dress is welted, and the front and back of the dress are cut straight. The lower edges of the front and rear lapels are horizontally connected to form a horizontal reed, and the waist is fastened with a belt. Sleeves are divided into straight sleeves and wide sleeves. Narrow sleeves are called "clothes" and "sleeves are straight and shaped like grooves." This style moves easily. The style with wide sleeves and big ruffles can show chic and luxurious demeanor, which is called a round neck shirt. Robe, from the emperor. You can put it on for the waiter. Wotou round neck Belt. The clothing style of boots has been passed down to the Ming Dynasty.

After the implementation of martial law, the crown service system in the Tang Dynasty was constantly revised and improved, which inherited the tradition of Zhou and Han Dynasties and matched with costumes. Clothing materials. Decorative colors and other aspects have formed a complete series, which has also had a far-reaching impact on the crown clothing of later generations.

Before the Tang Dynasty, yellow could be worn up and down. For example, soldiers in the Sui Dynasty wore yellow. The Tang Dynasty believed that red and yellow were similar to the colors of the sun, which was a symbol of the emperor's status. "There are no two days in the sky, and there are no two kings in the country." Therefore, red yellow (ochre yellow) is not allowed to be abused by subjects other than the emperor. Ochre was designated as the special color of the emperor's uniform. At the beginning of Li Zhi and Tang Gaozong (650-683 AD), foreign officials and Shu Ren could wear ordinary yellow (such as lemon yellow with cool colors). ). By the first year of the general chapter in Tang Gaozong (AD 668), yellow was mixed with ochre, and all officials and people were forbidden to wear yellow. Since then, yellow has been the symbol of the emperor.

In the Tang Dynasty, it was also very popular for women to wear "Khufu". "Khufu" is the costume of western people. The form of the belt is also deeply influenced by Khufu. Before this, people's waist ornaments were made of gold, silver, copper and iron. At this time, it was popular to wear "water belts" with gold ornaments and short belts for tying things. This kind of belt was the most popular in the Tang Dynasty and lasted until the Northern Song Dynasty.

After the prosperous Tang Dynasty, the influence of Khufu gradually weakened, and the styles of women's clothes became wider and wider. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, this feature was more obvious. Generally speaking, women's sleeves are often more than four feet wide. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, aristocratic dresses were usually worn on important occasions. Wearing this kind of clothes, there are golden flowers in the hair, so it is also called "women's gift"

After Tang Gaozong, purple is the representative color of military officials; Light scarlet is the color of five official uniforms, dark green is the color of six official uniforms, light green is the color of seven official uniforms, dark blue is the color of eight official uniforms, light blue is the color of nine official uniforms, and yellow is the color of outsiders and ordinary people.

Tang suit also has a great influence on neighboring countries. For example, Japan Heshun absorbed the essence of Tang costume to a great extent in color, and Korean costume also inherited the advantages of Tang costume in form. The skirt in Tang suit has long and soft lines, which is very beautiful and comfortable. The material is mainly silk, so its clothes are famous for their softness. Tang costume itself has many and varied categories, and boldly absorbs the characteristics of foreign costumes from appearance to decoration, mostly Central Asian costumes. India. Iran. Drawing lessons from foreign costumes from Persia, North China and the Western Regions has enriched the costume culture of the Tang Dynasty, made the costumes of the Tang Dynasty colorful and unique, and became a wonderful work in China's historical costumes, attracting worldwide attention.

The costume patterns in the Tang Dynasty changed the creative thinking of Shen Fu in the past, and used real flowers. Grass. Fish. Insect sketch, but traditional dragon. Phoenix pattern has not been excluded, which is also determined by the influence of imperial power. At this time, the design of clothing patterns tends to express freedom. It is full. Fat artistic style.

The dress patterns in the late Tang Dynasty were more exquisite and beautiful. Flower and bird clothing patterns. Edge decorative pattern. The floral dress pattern on the soft clothing of silk yarn is really full of flowers, competing with each other. As Wang Jian of the Five Dynasties said, "Luoshan leaves are embroidered, and jinfeng silver geese are clustered. Every time they dance, they jump in two directions, which is in the word' long live peace'. " Today, we see these luxurious and exquisite clothing patterns, which are precious video materials preserved for future generations by the painters in Dunhuang Grottoes with hard work. The development of costumes in Tang Dynasty is a whole development, and the design of costume patterns at this time is more inclined to express freedom. It is full. Gorgeous circle, in the shoes. Hat. Towels. Yu Pei. Hairstyle. Make up. The performance of jewelry shows this feature.

The Tang Dynasty inherited Zhou. The style of Wei and Jin Dynasties in Warring States combined with the rigor of dress pattern design in Zhou Dynasty. Extending to the Warring States Period. The lightness of Han dynasty. Wei and Jin dynasties are integrated, and on this basis, they are more luxurious and make costumes. Clothing patterns have reached the peak of history; Tang dynasty costumes. The influence of clothing patterns on future generations continues to this day. The application of branch patterns in modern clothing patterns embodies the implication of combining traditional patterns with modern aesthetic consciousness.

There are many factors that make the costumes of the Tang Dynasty colorful. First of all, it laid the foundation of the Sui Dynasty. The reign of the Sui Dynasty became shorter, but the silk industry made rapid progress. It is recorded in the literature that Emperor Yang Di of Sui Dynasty "crowned the treacherous court official". Not only did he make his ministers wear gorgeous clothes, but even when he went to the canal, the ropes of the big ship were made of silk. Trees on both sides of the river decorate their willows with green silk and tie their flowers with colorful silk, which is enough to see the amazing silk production. By the Tang Dynasty, silk products were produced all over the country, regardless of output. The quality is higher than that of the previous generation, thus providing a solid material foundation for the novelty and richness of costumes in the Tang Dynasty. In addition, we have extensive contacts with people of all nationalities in various countries, and adopted an inclusive attitude towards cultures of all countries, so that they can be integrated with their own costumes, thus being able to launch countless novel and wonderful crown clothes. Tang suit, especially women's dress, was not only admired by people at that time, but even today people are very excited to see Tang suit. There is no affectation, no posturing and reserve. What is displayed in front of people is a vibrant, exciting and fascinating dress. Its color is not rich and colorful, all kinds of bright colors compete with each other, unwilling to let go of loneliness, and the mixture of gold and silver is even more dazzling. Its decorative patterns, all birds and animals in pairs, are full of flowers, auspicious light and full of vitality, which is really a great landscape in the prosperous Tang Dynasty.