Guo Jinsuan｜Walking in front of Qingmuchuan

Guo Jinsuan | Walking in front of Qingmuchuan

The novel "Qingmuchuan" by female writer Ye Guangqin made this little-known little place located in the hinterland of Qinba Mountain suddenly become popular. , becoming a tourist attraction.

I also went there not long ago. The journey of about two to three hours after getting off the train from Yangpingguan is not bumpy, but it is still a bit bumpy. As the car travels through the canyon and river, it gradually becomes clearer. It is no longer narrow or majestic. What comes into view is the streets and villages composed of huge ancient buildings in the wide river. They are bathed in the golden sunshine of the morning. Tourists couldn't help but exclaimed "Wow".

The huge wooden archway is engraved with the vigorous ancient "Qingmuchuan", and the wooden Yinglian in the tourist reception center under the archway reads: A long street, two districts, three houses and three treasures show the century-old treasures. Spring and Autumn scrolls, ten miles of river roads, thousands of acres of fertile land, thousands of mountains and mountains, form a traceless picture of the wind and moon.

A Jinxi River flows through the center of the town, giving rise to the saying of new streets and old streets. A painted boat-style Fengfei Bridge connects the two sides. Regardless of the new street at the foot of Fenghuang Mountain in the north or the old street at the foot of Longchi Mountain in the south, they are all houses with purple-red wooden structures and pavements. The meandering Jinxi River is introduced into the old street. A small water channel built with pure bluestone slabs flows very clear day and night, gurgling, and colorful small fish roam freely in the water. People can fish on the eaves, which is quite a Jiangnan water town atmosphere. The streets paved with sharp turquoise stone slabs contrast with the redwood street houses with green tiles, giving visitors a visual shock.

The first thing that attracted me was the smokehouse. Speaking of the opium den, I have to mention a character from Qingmuchuan's past, that is Wei Futang, the prototype of the movie "A Generation of Heroes". During the years of the Republic of China, he lived in Qingmuchuan and dominated the area. He allowed farmers to grow and sell opium, but strictly prohibited smoking. Any offenders were fined heavily. So some outsiders came here to open opium dens. This was originally the choke point into Sichuan, more than 200 kilometers away from Jiuzhaigou Valley. The opium house provided services for passing merchants and caravans.

After brushing away the dust of history, the opium shop located on the main street of the old street looks like a romantic woman who has lost her youth, a bit panicked and unwilling. The smokehouse has a loft hall-style layout. The patio is a hall with an Eight Immortals table and a Taishi chair, which is equivalent to today's hotel bar. There are mahogany stairs on both sides. Guests going up and down must pass through the hall, which is convenient for management.

The attic is the real place to smoke. Each room is separated by wooden boards, with a dental bed, a cigarette and a teapot on the cigarette table, which is equivalent to a coffee table. The wooden walls are pasted or hung with cigarette posters that were popular in Shanghai in the 1930s, with beautiful figures applying grease. Pink and charming.

Qingmuchuan is located in the northwest corner of Ningqiang County, Shaanxi Province, at the junction of Shaanxi, Gansu and Sichuan provinces. The streets here are similar to those in other ancient towns across the country, with brick streets and wooden houses. A small river named Jinxi in the middle divides the ancient town into two areas, New Street and Old Street. A wind and rain covered bridge on the river connects New Street and Old Street. Most of the houses on the old street are inherited ancient buildings, while the new street is an antique building built later. It operates large and small hotels, local snacks, teahouses and bars, etc., making it more prosperous and popular. In contrast, I still like the vicissitudes and tranquility of the old streets.

Walking on Qingshi Old Street, the water on both sides of the street is gurgling and crystal clear, giving it a Jiangnan water town charm. Wandering among the ancient buildings such as the Wei family's old house, the opium house, and Rongshengkui, you can feel the traces of historical vicissitudes in the bracketed eaves, blue bricks and plain tiles, and recall the legendary stories left by the great hero Wei Futang. Businessmen gathered, and the sound of reading at Furen Middle School seemed to be right in front of me. Thinking about it today, Wei Futang set up schools, opened markets, built roads and bridges, subsidized students to study for free, and other charitable deeds in that barbaric land that "crowd three provinces". During the prosperous period of the Tang Dynasty in Taoyuan, he was really an enlightened gentleman with a liberated mind, a man with the pioneering spirit and innovative consciousness that we now advocate. But what he didn't expect was that he would die in the school he founded, and he could be regarded as a happy ending.

Times create heroes, and troubled times bring out heroes. Heroes and heroes are just a difference of thought. The merits and demerits are just different perceptions of the times. In fact, no matter what era or environment people are in, as long as they work hard to create the life they want according to their own abilities and dreams, why do they need to care about other people's comments about right and wrong? As the sage Mencius said: "You who know me will sin against me" , but only in the Spring and Autumn Period. "History will make its own judgment on right and wrong."

Overnight in Qingmuchuan, I stayed in a small hotel called Qingmuchuan Base opposite Xinjie Square. It was not big, but it was clean and tidy. From the window on the second floor, you can see the Jinxi River and the Binhe Road built along the river. There are many hotels, teahouses and bars along the street. From time to time, music and singing come out of the bars, accompanied by the sound of the gurgling water of the Jinxi River and the bright red The ambiguous light of the lanterns adds a bit of mysterious charm to the ancient town at night. Standing quietly in front of the window, recalling the story of Qingmuchuan and the people who walked together twice, I unknowingly felt that I had fallen in love with this beautiful ancient town, and a thought suddenly arose from deep in my heart: in a On a snowy winter day, staying alone for a few days with your luggage on your back, walking on the Qingshi Old Street, listening to the gurgling water, may keep your tired heart away from the worldly impetuousness, and enjoy a few days of pleasant mood...

My first impression of Qingmuchuan was that it was quiet. It was surprisingly quiet. I walked slowly along the marble steps. Only a few shops were open here and there, but they all had a sense of tranquility. It has an ancient flavor, the Sheng flag hangs beside it, matching the blue sky. Behind the dilapidated red painted pillars is a closed door, but the profound Qiang people's songs are swaying through the air. As I walk, Even if it comes out of the right branch.

Since they were not familiar with the road, the three of them strolled in front of the newly built parking lot outside the ancient town. As usual, there were no people around, and everything here was slow and comfortable. A kind-hearted grandfather suggested that we go for a walk at the observation deck. It is said that we can see the entire Qingmuchuan River from there, and watch the water of the Qingmuchuan River flowing through the ancient town. Following the direction of the grandfather, we finally saw the Qingmuchuan River not far away. There was a pavilion standing peacefully on the high mountain. It seemed like nothing was going on, so we went there happily.

To reach the foot of the mountain, you need to cross a suspension bridge. Since it is winter, there is not much clear water flowing in the Aomuchuan River. Exposed limestone pieces sleep quietly on the river bed, just listening to the gurgling stream-like sound. The sound echoed through the corridor. Half an hour later, we boarded the observation deck. The place is not big, but there is an exquisite pavilion built in the middle, called Huilong Pavilion. I heard that there is a Huilong Temple nearby, but I looked for it. After a long time, no trace of any temple was found on Cangshan Mountain.

Leaning on the railing, you can have a panoramic view of everything in the Aoki River. Surrounded by rolling mountains, there are crooked houses piled under the mountains. Because of the twists and turns of the Aoki River, this small town It is also divided into the left branch and the right branch. Needless to say, the right branch, at first glance, is a simple dark red, with bright red lanterns lined up in front of the door, swaying comfortably with the mountain breeze.

The left branch is all green bricks and white tiles, and the small town that lives on the river looks very comfortable. Someone's house in the distance lit up the green smoke, curling up into the clouds, making that The mountains in the distance are even more hazy, like an ink painting with some highlights. Being drunk in it, having this moment of comfort is enough to satisfy you.

After staying for a while, because we were thinking about the Zuo Branch, we went straight there. The Zuo Branch preserved many buildings from the Ming and Qing Dynasties, and it seemed to have a stronger ancient flavor.

It’s just a Huilong Street with no end in sight, but the houses on both sides are well-proportioned. The bluestone slabs have witnessed how many years have passed here, and only the mottled sparse shadows have stayed here for a long time, which I can’t forget. How can you not put it down with the aroma of baked walnut cakes? The singing of Qingmuchuan comes from next door. What is surprising is its unique charm. As usual, there are bustling crowds here, unlike Dayan or Pingyao, there are just crowds of people and excessive commercial development. Everything here is still moving forward slowly, like the forgotten people of the times, Qingmuchuan, It has its own way of life.

Tranquility, contentment, a cup of tea, and a book in the afternoon are a world away from the distractions of the world. Here, there is only the purification of the soul, and some are just rare comforts. .

At night, when the lanterns are lit, my heart becomes calm. The ancient town is surprisingly quiet. At this time, I am sitting in front of a pot of freshly lit charcoal fire and watching the wood smoke rising diagonally into the sky. The sky was dark and quiet, and the ancient town was gradually falling asleep again.

On the second day, there was no traffic and noisy noise. Accompanied by the morning and the rising sun, Qingmuchuan slowly woke up, changed into thicker clothes, and went to those scenic spots today. Turn around.

It was still so quiet. There was a woman who had just woken up leaning against the door and basking in the sun, her black hair half-combed, there was an old and kind old woman tending to the flowers and plants, and there was Moses wearing a big bell walking leisurely by. There is happiness on everyone's face.

After buying the tickets, we walked to the Wei Family Mansion. There were only a dozen or so people wandering around there. Fortunately, we managed to get a free tour guide, but I was still attracted by those exquisite I was attracted by the stone carvings, architecture, and furnishings. After viewing a room, the mighty explanation team had already gone to the backyard. The place suddenly became much cleaner. This was good, so I simply climbed up to the second floor and watched Wei Wei from a distance. Everything about the house is sighing, sighing, sighing, sighing.

Later, I went to Lefang and Yantuan. These three places are not very big, but they took a full afternoon. I followed the group before, and it was just like a quick tour. Form, now that I think about it, if I really want to understand it one by one, it really takes time to polish it. In this way, after staying in Qingmuchuan for two days, I can say that I have a preliminary understanding. Walking back and forth on Huilong Street I don’t know how many shadows I have passed, I have walked through the alley on the right branch many times, and I sigh about life in front of the campfire at night. Only here can I get a moment of peace from my impetuousness.

On the third day, I planned to take pictures of the morning scenery. I got up very early, but when I opened the door, I found that the town was already looming in the morning mist, and the left branch in the distance seemed to be a ghost. In the mist, there is a fresh smell in the air, it is still so quiet, but I have to say goodbye to it.

After a brief gathering, they then galloped in opposite directions, the noise was boiling up and then slowly fell down. In the small town I am about to leave, I can clearly hear the chirping of orioles and birds, the old people gathering firewood for morning food, the wind in the distant mountains rustling the trees and the sea, and the quiet people disappearing from the buildings. When the car started slowly, I inadvertently glanced at it again, but the word "love" is too strong to say to you, Qingmuchuan, I hope everything about you can last forever.

When the mountain flowers are in bloom, I hope you will also put on a green sleeves. Look at the days when you and I walked through the ancient town last winter, sleeping in the Nanshengzhu downstairs, playing a song The sad song of separation, there are also the old scenes of last winter here, this March the town must be suitable for the occasion, I can't help you, wearing a sad loneliness, drinking the first ray of lovesickness in the new year in this comfortable hometown , I am still here looking at you from a distance.

When we arrived at Feifengqiao, there was a huge traffic jam. We simply walked to the end of the old street and then walked from the other side of the river to the new street. Looking towards the old street from here, we saw this beautiful scenery in the mist and rain. The small town has a unique style, like a tranquil and quiet ink painting. Standing on the stone railing next to the Xinjie River, looking at the entire town, with green mountains and green water, and smoke curling from the cooking stoves, it is truly a paradise. Thinking of this, maybe those places I didn't go to were the regrets I deliberately left behind when I came again.

Goodbye! Aoki River!