Jiangnan good scenery nine Ceng Gan (3)

Jiangnan-We have obviously met. ...

Peach blossom in March, apricot blossom in April, met you.

I met you in the early summer of "old warbler chicks in the wind, plump plums in the rain ..."

In "autumn cold red leaves fall into the pond, boating with the clouds." I met you in autumn.

In "the water is light and the clouds are light, and the snow is full of thousands of villages." I saw you in winter.

…………

Jiangnan, isn't that the girl who walks alone in the lonely rain lane with an oil-paper umbrella?

Jiangnan, isn't that the woman rowing and picking the lotus leaf in the floating lotus leaf?

Jiangnan, isn't that the village girl carrying a bamboo basket and wearing a hat to pick tea?

Jiangnan, isn't that the daughter of a water town who is wearing a blue calico shirt and sitting at the bow of Wu Peng to send lotus root?

…………

Jiangnan, a strange and familiar, alienated and cordial Jiangnan.

Approaching you, you are right in front of you.

Is that you? The man who has been immersed in misty rain poems-Jiangnan

Everyone says that Jiangnan is good, and tourists should stay in Jiangnan until they are old.

? 3. Jiang Nanyi ink and wash Shaoxing

In Jiangsu and Zhejiang in spring and October, the breeze is blowing gently and the sun is warm.

From Hangzhou to Shaoxing, the train is a green leather train from Xi 'an to Ningbo.

I wonder how my daughter got the green leather train ticket.

"Bang, bang, bang, bang ..."

When I was a child, I went back to my hometown with my mother to see my grandmother. I took a green car and stopped at every stop for a long time.

The train was so crowded that even the aisles and toilets were crowded with people.

When I got off the train, I felt the road shaking forward.

When I grew up, I went to school. When I heard the long whistle of the train and saw the locomotive coming to the platform with white smoke, the green leather train was full of thoughts, because I would soon see my mother who had been away from home for a long time.

When I go to work, I transfer to another city to work, and I have to take a slow green leather train every week when I go home. Especially in winter, the mountain is closed by heavy snow, and the train is often late. You can't wait to put on your wings and fly home, but it walks steadily like a snail, breathing white air and crawling slowly in the heavy snow. ...

"Bang, bang, bang, bang ..."

Thirty years later, I got on the green leather train again, as if going back in time. ...

A trip to Shaoxing is like getting on a slow train.

When I arrived in Shaoxing, I stayed in a homestay called "Shipur Lodge" reserved by my daughter in advance.

As soon as I entered the door, I was attracted by a pair of Lanting calligraphy above the door.

Lanting, located in Shaoxing, was called Huiji in ancient times. I met "Wang Xizhi" in the "hometown of the sage of books".

In the ninth year of Yonghe in the Eastern Jin Dynasty, Wang Xizhi, a folk history of Huiji, invited more than 40 celebrities and nobles to hold a grand meeting in Lanting, and wrote the Preface to Lanting Collection, which is known as "the best running script in the world". Wang Xizhi was honored as a "book saint" and Lanting became a holy place for calligraphy. Shaoxing has naturally become the "hometown of book saints".

Anyone who studies running script in the future will fall in love with Lanting. It's a pity that such a calligraphy treasure has finally become a martyr of Emperor Taizong and Li Shimin, and will never be seen in the world.

The proprietress asked curiously what the name "Shi Su" meant.

"Friends picked up two paintings, lovers picked up two paintings, lovers picked up two paintings, and family picked up two paintings. Therefore, the name is unforgettable. "

"Plus there are twelve rooms, so it's called this name."

The proprietress is from Shaoxing, the hometown of celebrities.

Shaoxing has a history of more than 2500 years. It is also a famous water town, bridge town, wine town and hometown of calligraphy. Celebrities are too numerous to mention:

Qiu Jin, Zhu Ziqing, Qian Sanqiang, Zhou Enlai and Lu Xun, the first son of Xia Dynasty, were all from Shaoxing. Shaoxing can be described as "an extraordinary place with Zhong Ling, beautiful mountains and rivers, attracting extraordinary people".

Put away your luggage and stroll through the alley.

Glowing bluestone road

A small bridge over which the river flows slowly.

Willow is weeping in the breeze by the river.

A lazy puppy is lying in the sun.

Grandma is chatting with her neighbors in the alley.

On the roof, bamboo poles are used to hang clothes to dry.

Under the bridge, there are covered boats in twos and threes.

But I didn't see the boatman in the black felt hat.

It seems that time is up and I don't want to take another step.

Residents in the old street area live by the river.

If you walk to the entrance, you will find a small river port in every backyard, which is a typical pattern of "one river and five streets" in Shaoxing city. Although every household has running water now, I can see that the residents here still have the habit of washing clothes and vegetables in the river.

I don't know if I have crossed the "eight-character bridge" in Shaoxing. Shaoxing has a developed water system and is known as the "hometown of ten thousand bridges". Perhaps no one can accurately verify the number of stone bridges in Shaoxing throughout the ages, but the figure-of-eight bridge has a unique historical position on the 2700-kilometer Grand Canal. It has the reputation of "the oldest overpass in China". Shaped like an eight-character, it skillfully connects the three small rivers gathered here.

Chef Wu unconsciously sings:

"There are many small bridges in the water town.

Long vines in the cracks of slate

Three steps and two bridges connect the water port.

All jade belts reflect blue waves? "

……

The afternoon sunshine is warm and lazy.

"Zhu Zhishan Restaurant!" Talking and laughing with chef Wu Huixin, I was attracted by a restaurant named after one of the four talented people in Jiangnan.

It's already three o'clock in the afternoon, and I haven't eaten by bus at noon.

Husband and wife restaurant, warm and thoughtful.

Ordered the authentic Shaoxing food "Muqianzhang", the boss gave us a cup of Fluttershy, which he usually drinks, and poured us two cups of yellow wine brewed by himself.

The boss told us that thousands of moldy pieces were made by himself, and showed us thousands of moldy pieces, saying that many businesses will not do them by hand now. It is said that Muqianpian has a unique flavor, which is famous for its freshness, fragrance and lightness. It is a good product in bean products.

But I didn't eat. Except for "salty" or "salty", I feel salty, and I can't stop it with white rice.

The proprietress told us to go forward, and not far away was "Lu Xun's hometown".

Lu Xun's hometown is a historical block with unique Jiangnan customs. It is a real place to interpret Lu Xun's works, taste the scenery in Lu Xun's works and feel Mr. Wang's life situation in those years.

On both sides of a narrow bluestone road, there are rows of white tiles, bamboo curtain doors, Lu Xun's ancestral home, Lu Xun's former residence, Baicao Garden, Santan Yinyue, Shoujiataimen, Tugu Temple, Lu Xun's style garden and Xianheng Hotel. A small river flows in front of Lu Xun's former residence, and the awning boat is swaying on the river. ...

There were many middle school students who visited Lu Xun's hometown that day, so we had a cursory look at "Three Tanyin Moon" and "Herb Garden".

When Lu Xun's former residence came out, several merchants were selling things related to Lu Xun's works, such as rulers and fennel beans, to attract tourists.

Mr. Wang probably wouldn't have thought of "the only person standing drinking and wearing a gown" in his book. Kong Yiji of "cool thin" became the spokesperson of "Fennel Bean".

Go straight along Xun's hometown, and you will arrive at Shen Yuan in less than five or six minutes.

Shenyuan Garden, also known as "Shenyuan Garden", is a private garden of a wealthy businessman named Shen in the Southern Song Dynasty, which was founded in the Song Dynasty.

Lu You once left a famous sentence "Hairpin Phoenix" here.

It's getting dark, so I can't enjoy the scenery of Shenyuan.

But you can watch Night in the garden at 7:40 pm.

The Night in Shenyuan combines local operas such as Yue Opera, Shao Opera and Lotus Falls, and interprets the tragic love story between Lu You and Tang Wan.

There is still a period of time before the performance, and I walked into a Shaoxing local restaurant across the street from Shenyuan.

Chef Wu took the menu and saw a dish on the menu called "steaming three smells", so he wanted to eat it! Have a taste of "smelly" and two glasses of yellow rice wine. Wait until it stinks.

"What's that smell? ! "I saw the diners covering their noses.

The smell drifted away, and the original "steaming three smells" appeared in black and pink.

The "steaming three stinks" on the table is bright in color and exquisite in appearance.

Steamed stink is also called Shaoxing stink. In fact, it is: simply treat the moldy amaranth stalks, stinky tofu and edamame, then lay the bottom with stalks, put tofu and edamame on them in turn, sprinkle with appropriate amount of oil and salt, and then steam them in a pot.

Description of Baidu Encyclopedia: Moldy amaranth stalks and stinky tofu are attacked with both fists, and the freshness and rancidity of edamame are integrated, and the taste between lips and teeth is sour and refreshing. On this basis, adding moldy wax gourd is "steaming four stinks", which is said to be "Huashan sword with heavy taste."

A Shaoxing diner next to him said calmly, "Don't you think this smell is fragrant?" ! "

"I don't think it stinks!"

Without taking a bite, chef Wu pretended to be calm and took a few bites. After eating, his face twisted.

Some people say that Shaoxing people are smelly and unhappy, stinky tofu is famous far and wide, and moldy amaranth stalks dominate the stinky food world. In ancient times, there was a saying that "nothing can be done without salt", that is, the ancient Shaoxing touts were all over the yamen. It is said that once touts recruited students, after written examination and interview, the last hurdle was to invite candidates to dinner. In front of everyone is a plate of "smelly three kinds": stinky tofu, moldy thousand pieces, moldy vegetable stalks. All applicants who can't eat are eliminated.

Because only those who eat "smelly three kinds" are authentic Shaoxing people. To be qualified to ask questions.

I've really learned the "smelly" food in Shaoxing, but it's this smelly thing that Shaoxing people can't stop at all, and even make the wanderers in a foreign land dream.

Willow weeping in the shed of small bridge and flowing water. ...

With the curtain of "Night in a Deep Garden" opened, a beautiful landscape of ink painting in the south of the Yangtze River is presented to people. A thousand years ago, the love story between Lu You and Tang Wan seemed to happen in front of us, which made people feel as if they had crossed into the Southern Song Dynasty.

From the lingering affection between Lu You and Tang Wan when they visited the Garden to the lingering hatred when they met in Shenyuan, from the time when Lu You returned to the Garden and wrote "The Hairpin Phoenix" in Shenyuan to the scene when the white head was unbearable, the story of Lu You and Tang Wan was tortuous, tearful and touching.

Watch the whole play.

I don't think procrastination is slow. Perhaps the charm of China traditional opera lies in its gentle, feminine and enduring singing. I always feel that Tang Wan's plaintive song echoes in the night sky: "The world is thin and human feelings are evil, and it is easy for flowers to fall at dusk when it rains." The breeze is dry and the tears are residual. If you have to worry, just say it alone. Difficult, difficult, difficult! "

The end of the song is over.

My heart seems to have passed the green leather train that once carried the sadness of parting. ...

Life is sometimes like a fast train. It is too late to see the scenery outside the window, to savor a cup of tea, to enjoy a play slowly, to savor it carefully, to think it over carefully, to reflect on it carefully, and maybe it will turn gray and lament that so many wonderful times have been missed. ...

Ink and wash Shaoxing, a slow time journey brought by a green leather train.

Written in October 20 19 10.