Secret Journey Serial (6) Impression of Derge

The one-night rest in Dege was the best night after entering the Western Sichuan Plateau on this secret trip. The drizzle slants across the window lattice, the sound of the river behind the house, and the calls of unknown auspicious birds add a bit of joy to the early morning in this Buddhist capital at the junction of Sichuan and Tibet.

The hotel we stayed in has a certain level in the local area, and the service and sanitary conditions are very good. The rare complimentary breakfast makes people feel comfortable and comfortable, and can wash away the fatigue of the past few days. Although the supplies in the Western Sichuan Plateau today are much richer than in the past, they are still generally not as good as those in the mainland. In addition, Dege is located at the southern foot of Queer Mountain. All supplies have to be transported over difficult and dangerous mountains, so you can eat rich food. Breakfast is something you should really be grateful for.

For friends who do not study Buddhism, they may not understand Derge because it is hidden deep in the mountains. But in the minds of Buddhists, it is a holy city. This is not only a holy place blessed by Padmasambhava, but also a world-renowned Derge Sutra Printing House. Historically, the main classics of Tibetan Buddhism, "Tengyur" and "Kangyur", as well as the main teaching materials of various major sects, were all printed by the Dege Sutra Printing House.

Dege, located at the southern foot of Queer Mountain, has been a battleground for military strategists since ancient times. It guards the gate to western Sichuan and is separated from Tibet by a river. It is also an important town that reaches Qinghai, Gansu in the north and Yunnan in the south. Literati, monks, travellers, merchants and chivalrous people of all ages would stop in Dege whenever they entered Tibet. The book "Seeking Dharma in the Snowy Land" by Mr. Xing Suzhi, which I read some time ago, also gave a very detailed description of Derge. The last time I passed through Dege and went to Baiyu County to pay homage to the Buddha, it was only a superficial visit, and I didn’t have time to appreciate the tranquility and beauty of the Buddhist capital. Today I will borrow Mr. Xing’s works and have a good trip.

Dege County is a small town. It is located between two mountains at an altitude of about 2,800 meters. A river flows around the city, and it is filled with outstanding political leaders and outstanding people. The county seat was built with the Dege Sutra Printing House as the center and is mainly populated by Tibetan compatriots. The overall building is built on the mountain. The magnificent temple, the splendid roof, and the Buddha statues painted on the cliffs tell us that Buddhism, Dharma, and Sangha are closely related to life here. Practice is work, and work is also practice. Being in the small town, I can't help but think of Bhutan, which is also a holy city where all people believe in Buddhism.

After breakfast, we felt the light rain and went to the famous Dege Bible Printing House. The Dege Bible Publishing House is known as the "Encyclopedia of Tibetan Culture", "The Shining Cultural Pearl of the Tibetan Area", and "The Treasure House under the Snow Mountains". The famous Dege Sutra Printing House, whose full name is "Tibetan Cultural Treasure Dege Sutra Printing House, Dharma Library Jixiang Duomen", also known as "Derge Jixiang Juhui House", was founded in 1729 and covers a total area of ??about 5,000 square meters. The building covers an area of ??nearly 3,000 square meters, with a total construction area of ??more than 9,000 square meters. It is located in the Cultural Street of Dege County (Gengqing Town). In 1996, it was listed as a national key cultural relics protection unit by the State Council of the People's Republic of China and in 2009 In 2006, as a traditional skill, the woodblock printing technology of Dege Sutra Printing Institute was included in the representative list of human intangible cultural industries by UNESCO.

When you come to Tibet, you should naturally put on Tibetan clothes according to the occasion, and walk around the Dege Sutra Printing House seven times with the enthusiastic and pious Tibetan compatriots. In Tibet, it is a tradition to turn right-hand pagodas and monasteries. The Buddha gave detailed teachings on the merits of circumambulating the stupa monastery in the Sutra on the Merit of Circumambulating the Stupa. When they get up in the morning in Dege, whether they are workers, farmers or businessmen, they will go to the Dege Bible Publishing House for a few laps before going to work. There were octogenarians, infants, and young and middle-aged people in the crowd. Everyone did not speak and just recited the mantra, Om ma Nibeme hum? Om ma Nibeme hum? Om ma Nibeme hum? Om ma Nibeme hum. Hum? Our group was also deeply moved among the crowd.

After entering the Sutra Printing House, first go to the main hall on the first and second floors to worship Buddha, then visit the hundreds of years of Buddhist scripture engraving, and observe the printing process of the engraving masters, their skillful movements, elegant chanting, and piety. Their eyes tell us that they are not working, not printers, but paying homage to Buddha, and are great Bodhisattvas serving all living beings. Touching the densely packed wooden boards with your own hands, every word and every board is the hard work of devout believers for hundreds of years. Hundreds of years later, Derge Sutra Printing House still follows the traditional printing technology, providing Tibetan Buddhism and Tibetan Buddhism all over the world. Chuan publications provide services, and it is said that their orders must be booked three years in advance. During the visit, CCTV Record Channel was filming a documentary. The country attaches great importance to traditional culture and the treasures of Tibetan Buddhism. We are grateful to the country and to the masters who have inherited the printing art.

The rooftop of the Bible Publishing House is a highlight. The sutra flag is flying, and the chanting of Sanskrit is vigorous.

Standing on the rooftop, you can have a panoramic view of the small town, which is really a joy in life. Fellow Taoists took photos one after another to record the rare experience.

The morning was still short. Before the visit ended, we purchased a lot of traditional Tibetan paper and stereotype-printed thangkas. These are not available in the mainland. The quantity is extremely limited. We went back to frame and hang them. The meeting in the Buddhist hall will be extremely solemn. Considering that we had to rush in the afternoon, we didn’t dare to stay too long, so we headed to Qamdo, the next stop full of mystery. We can predict what will happen next and will share it in the next article.

On the way to Tibet on June 11, 2017