Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Photography major - Bird photography course

Bird photography course

Lead: There is no need to buy very expensive cameras and lenses, but having the right equipment can make shooting easier. Let's take a look with everyone!

Practical course of bird photography Most birds are very thin, so you need a lens of at least 200mm (300mm is better). The telephoto lens not only allows you to shoot from a long distance, but also blurs the background. Just a longer focal length (or a larger aperture) means that the lens will be more expensive, bigger and heavier. Knowing this, I think the 400mm f/5.6 lens is the best, which can provide the longest focal length as possible while ensuring the aperture and portability. Of course, you can also use 100mm or shorter lens, but you need to find very brave birds, or just take birds as part of landscape photography.

In bird photography, almost all digital SLR cameras can be used. However, if you plan to shoot birds in flight, you should pay attention to continuous shooting speed, high sensitivity and the accuracy of autofocus system. If you don't have a SLR camera, it will be more difficult to shoot, but you don't have to give up, right? I believe that a good photographer can shoot better with a mobile phone than a bad photographer with expensive equipment.

Tripods, monopods, flashlights and even cable release can be very useful, but they are usually not necessary.

It is very important to know how to set up the camera in a specific situation.

In bird photography, telephoto lenses are often used, so the most important thing is not to use the shutter for too long if you don't want the photos to be blurred by machine vibration. The rule is that the shutter speed does not exceed the focal length of the lens. For example, the focal length of your lens is 400mm and the shutter should be within 1/400 s, but this formula is only valid when using a full-frame camera. If your camera is a small sensor, you need to multiply it by the focal length conversion factor. At this time, the shutter speed is limited to 1/640s.

Now most cameras or lenses have anti-shake function, which is very helpful in low light environment. With anti-shake, you can use the shutter for a longer time, depending on the information of the camera or lens. For example, if the anti-shake level of 400mm lens is level 2, you can add a level 2 shutter (1100s). Of course, if you use a tripod, this rule is not so important.

If you want to freeze the moment, use a shutter of11000s or shorter, and if you want to show motion, use a shutter of 1/60s or longer.

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Most people probably know that the aperture determines the depth of field. In other words, if you want a more blurred background, please use the maximum aperture. However, when using telephoto lens, some parts of the bird are easily out of focus, so be sure to pay attention to your focus (usually the eyes). If necessary, reduce the aperture a little.

Bird photography, like other categories, the lower the sensitivity, the better. However, clear photos using ISO 800 or 1600 are better than blurred photos using ISO 200.

There are three best exposure modes when shooting birds. If you want to control the aperture (depth of field), use the aperture first; If you want to control the shutter (shooting birds in flight), using the shutter is preferred; If you can master the exposure, use manual mode.

If you shoot dark birds on a light background, you can add some exposure compensation if you want to get more dark details. If you are worried about overexposure, reduce the exposure compensation.

Whenever possible, I suggest always shooting in RAW format, because you can easily adjust the settings later, such as white balance.

The next step is to know how to get as close to the bird as possible, and then you can shoot.

Some birds are brave. You can approach them. The best example is the white swan.

As long as you don't make sudden movements, many birds can let you near.

Sometimes this trick really works. As long as the birds can't see you, you can sneak up and shoot carefully.

When you come down, birds sometimes approach you unexpectedly. Just find a good place, or put some food in it, and then wait patiently.

This technique is very useful if you want to shoot some cautious birds, or if you need to shoot some smaller birds at close range. Camouflage belts, camouflage nets, or things in the surrounding environment can be used as camouflage. You can hide near things that prey on birds, or you can put some food where you want birds to appear. Sunflower seeds are often the best food. If you want the bird to stop on the branch before eating, put the food under the branch.

Whichever way you choose, you should be patient. If at first you don't succeed, don't turn elsewhere. Sometimes the best way is to come back the next day and try again.

Now, let's talk about the photo itself. We already know what kind of equipment we need and how to set up the camera. If we are close to birds, what we are going to talk about now is how to make the photos of birds look attractive.

Everything starts with good light. The best time to shoot is in the morning or evening, because at this time, the light is soft, the color is beautiful, there is no ghost, and the highlights and dark parts have good details.

Usually leave some space in the direction of birds' flight to show their flight. The dichotomy is also valid at this time. Try some different ingredients and see which one is the best. In addition, when shooting, you should avoid distractions in the photos. One last point: Try to have a bird's eye view of horizontal shooting.

Birds had better land where their habits can be reflected. Because the habits of birds are very different, this can explain almost everything. The background should not be distracting, and it is usually best (but not always) not to take the sky as the background.