Visit Fenghuang Ancient City

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When you fall in love with it - Phoenix Eleven Travel Notes On September 26, I finally left the troubled Beijing and embarked on a journey to Phoenix. Maybe it was because my expectations were too high, so I felt a little nervous. K267 is really too slow, but the train from Beijing to Phoenix is ??indeed the best choice. We got off at Jishou at 3 pm the next day. As soon as we left the train station, we went to buy return tickets for October 4, but There was nothing, so I got on the bus from the train station to Laershan (there is one in the train station square, although the driving time is not guaranteed, but luckily I waited 20 minutes before driving), and headed all the way to Phoenix. The road was being built in Jishou, and we walked for a long time on a broken road with turbulent soil. I was really afraid that we wouldn't be able to reach it before dark. However, the road on the Fenghuang side was good, and we finally arrived at a little after 5 o'clock. At this time, it was still sunny. Very bright. The four of us got off the bus at the Phoenix Bridge. We felt that Phoenix was very small, at least the beautiful place was very small. But in the next few days, everything here quietly changed our view. After contacting several inns in advance, including Tuojiang Inn and Miao Inn, I finally settled on Jiangbei Inn (20 yuan per person per night), so I called Jiangbei after getting off the car, and the boss quickly ran to the bridge to pick him up. We are. The boss, whose surname is Huang, is a painting enthusiast. He enthusiastically helped us hold our bags, and I walked past the famous jumping rock for the first time. Only then did I realize that the river water was very clear and there were many aquatic plants in it. , swinging gently and calmly with the waves, gave me the urge to plunge into the river. And the wooden planks and stone steps that have been washed away by the jumping rock seem to silently confirm the antiquity and tranquility of this place. There were many women washing clothes at the North Gate. The sound of clothes being washed, the melodious sound of running water, and the loud singing in the distance made me feel that beauty can be brought to life in this way. Opposite this scene of working life in the ancient city are bars and inns. Touring couples sit by the river, adding a touch of romance. Jiangbei Inn is located near Tiaoyan, about 200 meters away from Hongqiao. The most attractive thing about this inn is a super large balcony (on its fourth floor), which overlooks most of the ancient city of Phoenix. This balcony has also become Paradise for the 4 of us every night.

After putting down our backpacks, we couldn’t wait to start our tour of the ancient city. Since it was not the Golden Week yet, there were not many tourists in the ancient city. A very beautiful Miao girl carrying a small backpack recommended to us what to wear. Taking photos in Miao costumes made the young man in our group sigh for a long time. Along the shore of Jiangbei, we walked leisurely towards Hongqiao. Melodic folk songs floated in the wind. We suddenly felt like we were in a border town with ethnic minorities. There was no hustle and bustle of cars in the city. There are some chickens crowing and dogs barking, there is no tense pace of life, it is more relaxed and comfortable.

The snacks on both sides of Hongqiao have begun to serve, but I can’t praise you, they are still relatively unhygienic. There is also some jelly recommended by travel friends. It is indeed okay, sour and sweet, but it is edible. Halfway through the meal, I discovered that someone was collecting the disposable tableware that everyone had finished eating. They were obviously reused, which made me sick. Remind everyone to pay attention to hygiene!

After getting off Hongqiao, turn right and arrive at Shangshanglou and Heizai Restaurant. I have heard about these two restaurants for a long time. Anyway, I can try them, so I went to Shangshanglou and ordered the blood cake. Duck, fried bovine bacteria, etc., it cost 100 yuan. It was the most expensive meal in this trip. The taste was average.

I took a walk around the ancient city that night and looked at silver jewelry and ginger candies. You can try more ginger candies. Does everyone have different hobbies? I can’t say which one will be good. eat. However, the packaging of two companies is really good. If you want to store it for a long time, you should buy the packaged product.

Sitting on the big verandah at night, eating kiwi fruits bought on the road (the best ones cost 8 cents a pound), fireflies flying around, the river slowly flowing away, the stars in the night sky shining brightly, and a tranquil life. It's touching.

The next morning we went to the largest stone bridge in the world and Sanjiang. If you are not engaged in bridge construction, if you are not very interested in barren mountains, I suggest you not go to the First Big Stone Bridge, because it is just a bridge. It's a 40-minute journey from Sanjiang and there's not much to see. We came to Sanjiang with a hint of disappointment, and once again sighed, don't believe in the market, it's boring. They were selling clothes, vermicelli, New Year pictures and tobacco leaves. We really felt that we had let ourselves down, so we bought some tobacco leaves. They were very cheap, only one yuan was enough. There was a big bag of them. It was said that the taste was good and it was pure natural. Then, we saw something very interesting: tooth extraction. I wonder if you have heard of the cross talk about tooth extraction, it is the classic one. A real-life version of tooth extraction was staged at the Sanjiang market. I saw a Miao woman holding a vise, and another old woman with her mouth wide open. It was like pulling out a nail. The pliers were pulled out hard, but they didn't come out even after two pulls. It made us tremble. The third time the tooth-extractor exerted a strong force, there was a bloody thing on the pliers. We didn't dare to look at it anymore. Then everyone thought this tooth extraction was amazing and a great reward.

We walked up the street of the market, about 15 minutes away, and arrived at Ma'anshan Miao Village. It is right next to a nursing home. There is a big name written there. It is easy to find. Everyone must go. A very good place. Although the market is bustling with people, when you walk to the entrance of Ma'anshan Miao Village and turn a corner, it suddenly becomes clear. The prosperity and tranquility are switched in an instant, and an ancient stone village becomes quiet. It is located in front of you. Behind the village is a hill. Blue-grey and green are in eternal harmony. There are several acres of land and pools of water in front of the village. No one is farming. There are only a few ducks resting there. There are ancient trees on the roadside. It brought us a bit of coolness and a bit of solemnity, and we walked quietly towards the stockade. This is a very typical Miao village. Most of the buildings in the village still retain their original style. They are built with pieces of hard stone, and the stones are arranged like books on a bookshelf. Books, we have to admire their sturdiness and durability. The gate of the village is very interesting. It is like a bunker that people can climb up. There is also a lookout hole on it. The blue-gray stone pieces can actually create such a unique village gate. It has experienced ups and downs, weddings and funerals. , and may have resisted external attacks. Only the ancient tree at the door that two people can embrace can accompany it and bear witness to all this.

We returned to Phoenix at about 1 o'clock, took a taxi (2 yuan) and went to the famous Ambassador Hotel for dinner. It was still average and the price was not very cheap. I remember eating a black-bone chicken hot pot for 45 yuan, which was not as delicious as I imagined.

In the afternoon, we drove to Huangsiqiao and the South Great Wall. I think Huangsiqiao is okay and quite interesting. We spent 5 yuan to find a little girl to take us for a walk around the city. We looked at the county government offices and barracks, as well as the city gate where Wulong Mountain Bandit Suppression was filmed. It's more interesting than spending money to walk around the castle. As for the South Great Wall, we just looked at it from below.

That night we bought some side dishes and beer at Heizai and went back to the Super Invincible Terrace to enjoy it. It was so happy!

Early in the morning on the third day, we still chose to take a public boat tour on the Tuojiang River. When the early morning sunshine lifts the layers of mist on the Tuojiang River, the ancient city looks like an old man who has just woken up. The beautiful folk songs of the Miao people float to you with the breeze. Sitting on a boat, you can truly feel the gentleness of the Tuojiang River. The ancient city The standing city gate, the stilted buildings full of ethnic characteristics by the river, and the ducks and fighting cocks foraging for food by the river. Everything you see, hear, and breathe is wonderful and natural. After passing by the unique Duocui Tower , the boat sailed down the river to Shen Congwen's grave. Shen Congwen's cemetery is just like his articles, simple, peaceful and simple, but it makes you have endless aftertaste. There is no tombstone, only a big stone. On the front, "If you think according to me, you can understand me; if you think according to me, you can know people." On the other hand, "Unyielding, kind and conciliatory; stars fight for their writings, and their hearts are pure." There is only this. Only with green mountains and beautiful waters can we have such a state of mind.

After returning from the cemetery, we chartered a car to go to Duluo Village (70 yuan, about 5 hours of fun). The road was winding and passed many Tujia villages. It took about an hour’s drive to arrive. This village is hidden deep in the mountains. It is the kiwi fruit harvest season, and the kiwi fruits at Zhaizikou have piled up into hills, and the villagers are busy packing them into boxes. The history of this village is very old. There are many ancient trees in the village. The blue-gray color of the buildings in the village and the black color of the Tujia people's clothing are called the eternal pure green of Xiangxi. It makes you feel that everything is so clean and transparent. Many years later, maybe The memory is no longer so clear, but the combination of the stone house and the mountains will always remain in my heart. There is a primary school in the village. There is only a primary school here. If you want to go to middle school, you have to walk a long way. The children in the school are as happy as our children. Maybe there are more laughter here. In fact, happiness is so easy, but how many people can give up the impetuous prosperity and the splendor of money in the city? Me too.

After passing through the village and walking towards the mountain behind, I saw only two crops along the way, one was kiwi fruit and the other was tobacco leaves. It was noon, there was no one in the fields, and there was smoke from the village. A few of us were hungry and climbed to the top of the mountain. The weather was very hot. It took about an hour to climb to the top of the mountain. From a distance, we saw a gulf of water in the canyon. It turned many corners between the mountains and wound into the distance. behind the mountain. When we climbed down the mountain, we were already very hungry. Unexpectedly, there was a small thatched house in the canyon. The smoke was rising, and the aroma of the food made us particularly excited. So we had a feast of Tujia farm rice here, and the stewed pumpkin was the most delicious. In a quiet place, people often return to their own innocence. A few adults actually played water rafting. The clear water was like a mirror. The small stone jumped and jumped until it reached the other side of the river. At least it jumped A dozen times. Oh my gosh, I can apply for the Guinness World Records. After drinking and eating, we were not so tired anymore, so we walked along the stream towards the red lanterns pointing the way. The road was quite easy to walk, and there were few people, which was very wild and interesting. After walking about 2 kilometers, we have to climb the mountain. It is said that this mountain road is an ancient road with a lot of history. People used this road for trade and market a long time ago, so there are ancient trees and stone slabs on both sides of the road. And the water well also has a sense of historical vicissitudes.

Along the way, we listened to the simple villagers in the village telling us about the tranquility and peace here. It is said that the houses are not closed at night if the roads are not picked up! It takes about an hour to reach the village. A few of us went to the village and had a big meal of local chicken. This day was very tiring for everyone. It was already past 4 pm when we returned to Phoenix. Since we were going to Zhangjiajie early tomorrow morning, we went on a crazy shopping trip in the ancient city. (Silver bracelets are basically priced at 3 yuan per gram. Later, when we were on the train back, we met a local girl. She said that the locals bought them for 2 yuan per gram.) In the evening, we went to Heizai again for a feast. During the meal, there was a large fish head in the store, so I ordered a fish head hot pot, plus cured meat and steamed meat. It was so nostalgic. Hei Zai's dish was the most delicious.

Early the next morning, it was drizzling, and the ancient city showed us an appearance half-hidden by a pipa. The mist was steaming, and there was a slight drizzle, and big and small beads fell on the jade plate, as if it were like a city. At this moment, I had to admit its beauty and my reluctance to leave it. In fact, sometimes it just feels like that, just like what the saying says: When you fall in love with a place, it may be because of that exclusive moment. When you fall in love with someone, it may be because of certain moments and moods.

Actually, I can’t say what is particularly good about the ancient city. What I find more interesting are the two gates of the ancient city, one is the north gate of the pier, and the other is the At one gate in the city, they give people a sense of vicissitudes and ancient charm. Another part is the street scene from the tomb of Shen Congwen to Hongqiao. The buildings on both sides are integrated, making you feel like you are integrated into history.

It took about 2 hours to get from Fenghuang to Jishou. At ten o'clock on September 30, we had already arrived at Jishou Railway Station. There are many buses from Jishou to Zhangjiajie, so there is no need to worry about not being able to buy tickets. We took the 11 o'clock bus. Although it was a standing ticket, there were many empty seats on the bus, but you must be careful when getting on the bus. There are many thieves. The girl who got on the bus with us lost her phone and wallet in the chaos.

The scenery in Zhangjiajie is very beautiful, but we encountered heavy fog. God said to us: "Come again." We basically didn't see the scenery of Tianzi Mountain, so we had to go again.

Back in Beijing, faced with the heavy pressure of life, under the bright sunshine in March, I suddenly found that my days in Phoenix were so hurried, running so non-stop to various scenic spots, why did I do this in such a hurry? A peaceful place still cannot escape the rush and running that the city brings to me and has even become a habit. This is my sorrow, and it may be the sorrow of many people. I don’t know how many years later I can go to Phoenix and Duluo Village again, and I don’t know if I can still feel the peace and tranquility of Phoenix and the purity and harmony of Duluo Village.

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Phoenix Ancient City, haha, you are so good at choosing a place~

Objectively speaking, I and My boyfriend's relationship was born in Phoenix, so Phoenix is ??not only a tourist attraction for the two of us, but also a witness of our love. So it is inevitable that I may have some subjective things that may affect you. So here I just introduce it to you from my perspective, and I hope you can refer to it.

If this is your first time going to Phoenix, then I would like to congratulate you. Because you have chosen a very pleasant place at once. My boyfriend and I stay in Phoenix for a week every year. The approximate cost includes round-trip tickets for two people from Phoenix to Changsha, which is about 1,000.

Since you want to know more about Phoenix, I will take a moment to introduce to you in detail how to arrange food, accommodation and transportation in Phoenix! Of course, these are all based on my own supervisory experience, and you can refer to them for reference.

1. If it is your first time to go there, as expected, a few middle-aged women will come to you and ask if you have a place to stay. They are usually responsible for attracting guests. , but you don’t have to be too wary of them, they are still very simple, you can follow them to see the houses until you are satisfied with the environment and price. The stilted houses by the river generally cost 40-60 yuan, and other private houses cost about 20-30 yuan a night. The sanitation is pretty good.

I often live in the Wutong Guesthouse next to the Yang Family Ancestral Hall (there are photos of the rooms in my Baidu space, you can check them out). The environment on the third floor is good, all wooden decoration structures, very Beautiful, I’ll give you the phone number 0743-322 6187, 20 yuan/person (costs are very high during the peak seasons of May Day and National Day, and there are many people, so it’s best to go in the off-season)

2. For food, Phoenix Mainly acid. There is a saying: "If you don't eat acid for three days, you will stumble when you walk." If your finances allow, you can often try some of their specialties: fish with pickled vegetables, duck with blood cake, and community rice. The first two are mainly hot pots, which are delicious and cost about 35 yuan. You can eat communal meals at food stalls for 2 yuan a serving.

3. Special snacks:

Ginger candies, you can see the process of making ginger candies on the street, which is very interesting. Yang's ginger candy is relatively authentic and not expensive, costing about 8-10 yuan per pound.

Twisted candy is only available in recent years. It is mainly made of rice flour. It is called so because it is twisted from the middle. The taste is quite special, but the price is very expensive. You can reduce the price to 8-10 yuan is about the same.

Ice jelly powder, cool and sweet, I like it very much, about 1 yuan a serving.

Sour radish, in fact, the sour radish in the whole western Hunan region is pretty good, only one or two yuan.

Dried kiwi fruit, kiwi fruit is a local specialty, usually harvested in autumn. The locals sell it for a few cents per catty, and sell it to customers for about two yuan. The derivative products developed in the dried kiwi fruit market in recent years have a good taste and the price is more than ten yuan per catty.

4. There are several major attractions in the city, mainly the former residences and ancestral halls of celebrities. If you go to see them, you must buy a pass, because the 50-year income rights of these attractions have been acquired by the Fenghuang County Government for 833 million It was sold to Huanglongdong Co., Ltd. for monopoly operation, and the pass price is about 80 yuan. (Although I have been going here for many years, I have never been to any of these scenic spots. Haha, I am mainly interested in the combination of humanities and natural landscapes there, but it is up to the beholder to decide whether to see it or not)

5 You can visit Shen Congwen's cemetery. There is a gravekeeper there who has been guarding Mr. Shen's grave since the 1980s. He knows all about Mr. Shen's life and family affairs. If you can take care of the translation, then Chatting with him can still improve our understanding of Mr. Shen Congwen.

You can go boating from Shen Congwen Cemetery. The price is not expensive. You can go all the way to Taohua Island and back. It takes about 40 minutes and the price is about 10 yuan/person. If you have more people, you can negotiate the price.

Peach Blossom Island is a small island. I have been there several times but I haven’t seen any peach blossoms. Two years ago, it was contracted by a Zhejiang boss for redevelopment. I haven't seen how it is doing now. Maybe there are more places to spend money.

6. If you are a person who can get up early, it is recommended that you stay up early and go to the Jumping Rock in Phoenix. Standing on the jumping rock, watching the clear Tuojiang River flowing slowly into the distance, the stilted buildings in the distance are sometimes clear and sometimes blurry under the mist of Nanhua Mountain, giving you the feeling of being in a fairyland. The cuckoo will sing you the most beautiful morning song... Of course, everyone's mood is different, you can feel it yourself.

7. You can attend a bonfire party in the evening. There is a performance of Shangdao Mountain and Fire Sea. Miao customs, songs and dances are all available. The ticket price is 35/person, and you can also negotiate the price.

8. If you are selling things from small stalls in Fenghuang, you should pay attention. The aunties there charge very high prices. A pair of earrings costs more than ten yuan, and you usually give them 2-4 yuan. The money is about the same, but it also depends on the location. It won’t sell it to you cheaply in places with many people, but it can be sold to streets with few people.

9. Silver jewelry: It is a must-buy item for tourists coming to Fenghuang. The silver jewelry purchased in the silver jewelry stores in Fenghuang are now very expensive, about 8 yuan/gram, which is the same as the price in other cities. There are also silver jewelry sellers on the street stalls, but of course the quality and price vary! Some of the silver ornaments there are made of iron, some are made of alloy, and they may contain a little bit of silver.

Let me teach you a few ways to identify silver jewelry: (I learned it from the locals, it may not be scientific)

First, if jewelry with a lot of silver content falls on the ground, The sound will not be very loud and there will be no echo. This requires comparison to distinguish.

Second, silver jewelry is very soft and has very good ductility. You can feel it by bending your hand

Thirdly, jewelry containing silver can leave gray marks on the lime wall.

There is Mengdong River rafting near Fenghuang. The price is more than 100 yuan, which is said to be quite good. When you get there, the boss of the place where you live can contact you and negotiate with her on the price, including travel expenses and tickets.

I just spent a few days in Phoenix with my family a few days ago. Phoenix is ??currently repairing sewer pipes. If you look at the Tuojiang River, the scenery may be a little affected. However, sewer pipes can make the water in Tuojiang River clearer and improve its quality.

Having said all this, I have only one purpose, which is to hope that you can fall in love with Phoenix as much as I do and have a perfect trip!

In my Baidu space, there are many photos of Phoenix scenery that I took. You can take a look. Finally, I wish you a happy trip!

You can also check out other travel notes on this website. I am their loyal member, ＾＾

Check it out, it’s really good!

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