The production methods and production processes of ancient costumes in the past. It’s better to have pictures

The Age of Myths and Legends The legendary ancient emperor Xuanyuan Huangdi unified the Chinese tribes. Under his rule, there was political stability, cultural progress, a strong country, and many inventions and creations. Legend has it that Leizu, the Yellow Emperor's concubine, was the first to raise silkworms to make silk and weave silk, thus inventing Hanfu. Lei Zu's clothes are popular all over the world, and her silk is beautiful in China. Since the Western Zhou Dynasty, she has been regarded as the mother ancestor of China and revered as the ancestor of silkworms. In ancient times, the origin of clothing was practical. After the Stone Age, people mastered the methods of making and using tools, and invented bone awls and bone needles. Thus creating original clothing. About five thousand years ago, people's lives became increasingly stable, and primitive agriculture and textile industries emerged. They began to use woven linen to make clothes. Later, silkworm feeding and silk spinning were invented, and people's clothing became increasingly complete.

Xia Dynasty The Xia Dynasty was the first dynasty in the history of our country. Their clothing has a distinct color of religious belief. The clear shape of the upper garment and lower garment represents the sky. Because the sky is black when it is not clear, the upper garment is black, and the lower garment symbolizes the earth. Since the earth is yellow, the lower garment is used. yellow. The Xia Dynasty established a clothing system centered on the emperor's sacrificial attire—mianfu. Its form, color, and pattern all originated from the respect for heaven and earth and the pursuit of the order of heaven and earth. Shang Dynasty The Shang Dynasty was the first dynasty in China with written records. According to numerous archaeological discoveries, the basic style of Hanfu during this period has been fully formed. The clothing of this period mainly consisted of two parts, the top and the lower part (skirt). The cuffs are narrow and have no buttons. A wide belt is tied around the waist, and a skirt-like "knee cover" is added in front of the waist to cover the knees. The colors of fabrics in this period were mostly warm colors, especially yellow and red, with brown and brown in between, but this does not mean that there are no cool colors such as blue and green. It's just that the red and yellow colors made of cinnabar and stone yellow are more vivid than other colors and have stronger penetration, so they remain unchanged for a long time and have been preserved to this day. According to modern scientific and technological analysis, the dyeing and weaving methods of the Shang and Zhou dynasties often used a combination of dyeing and painting, especially red, yellow and other positive colors. Painting was often added with a paintbrush after the fabric was woven. The clothing form of the Shang Dynasty used a top and lower skirt system, generally with small sleeves, and the length of the clothes was mostly around the knees. Before the Western Zhou Dynasty, the upper and lower garments were made into two parts: one part was worn on the upper body and was called clothing. The undershirt was a short coat. There were two types of short coats, one at the waist and the other at the knees. The undershirt was what most people usually wear. Wear; wear a section on the lower body, called a shang. The pleats on the back of the clothes, the underskirt, etc. are all remnants of this kind of clothing. Folk women's clothing is generally the same as men's clothing, except for an apron tied under the waist, which is no longer than the knee. It's called 蜜. Zhou Dynasty The Zhou Dynasty founded the country based on the feudal system, consolidated the empire with a strict class system, and formulated a very detailed set of etiquette to regulate society and stabilize the world. Clothing is a symbol of everyone's class, so the clothing system is one of the foundations of government, and the regulations are very strict.

The costumes of the Zhou Dynasty generally followed the clothing system of the Shang Dynasty with slight changes. The style is slightly looser than that of the Shang Dynasty. The sleeves are available in two styles, large and small, and the collar is generally crossed to the right. No buttons are used, and it is usually tied at the waist. During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, an important type of Hanfu - deep clothing - was born. Shenyi is a straight-style long robe. The clothes and clothes are connected together to cover the body. They are cut separately but sewn up and down. It is named because of the "deep quilt body". Shenyi continues the characteristic of Hanfu that the collar is folded on the right side, and has a great influence on society. It can be worn by men and women of high and low status, as well as civil and military positions. Skirts are divided into two styles: curved and straight. The difference in appearance lies in whether there are lines surrounding the lower body. During this period, textile and dyeing technology had become very advanced, and many complicated and gorgeous patterns appeared on Hanfu. Qin Dynasty Due to the development of productivity, the costumes of the Qin and Han Dynasties became increasingly sophisticated and the clothes became more and more gorgeous. In terms of women's clothing, there are deep clothes for formal wear and skirts for daily use. Shenyi changed from the fatness during the Warring States Period to become thin and narrow. The skirt is long enough to reach the floor, and the hem is usually in a trumpet shape so that the bare feet are not exposed when walking. The sleeves come in two forms: wide and narrow, and the cuffs are mostly edged. The collar part is very distinctive, usually crossing from left to right, and the neckline is very low, revealing the inner garment. Working women always wear short jackets, long skirts, and long hanging belts. Mainly inherited from the influence of the previous dynasty, the robe is still the typical clothing style, which is divided into two types: curved train and straight train. The sleeves also come in two styles: long and short. In the Qin Dynasty, there was little difference in the shape of clothing in daily life between men and women. They were all large-breasted and narrow-sleeved. The difference was that men had leather belts around their waists with hooks at the ends, while women's waists were only tied with ribbons. In the Qin and Han dynasties, black was regarded as a noble color, and black was also used as a fashionable color in clothing. Han Dynasty: In the Han Dynasty, the deep and curved garments were not only worn by men, but were also the most common style of clothing among women. This kind of clothing is tight and narrow, long and can reach the floor. The hem is usually in the shape of a trumpet, so that no feet are exposed. The sleeves come in two styles: wide and narrow, and the cuffs are mostly edged. The collar part is usually cross-collared, and the neckline is very low, revealing the inner garment. The narrow-sleeved, tight-fitting deep-breasted garments of the Han Dynasty were twisted several times around the hips, tied with silk ribbons, and painted with exquisite ornate patterns. Can be worn by both men and women. It appeared in the Western Han Dynasty and cannot be used as a formal dress. As clothing became more sophisticated, the form of pants improved. Due to the improvement of underwear, deep garments with curved trains and lapels have become redundant. After the Eastern Han Dynasty, straight trains gradually replaced deep garments. The style of women's clothing with upper skirt and upper skirt has already appeared in the Warring States Period. The style of underskirts in the Han Dynasty was generally very short, only reaching the waist, while the skirt was very long, hanging down to the floor.

Ruqun is one of the most important forms of Chinese women's clothing. From the Warring States Period to the Ming Dynasty, more than two thousand years ago, although the length, width and width changed from time to time, the basic shape always maintained the original style. The dyeing and weaving technology of the Han Dynasty developed rapidly. The progress of dyeing and weaving technology was the basis for the improvement of the quality of clothing in the Han Dynasty. In the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, celebrities advocated nature and detachment, were frank and free-spirited, and were romantic and self-admired. During this period, it was fashionable for men to wear wide shirts with large sleeves and wide belts. There are obvious differences in style between shirts and robes. According to Han custom, the sleeve ends of the robe should be narrowed, with cuffs removed, and the cuffs should be wide. Women's clothing inherits the customs of the Qin and Han Dynasties, and has been improved by absorbing the characteristics of ethnic minority costumes. The characteristics are: double-breasted, waist-cinched, wide sleeves, and embellished with different-colored edges on the cuffs, placket, and hem, and a striped and inter-colored skirt. , tied around the waist with a silk belt. The body part is tight and fitted, the cuffs are enlarged, the skirt is multi-pleated, floor-length, and the hem is loose. Miscellaneous clothing during the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties: This kind of clothing is quite different from that of the Han Dynasty. Add some accessories to the hem of the clothes, usually made of silk fabric. It is characterized by being wide at the top and pointed like a triangle at the bottom, with layers stacked on top of each other. In addition, because the streamers protruding from the skirt are relatively long, they look like swallows flying when walking. By the Northern and Southern Dynasties, this kind of clothing had changed again. The streamers trailing to the ground were removed, and the sharp "swallow tail" was lengthened, so that the two became one.

The basic style of pleated trousers is to wear a knee-length sleeveless shirt on the upper body and fat trousers on the lower body. The fabric of this kind of clothing is usually made of thicker woolen cloth. Wearing trousers and a short undershirt are collectively called underpants. However, feudal nobles had to wear robes on top of underpants. Only those who were engaged in labor, such as horsemen and servants, directly exposed their trousers for the convenience of movement. Feudal nobles were not allowed to wear shorts and trousers when going out. It was not until the Jin Dynasty that this habit changed. The trousers of the Northern and Southern Dynasties include large-mouthed trousers and small-mouthed trousers. Large-mouthed trousers are fashionable. Wearing large-mouthed trousers makes it inconvenient to move. Therefore, brocade belts are used to tie the trouser legs, which is also called tied trousers.

Sui and Tang Dynasties Clothing in the Sui and Tang Dynasties showed their open-mindedness and pioneering spirit, reflecting the distinct characteristics of the times and strong national character. The underskirt was the main style of clothing for women in the Tang Dynasty. In the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women wore short undershirts with small sleeves and tight-fitting long skirts tied at the waist with ribbons. Silk shawl, also known as "painted silk", is usually made of thin gauze with printed patterns and is more than two meters long. When used, it is draped over the shoulders and coiled between the arms. Women in the Tang Dynasty regarded plumpness as their beauty. The width of the skirt is much wider than that in the late Sui and early Tang Dynasties. The round collar style appeared very early, and it was not until the Sui and Tang Dynasties that it became popular as official uniform. It continued in the Tang, Five Dynasties, Song, and Ming dynasties, and had a great influence on Japan, Goryeo and other countries. In the Tang Dynasty, it was fashionable for men to wear futou robes. Futou, also known as Futou, is a type of headdress based on the Han and Wei turbans. After the Tang Dynasty, people added a fixed ornament called "scarf" inside the futou. Its shape varies from period to period. In addition to the scarf, there are many changes in the two feet of the futou. In the late Tang and Five Dynasties, it has changed from soft feet to hard feet, one on the left and one on the left. Even in the Tang Dynasty when it was most popular, it was mostly limited to the area centered on Chang'an, and Among officials, members of the royal family, as well as in areas such as Wuyue and ordinary people, this kind of Hanfu is mainly worn with a large collar and a right fold. Officials in the Tang Dynasty, in addition to wearing round-neck narrow-sleeved robes, also wore formal attire on some important occasions. The style of the dress is mostly inherited from the old system of the Sui Dynasty. Round-neck Hanfu, like cross-neck Hanfu, is an important part of Han nationality costumes. After the prosperous Tang Dynasty, the influence of Hu clothing weakened, and the styles of women's clothing became increasingly broad. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, the average sleeve width of women was more than four feet. The aristocratic dresses of the middle and late Tang Dynasty were generally worn on important occasions. Wearing this kind of dress, there are gold and green hairpins in the hair, which is also called "hairpin dress". The style of the large-sleeved blouse is with large sleeves and double breasts, and is worn with a long skirt and a shawl. The use of gauze as the material for women's clothing was a feature of Tang Dynasty clothing, which was closely related to the open-mindedness of the time. Song Dynasty Generally speaking, the clothing of the Song Dynasty can be divided into two categories: official clothing and civilian clothing. Official uniforms are divided into court uniforms and public uniforms. The imperial attire is used for important occasions such as court gatherings and sacrifices. They all wear red clothes and red clothes, and are worn and lined with clothes of different colors and textures, as well as corresponding crowns. The official uniform is the official uniform, which is round-necked, with large sleeves, a leather belt around the waist, a futou on the head, and leather shoes or silk and linen shoes on the feet. Common people were only allowed to wear white clothes, and later officials, officials, and common people were allowed to wear black clothes. But in real life, folk clothes are colorful and not restricted at all. In the Song Dynasty, ordinary women wore coats, jackets, shirts, backs, half-arms, skirts, trousers, etc. Women mainly wear skirts, but they also wear trousers. Women's clothing is similar to that of the Han Dynasty. They are all long and thin, with narrow sleeves, crossed collars, and various long skirts in light colors. The undergarments and jackets are relatively short, with a skirt on the lower body. The colors are often red and purple, followed by yellow. The styles of Ru skirts in the Song Dynasty are roughly the same as those in the Tang Dynasty. The decoration on the body is not complicated. In addition to the shawl, a jade ring is added to the ribbon worn in the middle of the waist. This is mainly to hold down the skirt and prevent it from fluttering in the wind when walking or moving. As for the aesthetic effect, what the history books call "Yuhuan Shou" is this kind of decoration.

Dongzi was popular in the Song Dynasty, with long sleeves, long body, and open hips under the arms. That is, the front and back of the clothes were not sewn, but were decorated with straps under the arms and behind. The double straps under the armpits could have tied the front and back pieces of clothing together, and were hung for decoration in the Song Dynasty. When wearing a robe, tie it with a piece of silk around the waist. There are three types of collars: straight collar and lapel collar, diagonal collar and lapel collar, and plate collar and lapel collar. The straight collar type is the most common. The two styles of diagonal collar and plate collar are only worn by men under public uniforms, while women wear straight collar and double-breasted style. The jackets worn by women in the Song Dynasty were short at first, then lengthened, and developed into sleeves larger than the shirt and as long as the skirt. In the Yuan Dynasty, robes were the main style. The daily attire of officials and common people was mostly narrow-sleeved robes. During the banquet, all officials of the emperor wore uniform colors of clothing, which was called "Zhengsunfu". Women's clothing in the Yuan Dynasty was divided into two types: noble and common. Most of the nobles are Mongolians, who wear fur coats and hats as their national costumes, mostly made of mink skin and sheepskin. Most of them are loose robes with sleeves shaped like lanterns, with narrow cuffs and wide sleeves. The shoulder decoration of this robe is very gorgeous. The fabric texture is very exquisite, using brocade, velvet and felt fabrics, and the color is mostly red. Ming Dynasty The costumes of the Ming Dynasty were dignified and graceful, and were a model of ancient Chinese costume art. The styles, patterns, and colors of today's Chinese opera costumes are mostly from Ming Dynasty costumes. In the Ming Dynasty, the clothes and clothes were more luxurious, the weaving and embroidery skills reached their peak, and the cultural connotation was richer. Cotton is the main raw material for clothing. In the Ming Dynasty, women's tops were elongated, skirts shortened, and round collars were the dominant style. The skirt has embroidered edges for decoration. The women's uniform system is more complete. There is a special style of Peizi, which is as beautiful as the colorful clouds, and is called "Xia Pei". Together with the "phoenix crown", it has become the most representative dress for ladies. Ordinary civilian women wear the phoenix crown and harem when they get married. In the Ming Dynasty, the upper skirt and lower skirt clothing was popular among young women, and a short waist skirt was added to facilitate movement. The upper jacket is a cross-collar, long-sleeved short jacket. The color of the skirt is light at first. The skirt width is six at first and eight at the end. There are many fine pleats on the waist, and the movements are like water patterns. In the late Ming Dynasty, the pleats on the waist became denser, and each pleat had a color. When the breeze blew, the color was like moonlight, so it was called "Moonlight Skirt". A "palace ribbon" made of ribbons is hung on the belt, with several loops tied in the middle, and then drooped to the ground to hold down the skirt. Its function is similar to the jade ring ribbon of the Song Dynasty. Officials wear black gauze hats, futou, and long robes with coiled collars and narrow sleeves. "Pan collar" is a high collar with a round edge. This kind of robe was the main style of clothing for men in the Ming Dynasty. It could be worn not only by officials but also by common people, but the color was different. Twenty-five years after the founding of the Ming Dynasty, all civil and military officials, regardless of rank, were required to have patches on the chest and back of their robes to show distinction. This is the most distinctive attire among the official uniforms of the Ming Dynasty. The official uniforms worn in the Ming Dynasty had a coiled collar with right gusset and sleeves three feet wide. The patterns and colors used in the robes vary depending on the level. The above costumes, combined with the foot-spreading futou, are mostly used in important court gatherings.

Qing Dynasty After the Qing Dynasty entered the customs, short and narrow sleeves, simple and solemn Manchu flag clothes gained a dominant position in clothing. The characteristics are material saving, easy production and convenient wearing. Qing Dynasty cheongsam mostly had a round collar, with buttons on the right side, usually five. The sleeves and body are straight, and the placket, collar and sleeve edges are decorated with wide-edge patterns, making the overall look more conservative. The personality characteristics of cheongsam in different periods. Men's clothing in the Qing Dynasty mainly included robes, coats, coats, shirts, trousers, etc. There is a kind of "waistcoat" or "waistcoat", which is worn by both men and women. Generally worn inside, the style is narrow. A multi-button vest with borders on all sides and a horizontal row of buttons on the front, with thirteen buttons. It is commonly known as the "one-line" vest, or the "Thirteen Taibao". Qing Dynasty gowns were generally collarless, and a hard collar was required on the gown when worn. Light lake-colored satin is used in the spring and autumn, and velvet or leather is used in the winter. It is called a "collar coat" and is shaped like a cow's tongue, commonly known as "cow tongue". The material is cloth or satin, with a front placket, fastened with buttons, and tied around the waist. There is also a kind that is shaped like a water chestnut with patterns embroidered on it, and is mostly used in official court uniforms. The clothing of Han women in the early period was still the same as that in the late Ming Dynasty. After continuous evolution, it forms the characteristics of a generation. All concubines and concubines wear phoenix crowns and Xia pei. In addition to "borrowing" this kind of clothing for weddings and burials, ordinary women wear cloaks and coats and skirts as dresses for other occasions. Paoshan (cheongsam) is also popular among Han women, but Manchu women's clothing is not as generous as Han women's. Manchu women's clothing is generally narrow and slender, often with a waistcoat on the outside. During the Republic of China, men's clothing in the early years of the Republic of China mainly used mandarin jackets and gowns. The mandarins and gowns used as formal wear have certain patterns in style, material, color and specific size. In early spring or late autumn, a sleeveless vest is often added to the gown to replace the mandarin jacket. Intellectuals and young students like to wear a simple suit, which is called "student uniform". Wearing this kind of clothing can give people a sense of solemnity and elegance. Mr. Sun Yat-sen liked to wear this kind of clothing very much. After a slight modification, it became popular and was respectfully called "Mao suit". The most distinctive feature of women's clothing is the cheongsam. Since the 1920s, cheongsam has become popular in Shanghai and gradually spread to other places. However, the style of cheongsam has not yet emerged from the cheongsam in the late Qing Dynasty. By the late 1920s, influenced by European and American clothing, the style of cheongsam changed significantly. Developed into the 1930s, cheongsam styles widely absorbed the characteristics of suits on the basis of tradition, and continued to innovate and change. The changes in cheongsam were first to have high collars, then to low collars. The same goes for the sleeves. Sometimes long sleeves are popular; sometimes short sleeves are popular. As for the length of the cheongsam, there are many changes. The long style was once popular, and later it was changed to the short style.

Generally speaking, the costumes of each dynasty are constantly developing, and their characteristics are distinct and different, reflecting the cultural characteristics of different dynasties and people's aesthetic concepts, as well as the wisdom of mankind in different periods. Due to the relationship between ethnic groups and regions, the costumes of each dynasty incorporate different characteristics, which is why Chinese culture is so colorful, colorful and colorful. Wandering among these various and beautiful ancient Chinese costumes, we can better understand the charm and connotation, breadth and profoundness of ancient Chinese culture. It can be said that "this garment should only be found in heaven."