"Cloud. Tour "One Man's Huangshan Mountain (End) Westward Journey Scenic Area"

Tang Xianzu, a dramatist in Ming Dynasty, broke his friend's promise many times and wrote a poem lamenting for Range Rover to travel to Huizhou:

If you want to know gold and silver, swim from yellow to white. I have never dreamed of Huizhou in my life.

This poem reflects Mr. Tang's attitude towards ancient Huizhou, let alone, but now it has really become a signboard of Huizhou, which is talked about by every Huizhou tour guide and tourist who comes to Huizhou.

I went to Huangshan Mountain, where I didn't see Yue, and I walked through Huizhou, where there was no dream. I shouldn't regret that Mr. Tang doesn't understand gold and silver. On the day I left southern Anhui, although I was very tired, I made up a "trip to Huangbai" willfully and climbed up Yun Qi, which was called "Baiyue" in ancient times.

Say goodbye to Xidi village early in the morning, take a taxi to Yixian at the entrance of the village, and get on the bus there and go back to Tunxi. At the end of Xiuning, the driver made a signal with the lips and said to me, "Here, Yun Qi".

I watched curiously as a busload of people got off the bus and limped towards Yanjiao Village. I sprained my ankle climbing Huangshan Mountain. After a few days of rest, I didn't see much improvement. Fortunately, I don't think Yun Qi Mountain is too high, so I still have some confidence.

When we approached the bank of Hengjiang River, we saw a multi-arch stone bridge across the river. The arch of Shiqiao Bridge closed into a complete circle against the calm river surface, and the farmer with the cow walked safely from the flat bridge. The clear river flows quietly under the round hole, and with the thin morning fog, the Huizhou village with white walls and Daiwa, the beautiful mountains and rivers and the green forest behind the village constitute a fresh and quiet watercolor painting. I have seen it before, perhaps in a documentary or in a photographic work.

That bridge is called Dengfeng Bridge, and it goes up the hill when you walk over it.

02

Yamamoto is not as hard as Huangshan Mountain, but the mountain road is still long, and gradually there is no calmness, and gradually the clothes are soaked and the breath is heavy. Later, I learned from the villagers that Shangyun had "thirteen pavilions in nine miles". I recalled that there were indeed many pavilions along the way, but I didn't count them. I just think they are endless. Sometimes I go through it nonstop, and sometimes I can't remember them when I sit down.

Because it is not a holiday, there are not many tourists here, or there are only two, one is me and the other is to accompany me up the mountain. We stop and go, pass by, and always smile at each other in mutual appreciation, which is a kind of mutual encouragement.

There are a few noisy local children on this mountain road. What makes me curious is that everyone has a small pole on his shoulder, and three or less red bricks are tied to both ends of the pole. I didn't know what to pay attention to, so I took one of the little girls and asked, she said she would go up the mountain to see her classmates, and her house was being built, so I gave it to her by the way.

I smiled and said, then you are not a child laborer. She doesn't understand. She just said that going up the mountain is a waste anyway, and it's useless not to take something.

The last pavilion, I remember, was called Wang Xianting, which was also the gate of the park. The couplets on both sides of the gate were inscribed by Qianlong:

Westward Journey to Shengjing

The first famous mountain in Jiangnan

It is "the world" and "the first", but I deeply doubt that the Lord has ever been here.

Enter the gate, cross Taohuaxi, and arrive at the cave. Habitat is really under the rock, met a fellow villager, the little girl carrying two bricks, but the burden has been changed to the shoulder of the fellow villager.

Seeing me coming, the fellow traveler said with a smile, bring a companion, and we can take care of each other when we walk together.

Accustomed to a person's journey, walking can also be cranky, but since people warmly invited me, I nodded with a smile. Later, I learned that the fellow villager, surnamed Gao, was a cadre in Tongling City. He was on a business trip to Tunxi, and a friend of Tunxi newspaper gave him a complimentary ticket, so he took the trouble to go to the mountain for the nth time.

"They don't have any other benefits here. Every time they come, they will give me tickets to Mount Yun Qi. He gave them once and I climbed once, "Lao Gao said.

"You are an honest man", I smiled and was flattered.

"I like climbing mountains. Do you climb mountains in Beijing? "

"Beijing is surrounded by mountains."

Is there such a mountain? Seeing him blink and smile, I knew I was trapped by him.

"Who dares to challenge Anhui people with you? Ha! "

03

We help the little girl choose bricks, and the little girl helps us as a guide. Everywhere I go, I will timidly say a word in dialect. I don't quite understand, Lao Gao, translate it for me.

From their mouth, they learned that there are three cliff carvings in the cave, namely, Qizhen Rock, Zhonglie Rock and Shouzi Cliff. Qizhen Rock is the place where Qixia real people practice, and Zhonglie Rock is the place where local villagers worship Guan Gong. On Shouzi Cliff in another place, there is a huge word "Shou", which is quite spectacular. Lao Gao said, "This is written by Empress Dowager Cixi. It is a treasure in this mountain."

Shouziya is a one-day gate. It is called Tianmen, but it is actually a cave made of huge stones in the mountains.

When I passed Tianmen, I suddenly saw half a sinkhole surrounded by purple cliffs on three sides, and four big characters-Tiankai Shen Xiu were engraved on the opposite stone wall.

Around the road under the cliff, there are many caves dug on the cliff, most of which are places where Taoist priests used to practice. Nowadays, immortals are also enshrined here, such as the Eight Immortals in Eight Immortals Cave and Guanyin in Tongyuan Cave. Another example is the true Emperor Wu of Luohan Cave and the Dragon Master of Yujun Cave ... So this place is also called Xian Zhen Cave House, and I think it is like a fairy tale street.

When we finished worshipping all the immortals, the little girl standing by urged us to look back. God, I don't know when most of the purple rock walls opposite turned into carved red elephants. It's lifelike. The gate of the day is just a gap between the elephant's nose and its front legs.

I told the little girl that I was lucky not to be kicked by an elephant. Lao Gao was more humorous and said, "If it leaves, we can't get off Yun Qi." The little girl who didn't talk or laugh all the way snorted and smiled. Obviously, he prefers tall stalks.

Bypass the censer peak, and after two days, you can see Yuehua Street on the mountain. There is a white village among the mountains with green mountains and green waters. When I first saw it, I thought of Lao Guo's poem-the market in the sky.

04

On the way, I chatted with Lao Gao about the famous Taoist mountains. Lao Gao said that the essence of Yun Qi culture lies in Yuehua Street.

It is said that Cumulus was originally a famous mountain occupied by monks. Later, Zhang Sanfeng, a Taoist priest, traveled here and saw through the mystery between Tai Chi mountains and rivers, so he sent himself to Jiyun. Since then, Taoist incense has flourished here. Yuehua Street has increasingly become a mountain village where Taoist priests, villagers and pilgrims live together.

Three days later, I came to the street. The little girl pointed to a construction site in the distance and said that she had arrived. I smiled and invited her to continue as a tour guide. She shook her head shyly. Lao Gao asked her if she wanted to go to Beijing, and her answer was straightforward. Of course, she wants to go, but she wants to go by herself.

I took out a packet of biscuits from my backpack and handed it to her. She didn't speak, bowed her head and rubbed her hands shyly. We put cookies into her hand, but she didn't speak, just sipped her mouth and smiled. After a long walk, looking back, she was still there watching us, waving to her, as if still smiling.

Along the antique Qingshiban Road, we crossed Yuehua Street, glanced at Tai Su Palace, and then rushed to Changsheng Building. From there, I climbed the zhongfeng, then crossed the zixiao peak, and finally reached the highest peak.

The highest peak, Langya, has the reputation of "a stone inserted into the sky and integrated with the cloud" since ancient times, hence the name Yun Qi. In fact, it is the highest peak parallel to the cloud, but it is only 585 meters above sea level. What is really amazing is its steep cliff.

Unlike those resolute granite cliffs, no matter how steep they are, they are only vertical. The purple sandy cliff face of corridor cliff has been eroded and washed by natural forces in the long geological evolution. On the one hand, the sail was blown full by the wind, and the whole huge mountain peak, the windward side of the sail, fell forward like a huge wave about to collapse.

Humorous and naughty, he said, "Let's go, I'm afraid this mountain will collapse." I said, "If it collapses, will the local people think that we have done something wrong?" Everyone walked quickly with a smile, but their hearts were thinking about getting out of this dangerous place.

Crossing the corridor cliff, we meandered along the stone path on the mountainside. The peaks of Yun Qi face each other across the gorge, and we have a panoramic view of Danxia landform.

Danxia landform is formed by sedimentary rocks and is purplish red because it is rich in iron oxide. The original form of Danxia landform is horizontal bedrock. Due to the dual effects of flowing water erosion and gravity collapse, it took hundreds of millions of years to carve the landform.

Danxia landform is characterized by gentle lower layer, steep middle part and flat top, just like walking in a strange forest. Southern Anhui is different from the north, with humid climate, dense vegetation and lush scenery, which is more beautiful against the bare Chibi and Chibi.

05

Walking two or three miles east from the highest peak, we came to the foot of Dushang Peak, climbed the steep stone wall of Cui Wei along the stone steps, and arrived at Fang La Village.

Gao told me that Fang La refused to go to Zhaofu, because he refused to keep this barrier, and 150,000 Song Junnai could not. Later, he was betrayed by a traitor, was deprived of food and water, and had to leave ... I think this seems to be more insurmountable than estrangement, or heart!

The word "Fang La Village" is engraved on the boulder on the summit, and there are three stone statues standing on it. Lao Gao told me that Fang La is the one with a broadsword in the middle, a monk on the left is a strategist, and a woman on the right is Fang La's sister.

I saw the monk holding a ball in his hand and asked Lao Gao for advice. What is the moral? Lao Gao laughed and joked that it was a Tai Chi ball. I'm still curious, why is a monk holding Artest's balloon? He defended himself with a simple smile. Look at that Yuehua Street. Integration of Confucianism, Buddhism and Taoism. The old monk can naturally borrow the old Tai Chi ball. Then, everyone will laugh heartily.

Lao Gao's witty remarks always make people laugh. Along the way, we talked about historical figures and geographical customs, and felt congenial.

Sitting in the pavilion at the top of the mountain, Yun Qi can have a panoramic view of the vast beauty. Lao Gao told me that this is not the best scenery in Yun Qi. When the clouds come up, the sea of clouds is like Huangshan Mountain. However, the sun is shining today, which is very suitable for watching Danxia Red Cliff in the sunset, but I guess you can't wait.

"According to your old meaning, this trip came in vain."

He smiled and said, "Almost, be sure to come again."

I know what he means, lest I underestimate this place. In fact, where did he know? What I don't agree with most is the comment made by later generations in the name of Mr. Xu Lao that "Huangshan returns without looking at Yue". Every mountain has its beauty. Only when you have been there can you understand it. How can it be summarized?

I came down from the top of the mountain and hit it. My foot injury is getting worse and worse, and the pain continues.

On the way back to Changshou Building, you can see the Five Old Peaks and Five Peak Clusters in the distance, such as five birthday stars gathering together and looking around, which are lifelike. There is also a natural bridge, flying between two peaks, as lifelike as artificial construction. The amazing nature is really amazing. I hate that I don't have the time and strength to walk once.

Lao Gao comforted me and said, you'd better not go. It's for the gods. I asked him if immortals should walk, too. He thought for a moment and said that the lame fairy who can't fly should still be needed, and then he smiled badly.

When I arrived at Changshenglou, I saw the introduction of "Floating Across the River". I thought I would drift down the mountain. Although thrilling, but also exciting, but also save shoes, just tell Lao Gao. Lao Gao said that he could see the scenery below the mountain from the ladder, but he left his bag in the Wang Xian Pavilion and couldn't go with him.

However, he still doesn't trust my legs and feet. He accompanied me to the rafting ticket office. After seeing that I bought the ticket, he said goodbye and told me to be careful, careful and careful again.

Lao Gao is really a good donkey friend, a good chatting friend, and a good man!

06

Xu Xiake wrote in the diary of You Baiyue:

"... down the stairs, surrounded by cliffs on three sides, covered by a cover and embedded under it, it is absolutely like a corridor ...".

I went down from the ladder and saw a strange scenery. I was so excited that I turned around and shouted, but the others had already left. No one came to share the scenery of understanding during the trip, which made me sad enough to leave tears.

Down the ladder, there is Yunyan Lake in front. I rested by the lake and had a panoramic view of the green mountains and green waters. But only one person can see such green mountains and green waters, which makes me feel lonely. I lit a cigarette, and all the people and things I met along the way these days were brave in my heart. Xiaoyu hummed Henan folk songs while looking at the small mirror. Old Hou anxiously told me to come up quickly. I can see the Yellow Sea here, an old lady told me. Speaking of business, I want to go to his house for dinner at noon ... plop, my G3 camera fell into the emerald pool ... I'm going home. I sat by the lake, facing the green mountains and green waters, and said, let's say goodbye here.

The lake can't find the imaginary drifting point, so we have to continue walking down and limp along a mountain road to the foot of the mountain alone. Only when I got there did I understand that the so-called drifting was only on the Hengjiang River and had nothing to do with the mountains? This makes me laugh and cry, but it's okay.

On the bank of Hengjiang River, an old boatman sat lazily on a bamboo raft. When he saw me coming down, he asked "how many people". I was thirsty and tired, so I only raised one finger as an answer. The boatman was a little disappointed, nagging "anything else"? I shook my hand and said, "No, there are only two tourists in the mountain, and the other one has already left the gate."

The old man kindly pushed a raft into the river.

Rafts are made of thick bamboos tied side by side with bamboo chairs tied to them. The old boatman held on slowly with a cigarette in his mouth. I sat on the edge of the raft with my feet in the water and felt very cold. The pain in my feet seems to disappear at once because of the fatigue of the journey. The clear and transparent river flows slowly from the foot, which makes people itch, as if there are countless small fish chasing and pecking.

I can't see the scenery, but I found a rare mood on the Hengjiang River. There are large green rice fields by the river, and green hills wrapped in green velvet in the distance. In the place where they can't wrap, the red cliff of Chibi is exposed, as red as a cloud on the horizon.

Rafts slowly walk on the Qingjiang River, and some mountains with different personalities appear and some leave, just like a long scroll of ink and wash, which makes people dizzying. Watching, people are tired, tired, just lying on the boat, only when there are blue sky and white clouds, warm sunshine in the afternoon and waves beating against the boat. ...

07

The old boatmen asked me where I came from one by one.

I said, Beijing.

He said that the eldest son was in Hangzhou and the youngest son was in Beijing.

I said, just you old couple, aren't you tired?

He said he was used to it. The year before last 10, a younger son came to pick him up and stayed for a few days. He didn't like the smell of gasoline on the road, so he came back.

I said, my nose is old, I don't care about anything, I can't smell bad, I can't smell incense.

He asked me where to go next.

I said, where does this river lead?

He said it flows to Xin 'anjiang, Qiandao Lake, Jiande, Fuyang and Hangzhou.

I said, they are all good places, so let's go, shall we?

He smiled and said, why not? I just want to say hello to my wife.

I said, me too.

He said, if your feet are not good, let's take you to Duran, where it's easy to stop.

I said, Duran, what a beautiful name.

He said, that's what you people who come to play say.

......

When I arrived in Duran, the old man said don't worry, it's not too late to dry my feet. He rolled me a cigarette and I took it. The cigarette holder is wet, spicy and choking, but it can slowly melt people like toffee, melt in the breeze on the river, and then be blown endlessly.

After drying my feet and putting on socks and shoes, the old man saw that I was leaving, and hurried off the raft barefoot and found a stone to pad in the mud ... which made me unexpected, grateful and deeply guilty. I shouldn't have let this old man go for me.

08

Then I rushed to the side of the road from Duran. When I looked back, I saw the Dengfeng Bridge across the Hengjiang River, leaving many circles on the calm river. I seem to see myself limping across the bridge, the distant mountain is still there, and the clouds have drifted to its mountainside.

Lao Gao said that the sea of clouds in this mountain is not inferior to Huangshan Mountain.

Without waiting for a closer look, a bus stopped suddenly and the conductor asked him if he wanted to go to Tunxi.

I bid farewell to the mountains and rivers of Huangshan, got on the bus in a hurry and rushed to Tunxi, which is now Huangshan City.

In the middle of the night that day, I went back to Beijing. The girl who picked bricks "of course went by herself". The old boatman couldn't smell gasoline on the road because there was no mountain for Lao Gao to climb.

* * * * All the pictures in this article are from the Internet, thanks to the author!

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I'm Yunxing Notebook, and I'm here to create my own "cultural journey". Come on a trip with a sense of words!