Shooting from the window always feels that the camera is not as powerful as the naked eye. For example, the curtain is partially open, and it is dark indoors and bright outdoors. The naked eye can sti

Shooting from the window always feels that the camera is not as powerful as the naked eye. For example, the curtain is partially open, and it is dark indoors and bright outdoors. The naked eye can still see it at the same time. In addition to the physical characteristics similar to optical lenses, human vision also has the physiological and psychological characteristics of vision, which can never be realized by intelligent digital cameras. The human eye is like a fixed focus, but it has the ability to "narrow" the perspective. For many people, you can only focus on the person you need and "turn a blind eye" to others in the same focal plane. The similar physiological and psychological characteristics of human ears have a "cocktail party effect", which can never be achieved by any advanced professional microphone.

I remember that there is a digital camera that has the ability to shoot scenes with large brightness ratio (large brightness range). It is an internal processor that automatically "superimposes" the data of the same scene exposed by highlights and shadows to obtain the final image with both-essentially the result of compressing the dynamic range.

I'm answering "Why was the photo taken by Polaroid Gray?" ? As obvious as the night scene, it was taken indoors during the day. "The problem is the same as yours, and I quote:

1, indoor shooting If the area of the window is not large enough relative to the depth and volume of the room, the human eye will feel very bright in the adaptive situation (the pupil will open automatically), but the camera will still cause underexposure due to the low illumination of the indoor scene.

2. Or when shooting, there is a window in the framing range. When the photometric point of the camera is concentrated in the highlight of the window, it will be used as the exposure benchmark, so that the brightness of the indoor scene with low illumination is lower than the linear range of the photosensitive material (photographic paper or the photosensitive sensing-amplification system of the digital camera), thus making the photo appear gray.

As far as the current technical achievements are concerned, the linear range of both film and photosensitive sensor-electronic amplifier system is usually less than three orders of magnitude, while the scene brightness range under natural light irradiation is often much larger than three orders of magnitude, that is, the photosensitive performance of photosensitive materials can not cover the scene brightness range under any natural light. The solution can only be to illuminate the low brightness part of the scene with a mirror or other light source, so as to reduce the brightness range (brightness interval) of the scene to adapt to the performance of photosensitive materials.

Regarding brightness and illuminance, generally speaking, the intensity of various electric light sources such as the sun is called brightness; The intensity of their light radiation to other objects is called illuminance (I call it illuminance for convenience of memory), so when measuring, aim the light source with an illuminance meter first, and then illuminate the object.

Because the subject (i.e. the scene) is also a luminous body (secondary light source) relative to the photographic equipment, when measuring different parts of the scene with an exposure meter, the obtained value is the brightness of that part.

These concepts are the basic knowledge that a qualified photographer must master, because the essence of photography is to record different shades of light-usually called "the art of light and shadow", because "shadow" is nothing more than relatively weak light.

Query 2015-01-1919:15

How can I take a clearer picture in the room? It's not that dark

Answer 2015-01-1921:09

For this kind of mass camera or digital camera, if you want to use indoor natural light to shoot (without turning on the flash) and make the indoor scenery clearer, you can first hold down the shutter to shoot in the dark area, so that the camera can remember the exposure parameters at this time, and then aim the lens at the direction of formal shooting and press the shutter to the end. Because the shutter speed is low at this time, it is necessary to support the camera to avoid false shooting (digital camera with anti-shake function is better). For this kind of indoor natural light or low illumination light shooting, it is necessary to meet the camera's maximum exposure performance parameters-sensitivity, maximum aperture and minimum shutter speed, so that the image can reach the appropriate density.

For Polaroid cameras, you should also pay attention to the shelf life and storage conditions of the photographic paper used. Expired photographic paper and high temperature and humidity during storage will increase the fog of photographic paper-the density produced by photosensitive materials without exposure, which corresponds to the noise of digital images.

Questioner evaluation

That's great. Your answer solved my problem perfectly. Thank you very much