Exploring aesthetics

Rongza Waterfall, deep in the Yarlung Zangbo Grand Canyon, has a drop of 30 meters, and the highest drop in the valley is 60 meters. Seen from a height, the torrent is surging and magnificent. Any elegant drifting team hopes to successfully drift the Grand Canyon, including Rongza Waterfall, Zangbo Badong Waterfall and other waterfalls, but so far no one has succeeded, making drifting the Grand Canyon an immortal dream of countless people.

This is a fast-flowing river that divides the earth in two. The swift river turns white waves and forms a whirlpool ...?

-Water of Hell: Surviving the Yarlung Zangbo River Drifting by Peter Heller.

The miracle of Scott Ringer

In February 2002, seven canoes made their first attempt to drift in the Yarlung Zangbo River Grand Canyon. This is a cruel adventure. This canyon is not only remote, but also the deepest canyon in the world, three times deeper and eight times steeper than the Colorado Grand Canyon. The waterfall with a high drop is the most difficult drifting trip in history. The Yarlung Zangbo River is the deepest canyon in the world, and some drifters call it the drifting Mount Qomolangma-but unlike Mount Qomolangma, so far no one has been able to drift smoothly and stand on the downstream bank of the Yarlung Zangbo River alive. ?

The most striking difference between drifting on the Yarlung Zangbo River and a great mountaineering expedition is that the target in the river is always hidden. Stable peaks can be observed and analyzed. The climber observed the best route with a telescope and marked it with dots and lines in the photo. The most dangerous places are usually avalanche troughs, snow eaves and falling rocks. However, at the bottom of the Yarlung Zangbo Grand Canyon, a powerful river flows, and few people in the world can tell exactly what it looks like there. One reason is that rivers are always flowing. Sometimes it rushes down, sometimes it jumps around, and every moment is different. In summer, it is light and cheerful; In spring, it growls. Large waves or protruding stones in medium water flow may fill the influence of high water level. Or on the contrary, the impact of small water flow during flood may make the spray roll up. ?

Only a few expeditions have successfully passed the upper part of the canyon between Pai Waterfall and Rainbow Waterfall in history. Only once was rafting, and the team members experienced the nature of the river-the limit of what a person can do in kayaking. However, Kindonward took some photos of rivers during the trek on 1924. During the period of 1947, two scientists, Ludlow and Charf, took some black and white photos while crossing the upper part of the canyon, which provided an important reference for Ringo's drifting couple. At the same time, the space satellite company in Thornton, Colorado also donated a series of satellite photos of the Grand Canyon bend. ?

Another difference between mountain peaks and rivers is that you can never "conquer" a river. For a river, water always flows downwards. When you set off from a stream by kayak, you will find that the surrounding scenery will change rapidly-away from the road and across the valley. Rivers are always swift. It keeps flowing to the coast and then released into the sea. Tibetan Buddhism emphasizes the inner "emptiness" essence of everything; The characteristics of the river prove this. Every wave, ripple and torrent disappears and reappears in an instant, and goes on and on until there is no difference at all. The ultimate goal of the river is to release oneself in order to seek self. How can we conquer the pursuit of disappearing things?

The upper reaches of the Yarlung Zangbo River are from Heyuan to Lizi, the middle reaches are from Lizi to Paixiang, and the lower reaches are below Paixiang. From Heyuan to Paixiang, the flow direction is generally from west to east, with high mountains, deep valleys and deep rivers in the middle and upper reaches. After flowing through Paixiang, Milin County, it turns to northeast flow, and then turns to south sharply after being collected by Palong, a tributary of Huiren, and then turns to southwest flow, and then turns to east flow near Mojin. ?

The logistics team of seven canoes can almost rival an Everest mountaineering team. 2,500 pounds of food and equipment were led by four Sherpas in a 60-person transport team. Pete Heller, a reporter from National Geographic magazine, recorded this thrilling drifting in Water of Hell: Surviving the Yarlung Zangbo River Drifting. Heller described the Yarlung Zangbo River like this: "This is a fast-flowing river that divides the earth in two. The rushing river stirred up white waves and formed a whirlpool ... The seven men put their boats into the roaring river. In front of them, it is either death or a miracle. " ?

From the traditional point of view, this is an impossible or crazy plan. Extreme fanaticism means 100% devotion and high optimism. But even such people, when they reach the Yarlung Zangbo River, their dedication and optimism will become zero. Scott Ringer left San Francisco for China with six fanatics. Johnny Kern, Allen Ellard, Mike Abbott, Willie Kern, Dustin knapp and Steve Fisher are all the best paddlers in the world. They have been paddling on the water since childhood and will live on the water for more than 200 days every year when they grow up. They all crossed the rapids and rapids buried for ordinary people. Everyone has great goals, and everyone has wild dreams. They spent several months investigating the history, topography and landforms of the Yarlung Zangbo River, and they constantly strengthened their determination with full preparation: we must complete this cause. ?

Besides, once they enter the river, there is no way out. This valley is full of boulders and dangerous beaches. For people drifting on the water, huge water droplets are either progress or death. Similarly, it is impossible to abandon the ship and escape on this river, because people can't swim in the river at all. Stones, huge waves and whirlpools trapped in the rapids instantly killed everyone who tried to swim in the water. ?

In order to avoid overflowing enthusiasm sweeping everything, enthusiasm without rigorous attitude can only lead to irresponsible and reckless behavior. Scott Ringer spent three years studying hydrology with Zhang, a famous drifting guide in China. He used strict criteria to select team members. Almost all the porters and ground crew he hired were locals who were familiar with the local environment. He keeps in touch with diplomatic institutions in Beijing from time to time. This is the most important thing.

Scott Ringer has drifted in the rivers around the Himalayas for 30 times. He chose to drift in the Yarlung Zangbo River in spring, which proves that this is the best season for drifting rivers. The explorer Charlie Muncie drifted across most rivers in Nepal and Asia. He and his colleagues estimated that the safe water level of the Yarlung Zangbo River was 5000 to 10000 cubic feet per second. Ringer used the technical advantages of Thornton Satellite Space Photography Company in Colorado to design the drifting route by using IKONOS space satellite images. Even after he started his journey, Ringo still focused on the details of the implementation: planning the evening meeting, going ashore from time to time to discuss how to deal with the rapids he was going to face, observing the rapids regularly, giving up blind adventures and giving up too dangerous reaches. Ringo was full of enthusiasm during the drifting of 18 days, but he was equally calm and cautious. He injected this caution into the whole team. ?

The description of the relationship between enthusiasm and caution in Heller's article is worth remembering by every leader: "For Ringo, the team leading the drifting Yarlung Zangbo River needs to maintain an amazing balance. He needs members' courage and firm self-confidence, and also needs members' heartfelt humility when facing the river, and does not hesitate to abandon their selfish wishes. He must be responsible for every problem, no matter how huge or trivial, because this expedition is responsible for every life. " He did it, and their task was successfully completed.

The death of self-confidence

In fact, the drifting of the Yarlung Zangbo River has long left a tragedy to warn others. ?

1993, 10 In September, a 24-year-old Japanese named Yoshitaka Takei just tried to float in the water in Palong Zangbo when he was washed into the mainstream of the fierce Yarlung Zangbo River by the rushing water and disappeared. The "Sino-Japanese Yarlung Zangbo River Expedition" to which he belongs urgently organized the search but failed. Subsequently, the local Linzhi party, government and military organs immediately ordered their troops to monitor the floating objects along the river, and the Medog County People's Government organized dozens of people to conduct inspections along the river below the Great Bend. Team members, troops along the river and migrant workers have organized three one-month searches along the river, all of which failed. ?

Zhang Jimin, a reporter from Xinhua News Agency, recalled that the Japanese players were taken away by the plane in Zhaqu. The successful flight satisfied all their desires and strengthened the determination of the Japanese team to try drifting. China team members Zhao Jun and Chen, etc. After reading the water situation of the Palong Zangbo River, I felt that the current was too fast, and suggested to the Japanese side that it was not advisable to risk drifting here. In this regard, Captain Yoshio Kitamura refused, saying that Japanese drifters such as Yoshiro Takei just wanted to get into the water. If they think they can drift, they won't drift. Because they are experts, not the captain can decide. China's suggestion of discouraging Japanese players from fighting for their lives in the Palong Zangbo River is not limited to the intuitive analysis of the current water situation, but also stems from the years of investigation of the Palong Zangbo River by China geographers, including the understanding of its largest tributary. This is comprehensive, including landform, geology, meteorology, vegetation, animals and many other aspects. Now it is necessary to take a look at the "real" Palong Zangbo River, whose basin is located at the eastern end of Gangdise-Nyainqentanglha geological structure belt. The Palong Zangbo River originates from the Azagongla Glacier, and its source is 4900 meters above sea level. It flows through Angongcuo, Ranwucuo and Tongmai, and flows into Zangbu River in Gong Yi, a tributary in the west. Since then, the river has turned sharply south and poured into the mainstream of the Yarlung Zangbo River near Zhaqu Village. The Palong Zangbo River, with a total length of 266 kilometers, has a drop of 3,380 meters and an average river slope drop of 12.7%. It is really a surging river. ?

Self-confident Japanese wouldn't expect that there are 13 tributaries flowing from the mouth of Perong Gongzhi River to the mouth of Palong Zangbo River along the Yangtze River. They are like 13 boosters, making the Palong Zangbo River bigger and more urgent. The water surface near Ganglang at the end of Palong Zangbo River has reached 109 meters wide and the water depth is 65438. This kind of water situation is almost a wild horse that escaped from Xinjiang. In the eyes of Westerners, 13 is an unlucky number. I wonder if the Palong Zangbo River, which is full of traps, is also related to this. ?

In order to ensure safety, the Japanese team members are going to run with the manned ship on the shore by throwing ropes. Once something happens, they will throw the rope into the river and let them catch it. This is a safety measure, but for us onlookers, it is not the best way. Instead of this, it is better to tie a rope around the waist of the rafter, so that people who enter the water can float and people on the shore can find the danger and pull it up. ?

Japanese players are determined to try drifting on the Yarlung Zangbo River, but out of courtesy, China no longer stops them. Starting from Zhaqu camp, China sent six able-bodied migrant workers to assist the Japanese team members. They arrived at the Palong Zangbo River, a place with slow water potential, near the confluence of the Yarlung Zangbo River. ?

Takei Yi Long and other three drifters made preparations before launching, exercised their muscles and checked the reliability of their equipment. Paramedics also practiced emergency rescue accordingly. The 10 Japanese players who come here have their own duties. The test drift was first carried out by Takei Yi Long and Jing. In order to prevent accidents, the drifters had to carry walkie-talkies, but only Ye Jing accepted, while Takei Yi Long refused. This rower who just graduated from Waseda University and can swim really looks down on the trial drift distance of 200 meters. He thinks he can paddle a few times in the water after launching, adjust the direction of the boat a little and then go ashore. What's the use of walkie-talkies ?

The wild spirit was the first to go into the water, and before a few strokes, the boat was overturned by the rushing river. Thanks to Shui Piao's efforts, the ship finally recovered, but by this time it was far away from the scheduled drifting line in the slow waters and was involved in the middle of the river. Takei Yoshitaka, who followed the wild well into the water almost at the same time, was quickly washed away because the current was too fast to control the boat. ?

Three rescue team members were stunned by what they saw and stamped their feet on the shore. They don't understand how this happened. As if it had been discussed in advance, the crew rushed to the center of the river as soon as they entered the water, as if they didn't want to ask their teammates on the shore for help at all. Shortly after the two oars were swept away by the river, a wild voice came from the intercom, saying that they had landed safely and were trapped on the south bank of the Yarlung Zangbo River, at a distance of 1700 meters. He can only sit tight and wait for help. Even if you have the ability like an ape, you can cut the general cliffs along the river and climb, facing the jungle-covered mountains, you can't find the way back to Zhaqu camp. ?

It took several migrant workers nearly a day to cross the mountains with long ropes to bring Ye Jing back to Zhaqu from the south bank of the Yarlung Zangbo River. Only Ye Jing was the last person to send Takei Yoshiro into the underworld. What did he see? He recalled: "After being caught in the middle of the river, the ship rolled several times in the waves. I thought it was dangerous, so I abandoned the ship. I swam about 500 meters and reached the shore. After that, I saw Takei's overturned boat drifting across the river, but I didn't see Takei. "

From the standpoint of pure explorers, everyone is equal before nature. Let's mourn for them.

Gordon's dedication?

During 1998, the Yarlung Zangbo River drifted under the sponsorship of National Geographic magazine. Doug Gordon, an American, graduated from Harvard University, the father of her husband and two children, a doctoral student at the University of Utah and an explorer with rich drifting experience, died in the Yarlung Zangbo River Grand Canyon, the deepest in the world. ?

On the day of the incident, 52-year-old Jamie McAiwen led the river drifting team to drift 29 kilometers from Pai District to Galla, the core area, and 23 kilometers downstream along the left bank of the river. The ground support team led by Willie Walker is waiting here. 101October 16, in a place called Garasengang, Doug Gordon tried to float across the waterfall with a drop of three meters on the left bank of the river, hoping to drift down the corner of the waterfall and go ashore downstream. However, contrary to expectations, the landing point deviated and the drifting boat fell into the whirlpool below the waterfall. At this time, he tried to spin the drifting boat, but was pushed to the middle of the river by the huge waves. In the turbulent river, Gordon struggled to control the balance of the boat. In making further efforts, he fell into a more terrible rapids. This is the last scene witnessed by Gordon's teammates. After four days of unsuccessful search, Jamie Macvane and Willy Walker walked together for seven days and finally returned to the United States. ?

Unfortunately, Washington post and National Radio have raised some sharp questions: Can Gordon's dedication be avoided? The expedition soon realized that they had encountered the Indian Ocean monsoon, which was rare in Asian history. Why does it drift in the water? The expedition found that the water level was two or three times higher than they had expected. Why are they still trying? Did National Geographic or major sponsors put pressure on the drifting team to get a stunning work or a wealth of photographs? At that time, were there any related exploration organizations from other countries competing with them for the first drift of the Yarlung Zangbo River? ?

People who blindly pursue why the expedition began to drift will not help in the end. Just do what you have to do. Those who explore the truth are still pursuing tirelessly after many setbacks. Blindly pointing fingers and pointing fingers will only kill people's will and ignore the possibility of success after countless setbacks. Don emmons, who has extensive research and rich experience in exploring the Yarlung Zangbo River, said: "The McVane expedition did its best in very difficult times and extremely harsh environmental conditions. They helped us understand the environment at that time and the situation we faced, so that we could learn something useful from it. " ?

Jamie Macvane, 46, is a bronze medalist in the Olympic rowing competition. Before that, she had drifted across the Santa Maria River in Mexico and the Dean River in Alaska. He thinks that the total weight of Gordon's floating boat is out of proportion to the steering device at his knees, which may cause him to lose control of his balance. He said, "Because the floating boat is a little bigger than Conton, he encountered the trouble of shaking and swaying when drifting." He then recalled: "The Upright used at that time was unreasonable. The boat and the control part should add up to nearly 65,438+000 pounds, which is slightly heavier than the ordinary type. "

Even if we don't discuss the real cause of Gordon's death first, most of the questions in the drifting world are: Why did you choose this time of year to explore and drift? Anyone familiar with the Yarlung Zangbo River will realize that after the Indian Ocean monsoon and the devastating floods in China and India, the water level there will be particularly high from September to1October. In some places in the Yarlung Zangbo River Gorge, the vertical drop even reaches 60 meters. The satellite map used by the expedition did not have the exact location of Gordon's death, so it was impossible to know the vertical drop near the white horse and the bear. ?

Jamie Macvane recalled that he was shocked by the high water level. We expect the current to be between 5000 and 15000, so we have to go into the water anyway. We wouldn't be surprised if the water flow is 20000. But it is several times higher than we expected. Not far from Wan Li, the expedition arrived at the Yarlung Zangbo River they hoped for, so they decided to drift for a short distance that they thought was safe, and the rest would pass on foot. Gordon followed the ground support team of the first drifting expedition to reinforce land transportation at any time and speed up the progress when there is no feasible road.

Jamie Macvane explained: The investment of time and energy finally prompted the expedition to start a historic attempt: "Walking blindly is a sacrifice of time, and the river becomes smaller. It seems that we can drift for several kilometers. It's really hard. It took us ten days to get there. This is an investment, and all of us feel the same way ... we should try it. " . ?

Jamie Macvane explained another reason for the expedition's drift: in the later period of the descent, migrant workers would not be able to cross the mouth of the Snow Mountain parallel to the canyon, so they could not carry out ground transportation reinforcements. The river drops rapidly at the rate of 0.6- 1.2m per day. At the same time, he wrote in his diary: The expedition predicted that the current would reach a floatable level after reaching the most dangerous river for three or four weeks. He said: "According to the itinerary, we planned everything along the way. We are well aware of the problem of water flow. If there is any other choice, you will definitely choose a smaller water drift. We have no choice. In the meantime, we quickly entered the ice and snow area. When you plan to hire migrant workers one day, please remember not to change your original plan. " ?

Ringer understood why the expedition came up with the idea that water was stable. He said: "One of the most obvious problems in Himalayan books is water flow. People will never know how deep its water is. I've never been so fooled. Only when you put the floating boat in the water will you feel its surging. " Other circumstances may also affect the decision-making of the expedition, that is, the whole team realized that two other China expeditions wanted to compete for the first place in the Grand Canyon. Some people speculate that the idea of drifting the river first prompted the expedition to start action at the most dangerous time.

At first glance, the water level of the Yarlung Zangbo River is far from what he hoped. He immediately called Peter Miller, editor-in-chief of National Geographic. Miller replied that Macvane has repeatedly stated that National Geographic advocates safety first. He said: "We told the expedition to be careful and pay attention to safety. You don't have to reach a certain height or write excellent works. Things are not what people talk about, what they are eager to consider is the water level of the river. " ?

What dominated them was the desire to complete the first drifting of the Yarlung Zangbo River, or the problem of writing articles and shooting amazing videos for National Geographic. Macvane emphasized that Gordon was regarded as the most successful drifting explorer at that time and was one of the participants in every decision. In fact, on the issue of drifting, Gordon and his opinions are completely unified; Even on other drifting issues, Gordon is more actively in favor of drifting down than anyone else on the expedition, and the rest are reinforced by land. Macvane said: "Gordon is passionate and eager to drift. Despite his hard work, he devoted himself to adventure rafting. But he also knows that you can't blindly analyze, you can't wait, you can't rush. He really wants to take care of everything. "

Different views?

As adventures drift into history and more facts are made public, the question of whether Gordon's dedication can be avoided will continue. Perhaps Gordon's words written in the American magazine River Drifting before his death are more convincing: "People can rationally say that river drifting is a dangerous undertaking, and I have experienced the happiness and satisfaction of life through this activity. In my personal growth, I saw those magnificent and beautiful places and felt that some kind of adventure was worth a try. But let's not get carried away and ignore her existence. The danger is there, right around us. If we don't make every effort to minimize the danger, we will lose a very important lesson. " ?

Jamie Macvane wrote in the accident record: Gordon's misfortune is only part of the potential danger of river animals, and there is no other reason. I don't think there is any special reason for Gordon's persistence, and there is nothing worth learning. Compared with other difficult river rafting, sports are equally dangerous. And those ongoing behaviors must also accept the price of danger in order to reach a higher level with its deepening. As far as unfortunate events are concerned, if I knew what would happen to Gordon, I would naturally do everything possible to prevent it from happening. However, despite the worldly knowledge of hindsight, if I were in the same environment, I would still make the same decision again. "Many onlookers also agree with this view.

Ange Bridge, Gordon's long-time drifting friend, said: "Gordon's misfortune caused a sensation in public opinion. After getting to know most of the members of the drifting team, all my doubts were dispelled. I firmly believe that Condon underestimated the water speed and finally paid the price. " Bridget, who holds the view that the Grand Canyon rafting will be conquered sooner or later, said: "The Yarlung Zangbo River is the Everest of rafting, and someone will finish this project one day. But no matter who finishes it, he must choose the best dry season and be fully prepared for entering and leaving the Grand Canyon. I don't think more people will pay for it. " ?

Charlie Muncie, who is also very familiar with the Grand Canyon, thinks that it is difficult for human beings to complete drifting. He is one of those who think that some rivers will never drift. He said: "I am very confused about the depths of the Grand Canyon. Going with the flow is always a good wish. Six-meter-wide rivers abound, and the deafening rivers roar endlessly and roll like thunder in the 2400-meter-deep canyon. These places are almost impossible to escape. " ?

At this moment, people no longer argue that Gordon lost his balance and fell into the middle of the river, and found out whether his dedication could be exempted. The explorer's belief is only to explore the unexplored nature, and people will always learn something useful from it. Those who blindly criticize the unfinished exploration afterwards and find it difficult to guide the explorer can only show that such cowards are unwilling to learn useful things from unsuccessful exploration. Do what you have to do. Successful pioneers know how to distinguish unsuccessful ones with their own cleverness, instead of continuing to try in the same way. In other words, Gordon's dedication to the Grand Canyon taught people the last lesson. ?

Nevertheless, plans to explore the Yarlung Zangbo River continue. Among them, the exploration plan of Ringo and Muncie is 1999, and the water and ground investigation of some river sections and tributaries.