How to protect photography equipment in winter

Good Lens First of all, when you go outdoors with a warm camera, what should you do? Are you worried about water vapor condensing from cold air onto warm surfaces or film, and electronic components? In fact, this worry is unnecessary. Cold air doesn't have a lot of water vapor. When you go into the cold outdoors, there is almost no condensation of fog. (As we'll discuss, this only becomes a major issue when you return indoors.) So, what's the major issue with going outdoors? The main problem is the loss of battery power! Batteries Batteries The physical and chemical methods by which batteries produce electricity lose their effectiveness at low temperatures. Especially today, with automatic cameras all relying on battery power, this is a serious problem. In this way, when you take your camera and flash into a cold environment, you can expect the loss of battery power. How should you respond? First, keep your cameras and flashes (and their batteries) as warm as possible, especially outdoors. Try to keep them close to your body, such as inside your coat. Except for short periods of time when taking photos, try to use your body heat to keep them warm. In addition, keeping your camera warm can also greatly reduce the possibility that the mechanical shutter will not work due to the lubricant being frozen. Second, consider the loss of battery power in the cold. How should you prepare? First of all, when you go out, you should bring as many spare batteries as possible. Also, keep it as close to your body as possible, for example, in a shirt pocket that helps absorb your body heat. That way, if your camera or flash battery starts to fail, you can replace it with a warm new one. Okay now that you're outside, is there anything else you should do outside in the cold? Your goal is still to keep your camera and flash as warm as possible. For example, let's say you wait for the appearance of wild animals on a distant hill. Set up your tripod, but if possible keep your camera in your arms until you're ready to shoot. In this case, it is very convenient to use a quick-install gimbal. While you're looking at your subject, place the camera on the tripod quickly and accurately. A cold tripod will continue to work, but a cold camera will most likely not work at all. We noticed that those power-hungry digital cameras often failed very quickly when we were out in the cold weather. There is no other way but to prepare more batteries. As a conclusion, if you find that your battery fails, you should definitely have a backup of warm batteries.

What other problems with static electricity (other than frozen fingers and snot) are more distressing for photographers in the cold? static electricity. If you live anywhere in the north, you're bound to encounter this problem throughout the winter - if you walk on carpet, shake hands, or touch a doorknob, you'll get a shock. The problem of static electricity only exists when it is dry. And, because cold air cannot retain water vapor, cold weather means dryness. So when you use your camera outdoors in the cold, you run the risk of static electricity accumulating as you load the roll (which is the same as when you walk on carpet), and, when the static electricity is strong enough, it may There are sparks inside your camera that cause the film to become exposed to light and create fog. Of course this is rare, but it does happen. We’ve seen and experienced photos being wasted. How to minimize the possibility of this situation in cold weather? Load the film carefully. Use a manual camera and film slowly. Use automatic cameras and avoid continuous shooting. The most important thing when shooting outdoors is not to freeze yourself and wear multiple layers. Find a good pair of boots. Bring a thermos of hot soup. (The effects of coffee and alcohol on maintaining body temperature are not obvious). And if it's really cold, consider accessories like the chemical-based plastic bags that skiers use to heat their hands and feet, or even electrically heated insoles. You will need thick gloves, but this can be very inconvenient when pressing small buttons on the camera. So you also need gloves that can separate your fingers so you can use one of your fingers briefly.

Shooting in the Snow What can be said about shooting in the snow? If it's just light snow, just keep the camera in your arms except when taking pictures. Not too long ago, we were outside taking photos for a few seconds in the middle of a snowstorm, with wet snowflakes falling all around. This kind of heavy snow situation will damage the exposed parts of the SLR camera, especially the highly electronic camera. Water vapor can damage important circuits that control camera functions, especially in digital cameras. We advise that when this is the case, do not use your camera unless protected by special water-resistant gear. There are some accessories for divers where you can put your camera in a plastic container and seal it. The lens can be photographed through a clear optical glass filter, the camera is protected by a plastic container, and the lens is protected by the filter. Our accessories are not only suitable for diving, they are also suitable for use in snowstorms. Similarly, you can use a waterproof "point-and-shoot" camera or a special waterproof camera in snowy weather. As long as the light is not too weak, the latest 800-degree film from Kodak and Fujifilm should be able to shoot. Whether you use a waterproof cover or a waterproof camera, make sure no snowflakes or small water droplets are blocking the lens. If necessary, clean the lens with a lens cloth. We usually use old cotton clothes or chemical fiber lens cleaning cloths. If you take these measures, you should have no problem taking a variety of photos outdoors.

Condensation It’s time to get back indoors, where condensation becomes a problem.

On a hot summer day, you must have seen water vapor condense on the surface of a glass of cold water. In the same way, when you bring a camera into a house, water vapor from the warm indoor air will condense on the cold surface of the camera lens and film. The lens was completely covered by small water droplets, as were the film and various parts of the mechanics, circuits, and interior of the camera. You don't need steam - water! - On your lens, or inside the camera. So how can you avoid this problem? Let your camera warm up slowly. Place the camera on a windowsill or in a cooler hallway for two hours to allow it to slowly warm to room temperature. You can even give your camera more protection. This is where the advice to wrap cold cameras in plastic bags comes from. It is much better to isolate water vapor outside the bag than to condense on the surface and inside of the camera. This is how to protect delicate electrical components. In fact, it would be best if you could put the camera cover in the bag and leave it outside. By taking these simple precautions, you can enjoy shooting outdoors in the cold. The clear skies brought by the cold climate provide special opportunities for photographing wonderful scenery. Don’t be intimidated by freezing temperatures approaching the Arctic Circle.

Dress appropriately, take this little bit of advice, use your brain - and then do it!