Why is Xiangyun yarn so precious?

Xiangyun yarn is praised as "soft gold" by the global textile industry. It is the only silk fabric dyed with pure plant dyes in the world and has a very nice name.

Xiangyun yarn, whose real name is "Yam", is an expensive yarn and silk product, which is made by coating the juice of Dioscorea cirrhosa, a plant endemic to Guangdong, and covering it with mud from a river pond unique to Shunde.

The mulberry silk fabric made by this method is light and smooth, and it is a kind of light, cool, oily and shiny yarn material.

In 2008, Xiangyun yarn dyeing and finishing process was selected into the second batch of national intangible cultural heritage list.

So, how did the wonderful name "Xiangyun yarn" come from? There is such a description in the Records of Guangdong Province and the Records of Silk: "Because clothes made of gamboge yarn will rustle when worn, it is called" Xiangyun yarn ",which is called" Xiangyun yarn "by later generations.

(Xiangyun yarn finished product)

The beauty of Xiangyun yarn is not simple, and its production process needs to go through more than 30 complicated processes.

Due to its special geographical location, Shunde, Guangdong Province has always been an important sericulture and silk weaving base, providing raw materials for the production of Xiangyun yarn. In the process of drying yam, four factors are essential: yam, river mud, grassland and sunshine.

The pond mud of Lunjiao in Shunde, the hinterland of the Pearl River Delta, is rich in iron and is the most suitable area for making Xiangyun yarn.

(Dioscorea cirrhosa for dyeing)

When yam is processed, the juice of Dioscorea cirrhosa is used as a natural dye, and raw silk is dipped and dyed repeatedly to obtain a brown semi-finished product, and then black pond mud rich in iron is coated on one side and exposed to the hot sun.

Biochemical components such as iron ions in the mud fully react with tannic acid in Dioscorea cirrhosa juice to generate black ferrous tannic acid. After shaking off the pond mud and cleaning it, it becomes a fragrant gauze with black face and yellow inside and shiny oil. This traditional craft has also lasted for 500 years.

The river mud rushed up and washed away, back and forth. The gift of nature has given infinite inspiration to the ancestors here, and the white blank yarn has completed the process from Xiangyun yarn to butterfly here.

As a textile fabric popular in 1950s and 1960s, the famous writer Zhang Ailing also has a special liking.

"One lives in one's own clothes", and Zhang Ailing, adhering to this dress concept, melts Xiangyun yarn into the characters in her works.

She wrote in "The First Fragrance of Aquilaria Resina", "You can clearly see the man's back shadow in the moonlight, wearing a white summer cloth shirt and black fragrant gauze pants. Because of the hot weather, I put a snake-like braid on my head, revealing a pink neck outside my collar. "

(Intangible cultural heritage "Xiangyun Yarn" appeared at China International Fashion Week)

In recent years, high-end fashion with Xiangyun yarn as fabric has entered the mainstream market in Europe and America, which is one of the representative works that can best reflect the "Chinese style" of silk industry.

Elegant women who like China traditional costumes, do you know that there is a national treasure silk fabric-Xiangyun yarn? Even in the longer years, this kind of cloth was once the status symbol of our great-grandfather. Due to the development of history and social unrest, this precious cloth has almost disappeared. Her name is Xiangyun Sha.

This kind of fabric is precious because of its unique and all-natural dyeing skills, which embodies the wisdom and talent of generations of working people in Shunde.

Xiangyun yarn is a kind of yarn and silk product, which will make a rustling sound when worn, so it is called Xiangyun yarn, and the sound becomes Xiangyun yarn. Xiangyun yarn can be divided into three types: silk yarn and gamboge yarn. The difference lies in the different weave structure of silk base fabric. At present, the main product of Xiangyun yarn is Garcinia cambogia yarn because of its high production requirements.

Xiangyun yarn is a kind of silk product which is coated with the juice of Dioscorea cirrhosa, covered with the soil of river water containing minerals, and then exposed to the sun. Xiangyun yarn dyeing and finishing process is one of the second batch of national intangible cultural heritages in China. On July 18, 2006, the Swedish "Gothenburg" returned to Guangzhou Huangpu ancient port. The organizing committee of the event chose the costumes representing Ranunculus ternatus in China and Guangdong as national gifts for the king, queen and members of the royal family. 20 1 1 China IT leaders summit designated "tianyi Bessie" red and black fragrant yarn fashion as the summit dress. Nowadays, Xiangyun yarn is used as the fabric of high-end dresses worn on important and grand occasions, and even as the collection of celebrities. The four magic weapons needed for Xiangyun yarn dyeing include silk cloth, yam rhizome, pond mud and sunshine.

There are no chemical additives, and the only color sources used are natural gifts, wild Dioscorea cirrhosa and clean pond mud. Once, the Japanese tried to steal a teacher, but failed because there was no key raw material, Shunde's unique river mud. There is no energy consumption, and the warm sunshine endows Shunde working people with wisdom, and also endows Xiangyun yarn with the energy of coloring. There is no machine, because the raw materials used come from nature, without specifications and formulas, and can only be controlled by human wisdom and experience.

Xiangyun yarn is a rare silk fabric dyed with pure plant dyes in the world textiles. Due to the use of all natural raw materials, all artificial production, the output is extremely low.

Why did she almost disappear?

Because of her complicated process steps, high labor intensity, and dependence on solar eclipse, her output is very unstable, and it is difficult to pass on her vital experience in a short time.

The dyeing process of Xiangyun yarn is very complicated and there are many steps.

Satin is prepared to be soaked in buttercup water 1 time, sprinkled with buttercup water for 6 times, boiled with buttercup water for 6 times, boiled with buttercup water 1 time, rolled with river mud, washed with buttercup water 1 time, fogged and put into storage.

Sundried buttercup

Among them, the water of Ranunculus ternatus was treated 27 times alone, and such complicated steps enhanced its value.

Among them, Dioscorea cirrhosa water is a natural dyeing water made by crushing Dioscorea cirrhosa, squeezing, filtering and using its juice.

River mud is to spread the river mud on the surface of silk, so that it can be thinly coated on the surface of silk, and it is better not to show the bottom to the naked eye.

River mud fetching wharf

Each of the above steps requires manual labor and empirical judgment.

The key secret of dyeing is that when silk is dyed by water of Dioscorea cirrhosa, the peptide bond of silk fibroin in silk fabric is combined with the hydrogen bond of tannin phenol group contained in Dioscorea cirrhosa, and it will react with high-valent iron ions in river mud under the catalysis of sunlight, thus producing a very shiny black coating on the surface of silk satin. Therefore, the front of the previous Xiangyun yarn was black and the back was tan.

Because the iron ions in the river mud will react with the silk soaked in buttercup water under the action of sunlight, it is necessary to start crossing the river mud before dawn, otherwise there will be color block or head-tail color difference and middle edge color difference, which is worthy of the name.

It is difficult to form a black coating without the catalysis of sunlight. Usually from the beginning of April to the end of 10, it is a year-long dry season. Among them, from July to the beginning of August (the lunar summer heat, the summer heat and beginning of autumn), the dry yarn will become hard and brittle, so it is not suitable for construction. It is not suitable for returning to work after mid-August and before the end of 10. If the sunshine is uneven, there will be color differences such as head and tail colors and middle colors. It's called playing it by ear.

For various reasons, the output of Xiangyun yarn was once very low. The application of new textile materials made the market gradually forget this fabric, and Xiangyun yarn clothing gradually declined. There are fewer and fewer people engaged in this industry. At least, there is only one factory in Shunde that runs at a loss, and no young people pass it on. However, with the improvement of people's quality of life, the demand for natural quality and health is more and more urgent, and Xiangyun yarn has once again attracted people's attention. If we don't pay attention to our traditional culture and skills, and we don't have the craftsman spirit to think and explore our traditional culture and skills, then even the best treasure will only sink to the bottom of the pool.

look into the future

Xiangyun yarn is a rare pure natural clothing fabric. After research and development, black Xiangyun yarn is not limited. However, due to the unique environmental protection technology, it is difficult to produce mechanically in large quantities. Therefore, in terms of quality stability, there are flaws. The coating on the surface of Xiangyun yarn will peel off with the growth of years and become the witness of years, just like jeans, the more they cross, the more delicious they become. Fading jeans are not jeans, and Xiangyun yarn with perfect fabric is not Xiangyun yarn.

Xiangyun yarn is always a high-grade and antique silk fabric. We don't pray for her to become a popular costume, nor is it suitable for all occasions. We hope that she can continue to inherit, keep improving and follow the footsteps of the times through the craftsman spirit of the industry practitioners, and constantly make this national treasure silk fabric glow with vitality. As China people, we are proud of the wisdom of our ancestors, and we should also inherit and carry forward the treasure left by our ancestors-Xiangyun yarn.

Xiangyun yarn cheongsam is very expensive, now you understand why!

Why is Xiangyun yarn so precious?

Xiangyun yarn is a very precious fabric, among which silk Xiangyun yarn is called the national intangible cultural heritage. I believe many people have heard of this kind of fabric, so are Xiangyun yarn and silk the same thing?

Xiangyun yarn is a kind of real silk, which is made of real silk grey cloth. Silk contains eighteen kinds of amino acids, also known as the second skin. At present, it can only be manufactured in Shunde, Guangdong. According to the different components of silk fabrics (interweaving and 100%), it can be divided into honeysuckle silk and honeysuckle yarn, which is similar to ordinary silk washing, and Xiangyun yarn is much more convenient to take care of than ordinary silk. Because after handcuffs. So it is more textured. It's not easy to get on Walking will form a kind of wind tunnel, which makes people feel cooler.

Xiangyun yarn is a kind of silk with great porosity. Coat the surface with Dioscorea cirrhosa juice, cover with river mud containing a lot of iron ions, and expose to the sun. Finally, a shiny silk fabric with a brown side and a black side is obtained. This kind of silk cloth is characterized by its quick drying after being exposed to water, and it does not stick to the body when sweating.

Xiangyun yarn itself is a kind of silk. Xiangyun yarn is a special kind of silk wrapped with Dioscorea cirrhosa. If you insist on the type, the specifications of the thickness are different.

Xiangyun yarn is the only silk fabric dyed with pure vegetable dyes in the world. The yarn production process is unique, the quantity is small and the production time is long. It has the characteristics of cool and pleasant, light and soft, quick-drying in water, not easy to wrinkle, nourishing body and bones, sterilizing and expelling worms, and having health care effect on skin.

Xiangyun yarn is a kind of silk fabric, which is composed of protein fibers. It's very delicate and very suitable for dry cleaning. If you clean yourself, you need to wash it by hand. Please don't rub it hard, let alone wash it by machine.

Clothes or fabrics are best washed by hand with clean water below 30℃. Soak the clothes or fabric in clear water (preferably with tea juice or a little salt) for 5 10 minutes, then dissolve the detergent in water with special silk detergent or gold spinning lotion (shampoo is also acceptable), then soak it in the clothes, then pat the reverse side gently with hand washing and take it out to dry in the shade. (or soak a little tea) It is normal to lose a little floating color. Do not machine wash, dehydrate, dry or expose to the sun.

Cocoon life Xiangyun yarn is a pure natural environmental protection product, woven with natural fibers, delicate, especially with black edges. Its essence is yam mud, so it will fade to a certain extent when washed. Pay attention to separate different shades of cloth when entering the water, otherwise there will be color.

Judging from the current situation, in addition to silk, hemp, pure cotton, Tencel, modal and so on are the second.

Why is Xiangyun yarn so precious?

Zhang Ailing wrote in "Fragments of Aquilaria Resinatum: The First Furnace Incense": "The man's back can be seen clearly in the moonlight, wearing a white grass shirt and black incense, and his feet and pants are very big. Because of the hot weather, I put a snake-like braid on my head, revealing a pink neck outside my collar. " She loves cheongsam made of Xiangyun yarn, which is described in The Golden Lock: "Qiao Qi wears a white Xiangyun shirt and a black skirt, and then her face looks like rouge ..." Soong Ching Ling is a fan of Xiangyun yarn cheongsam, and she has a favorite Xiangyun yarn cheongsam: stand-up, short sleeves, right back, black and hand-sewn. In her later years, Soong Ching Ling even enlarged the sides of her favorite Xiangyun cheongsam and continued to wear it because she was getting fatter and fatter. Today, Soong Ching Ling Memorial Hall still treasures three cheongsam dresses she wore, one of which is her favorite black veil. In addition, almost all celebrities in the Republic of China were fans of Xiangyun Qipao, such as Lu Xiaoman and Wang Yingxia.

The most famous photo of Zhang Ailing is wearing a tulle cheongsam.

Show Soong Ching Ling's favorite tulle cheongsam

Xiangyun yarn, as its name implies, can easily be imagined as light and fragrant cicada yarn and other fabrics. In fact, its texture is seven points soft and three points hard. It belongs to the sun, the river and the soil, and it doesn't float lightly like silk or gauze. It is connected with the earth's atmosphere, so it brings more details and flavor. Xiangyun yarn is the only characteristic silk fabric that uses pure plant dyes in the world textile at present, and it can only be produced in Foshan, China and its surrounding areas. Because this kind of cloth rustles when walking, people began to call it "clouds of sand", and later this beautiful name "Xiangyun Yarn" came into being. Xiangyun yarn has the characteristics of double-sided different colors, light and soft, warm in winter and cool in summer, and the older the better. In 2008, "Xiangyun yarn dyeing and finishing process" was listed as a national intangible cultural heritage. In the past, when Guangdong women got married, most mothers would sew a Xiangyun gauze dress for their daughters. When their daughter reached her grandmother's age, the dress remained elegant and noble, so that it could be passed on to the next generation as a family heirloom.

The most classic style of Zhou Xun in The Wind is the gauze cheongsam she wears.

A piece of clothing may carry the memory of generations. This unique handicraft also carries heavy historical precipitation and glory. Why is Xiangyun yarn so popular? If you know it carefully, you will love it, too. First of all, Xiangyun yarn is a pure natural green fabric, and no chemical accelerant is used in the whole production process, so there is no pollution discharge. The raw materials needed are sunshine, grass, yam rhizome and river mud, and everything is done by hand under the gift of nature. The hand-made way determines the uniqueness of Xiangyun yarn. There are no two identical auspicious clouds in this world. Xiangyun yarn is as light as cicada's wings, low-key and textured, with silky upper body and good heat dissipation and warmth retention. The natural dyes used in the production process determine that it has many health care functions such as anti-burn, anti-allergy, deodorization, sterilization and anti-ultraviolet. Moreover, Xiangyun yarn dries immediately after entering the water, and it is easy to wash with water. It flies lightly and rustles, giving people a feeling of amazing time. Clothes made of Xiangyun yarn are an "old-fashioned" craft. With the passage of time, Xiangyun yarn becomes more delicate and soft, and the body reacts with Xiangyun yarn chemically. The initial coating slowly falls off to appear a brown background color, and the cracks on the surface will gradually disappear, and its color will become more primitive and profound, just like vitality.

Xiangyun yarn soaked by time can stand the cycle of fashion.

It takes nearly a year for a Xiangyun yarn to be made and put into use. The long production cycle often makes many brands and manufacturers who want to produce Xiangyun yarn products flinch. The popularity of Xiangyun yarn also stems from its rarity. At present, it can only be produced in Foshan, Guangdong, and its production capacity is extremely low. It's handmade, depending on the weather. It is unique in the world to use local wild plants, sunshine and river mud to toss back and forth for dozens of times to produce cloth.

Every time the clothes made of Xiangyun yarn are changed and washed, the black will be a little lighter, and they will become different themselves every time. A beloved Xiangyun cheongsam, worn since childhood, changes the color of the clothes, and a woman's heart is gradually enriched and restrained in the fleeting time. The longer time goes by, the more attractive the changed Xiangyun cheongsam is, just like a woman flower in the streamer, which has experienced the joys and sorrows from a girl to a middle-aged woman to an old man, and her heart is getting richer and richer.

Many stories about Yan Xi Palace.

This dress has a high appearance rate, which shows how much it is favored by the emperor.

The texture of the fabric, beautiful and environmentally friendly, and unique and rare handicrafts make Xiangyun yarn a well-deserved king of silk. 20 18, a costume drama "The Story of Yan Xi Palace" was popular all over the country. This drama not only made the actors popular overnight, but also attracted a large number of fans who love traditional styles with its exquisite traditional costumes and beautiful shapes.

This drama also makes Xiangyun yarn, an intangible fabric that has inherited cultural heritage since ancient times, more familiar to the public, because many characters in the drama wear clothes made of Xiangyun yarn. Master Fu Heng's Xiangyun cotton robe, with black flowers, can ride a horse in picking up girls. It can be described as an elegant and beautiful teenager with aristocratic temperament! The most famous example of Xiangyun yarn is Emperor Qianlong in Biography of Yan Xi Palace, which ignited the original low-key retro Xiangyun yarn.

The historical perspective is in a hurry, and the fashion trend advances with the progress of time. In the era of faster pace and industrialization, this kind of pure natural fabric, which exists against industrialization, still stands on the stage of humanities and fashion. Many designers at home and abroad aimed at the prospect of Xiangyun yarn in the fashion world and launched a series of fashion products.

Xiangyun yarn cheongsam can stand the scrutiny of time and others.

It is said that Xiangyun yarn is soft gold, and a woman's heart is more precious than gold.

Time flies, I am gentle and strong.

Among the various applications of Xiangyun yarn, cheongsam is the most suitable one to complement each other. Zhang Ailing's favorite cheongsam is Xiangyun yarn. After a long time, it still smells like fashion from beginning to end. Only love can last. When the invisible Xiangyun yarn meets the fashion, it is gentle without losing the atmosphere, and there are more stories that are calm and meaningful. ...

Inheritance significance: Xiangyun yarn is hand-made, with complex technology and low output, which is limited by weather and environment, so the output is not high and the number of employees is decreasing.

Hometown of Xiangyun: Committed to casting high-end oriental aesthetic lifestyle, inheriting and protecting intangible cultural heritage, and activating and spreading Xiangyun yarn culture.