[Digital photography skills: examples of common mistakes made by beginners] Introduction to photography skills

Let's take a look at the common mistakes of beginners' photography! ! The following are the digital photography skills I have carefully arranged for you: examples of common mistakes in novice photography, I hope you like them.

Examples of common mistakes in beginners' photography

1. All four corners of a photo taken with a wide-angle lens are black.

Mainly because the coverage of the flash does not match the field of view of the wide-angle lens. Most of the flash coverage of the old flash can only be matched with a small wide-angle lens of 35mm. The field of view of the 28mm wide-angle lens is larger than that of the 35mm lens by 12 degrees, so the picture appears black due to insufficient light. There are two ways to prevent it. One is to add a diffuser to the light, so that the flash can become scattered light and expand the coverage. The second is to cover the lamp holder with white gauze to scatter the light, so that the whole picture receives light evenly.

2. The color of the picture is blurred

After troubleshooting the camera, hand shake and other reasons, it is necessary to check whether the lens is dusty or stained. Don't blow with your mouth or wipe with a towel in this situation. Blow the balloon to blow off the dust on the lens, then brush off the debris with a lens brush, and finally wipe it with lens paper to make the lens as bright as new. If there are still sweat stains, fingerprints and oil stains, they should be sent to the camera repair shop to be carefully removed with lens cleaning solution.

3. The main characters are vague and the background is clear.

There are two possibilities. First, when the manual focusing camera focuses, the focus is not on the subject or after the subject is focused, it moves in the composition and does not refocus, so that the subject is not within the depth of field; Second, when using an autofocus camera, you didn't press the shutter? Lock? The focus is recombined, so that the focus drifts to other places in the combination.

4. The first few rows of photos are clear, and the last few rows are blurred.

For multi-row group photos, to ensure that everyone's image is clear, three points must be achieved: First, selective focusing. Five rows of people take a group photo and choose the focus of the second row; Seven rows of people take a group photo, and choose the third row to focus. Second, the aperture should not be set too large, and f4-8 is generally suitable to ensure sufficient depth of field. Third, the shutter speed should not be lower than 1/60 seconds, lest someone turn his head and blur the image.

5. This film has not been exposed.

There are two main reasons: first, the lens cover is forgotten when the paraxial camera shoots, and the scene in the viewfinder is clear, but the imaging light does not enter the lens, and the film is not sensitive. Second, 135 manual film winding of SLR camera is not in place, and the film axis of the cassette is not paid attention to during film winding. Due to the slide of the film head, when the film winding handle is moved, although the shutter has been wound, the counter counts as usual, but the film does not move in the cassette. Although the counter shows that 36 shots have been taken, none of them are actually photosensitive.

6. There are shadows in all four corners of the photo.

There are two main reasons: first, the focal length of the hood and the lens does not match. A wide-angle lens with a focal length of 28mm uses a 50mm standard hood, which will block light from entering the lens. Because the field of vision of the pan-tilt is 47 degrees, and the field of vision of the 28mm wide-angle lens is 75 degrees. Second, when shooting with a 28mm wide-angle lens, a UV lens has been worn on the lens. If you wear a polarizer again, because the polarizer is composed of two pieces of glass with a thick frame, adding it to the frame of the UV lens will inevitably block the light from entering the lens and make the four corners of the photo black. If you need a polarizer when shooting with a wide-angle lens, you must first remove the UV lens and then install the polarizer, so that the picture can receive light evenly.

7. The color tone is dead white or dull black, lacking the shadow level.

No matter whether the photo is black and white or color, only when the exposure is accurate can we get bright colors and rich layering. White photos are overexposed; Dark photos are underexposed. Built-in metering system, designed according to the medium gray reflectivity of 18%, can accurately expose most scenes and restore colors. However, when encountering some special light or scenes, it needs to be corrected on the basis of photometry. If you don't increase the exposure of 1.5-2 when shooting snow scenes, the snow will turn gray; If the exposure of 1.5-2 is not reduced, the black coal will turn dark gray. Because even the most advanced camera has no thinking function, it will only treat all the scenery with medium gray tone with reflectivity of 18%.

8. The photos taken with electronic flash are still underexposed.

There are two reasons: First, the aperture setting is too small. The flash speed of the flash is generally above11000 seconds, and the shutter has lost its light control function, mainly relying on the aperture size to control the exposure. If you take a picture with a flash and there is no automatic shift, you must first calculate the aperture coefficient. Second, the flash power is insufficient. The newly bought flash lamp has to be charged and discharged for more than ten times to make the capacitor in the lamp active before it can be officially used. The old flashlight charging signal lamp only has 70% power, and it can be fully charged in 10 second under normal use.

9. Half of the photos taken by a SLR camera with a flash are black shadows.

This is because the curtain shutter of SLR camera is not synchronized with the flash. SLR cameras take pictures with flash, so pay attention to the synchronization of the flash (the speed of each camera is different).

10, the background of portrait photos is clear and gorgeous, and the characters are embarrassing and dark.

First, backlight shooting uses average metering, which does not add light to people's faces; Second, the background is bright (snow, desert, beach), and the data recommended by internal photometry is used for exposure. The background exposure is moderate and the characters are underexposed. There are three ways to solve this problem: one is to fill characters with flash; The second is to add 1-2 exposure on the basis of photometry; The third is to approach people and aim at the face to measure light. Lock? After exposure (use the photometric memory button or change to manual exposure), return to the original position for composition, focusing and shooting.

1 1, take a group photo, and the surrounding people are incomplete.

There are two situations. First, the head-up camera ignores parallax when shooting, and the picture is too full; Second, although there is no parallax when using a SLR camera, there is no space around the picture. When printing, some pictures are crushed around, and the color enlarger only prints about 95% of the negative. So no matter what camera you use, you should leave some room for composition. Don't let the characters stand on top, fill the picture.

12, the photo has scratches.

If there are scratches on the negative, it may be caused by two things. First, the old cassette used in the large-scale sub-packaging roll was polluted, and sand was caught in the flannel at the film outlet, which scratched the film; Second, the flat plate on the back of the camera has burrs, and the film is scratched by the film. Before using the subcontracted roll, it is best to take the film head back into the film box, carefully clean the flannel at the film mouth with a blowing balloon and a brush, and then take the film head out for later use. If the camera platen has burrs, carefully grind them off with a small piece of No.0 sandpaper (be careful not to scratch the paint film on the platen).

13. The tone of the whole photo is blue.

First, the color temperature is very high. On cloudy or thin clouds, the color temperature of natural light is as high as 7000- 12000K, and the color temperature correction filter is not used; Second, there are dense tree-lined or huge blue advertisements, curtain walls and other environmental reflections. The solution is to use Leiden 85B color temperature reduction filter when shooting. If there is blue ambient light reflection nearby, try to move to an open field to shoot.

14, the tone of the whole photo is orange.

The following three situations may make the tone of a photo red. (1) Use the sunburst film under illumination, without using the Leiden 80B color temperature conversion filter; (2) The color temperature of sunlight in the morning and evening is only 3200K, and low color temperature causes orange-red tone; (3) There are huge red advertisements or red buildings around, reflecting red light.

15, when taking a portrait with a flash, the rear projection is thicker.

In flash photography, if a person is close to the background, there will be a black projection on the background. There are three solutions: first, the characters are far away from the background, so that the projection falls on the ground; The second is to remove the flash and connect it with a flexible cord for horizontal flash shooting; The third is to use light-colored ceiling or wall to shoot with reflective flash.

16, the use of flash, like red eye.

Red eye is easy to appear when flashing in weak light. The reason is that under the dim light, the pupil of the human eye is enlarged, and the strong light of the flash lamp suddenly illuminates, so that the pupil cannot be contracted. When strong light shines directly on the retina, the blood-red color of the visual nerve will appear in the photo. Red eye? . There are four ways to overcome it: first, remove the flash lamp and connect it with a flexible cord for lateral flash; The second is to let the eyes of the subject not look directly at the camera lens; Third, before shooting, let the subject look at strong light sources such as electric lights and windows for three minutes or flash once before shooting; The fourth is to use a flash with red-eye prevention function.

17. There are shutter stripes on the TV screen.

China's television system transmits 25 pictures per second. If the shutter speed is higher than 1/30 seconds, shutter streaks will appear. Ordinary cameras shoot TV pictures, and the appropriate shutter is115 seconds.

18, the snow scene is gloomy and the snow is not white.

This is due to underexposure. The ground is highly reflective in snowy days, so the exposure instrument still sets the exposure combination according to the reflectivity of 18%, which will restore the snow scene to a medium gray tone. If the average photometry or partial center photometry is used as the exposure standard, the exposure is insufficient at 1-2 level, and the white snow becomes light gray. The prevention method is to compensate according to the increase of 1-2 exposure (increase of 1-2 aperture or decrease of 1-2 shutter speed).

A method to describe dynamics with unique shutter speed

An ideal photo showing an athlete's graceful posture should not only have a complete composition, beautiful light and proper tone, but also show the dynamics of the subject wonderfully. And reflect the dynamic is often with some unique shutter speed, its form generally has two kinds:

Solidification dynamics allows readers to watch the thrilling and intense action carefully from the picture. Should we use 1/250 at this time? 11000 seconds until a faster shutter speed. They can clearly record the dynamic body and reveal the whole picture of the dynamic body. When using this shutter speed, the whole world seems to be in a state of solidification, and all the dynamics disappear. The fierce competition will suddenly become silent and the smoke will disperse. People can see all the tiny details in the fierce fighting scene from the photos. The photos taken in this way are mainly not to render the atmosphere, but to be good at analyzing the details (as shown above). Although the picture is still, the splashing waves and the athletes' movements are frozen, we can feel the fierce competition scene and the struggling state of the rowers from the snow-white waves, the athletes' grim expressions and their all-out paddle-holding behavior.

When taking this kind of photos, the shutter speed selected by the camera is related to the speed and direction of the moving object itself. Generally, the required shutter speed can be obtained according to such a simple formula: when the subject enters the viewing range at an oblique angle at a medium distance (10m), multiply the moving speed of the subject by10, and then take the reciprocal of the product (if there is no corresponding speed gear on the camera, you can choose a similar speed gear), which is the required shutter speed. If the athlete's long-distance running speed is 30 km/h, multiplied by 10, and the reciprocal is 1/300, the shutter speed of 1/250 seconds can be used. If the athlete is facing the camera, he can slow down the shutter speed by one step, that is,1125 seconds. If the player passes the ball horizontally, he can get to 1/500 seconds faster.

Performance dynamics

This is to record the athlete's movements with a slow or even slow shutter speed, so that the audience can feel immersive when watching and have a strong sense of movement or speed. At this time, due to the slow exposure of the shutter speed, the background and the athlete's own image will produce stripes to varying degrees, which makes people feel faster (as shown below). Generally speaking, the slower the shutter speed, the more serious the blur and the stronger the motion. Of course, if we can consider the focal length of the lens and the distance between the camera and the subject, the effect will be more remarkable. Usually, the longer the focal length, the closer the distance and the stronger the movement; The shorter the focal length and the farther the distance, the weaker the motion.

When shooting a dynamic subject, it is best to take some static objects as foil in the picture, which can often make the dynamic effect more intense through the contrast between reality and reality.

Photometric skills in digital photography

It often happens that some parts in the same picture are bright and some parts are dark, so it is difficult to expose both bright and dark parts normally. No matter how dark or how bright the area is, it will affect the photometric effect of the whole picture. But in many cases, the blue sky and the sea are used as bright backgrounds, or at night as dark backgrounds. We will choose other scenes for comparison. In fact, the effect and purpose we want to achieve are the same, and the operation skills are the same. Let's look at this photo first, which was taken with a camera with average light measurement.

Aperture f/8.0 shutter1125 canon EOS 20d

It is easy to see that the pigeon cage in the middle is dark and has no layers; In order to increase the exposure of the dark part, the viewfinder can completely frame the dark part and take the dark part as the scene of the whole picture. If you measure the light again, you will find the aperture f/8.0 and shutter 1/50(Av takes precedence).

In order to ensure that the level of the bright part is not lost, we take the middle value of these two photometric values, that is, the aperture f/8.0 and the shutter 1/80. (You can readjust the exposure combination according to your personal habits. ) The following figure is obtained from the above operation, which can be compared.

There will be many such situations when shooting. You can decide a certain part of exposure value according to your shooting needs.