Photography: How to shoot the circular trajectory of the stars and the circular trajectory of the stars? I know this is a long-term exposure. How do you photograph the stars? Definitely not.

I came across a good tutorial and shared it with you.

I. Choice of geographical location

It is normal that there are no stars in the city. Because the light pollution in the city is too serious. Completely covered the faint light of the stars. In addition, due to serious pollution, the visibility of the air in the city is very low. Dust is flying. So I am lucky to see the stars. Not to mention the Milky Way.

Therefore, when choosing a shooting location, it is best to choose a village that is relatively far from the city. Plateau and plain areas, of course. Such as Tibet and Xinjiang. It's definitely a dream place to shoot the stars.

If there is no chance to go to Tibet and Xinjiang, a sparsely populated and pollution-free place. The Milky Way can also be photographed near the city.

1, a mountain with higher altitude near the city.

2. If you photograph the Milky Way. Choose suburbs that deviate from the direction of urban light pollution.

3. The mountainous area near the city. There are mountains that can block the lights of the city.

On the second point, how to judge the direction of the Milky Way. Here's an answer.

2. Weather choice

1. Shooting the stars requires very high weather. The best weather is sunny after rain and cloudless in Wan Li. This couldn't be better Because there are clouds blocking the stars.

Of course, if there are rare clouds, sometimes a very beautiful picture can be formed. Time lapse photography, of course. Some clouds also have a more dynamic feeling.

Here I recommend a website called Sunshine Clock, which is more accurate and detailed than the weather forecast. A website dedicated to astronomical photography. /(You can check the cloud cover, air visibility and weather every hour of the day)

2. Shoot the moon at night. Generally shoot the Milky Way under the starry sky, and try to choose a night without the moon. Here I recommend a website:

Http://www.cwb.gov.tw/V7/astronomy/moonface.htm,, this website, has a vacancy for one month. The time of sunrise and sunset. The moon has no time to rise and set. But it seems to be from Taiwan Province province. Only the moon phase diagram is more accurate. I will introduce a software about the rise and fall of the moon.

Three. equipment selection

Because the light of the stars is weak, the earth is spinning. Therefore, when shooting on the earth, the stars will keep moving, and the equipment needs a large aperture and high ISO.

Personally, I think Nikon D3s and 14-24 2.8 are the best equipment for shooting the starry sky here, which I have always dreamed of.

I used Canon 6D and 17-40 F4 lenses. I am also very satisfied with the current use. Canon 6D's high sense is really good. The only regret is that there is no aperture of F2.8, and there are many excellent lenses.

Tuli11-16f2.8 The best lenses are well-made and have delicate pictures.

Sanyang14F2.8 The price of more than 2000 is absolutely conscience. Shooting stars all over the plane is not a cheap choice.

Canon 14F2.8 should be the best lens for shooting starry sky with Canon SLR at present.

Canon 24L F 1.4 large aperture has more room to play. The disadvantage is that the focal length is not wide enough. It would be great if there was a connection.

Nikon 14-24 F2.8 This lens conforms to the high sensitivity of Nikon D3S. It's really amazing to shoot the stars.

Of course, there are many ways to play. For example, fisheye can photograph the complete Galaxy Arch Bridge. You can shoot at 50 fixed focus and 85 fixed focus. Excellent image quality and large aperture can shoot very delicate parts of the Milky Way. If a patient friend can use 50 or 85, use a dozen or dozens of pieces to make a complete galaxy. Tripod: Tripod I recommend a tripod with stable direction. If there is an opportunity, I will buy a professional camera tripod to shoot stars and delay. Because shooting the stars and delay are crucial to stability. Spend hours shooting the orbits of stars every night. If the tripod is unstable. The slightest movement may waste a night's work. If the tripod quality is not particularly good. It doesn't matter. Try to lower the center. Many times, shooting the starry sky is done on the top of the mountain. It's windy. Lower your center of gravity. Hanging heavy objects under the tripod can effectively avoid the tripod shaking.

Cable release: It is better to have timer function. I used the cable release of Yongnuo branch. So far, there have been no problems. Convenient. It's just poor quality.

In addition, you need a hood to effectively avoid dew on the lens when shooting at night. It's best to take off the UV mirror directly. First, it affects the image quality. Second, it will cause fogging of the lens.

4. Shooting parameters and focusing mode.

Because everyone's equipment is different. The shooting parameters need to be explored by everyone.

I usually use the combination of 6D+ 17-40. In a better environment, a 30-second shutter and an isop4 aperture of 6400 are usually used to expose the Milky Way. If your aperture is 2.8, you can reduce some ISO to reduce noise. Or reduce the shutter time to avoid the stars leaving tracks. The longer the focal length, the easier it is for stars to leave tracks. This is also the case. 17mm I use a 30-second shutter. When the photo is enlarged 100%, you can still see some traces.

Focusing method:

1, manual focusing is infinite. The final focal length was obtained through multiple shots. This is more troublesome. But more effective.

2. Enlarge the real scene by 10 times, and then focus manually. This is very accurate, but the operation is more troublesome. It is not easy to find stars in the real-time viewfinder. You should be able to find it after many experiments.

Both methods can leave a mark on the lens or remember the position of the focus ring after the first alignment. Next time, you can focus directly on this place manually.

Verb (abbreviation for verb) mosaic of the Milky Way.

This is more about the experience of photographers. It's not like shooting in the daytime. There is a reference in the viewfinder. All by feeling, by experience. But it should be easy for everyone to test it several times. It would be better if there is a professional panoramic pan/tilt.

Let me talk about my experience. Generally, the Milky Way across the head will choose to shoot horizontally and connect vertically, so I will start from the ground. Take the first picture after the composition is completed. Then slowly adjust the translation/tilt vertically upward. If you don't grasp it well, you can take more pictures, and it doesn't matter if there are more overlapping places. Take 3-5 pictures in turn, and you can take a complete picture of the Milky Way. If you have a three-dimensional tripod head, you can show your advantages at this time.

Generally, I will choose vertical and horizontal, horizontal and horizontal joints for Yinhe arch bridge. Similarly, horizontally rotate the translation/tilt from left to right or from right to left. Just don't turn vertically.

About synthesis software. The panoramic mosaic function in PS is good (in file-automatic -photomerge), and it can be automatically synthesized. However, it is limited. If the previous lens is not good enough, it will not be easy to splice successfully.

Another independent software is called ptgui, which is very useful. You can choose the tracing point and panoramic synthesis mode.

The orbit of stars is introduced later, so I won't post it to you.