Hiking Tibet: Ask Ma for directions to Tibet.

One day, I turned to an old book. There is a passage on the title page of the book: I want to take you to a place where I have breathed the purest air. This place has never been in contact with our world. The sun, wind, horses, sky and stars here are warm and sacred, and there is nowhere to be found. There are blessings from the gods here, and the relics here are sacred but can be freely shared. I don't want you to describe it anymore. I want to take you to this place.

( 1)

At the end of July, the weather in S city was hot, and the traffic on the 3 18 national highway was like a shuttle. I packed my bags and waited for the bus to set sail to realize my dream of going to Tibet. I want to see the world mentioned in Under the Sandalwood Pillow, Tibet Geography magazine, Life of Everything and Tibetan Poetry by Tibetan poet Zhang.

At 20: 59 on the 29th, Juan and I left Sichuan on the T22 Lhasa Express, when it was drizzling.

The scenery along the way, from the beautiful mountains and rivers of Shu, faded into the vast grassland of Hoh Xil, the unrestrained river, the calm of Qinghai Lake and the sacredness of Tanggula. Groups of Tibetan antelopes bowed their heads and grazed, and several black ink-and-wash wild yaks wandered under the snow-capped mountains. The lake is quiet, as if it had entered a sweet dream. China's classical freehand brushwork seems to be hanging outside the window, with a touch of warmth, pride and delicacy. In front of the window and on the desktop, I kept the only book I carried with me. At that time, the world was small. I like its name very much, and I haven't read many short stories. When the green leather car stopped at Lhasa station, all the confused thoughts were temporarily quiet. Stepping on this pure land, like all Tibetans traveling in Tibet, is tantamount to seeing the clouds low and blue, and the joy burns slightly.

(2)

Sun Island, the only place in the world where the sun is directly above during the day, is the origin of the name "Sunlight City" in Lhasa, brother Guanghua said. It is actually a wholesale market for all kinds of herbs, seasonal clothing and daily necessities. I narrowed my eyes and looked up at the dazzling golden wheel. It should be fiery red in July and August, because it is very cold at this high altitude for the first time.

Walking through Shenlongtan with an umbrella to Potala Square, when 999 palaces stood upright in front of me, I silently nodded and walked hand in hand. This temple, the legend accumulated over the years, has been told by the world thousands of times, and I finally make a pilgrimage to you.

Follow the monks to turn the scriptures in Potala and Shenlongtan, touch the golden urn, and listen to the Tibetan prayers of the people before and after, thinking that history is like a wheel, running over the joys and sorrows of the world like mustard tuber, giving birth to sadness. If the journey in the world is just a pilgrimage, it is not a pity to live in the wind and sleep on the road. However, some journeys cannot reach the wilderness of Canaan. How many generations have you changed to travel with the people you love?

It is the second day to worship Buddha in Yusra Temple. Together with Gandan Temple and drepung monastery, it is also called "the three major temples in Lhasa". From outside the mountain gate, there is an eagle hovering on the mountainside. We had planned to explore the eagle's face on the mountain, but we had to give it up because we were not familiar with the terrain.

At the foot of the mountain, Tibetan monks and believers in red robes and tourists from all over the world pass by. Pilgrims knelt down and looked up at the world. I sang Sanskrit among the believers with incense, held Hada in front of the Buddhist shrine, and made a sincere pilgrimage. Monks in the temple are doing evening work. The Sanskrit in the Buddhist temple is brightly lit, butter lamps shine and Zen incense fills the air, which makes people feel like a lifetime ago. It seems that they have been meditating and chanting here for thousands of years and have never become vulgar. There is a saying in "Riding Sichuan and Tibet", the banner hunting of Tianya community: the wind and frost emperor has been reincarnated several times, and he does not hide the Buddha's name to recite Buddha. There are many huge stones in the temple, carved with exquisite thangka, and the pigments are all made of natural minerals, which are very bright and are said to last for several years. I suddenly quieted down and remembered a poem by Mr. Zixuan:

"Distance is like a disease, just like my heart. This disease is mainly composed of you.

Every medicine is three-point poison, a lot of singing and dancing and happiness.

Looking at the green Tara on the wall is so quiet that I can't afford to hit my stomach. "

When I was leaving, I heard other tourists ask what the small house on the hillside was for. The tour guide explained that it was the only celestial burial platform in Lhasa, so there were vultures all the time. We turned pale at once and were glad that we didn't climb the rock at that time.

(3)

On August 5th, the visit to Tibet Museum coincided with the free open day. Murals, tibetan opera masks, gold and silver bronzes, gilded glass, scriptures, jade seals, ivory bottles and local musical instruments and costumes were displayed one by one, showing the vast history of Tibet. There is an exhibition hall, which tells the history of Tibet's development and how Tibet moved from poverty and backwardness to today's enlightenment and prosperity. There is also an exhibition hall, which displays scenic photos along the way from Beijing, 40 meters above sea level, to Lhasa Railway Station, 3650 meters away. We sat on the cold floor and watched, giggling over and over again until our neck ached, and we didn't give up.

Originally, the tour group went to Namco in the afternoon, but unfortunately the tour group was full that day. We three girls all came out of nowhere with lonely ambitions, so we decided to go to Namco by ourselves after a little calculation. The next day, I took the shuttle bus to Dangxiong at Dongjiao Bus Terminal. The bus was full of Tibetans. Unfortunately, we can't speak this language, so we have to sleep. Influenced by the donkey friends of the Central Academy of Fine Arts, Dangxiong decided to hitchhike to Namco. On the way, he met a couple he met in Shangri-La and went to Tibet together. There are a few clouds hanging low in the sky, so you can reach for them. Unknown wildflowers on the roadside, yellow or blue or purple, occasionally reveal their beautiful figures to surprise us with gifts. Mani stones are piled up and danced in the wind, and horse flags are flying.

Because of the scenery along the way, we temporarily forgot our destination and realized that this is the real travel and practice. On the last bus, I finally saw the sunset in Namco, thousands of miles away. At this time, the wind is combing my hair, the fish is gargling, and the sunset is as shy as the bride. At first, the whole sky seemed to fall to the ground like the sun, and then it gradually became the remnant of a gold powder box knocked over by sea urchins in the ocean. Gold and blue blend, and the dream is like a fairyland. Finally, only half a copper coin is left hanging over the mountain.

On Valentine's Day on the seventh day of the seventh lunar month, at 5: 30 in the morning, I rushed to the top of the mountain where I could see the sun jump out of the lake, wrapped in a thick blanket from the Shepherd Hotel. 47 18 meters above sea level, speechless. Namco Lake is more than 70 kilometers long from east coast to west coast, and more than 30 kilometers wide from south coast to north coast, with a total area of 1.900 square kilometers. It is the highest saltwater lake in the world, the deepest part of which is more than 33 meters. It is called "the three holy lakes in Tibet" by Mabangyongcuo. The lake is mainly replenished by the melting of snow and ice in Nyainqentanglha Mountain, and the lake is clear and transparent.

At 7: 20, at the first moment of dawn, the old snow on the top of Nyainqentanglha Mountain nearby shone with Buddha's light, just like when I was in the old city, my old friend silently accompanied me and listened to me telling me that time and tide wait for no man. It was not until the photographer pulled me into the scene that I slowly covered up my memory of Chai Fei and hugged Namco, the sapphire left by the gods, with my back to the camera. When the sun shines on the backpack, the red-billed gull and the Tibetan mastiff sing together and bid us farewell to Namco and Nyainqentanglha Mountain.

(4)

Bumping back to Lhasa city, I stopped at the end of Balang Street with my traveling companions, watching five white pigeons obliquely pass through the clear sky, and then stopped safely on the opposite roof of Jokhang Temple; The prayer flags on the stupa are swaying with the wind, and the scriptures are faintly discernible; Mulberry smoke slowly overflowed from the White Pagoda to wash the people, and the ascetic kowtowed step by step through the crowd and the bustling long street; The cart is full of dried fruits, and the candied fruit passes by, and the skin under the wall is dark. The little boy opened his lazy eyes and stared at it for a while, then walked away. ...

Frame after frame is as calm as a roll of old light and shadow.

There are many merchants in Balang Street, and the utensils and jewelry on the booth are dazzling and colorful. I bought a gray felt hat and casually strolled into the "Gu Xiuna" bookstore, as if it were an affair under the guidance of God. Books on Tibetan religion, culture, art, history, geography, folk customs, etc. On the wooden shelf of "Gu Xiuna", such as everyone, gently bypass the side, waiting for you to suddenly catch a glimpse of her. When I left, I came back with "Tibetan literature".

No. 10 will meet with my companions, and there is no such thing. 1 1 will look back and bid farewell to the holy land. Goodbye, the splendid appearance of singing in the wind while I was dragging garbage. Goodbye, when I watched the sunrise alone in Namco, the sadness of three people picking up garbage and evading tickets slowly walked through the sea buckthorn bushes waiting for us in the distance, stationed in the Sangdahe River in Namco, the donkey friends who guided us all the way, the Tibetan boys who led the way by motorcycle, and the dark and innocent faces of the children in the car plateau. When I hitchhiked over the mountain pass of 5 190 meters,

There are a few words in Shu Guozhi's The Art of Wandering: Too many people in the world have never felt this way in their whole lives. Why is it so difficult? It's just that the market is too tight to cheat. Only after a long journey, tired bones and simple thoughts can we get it in the empty and desolate Liao country. I always feel that traveling alone in the wilderness is the most decisive gesture and the clearest, purest and simplest thought. Just like Xu Xiake takes a trip to the mountains and water, he is not afraid of wild animals in order to visit famous mountains and rivers and explore the secrets of nature. There is no limit for a walker, and he can be a Tao everywhere.

No matter where I go and what kind of life scenery I see, Tibet is a door I can't avoid. I will always remember one night, the night was as cold as water and the atmosphere was as quiet as a malicious attack. I moved a chair, wrapped in a thick shawl, and looked at the stars on the plateau at an altitude of 4 thousand meters, which gave me an illusion. The stars saw how charming I was, and I saw what the stars should look like. The dazzling stars in the sky are dense, just like the score of the eighth chapter of the etude "849" I dug up one summer. Because of this starry sky, I don't want to close my eyes and feel as happy as dance music. I didn't go back to the house until the cold soaked my bones and the wet frost stained my temples.

(5)

Outside the window, the train on the track is like a crucian carp, following all the way. Ge Sang and highland barley have been fighting for the autumn rain in September. The green leather carriage carried me away from the north. Although I have walked the road and seen the scenery, I am tired, but I still have not abandoned my heroism and agitation, and I still walk on the road with an unruly temperament.

People come and go in this world, so I have to ask the horse for directions and talk about my earthly destination.

The following are some fragments of this trip: