What is the beauty of the cheongsam under the pommel horse?

There is also a folklore about the origin of wearing cheongsam in Shenyang.

Once upon a time, there lived a fisherman near Jingbo Lake. She has been fishing by the lake since she was a child, and her face is red and black. People call her a black girl. Black girls are not only handsome, but also ingenious. She can easily work on the kang, and she is the best among the fishing experts. At that time, Manchu women were all wearing fat skirts handed down from ancient times, and black girls often turned around the river when fishing. She found it inconvenient to be dragged by the skirt, so she cut a gown with many buttons and a dress. This robe is open on both sides. When fishing in the river, you can lift it and tie it around your waist. Usually it can be put down as a skirt, which fits well and saves cloth.

One year, the emperor dreamed that the late king told him that in the old capital of the northern country, there was a girl riding a earth dragon, wearing a flat-topped black helmet, holding an octagonal white jade square seal and wearing a twelve-silk robe, which could help him govern the world. So the emperor immediately sent someone to look for him. An imperial envoy led a group of people to look for him for a long time, but he couldn't find him.

Manchu lady in cheongsam vest

It also happened that one day, the black girl wore a gown made by herself, holding a basin in her hand, and put a piece of tofu in the basin to visit menstruation's house. When she passed the ideal city, she saw a group of people gathered there. I don't know what she was looking at, but she crowded in to watch the fun. There were too many people to squeeze in, so she climbed the semi-decayed earth wall next to her and rode on it. The sun in dog days is particularly poisonous and makes people dizzy. The black girl had nothing to hide, so she held tofu in her hand and made a clay pot to buckle on her head. It happened that the imperial envoys also came to this place. He saw her at a glance and shouted, "Here comes the empress." Someone asked, "How do you know she is an empress?" The imperial envoy said, "Isn't that earth wall the earth dragon she rode? The small clay basin on her head is a black helmet with a flat top and rolled eaves, and the white jade octagonal seal is on her hand. The twelve-button robe she is wearing is twelve silk robes. " Say that finish, ordered the attendants to carry the black girl into Beijing, put on the royal costume and send it to the palace. When the emperor saw that the black girl was so handsome, he immediately named her the black queen.

Manchu women in full dress and nails

The black queen used her wisdom in the palace to help the emperor handle political affairs and did many good things for the poor, which won the emperor's favor. Later, she found it inconvenient to wear palace clothes, so she changed into a gown made by herself and changed all the palace clothes into this one. She wants everyone in the palace to wear this kind of frugal and convenient clothes. Unexpectedly, her practice caused the jealousy of the Queen of Nishinomiya. It turns out that before the black emperor entered the palace, the queen of Nishinomiya was the most favored by the emperor. Since the Black Empress entered the palace, the Xigong Empress has been neglected by the emperor, only listening to the voice of silk and bamboo, not listening to the emperor. Xigong Empress is jealous of the beauty and virtue of Black Empress. As soon as she saw the black queen change clothes, she slandered the emperor and said, "The black queen changed her palace clothes to destroy the unity of our Lord." Hearing this, the emperor called the black queen to the temple.

I saw the black queen wearing her robe, which made her look slimmer and more handsome. The emperor was tired of seeing the uniform palace clothes in the palace. When he saw the black queen's clothes, he felt fresh and liked it more and more. So he said to the Xigong Empress, "The Black Empress is wearing the twelve brocade robes mentioned in my late king's dream. How can she say that she wants to destroy my country? From now on, this kind of clothing will be worn in the palace. " Empress Xigong had to argue strongly, and the emperor said coldly, "You don't have to say anything more, go back to the palace!" " "After I ignored her, and the black queen into the harem. Empress Nishinomiya begged a boring son, walked out of the room and returned to the palace, thinking of the emperor's neglect, and threw herself into the well that night.

From then on, not only the black queen was favored by the emperor, but also the women of the Eight Banners wore this gown. Later, people called this gown cheongsam, which is still loved by women.

The most distinctive costume of Manchu is cheongsam. Cheongsam is also called gown, which is called "garment interface" in Manchu. Manchu cheongsam, originally worn when riding and shooting, was formed in a long hunting career and adapted to the cold living environment in the north and the needs of shooting and hunting life. In the past, Manchu people, both men and women, wore "horseshoe sleeves" robes. After Nurhachi established the Eight Banners system, it became a "flag bearer" costume, so people later called it "cheongsam". Cheongsam is divided into single, cotton and leather. In the early Qing dynasty, its styles were generally collarless, broad-chested, waist-tied, left and four-sided. Dressing is not only fit, but also beneficial to riding and shooting. When hunting, you can also put dry food in front. This kind of cheongsam has two outstanding characteristics, one is collarless. In order to unify the clothing, Nurhachi once set a clothing system, which stipulated that "shawls and collars should be used for all court clothes, and only robes should be used for flat clothes." That is, uniforms can't lead children, and only royal dresses worn when entering the DPRK can add a large collar shaped like a shawl. The second feature is that there is also a half-moon sleeve head at the narrow cuff, which is shaped like a horseshoe, commonly known as "horseshoe sleeve". Wear it at ordinary times, and put it down to cover the back of your hand when hunting or fighting in winter, which not only plays a warm role like gloves, but also does not affect archery, so it is also called "arrow sleeve" (called "wow" in Manchu). After the Manchu entered the Central Plains, "letting go of wow-ha" became a prescribed action in the etiquette of the Qing Dynasty. When officials enter the court to meet the emperor or other princes and ministers, they must first open their horseshoe sleeves and then bow down with their hands on their knees. Cheongsam is also used to wearing a short gown, round neck, umbilical length, sleeve length and elbow length. Because this short jacket was originally worn when riding and shooting, it is convenient for riding and can keep out the cold, so it is named "jacket". In the early Qing Dynasty, the jacket was the "military uniform" of the Eight Banners soldiers. Later, it gradually became popular among the people, with more properties, styles and fabrics of a dress.

Manchu women under the banner

Traditional cheongsam has straight open collar or round neck, twisted collar, narrow sleeves, large lapel and right slit, no curve at the waist, no slit (later evolved into four-sided or two-sided slit), and wide hem buckle. A cheongsam worn by men, a belt, a sword hung on the belt, and a small pocket for sickle, flint, tinder, spoon, etc. Or wallets containing cigarettes and tobacco bags. It all depends on the convenience of riding and shooting activities. Some cheongsam have a long and short semi-circular sleeve head shaped like a horseshoe at the upper end of the cuff. Manchu men's cheongsam gradually changed from narrow sleeves to fat sleeves, and hypertrophy was the beauty.

Manchu high-necked cheongsam

Manchu women like to wear cheongsam with rolled sleeves and big breasts all year round, including single, clip, leather and cotton. Women's cheongsam pays attention to decorative embroidery and hemming, which is called "Han Tao" in Manchu. The neckline, sleeve head and skirt are inlaid with different colors of lace and colored teeth, many of which are beautiful, and some are as many as a dozen, which make them look symmetrical, slim and elegant. Among them, the cheongsam worn by the girl is narrower and longer than the calf. The cheongsam worn by young women is slightly wider and longer than their feet. The cheongsam worn by the old woman is more spacious and comfortable. Young women like to wear cheongsam with different colors and different piping, which is colorful and unique. The cheongsam, colorful robes, hairpins, fingers, golden claws and Tang Cui worn by upper-class women are all court-style and look elegant and handsome. Another kind of women's cheongsam is called "big sleeves". It is very beautiful to roll up the pattern in the sleeve.

The cheongsam style in the early Qing Dynasty advocated generosity and baldness (collarless, sleeves as wide as feet). At the end of Guangxu, the style of cheongsam began to advocate thinness and narrowness, and it was difficult to bend the arm, and the collar reached the ear.

Since the Republic of China, we have continuously improved it. The general style of cheongsam is: straight (high) collar, large chest on the right, loose chest, tight waist, different lengths of robe body, up to below the knee, slit on both sides, and the opening is decorated with inlay, inlay, rolling and other techniques, including long sleeves, middle sleeves, short sleeves, tight sleeves, wide sleeves and sleeves. Besides, all kinds of tops and coats can be made into dresses or four-point casual clothes by adding cheongsam. With the development of society, men's cheongsam is gradually abandoned. The styles of women's cheongsam are constantly changing, from wide waist and straight tube to tight curves and streamline. In modern times, cheongsam has been developing in the direction of fashion and modernization, and has become a unique style of women's clothing representing the Chinese nation in the world.