Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Photography major - How to sew handmade leather goods and how to process the edges of leather
How to sew handmade leather goods and how to process the edges of leather
Let me tell you about the production process! 1. Design a sample first! This sample is the cardboard for the design! (Not in this picture) 2. Cut the dough and wallet lining at the bottom! (There is no picture of this process) 3. Carve the leather on the dough (it can be done by hand or laser. There is no picture of this process) 4. According to the design characteristics, first sew the zipper of the lining and the lining. For some parts 5, the dough and lining are punched together. In order to sew the dough and lining together, the number of holes must be correct! 6. After stitching, process the edges of the leather bag, usually polishing and gluing, so that you won’t see the hair on the edges of the leather! It is also a kind of protection for leather! (You can see in the pictures there are two pictures, they show that the edge of the leather is a little wet! That is glue) 7. Do the final touches to the leather, color, and polish (wax) the leather of this wallet The dough is made of relatively hard vegetable blended leather, which is easy to carve and color! (You can also make some ordinary chrome-glued leather. This kind of leather is soft, so it cannot be carved! Chrome-glued leather can be made in the same way as cloth bags!) Leather goods production process (1) Leather goods production process (2) Conventional process And special craftsmanship often refers to various processes, production methods and production technologies in the production of leather goods, and is an important link that reflects the quality and grade of a product. It mainly includes the technology of material selection and cutting; technology and data such as shovel thickness, width, and slope; sewing needle shape, needle number, stitch length, margin, number of thread strands, thread color, thread quality, and Technology and data for open stitching, blind stitching, and semi-open stitching; selection and processing technology and data for auxiliary materials; technology and data for assembly processes, hemming, hemming, oil edges, glue, and lamination; branding, silk screen printing, and lathe Decorative threads, computer embroidery, punching, stringing, beading, nailing and other decorative techniques and data and other conventional and special techniques. The following are important processes for the design and production of leather goods. Most of them are traditional processes, that is, conventional processes, while special processes are mainly completed with the help of special equipment or special production techniques. For example, semi-open stitching technology, calender molding or large-area embossing technology, shoe polishing technology, etc. In addition, there are many other processes in the production and assembly process, which are also skills that manual workers in various processes must master. For sales staff, it is only required to have a certain degree of understanding of various processes in actual work, and to be able to use it as a reference for auxiliary product sales. Binding: Used to form various side ribs, ridges, springs or steel wire inner cores to set off or enhance the opening effect of the handbag, artificial material side ribs and rubber ribs without leather materials. Flat sewing: refers to a process that uses a flat sewing machine (i.e. flat car) to connect single or multi-layer overlapping components. It is the most commonly used process in leather sewing and is suitable for connecting or connecting components in opposite planes of leather products. Sewing decorative lines and other processes. Inseam: Also called blind seam or buried bag, it is a traditional process in which the edges of two parts are sewn together face to face and then turned over so that the seams of the parts are visible but the stitches are not visible. There are various methods of hand sewing in the early stage and sewing machine or high-end machine sewing after industrialization, which are suitable for the connection of internal and external components and the production of soft handbags. Top stitching: also called outside stitching, refers to a traditional craft that sews the inner layers of two connected parts so that the top and bottom lines can be seen. There are also hand sewing and high-end machine sewing methods, which are suitable for the final sewing process of the bag mouth and horizontal head three-dimensional structure of soft and shaped handbags. Binding and inseam: It is a decorative traditional process that sews the edge of one component with the edge and then attaches it to the edge of another related component for inseam. It is suitable for the design and production of soft handbags or shaped handbags with lattice structures. . Bundled edge topstitching: A decorative edge sandwiched between the edges of two oiled or hemmed components, using topstitching technology, is a decorative technique that is suitable for the design and production of various bag products. Hemming and topstitching: It is a decorative traditional craft that sews the edge of a flat component or the outline of a three-dimensional structure with a leather strip (or artificial leather strip, cloth strip, etc.) of a certain width. It has loose hemming. , single-sided hemming, double-sided hemming, as well as a variety of reverse hemming and nylon webbing inner hemming. The hemming of flat parts is sewn with a flat sewing machine, and the hemming of three-dimensional structures is sewn with a high-end machine. Sewing, suitable for the design and production of all leather goods. Oil edge: also called loose edge oil edge, it is a decorative traditional process that polishes the edge of leather product parts or fits the three-dimensional contour, and then rolls a layer of leather edge oil on it. The methods of oiling the edge can be divided into two types: the thick oil method and the thin oil method which only improve the edge color. The thick oil method is suitable for the processing of stiffer high-end leather products, which require smooth and full edges; the thin oil method is applicable to both soft and hard leather, but rough fibers and fitting gaps can be seen on the edges, and it is mostly used for the processing of casual handbags. Folding: A traditional process of thinning the edges of product parts or directly applying glue (pasting double-sided tape) on the edges of lining fabrics and artificial materials, and then folding them into the inner layer. It is suitable for all kinds of artificial leather packaging materials. and component processing of genuine leather products. Semi-open stitching: It is a fashionable process in which components at different levels are laminated together to form a three-dimensional structure and then sewn using a special column machine or oscillating machine. This process is suitable for sewing bag bottoms that cannot be turned over and three-dimensional wrap-around leather. It has a three-dimensional process effect where only the upper line is visible but the bottom line is not visible. In addition, the flat sewing machine sews components on the same layer. After assembly, only the upper line is visible but not the bottom line. The difference between them is that the flat sewing machine is suitable for flat sewing, while the column sewing machine and the oscillating machine are suitable for three-dimensional sewing.
Commonly used equipment for leather goods: cutting machine (beer machine), peeling machine, glue machine, folding machine, sewing machine, synchronous car, high head machine, grinding machine, nailing machine, etc. Special equipment: column cars, calenders, dryers, etc.
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