Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Photography major - How to shoot flowing water?
How to shoot flowing water?
Different styles of waterfalls can be photographed in different ways. Here are four ways to shoot waterfalls.
1, silky satin waterfall
Too slow shutter speed will completely atomize the waterfall and form a piece of white, which will greatly reduce the details and layering of the photo, which is not worth the candle. By controlling the shutter speed slowly, the place where the water flow is thin can present a translucent filiform texture, and the rock behind the water can be properly seen, while the place where the water flow is thick will have a satin effect, thus showing more details and layering of the waterfall. The shutter speed I use to shoot these waterfalls is 1 sec and IOS 100. Of course, the speed of different waterfalls is different. The higher the waterfall, the bigger the water drops and the faster the water flow. When shooting, you need to take more photos with different shutter speeds for comparison and selection.
Polarizers should be used to shoot waterfalls, because most waterfalls are atomized into white, and the brightness is higher, especially on sunny days, so it is not easy to slow down the shutter speed. Using polarizer can reduce the brightness of waterfall, slow down glare and increase exposure time.
At the same time, using a small aperture to expand the range of depth of field is conducive to shooting a wide waterfall sideways, so that both close-range and distant view can be high-definition. The recommended aperture is less than f/ 16.
It is best to use a tripod for slow photography. If not, you can borrow stones or trees around you to place the camera, so as to avoid shaking when holding it.
2. Slow-flowing waterfall
When shooting in the backlight environment, the rocks, trees and other scenery around the waterfall are in the slow light environment, and the layering is weak. If the shutter speed is too slow, the water will turn white and form a Gao Fancha with other scenery, and the layering and details will be lost. When shooting in such an environment, the shutter speed can be appropriately increased on the basis of the shooting speed of the filiform waterfall in front, so that the water flows into discontinuous lines where the water is fine, and rocks behind the water appear, which weakens the brightness of the water flow on the screen and enriches the overall layering. Waterfalls can also shoot the effect of slow flow, rather than complete solidification.
Adding polarizer can filter out diffuse reflection and glare, reduce the brightness of white waterfall and enrich the layering between waterfall and rock.
The shutter speed I used in the following photos is 1/2 1 sec, and IOS 100. Everyone's filming. Shooting.
3. Frozen and flapping waterfalls
When shooting a waterfall at close range, we can use a high-speed shutter to solidify the pouring water and shoot the cheerful rhythm of the particles jumping.
Adding polarizer can filter out diffuse reflection and glare, reduce the brightness of white waterfall and enrich the layering between waterfall and rock.
The shutter speed of my photo took11000 seconds, and IOS 100.
4. Contrast of fog texture between metal and water flow.
Don't use a polarizer when shooting a stream in the shade, but highlight the weak reflection of the water surface and condense the running water into a metallic texture with a slow shutter speed. Different water speeds require different shutter speeds, so you need to take more photos of different speeds to choose from.
The shutter speed I use is115 seconds12 seconds, and IOS 100 for your reference.
Of course, due to the slow shutter speed, you need to use a tripod to avoid shaking the camera by hand.
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