I wonder whether the large aperture of telephoto lens is more important or anti-shake?

Your demand is mainly scenery, and occasionally people are like it, so it is best to choose 70-300mm or 100-400mm for telephoto, but anti-shake really depends on people's natural hand shaking. For me, the telephoto lens is basically impossible to shoot without anti-shake. But some people are born with steady hands, which are only available to shooters. Every time they shoot telephoto, they have the conditions to set up a tripod. Maybe anti-shake is not important. In the portrait of the environment, the telephoto part chooses the scenery as the main focus, and when considering the portrait, it is first determined not to choose the lens with the longest focal length below 200mm (inclusive), at least 70-300 mm. In fact, whether it's 70-300mm or 100-400mm or 100-500mm, it's all close-ups of portraits or pictures of snow-capped mountains. These portraits are all captured when shooting, and there is no condition to use a tripod. Anti-shake is necessary.

In Tibet, telephoto shot snow-capped mountains and white clouds. 100-500mm is very useful. If the lens is 200mm, there will be no such effect. And in order to find the angle to finish shooting quickly-people come and go in the scenic spot, and there is no condition to use a tripod. Only this one is on a tripod, the altitude is too high, 5 100 meters, and there are few tourists, so you can arrange a companion to walk. But for example, shooting snow-capped mountains during the day and bringing a tripod every time is really not acceptable. Some friends like to use LCD for framing and composition like mobile phones, which is ok without considering stability, but it is not suitable for telephoto. Most people imagine that using telephoto in Africa means taking the tripod to the car, but it is actually impossible to put it down. At this time, bean curd is a must!

Anti-shake of telephoto lens is very necessary. You take some pictures with 400mm hands and turn off the anti-shake. When I was in middle school, my hands shook badly, especially when I was holding and putting down light things. Some friends even said that I couldn't stand dishes and things like that, and I was shaking badly! But it's a good thing I didn't shake when I filmed it. Ten three-pointers in a row-no interference. With a telephoto of about 300mm, you can see it with the naked eye. Fortunately, the anti-shake of RF lens is very powerful now. This is my RF70-200mmF2.8LISUSM Actually, 1/6 will do. Use a tripod every time you shoot. When shooting the scenery, you can still do it without bothering to shoot the sunrise and the moon at fixed points. And if you catch wild animals, you may not even dare to get off at first. Get off and open the trunk to open the tripod. It is estimated that the wolves are gone!

If you want to shoot people, then the blur brought by a large aperture can't be given by anti-shake, and 80-200/F2.8 definitely has an advantage. If you want to shoot scenery, the aperture is not so important. We usually focus on small and medium aperture, and anti-shake is definitely more important than large aperture, because the longer the focal length, the faster the safety shutter, and anti-shake can effectively improve the success rate of hand holding. However, the focal length of 2 10 is slightly shorter. We still use a lot of focal lengths of 200-300 when actually shooting the scenery.

And if you go to some very open places in the west, there are many opportunities to use 300-400. So if you are shooting scenery, it is recommended to go to 70-300, and the fever level can go to 80-400. Both lenses have second-generation anti-shake, which is much better than those without anti-shake. Needless to say, if the light is good, the anti-shake problem is not big.

The function of anti-shake is to provide some stability near the critical safe shutter speed. In this case, in fact, the light is not enough, and the protection provided by anti-shake may not be enough later. For an inappropriate example, there is no anti-shake, only 7 points can be taken. With anti-shake, you can continue to live until 7: 30, but after 8: 00, even if you have anti-shake, it may not be enough. In particular, the anti-shake of this kind of sub-factory lens can only last for a short time. If you want to keep the anti-shake for a longer hand-held shooting time, you have to look at the original lens, such as RF+R body. If you pat casually, you can also improve your sense of height; If you want to achieve better picture quality, get on a tripod honestly, or find something to support by the roadside. In addition, in the absence of anti-shake, you can try to practice the iron hand function. If the posture is in place, you may be able to achieve a more stable effect than others by using an anti-shake lens.

Because the telephoto lens has a narrow viewing angle, the slight shaking will be exaggerated. A large aperture can increase the amount of light entering, but it will also make the telephoto lens lose its portability. With the development of science and technology, the anti-shake and noise reduction technology of the fuselage is constantly upgraded, so the telephoto that can be taken out is a good telephoto, and the telephoto that suits you is the best telephoto. You can take a look at this150-600mmf5-6.3dddgdnosisports recommended by photographer Zhu below, which may bring you different inspiration.

After a period of use, Sigma150-600 mm F5-6.3 DGD NO SPORTS brought me an excellent experience. In addition to the three characteristics of uncompromising optical performance in the full zoom range, fast and high-precision autofocus and excellent quality of ultra-telephoto photography optimization, official website also left a deep impression in other aspects: in his hands. Feel the powerful anti-shake performance in the real shot. Seamless compatibility with Sony α 1 camera, support for bird's eye recognition, 30fps continuous shooting and other fuselage functions. Fully optimize the self-respect, without fear of holding 05 for a long time. Compared with other telephoto lenses, it is very cost-effective, and it is recommended to photographers who are looking for excellent telephoto lenses.

Anti-shake is of course important. If you always hold it in your hand, always shoot some places that are not too bright. It is life-saving to have anti-shake. But a large aperture is also important. You want a sharp knife to melt milk, right? Why does milk melt? Therefore, in this matter, there is no "how to choose", only "how do I choose". Your attention, your preferences and your actual situation can't be represented by others; The choice of others, even the choice of most people, may not have any reference significance for you. I'll bend my back here and say "anti-shake is more important", so just listen. Someone nearby said, "The aperture is bigger." Who should you trust? The key is who you write to; Look at the speaker. Who is fatter? Really, make up your mind. In other words, a better choice is the premise of changing the "limited budget". But 2.8 plus anti-shake, the weight is not light, which will cause your "big aperture is important or portable and lightweight."