Types of monk robes

Types and Origins of Monk Clothes Author: Sakyamuni Changyuan

Cassayas (five robes, seven robes, overcoats, dung sweeping robes, gold lace robes, and mandarin robes)

"Cassock" is a Sanskrit word. It was not until Ge Hong wrote the Ziyuan of the Jin Dynasty that it was changed to "Cassock". "Kasaya" is also called "Kasaya Ye" or "Galosa Trail", and its literal translation is "turbid, bad color, irregular color, red color" or "dyed".

"Cassock" is the "dharma robe" of monks and nuns. It is named after the "color" of the robe; so it can also be called "bad color robe" or "stained robe". And because of the sewing method of "cassock", the cloth must be cut into pieces and then sewn together; so it can also be called "chop clothes" or "cut clothes". According to Chapter 40 of the Four-part Rhythm and the Random Karma Shu of the Four-part Rhythm, the "cassock" was sewn by Venerable Ananda under the guidance of the Buddha to imitate the shape of the paddy fields. Setian grows grain to nourish the body and life. The field of dharma robes can nourish the dharma body, wisdom and life, and can be regarded as a field of blessings in the world; so it is also called "field of robes" and "field of blessings".

The format of "cassock" also has some reasons and meanings. First: India is located in the tropics, and many people wear white clothes. In order to differentiate between monks and laypeople, Buddhism stipulates that clothes should be dyed. Second: white common clothes are more beautiful; cassocks are of bad color and do not seek to be beautiful. Third: cutting and sewing can be sold as Dufangdian, and cannot be used for other purposes. Fourth: Contamination and miscellaneous things can eliminate the love of beauty. Fifth: Cutting and dyeing can stop thieves from seizing clothes.

Although "cassock" is named after "color", there are different opinions on its color.

The three colors are: cyan, black (or "mud color, soap color"), magnolia color (or "lancee color, stack color, red, Qiantuo color, uneven color"). These three colors are the Dharma colors of the "cassock".

There is an explanation for the so-called "bad colors": "green, black, and magnolia" are all "bad colors". Any color worn by a bhikkhu is considered to be "according to the Dharma and the law." There is another explanation: "green, black, and magnolia" must be mixed together to be considered a "bad color". There is another explanation: "Green" and other five colors must be mixed together to be considered a "bad color". ——As Master Fazang said in the Bodhisattva Precepts Book of the Brahma Gang Sutra: "The word 'cassock' means 'incorrect color'. It means that the five colors such as blue are mixed with each other and dyed into an improper color, which is called 'bad color'."

According to the eighth chapter of the Binima Sutra: "When the bhikkhus' clothes faded, the Buddha listened and dyed them with ten kinds of colors: one was clay, the other was the bark of the Tuoba tree, and the third was the bark of the Tuoba tree. , the fourth is non-grass, the fifth is qianda, the sixth is walnut root, the seventh is amole fruit, the eighth is fatuo bark, the ninth is sashaba bark, and the tenth is various mixed colors."

There is some elaboration on the color of the "cassock", but I can't give any more introduction at the moment. In short: the main purpose of dyeing Buddhist "cassocks" is to "destroy its good shape and distinguish it from monks and laymen." For example, it is said in the second volume of the Vatican Compendium Sutra: "No matter what country you are in, the clothing of a monk must be different from the common clothing of the people in his country."

The material used to tailor the "cassock" is called "clothing body" or "clothing material". Regarding this item, Buddhism also has some regulations. According to the fourteenth example of the good view law Vipassa. There are six kinds of materials: "Xumo, Gubei, Junaya, Qinboluo, Suana, and Poxingjia". The sixteenth chapter of the Ten Abodes of Viposha discusses six kinds of materials: "kalpa, kumo, kujiye, lin, red hemp, and white hemp". The twenty-eighth chapter of the Maha Sangha Vinaya cites the seventh material as "Chinpala, Kalpa, Shuma, Kushaya, Shena, Ma, and Mouti". According to the 39th Law of Four Parts, there are ten kinds of materials.

In addition, Chapter 16 of the Ten Abodes of Vipassana once mentioned the name of "dung sweeping clothes". This kind of clothes is said in the Agama Tibetan Sutra: It is used to pick up corpses in bags from the wilderness. Made from used pieces of cloth or other rags, washed and sewn together.

There are three main types of "cassocks". They are "five robes, seven robes and overcoats", collectively called "three robes". Now they are introduced below:

1. "Five Clothes": "Five Clothes" is Sanskrit "Anduo Hui", which is translated as "Chinese Clothes". This garment is made of five strips of fabric, one long and one short, with a total of ten strips.

2. "Qiyi": "Qiyi" is Sanskrit "Yutaro Monk", which is translated as "upper garment". This garment is made of seven strips of fabric, each strip is two long and one short, totaling 21 sections.

3. "Overcoat": "Overcoat" means "Sanghali" in Sanskrit, which is translated as "clothing when people gather" or "overcoat". This garment is divided into nine categories. ——Nine items for "lower and lower grade", eleven items for "lower and middle grade", and thirteen items for "lower and higher grade". All three pieces of clothing are two long and one short. There are fifteen items for "lower-middle quality", seventeen items for "middle-middle quality", and nineteen items for "upper-middle quality". All three pieces of clothing are three long and one short. There are twenty-one items for "upper and lower quality", twenty-three items for "higher and lower quality", and twenty-five items for "higher and higher quality". These three-grade clothes are all four long and one short. This ninth-grade coat has nine "lower-grade" coats, each with three compartments, totaling twenty-seven compartments. There are even twenty-five "high-grade" ones, each with four long and one short, totaling 125 intervals.

The uses of "three clothes": - "five clothes" are used when getting up and lying down. It is also said to be used at work, so it is also called "work clothes". However, in our country, monks and nuns all wear Chinese-style trousers and jackets when working, and do not use the "five robes". The "seven robes" are used when listening to sutras, listening to Dharma, chanting sutras and repenting, or attending public gatherings, so it is also called "the robe for entering the public".

"Coat" is used for preaching, debating, karma, or when meeting with the king's important officials.

The sewing method of "Three Clothes" is described in detail according to the 28th and 7th chapters of the Mahasangha Vinaya.

The original "cassock" was not equipped with a "clothes hook". Later, the Buddha's disciple Shariputra entered the house in white clothes, fearing that the wind would blow his cassock and fall to the ground. Because of this cause and condition, the Buddha listened to the monks and wore the cassock collar on his left shoulder and chest. Wear nails and hooks to fasten the cassock. Later it evolved into the "ruyi"-shaped "clothes hooks and rings" now.

The "three clothes" must be worn three times around the body. And depending on how hot or cold the weather is, you can wear one, two or three pieces. If it's too cold at night, you can also put a "coat" on your body.

In addition to the "three clothes", there is also a kind called "golden cassock" or "gold threaded robe"; this "cassock" is actually a kind of "overcoat". However, its material is precious and is made of gold strands. There are different opinions about the origin of this "gold-threaded garment". According to the Agama Sutra cited in the Zen Forest Xiangqi Note "Fu Zhangmen", the "gold threaded robe" is the "cassock" dedicated to the Buddha by the Buddha's aunt, Mrs. Mahaboampati. According to the Bodhisattva Necklace Sutra: "Golden Thread Clothes" are "cassocks" woven with 84,000 gold threads offered to the Buddha by gods and humans.

The various "cassocks" introduced above are all "dharma robes" worn by monks and nuns. In addition to those, there is also a "monastic garment" called "Manyi". This kind of "dharma robe" is made of a large piece of whole cloth. It is used by "novice monks" who have not yet taken ordination as monks, and by male and female laymen who have received "lay ordination". Because they have not received the "big ordination" of becoming a monk, they are not worthy of "being a blessed field in the world". Therefore, the "manyi" they wear cannot be tailored to "Tian Xiang". Moreover, novice monks are not familiar with the method of cutting and making clothes, so they only wear "undressed clothes".

Furthermore: there are certain rules for putting on clothes, taking off clothes (putting on and taking off cassocks), holding and folding, and at the same time, "gathas and mantras" must be recited. These rituals are explained in detail in Chapter 3 of the Buddhist Ritual Notes (Ritual Ceremony of Setting Up Clothing and Equipment). No more description here.

All the above mentioned are Fu Tong rules about "cassock". After Buddhism came to the east, due to the shift of space and the changes of time, the original image of "cassock" has been somewhat damaged! Today's "cassock": the format has been reduced, and the material has become more and more flashy; when worn, it can only be wrapped around the body and draped over the shoulders.

Finally, I need to remind everyone of the merits of "cassock". ——According to the Jie Tan Sutra: "The five robes represent an end to greed and purify the body's karma. The seven robes represent an end to anger and purify the karma of the mouth. The large robe represents the appearance of the field, more length and less, which represents the increase in the sage and the decrease in the ordinary. Together, it represents the cessation of delusion. Purifying mind karma." According to the Bei Hua Sutra: "When the Buddha makes a vow to become a Buddha in front of the Treasure Buddha, his cassock has five merits: one is to enter into my Dharma, commit serious wrong views, etc.; The second is: if gods, dragons, human beings and ghosts can respect this cassock even a little, they will be able to obtain the cassock without retreating. The third is: "If there are ghosts, gods and people who have even four inches of cassock, they will have enough food and drink." . Fourth: If sentient beings are in conflict with each other, think of the power of the cassock and seek compassion. Fifth: If you hold on to a small amount of this (cassock) and respect it respectfully, you will always be able to defeat him." (Excerpted from Shi's Notes)

According to the Mahaparinirvana Sutra: "When the dragon gets the cassock, each one wears a small amount of it." If you divide it, you will avoid the trouble of the golden-winged bird." The Ten Wheels of Ksitigarbha Sutra says: "There was a criminal who was sentenced to be bound and abandoned in the wilderness. The cassock on the top of the head pointed out, so as to avoid troubles caused by ghosts and ghosts." Another scripture says: "There was a macaque, while the monk was not around, playing with the cassock. He jumped for joy, lost his footing and fell into a valley, and was destined to be reborn in heaven. In the last ninety kalpas, the worldly path will be achieved." The Agama Sutra says: "A worn-out cassock, unfit for replacement, is left hanging in the wilderness and in the mountains and forests; if there is anyone who sees it, people, animals, birds, and beasts will be able to sow blessings and good deeds."

"Cassock" is a symbol of Buddhism and an expression of saints. How can its merits and virtues be comparable to those of ordinary people? No wonder Emperor Shunzhi of the Qing Dynasty praised it and said: "Gold and white jade are not precious, but the cassock is the most difficult to wear." !

Skills

"Sideline" is also one of the uniforms formulated by the Buddha. Said: Its Sanskrit name is "Nishidana". In relevant classics, "Yiyi translation" has translated it as "sitting utensil" or "bedding utensil", while others have translated it as "dressing utensil" or "sitting clothing". ". There are also those called "tools" for short.

The measurement of "tools", according to the records of Zen Forest Xiangqi: When encountering a tall person, it is also allowed to consider enlarging the size to the four sides.

The color of the "tool" needs to be dyed in the same bad color as the cassock. The so-called "bad color", that is, the "dyed color", should be made of old cloth to destroy it.

The sewing method of "gui" is to sew two layers of fabric together and add strips of cloth on the four sides. The editor) said: The purpose of sticking cloth on the four sides is to destroy its beauty.

What is the purpose of the "tool"? Lawyer Daoxuan of the Tang Dynasty believed that the "tool" was used by monks to worship. Utensils. Master Yijing said: "Utensils" are used for sitting and lying, and are not suitable for worshiping Buddha. ——The two ancient figures have their own opinions: "Utensils." "It is also a tool that monks must carry with them. When using it, they should unfold it and put it away by themselves, and should not give it to others. When carrying it, fold it and place it under the cassock of your left arm, or put it in your pocket.

For example, the ceremonial gestures of "holding, displaying, and lifting utensils" are difficult to express using words. It is best for someone to "demonstrate" the gestures.

The Illustrated Book of Ordination Altar compiled by Lawyer Daoxuan once said: "The altar of nuns is like a pagoda with a foundation. When a bhikkhu receives ordination, the body is a pagoda with five parts of the dharma body." If you realize it from this point of view, "tool" also has a sacred meaning!

　　　　　　Haiqing

"Haiqing" is one of the main costumes of the monks in our country. Its style: wide waist, wide sleeves, round neck and square lapel, which is much larger than other clothes. Therefore, it is usually called "big robe".

The term "Haiqing" is explained in the etymology: "In Wuzhong, people with wide sleeves on clothes are called 'Haiqing'. According to Li Bai's poem: 'The wide sleeves dance gracefully, like a sea of ??birds. "Come from the east". The dance of wide sleeves is like the sea of ????dongqing. Today it is also called "Haiqing". According to Master Xingyun's "Silent Song" explanation: "Haiqing is originally the name of a bird that is an eagle. It is handsome and elegant and often flies on the seaside in Liaodong. Its shape is similar to the big sleeves of a shirt. Therefore, the name of the bird Haiqing is borrowed from Let’s use it as the name of the robe.”

The clothing style of "Haiqing" was originally derived from the clothing style of the Han and Tang Dynasties in my country. In the past, both monks and laymen wore it. However, due to the evolution of world trends and changes in lifestyles, the secular public has long since switched to wearing "full clothes", "suits", and even colorful "fashion clothes".

Buddhism respects the ancient system, and "monastics" live a relatively conservative life. At the same time, in order to clean up the appearance and solemn moral conduct, although "Haiqing" is not a "monastic robe", it can still be worn to this day.

Although "Haiqing" was born out of Hanfu, it still has some unique features. The collar of "Haiqing" is made of three layers of cloth sewn over and overlapping; this is called "Three Treasures Collar". In the front and middle section of the collar, there are fifty-three lines of blue lines; this is called "The Fifty-Three Ginseng of the Good Fortune Boy". These remarks are actually based on the experience of others. In fact, it is nothing more than to enhance the durability of the collar. In addition, the cuffs of the common robe are open, but the cuffs of the "Haiqing" are sewn together. This is also the difference between monks' robes and lay robes.

"Haiqing" stitching cuffs is also a kind of Fu Shuo. It is said: "The concubine of Emperor Wu of Liang, Xi, did not believe in Buddhism and often tried to use methods to frame monks and nuns. Once she ordered the palace servants to make some pork buns and invited Zen Master Baozhi and his disciples to fast, in order to cause the monks to violate the precepts and humiliate them. Buddhism. If the monks did not eat at that time, it would be a crime against the Queen's will. Zen Master Baozhi was an enlightened monk and had already foreseen his intention, so he ordered his disciples to sew up the "Haiqing" sleeves first. The steamed buns were hidden in the sleeve. When entering the palace for lunch, he put the steamed buns into the empty sleeve with one hand and took out the steamed buns to eat. This way he escaped Xi's trick." ——Whether this kind of Fu said is true still needs some verification.

Colors such as "sea blue" have always been mainly blue and black. Only a few elders with high status - such as "abbot, chief, mage..." and the like, wear tawny "Haiqing".

Among the monks in our country, apart from the "cassock", the "Haiqing" is considered the most respected monk's robe. Wearing "Haiqing" is mostly done on important occasions such as "reciting rituals, listening to scriptures, meeting guests, discussing affairs", and meeting elders.

Because "Haiqing" is large in size and uses too much cloth; it is loose and swinging, making movement inconvenient, and it is not "Buddhist"; so in recent times, some people have proposed reforms. In the Republic of China, Master Taixu and others once advocated new styles of monk attire. However, there are also some people who hold opposite opinions. It is believed that Fu Tong's style of clothing is solemn and solemn and should not be lightly reformed. Therefore, in the case of "different people have different opinions", there is no conclusion yet.

Its style is made by combining the "Three Treasures Collar" and the waist and lapel sleeves of "Cheongsam". Buttons on the right edge of the armpit. The colors of the "long gown" include black, gray, and brown. The length of the "long gown": if it reaches the instep, it is called a "long gown". Those that are only longer than the knee are called "ershan". Those that are less than knee-length are called "three shirts".

The "long gown" is the outer clothing of monks and nuns. It was the most popular in central and southern China in the past. "Two shirts" are usually worn in temples. "Three shirts" are worn at work. In the past 40 years, the "long shirt" has been the most popular in Taiwan's Buddhist community. As for "two shirts" and "three shirts", they have long disappeared.

　　　　　Arhat Coat

Since the Republic of China, our country’s folk clothing styles have gradually become simpler and more practical. Only the clothing of the monks and nuns is still so loose and bulky, making it difficult to move. Therefore, some monks wanted to reform it. Master Taixu also designed a new style of long clothes and shorts. The long coat he designed was just knee-length. The collar is sewn with two layers of fabric. The placket is opened in the middle of the chest, and buttons are nailed to the edge of the placket. This kind of long coat was originally called "Taixu coat" because it was advocated by Master Taixu. However, in recent years, it has been renamed "Arhat Gown" everywhere.

The "Arhat coat" saves fabric and is more convenient to move around. However, its style is not as solemn and elegant as the long gown with a partial lapel. Therefore, there are still only a few people who wear it when going out.

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"Short shirt trousers": short clothes on the upper body and fat and long trousers on the lower body. This kind of clothing is the inner layer of clothing for monks and nuns in my country. It is worn under the "long gown". It can also be worn as "pajama pants".

The length of the "shirt" is just beyond the hips. Its cutting style is exactly the same as the upper body of the double-breasted "Arhat gown"; in the past, it was a side-breasted style. "Pants" were originally our country's ancient folk trousers, but they were fatter and longer. When wearing it, the trousers below the knees must be included in the monk socks.

　　　　　Monk Shoes

Because India is located in the tropics, most people think that monks and nuns did not wear shoes during the time when Sakyamuni Buddha lived. In fact, this is not the case. According to the Buddhist scriptures listed under the "Xianlin Xiangqi" volume, "If there is a donor, the cow will be sold dead and slaughtered, and the skin will be bought and made into leather clothing. It is allowed to be used." According to Shimengui, Jingyi said: "In the country of Tianzhu, the land is very hot and humid. We use leather as clothing and we are ordered to wear it. If we see the Supreme Lord, we will immediately take off our clothes." Based on these researches, we can know that Buddhist monks and nuns in ancient India were allowed to wear Of shoes.

Our country belongs to a warm and cold area. In order to keep out the cold, people of course need to wear shoes. Regarding the use of shoes. There have been some regulations in ancient books such as Daily Standards, Sifenluxingchao, Imperial Orders, and Zutingshiyuan.

There are roughly three types of shoes worn by monks and nuns in my country: one is "mang shoes", which are woven from grass, so they are also called "straw shoes". In the past, monks who lived in the countryside or in the mountains and forests of mainland China usually wore this kind of shoes. The second type is "Arhat shoes", which are made of cloth. The upper part of this kind of shoe, the tip, is made of three strips of cloth arranged and sewn together, and the upper is sewn with some square holes, which is similar to the style of "mang shoes". Nowadays, all monks wear these shoes. It is said that this kind of shoes has the meaning of teaching people to see through everything. The third type is "monk shoes", which are also made of cloth. This kind of shoe has no holes in the whole body, just sew a hard beam on the front end of the shoe. The style of these "monk shoes" is no different from the secular "casual shoes".

"Arhat shoes" and "monk shoes" are actually "monk shoes". The colors of "monk shoes" include black, gray, yellow, and brown. The two colors of yellow and brown are customarily regarded as more noble by people.

Monks and nuns in our country, in addition to "monk shoes", also wear long "monk socks". The so-called "monk socks" are actually our country's ancient costume socks; today some people call them "Arhat socks". The color of "Arhat socks" is customarily mainly gray. Wearing "Arhat Socks" can not only keep out the cold in winter and protect against insects and snakes in summer; it can also make people look solemn and majestic.

Speaking of the system of "monk socks", it also has its origin. The Rhythm of Four Parts says: "The cold listens to the socks." Shi Yao Lan said: "Chao Yun: Socks are also clothes." He also said: "The explanation of the name goes: socks, at the end; at the end of the feet." Ma Jin, a man of the Five Dynasties, wrote annotations on Chinese ancient and modern times: "In the third generation and Zhou Dynasty, people wore 'horn socks' tied with a belt around their ankles.

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