I want to know the development history and characteristics of "eighteen inlaid rollers"! ! ! ! I'm in a hurry. Thank you.

roll-in clothes are made of various kinds of lace on shirts, coats, skirts and other clothes. In the early Qing dynasty, embroidery was only inserted at the hem and sleeve ends, and the color tended to be plain and clean. During the reign of Xianfeng and Tongzhi, the inlaying roll was complicated, from three inlays, three rolls, five inlays and five rolls to eighteen inlays, including peony bands, gold and white devils, embroidery between plates and gold, etc. Until the last years of Guangxu, rolling decoration technology was still popular. A dress is only six points of silk, while the inlay is three or four out of ten. Of course, from the degree of simplicity of rolling lace, we can also see its social status and family situation. The appearance of roller-inlaid clothing reflects the progress of silk weaving, dyeing and embroidery technology at that time. Especially since the mid-Qing Dynasty, the lace handicraft industry has developed. After the shirts and skirts are made, the finished products can be purchased and tied. Because it is time-saving and labor-saving, it is beautiful and luxurious, which leads to the long-lasting trend of inlay and is deeply loved by women.

During the reign of Xianfeng and Tongzhi, women's dresses in Kyoto had more frills, which was called "eighteen inlays". In the early Qing dynasty, Suzhou women advocated "pleated skirts", some of which had as many as 3 pleats; At that time, the "horse-face skirt", also known as the "moon dress", had five colors in each pleat, and the edging, pleating and coloring all reflected a strong sense of exterior decoration, which had nothing to do with the practical function of clothing.

The clothing style of China in the Qing Dynasty in the 18th century is similar to Rococo's hobby of complexity, slimness and luxury, but more of it is too delicate. From the data, we can see that the mainstream Manchu clothing, with three layers inside, three layers outside, shawl collar, cloud shoulder, supplementary clothing, royal clothing, mandarin jacket and waistcoat, has a variety of colors and rich layers. In addition, the beads around the neck, the flowers on the crown, the fan bags around the waist, the sachets and so on are almost full of dazzling ornaments. In addition, in terms of headdress, the unprecedented "big wing pulling" heightens the human body and seems to have the same effect as the West. These are not only due to the living habits of the original nomadic people, but also related to the style of Rococo from the west. In the history of our country, Manchu women in the Qing Dynasty were more slender and slender than those in previous dynasties. This is not because Manchu women are all tall, but because of the "big wings" hairstyle, flowerpot bottom flag shoes and clothing shape. The establishment of China's clothing style in Qing Dynasty is inseparable from exquisite clothing patterns, especially cheongsam and coat. It is very particular that the neckline, front, hem, cuffs are decorated with tapestries or lace colored teeth. The more beautiful, the more elegant. Some have as many as eighteen channels, which are called "eighteen inlays" in the city. Because of the decoration, it is almost impossible to see its original texture. The extremely fine stamens and grass roots in Rococo's patterns, and the patterns with strict and regular composition are all reproduced in China's clothing patterns. The endless pursuit of complexity, exquisite rules and exquisiteness eventually led to the extreme of the palace service system, which was piled up, complicated, lengthy and monotonous. In a word, the clothing styles in the Qing Dynasty, which pursue complexity and exquisiteness as the top grade, are consistent with the embodiment of the western Rococo style in clothing. The costumes of the Qing Dynasty, in itself, combined the outstanding achievements of the costumes of past dynasties, and left us a pearl of the imperial kingdom of costumes-"cheongsam". From this point of view, it can be said that it is a great contribution. As for the formation of complicated costume styles, it depends to a great extent on many factors other than art, so we should look at them again with a more cautious attitude.

from Xianfeng and Tongzhi of Daoguang to the middle of Guangxu, the use of lace in women's clothing was very popular, with many and wide inlay rolls, from two inlay rolls to five inlay rolls. "In the same room with salt, there are many rolling strips of women's clothes in the capital, and the number is eighteen inlaid." People described women's dresses at that time as "devil railings (that is, lace) all over the body."

Snow-gray satin embroidered daffodil gold Shou Ziwen's clothes

Guangxu in Qing Dynasty, with a body length of 145cm, two sleeves of 134cm and a hem width of 132cm, was collected in the Qing Palace.

this dress is made of silk, with a round neck, a large waist and a right slit, and flat and wide sleeves are in a multi-layer shape, and the hem is left and right to the armpit moire. On the snow-gray satin floor, the patterns of narcissus and golden ball longevity are embroidered by the embroidery methods such as plain needle winding and Ping Jin needle covering. The composition is regular and symmetrical, the pigment is clean and elegant, and the embroidery worker is delicate and delicate. The collar sleeve is inlaid with many tapestries or embroidered or woven edges, and the collar is decorated with a round button with copper and gold plating. Lined with moon white pigment in spinning silk. The intricate and exaggerated inlays set off the elegance and luxury of this dress.

Funeral clothes are one of the common casual clothes worn by empresses in Qing Dynasty. They are usually worn outside shirts and casual gowns, and have a good decorative effect.

Snow-gray satin embroidered daffodil gold Shou Ziwen's clothes

Guangxu in Qing Dynasty, with a body length of 145cm, two sleeves of 134cm and a hem width of 132cm, was collected in the Qing Palace.

this dress is made of silk, with a round neck, a large waist and a right slit, and flat and wide sleeves are in a multi-layer shape, and the hem is left and right to the armpit moire. On the snow-gray satin floor, the patterns of narcissus and golden ball longevity are embroidered by the embroidery methods such as plain needle winding and Ping Jin needle covering. The composition is regular and symmetrical, the pigment is clean and elegant, and the embroidery worker is delicate and delicate. The collar sleeve is inlaid with many tapestries or embroidered or woven edges, and the collar is decorated with a round button with copper and gold plating. Lined with moon white pigment in spinning silk. The intricate and exaggerated inlays set off the elegance and luxury of this dress.

Funeral clothes are one of the common casual clothes worn by empresses in Qing Dynasty. They are usually worn outside shirts and casual gowns, and have a good decorative effect.

Guangxu in Qing dynasty, with a body length of 142 cm, two sleeves of 136 cm and a hem of 122 cm.

this dress is made of silk, round neck, with a big belly and a right slit. It is embroidered in a multi-layer shape, and the left and right sides are welted to the moire under the armpit. The inner lining of the garment is the moon pigment aromatic silk. The collar sleeve skirt is inlaid with multi-rolled or embroidered or woven floral tapestry. The lapel is decorated with copper, gold and plain round buttons, one white jade and four cicada buttons. This garment is decorated with two or three colors of halo, and various embroidery stitches, such as plain stitch, Ping Jin seed-beating and so on, are used to embroider and fold branches of chrysanthemum patterns on lake satin ground. The composition is elegant and natural, and the colors are simple and harmonious. The embroiderer accurately grasps the shape and characteristics of chrysanthemum, and vividly shows the contour of its veins and the curl change of petals.

The picture can't be copied. You can go and have a look. It's beautiful, and oh, Huo Siyan in The Last Gege. This one has at least 6 inlays.