[Animation Photography for Help] I want to learn common sense and photography skills about animation photography.

Introduction to photography technology I believe many friends like to take pictures, but many people only use fool blocks. It is ok to take some photos of this trip, but it is not good to take any better photos.

Why?

Because the course of photography technology is so boring that people can't stand it and don't want to learn it.

I want to write something in popular language, starting from the actual needs of novices and not-so-novices.

Please note: I interpret it with my own understanding, so some concepts will be different from professional statements. Old birds, don't be serious ~

We don't look at the means, only at the curative effect ~ ~ ~

I solemnly "throw myself at you", even if your photography knowledge is zero, I can take you astray (cow! There should be no point of return.

I am also a "meat fan". I will try to finish learning the main knowledge points before the May Day Golden Week, so that my friends can practice immediately on the trip. However, I declare that what I want to talk about is mainly the "skill" of photography, and to take good photos requires both "skill" and "art"

About focal length

Before talking about the camera, let's talk about the focal length, which is the most important concept in photography. Whether you use a fool machine or a professional machine, you must master it!

We don't need to know anything about millimeters and centimeters, just know that lenses are divided into wide-angle lenses, standard lenses and telephoto lenses.

The lens marked with 50mm is a standard lens, or BT for short. A lens with a value less than 50mm is a wide-angle lens. Those larger than 50mm are telephoto lenses.

Deformation of wide-angle lens

When using wide-angle lenses, especially ultra-wide-angle lenses below 20mm, you must pay attention to deformation when composing. The closer to the edge of the picture, the more serious the deformation. Try different angles, minimize distortion (it is impossible to avoid it completely), and even put the most important subject in the middle of the picture. I really can't. I can only shoot it back first and correct the deformation with PS.

On medium focal length and telephoto.

Generally speaking, the focal length between 60- 100mm is the medium focal length, and the focal length above 100mm is the telephoto. So how much is the mm chest circumference suitable?

85mm is the best, and this focal length has the smallest deformation of human facial features. The focal length between 85- 100 mm is most suitable for taking busts, and 100- 135mm is most suitable for taking headshots. If it is greater than 135 mm, it is not suitable for taking portraits. At this time, the face will be flat. The focal length above 200mm is suitable for shooting sports competitions and ecological films, such as animals, birds and other inaccessible targets.

The professional concept of focal length is not important for photography. If a friend still doesn't understand, you can ignore it. Just remember that 50mm is the visual angle of the human eye, which is the standard; If the angle is less than 50, a wider range of scenes can be taken in the lens, but the scene becomes smaller; Above 50 is telephoto, which can shoot the distant scenery bigger, but the range is narrow.

What is the focal length of a typical DC?

We often only know that the camera is X zoom, which is not enough!

I introduced the standard universal focal length before, which is the focal length of film camera. The focal length printed on the DC lens has no reference value. You have to convert it into a standard focal length to know how wide and far this camera can shoot, and to know when to take pictures without pasting!

So be sure to find out the actual focal length of your camera.

How to convert? Cow! If I tell you how to convert, what's the difference between my post and those professional articles?

then what

Very simple, just buy a camera and ask the boss!

If he can't tell the actual focal length of this camera, you can ask him to go home and farm!

If you already have a DC at hand, read the manual and see how many millimeters the focal length of this camera is "equivalent to the focal length of a 35 mm camera".

If you don't even have the instructions at hand, look them up online!

When you know that the zoom range of your camera is from 100 mm to 100 mm, you should remember at least two numbers:

How many mm is the first wide-angle end? Such as 28mm

The second is, how many times does the camera zoom? Such as 5x zoom.

Then, the zoom range of this camera is 28-140mm (28× 5 =140).

Now, you can always know how many millimeters you need and how many times you should enlarge them.

Shooting focal length = focal length of wide-angle end × zoom multiple.

What role does exposure compensation play?

When you use P file, the exposure given by the camera is what you want most of the time. However, sometimes, if you need a brighter picture than the camera gives you, you just need to add a little compensation. Sometimes, if you need a darker picture than the camera gives you, just subtract a little compensation.

How to add and subtract compensation? Read the instructions!

When should we increase or decrease compensation?

Please log on to Google, search for the words "white plus black minus", and then "enter"! You will see the detailed explanation, so I won't say more, lest everyone make a mistake.

About digital zoom and sensitivity (ISO)

Digital zoom is a super invincible function of changing-state-down-stream-shameless. Almost all DC's are advertising how many times it has digital zoom, which completely misleads novice consumers. First, the picture quality taken by any digital zoom camera is very poor; Second, even if you really need to pull the scene so close, you can achieve the effect of digital zoom shooting with PS, or even better; Third, during normal optical zoom, digital zoom may be accidentally misused and not noticed when shooting. Going home to see that terrible picture is irreparable.

When you buy a digital camera, the first thing to do is to enter the settings menu and turn off the digital zoom! ! !

About sensitivity

General DC sensitivity ranges from 50 to 800.

The second thing to buy back a digital camera is to cancel the "automatic ISO" and set the sensitivity value to the lowest. The lower the ISO, the better the image quality. The higher the ISO, the less afraid of shaking hands when shooting, but the thicker the lines. It is best not to use more than 100. If the photos taken with 100 are still blurred, you'd better use a tripod. If you don't have a tripod, you can use 200, but it takes a while to go home to PS, and the effect is limited. Only when shooting is necessary and the image quality is not important, use ISO above 200.

About pixels

Now the pixels of small DC are getting higher and higher. How much is enough? Is the higher the better?

Although the higher the pixel, the bigger the picture, but the small DC photoreceptor is too bad. With the same photoreceptor area, the higher the pixel, the worse the image quality. Although the difference is not so obvious, at least it shows that there is no need to spend more money in pursuit of high pixels.

How many pixels is enough? 4 million-6 million is enough. The smaller the DC, the less you can buy a high pixel.

On the background ambiguity ability of DC

Many friends who use DC want to take portraits with blurred backgrounds, but I suggest DC users give up this idea.

Note: The larger the photoreceptor, the larger the aperture and the longer the focal length, the closer the subject is to the lens, and the farther the background is from the subject, the stronger the blur ability.

As I said, except Sony R 1, all DC photoreceptors are very small. So the first condition is gone, the first condition can't be met, and the second condition can't play much role, so we have to rely on the third, fourth and fifth.

Except macro shooting, those with a focal length less than 200mm can hardly be blurred, and those with a focal length greater than 200mm can only be blurred when taking large photos. When shooting a bust, the background is empty but not soft, and the effect is still different from that of a camera with a large photoreceptor.

Please look at this telephoto DC shot. The aperture is F2.8, the focal length is 420 mm, and the background is far from the main body, which barely blurs the background. Although the background is barely blurred, there is not much room to explain the environment because of the narrow image field of telephoto lens.

Look at this film machine, the aperture is also f2.8, but the film area is several times that of DC photoreceptor. Therefore, with a focal length of only 50mm, the background can be blurred, even the nearby background can be blurred, and there is room for explaining the environment while blurring the background. Therefore, when you take photos with DC, almost all photos are clear unless you use a large zoom lens. But this is also beneficial, that is, when the focus is not accurate, the subject will not be seriously blurred. Therefore, there is no perfect camera in the world, and we should foster strengths and avoid weaknesses.

Since the defects of DC are hard to blur, let's take advantage of this feature and take more comprehensive and clear photos. You know, not every situation should blur the background. Many times it is necessary to use background to illustrate the scene environment. Masters, especially western masters, rarely blur the background ~

They become masters because they are good at using the background to set off the atmosphere and highlight the subject, rather than being vague. If you really want to play blur, just turn on the macro mode and shoot something small. Because the shooting target is very close to the lens, it is often only 1 to a few centimeters. As long as it is in focus smoothly, the background will be blurred.

Look at this little DC photo.

If you must play with real background blur, please see the next part of SLR.

Q: Macro MF is difficult to control. I have been practicing macro recently, because there is no tripod or other things that can be fixed, so I can only hold it. Until today, I don't plan to continue, I'm suffocating, and the atmosphere is afraid to come out, for fear of paste ~

How to make good use of MF? Although it's smart, I don't think it's clear enough from the small screen, so it's hard to say ~

Answer: just use AF. Small DC framing is not as intuitive as SLR, and MF effect is very poor. You are not sure whether the focus is accurate, or manually select the focus with AF. For example, if your camera has five focus points, when you compose a composition, you choose which focus point is closest to the subject, then frame the subject with the focus point and press half the shutter. If your focal length is within the range allowed by the camera, you will see that the subject becomes clear, the background becomes blurred, and the focus indicator appears, so you can shoot. If you can't focus for a long time, move the camera back appropriately until it is in focus, and press the shutter if it is accurate.

In addition, if you don't use a tripod, even if the focus is accurate, even if the light is good, there is still a great chance of paste. Because your lens is too close to the subject, a little movement will have a great impact, which is different from taking a landscape!

Imagine that a person flicking his finger five meters away from you has the same visual effect as flicking his finger under your nose.

If you don't use a tripod, you can't guarantee a good focusing effect ~

Unless you are a robot, you can't do anything ~ ~ ~

As I said before, if you don't have a tripod, you should take more pictures at a time. With luck, one or two can barely work.

SLR article

After using DC for a while, your understanding of photography has improved, and you are gradually dissatisfied with DC. At this time, an old bird may suggest that you change your SLR. So, what's the difference between SLR and DC? What tasks can it accomplish that DC can't?

You need or can use a SLR in the following situations:

First, you need to develop bigger photos;

Second, you want to improve the success rate of freehand shooting;

Third, you need higher picture quality;

Fourth, you want to strengthen the control of the shooting effect, such as controlling the degree of background blur;

Fifth, you like to take snapshots and want faster shutter response;

Sixth, you hate frequent charging;

7. Do you mind adding about 200-1000g of luggage?

Eight, this is the most important thing. ....

Just to attract the attention of MM worship!

Get a small machine MM ignores you ~

About digital SLR DSLR

What is a SLR? I won't give a professional explanation. In layman's terms, you just need to remember that a SLR is a camera that can change lenses and "snap" when shooting. There is little difference between digital SLR DSLR and film SLR FSLR, except that it does not need film and can be played back at any time.

When friends from DC just use DSLR, they often feel unaccustomed to taking pictures without LCD screen. But once you get used to it, you will feel uncomfortable with LCD framing.

DSLR can use most lenses of FSLR, but the focal length of most DSLR lenses is different from the standard focal length. Generally speaking, the focal length marked on the lens should be multiplied by 1.5 (Canon's camera is multiplied by 1.6), which is the actual standard focal length on the DSLR. For example, 100-300mm lens is installed on DSLR of Nikon and Pentax, and the actual focal length is 150-450mm. If installed on a Canon DSLR, the actual focal length is 160-480mm. It can be seen that when the SLR lens is mounted on the DSLR, the focal length becomes longer.

Advantages of digital SLR

Compared with DC, the biggest advantage of digital SLR is that it can change lenses, and secondly, the photoreceptor is much larger than DC.

The advantages of large photoreceptors are:

First, it is easier to blur the background;

Second, the picture quality is more delicate;

Third, the success rate of freehand shooting is higher (not easy to blur).

Although it is much larger than DC's, most digital SLR's photoreceptors are still smaller than film. Therefore, the lens of the film machine is mounted on the digital SLR, and the imaging range is also reduced.

Specifically, the focal length of the lens is × 1.5 (for Canon cameras, × 1.6).

For example, Nikon's digital SLR is equipped with a 50mm pan/tilt, and the actual focal length becomes 75 mm

Installed on Canon digital SLR, the actual focal length became 80 mm ..

In this way, the use of some lenses has changed. Friends who like wide angles are the most depressed. Obviously, the wide-angle lens has become a small wide angle.

In this way, they will spend a lot of money to buy a super wide-angle lens, so that they can barely use a wide angle; Do you like super wide angle? I had to spend more money to buy a super wide-angle lens specially made for digital SLR.

But the convenience of digital SLR is beyond doubt. Various manufacturers have introduced a wide-angle digital head with digital SLR, which can basically meet all shooting needs.

Recommend several digital SLR models suitable for beginners:

Nikon:

D50, six million pixels. D70S, 6 million pixels, look and feel more professional than D50, everything else is similar.

Canon:

350D, 800 million pixels. 30D, 8 million pixels, the picture quality is similar to 350D, but the function and workmanship are much stronger.

In contrast, Canon's image quality is more delicate than Nikon's, but Nikon's body looks more professional and the lens is more affordable than Canon's. I'm not familiar with other manufacturers, so I won't say much. Pentax, Ke Mei and Olympus also have good digital SLR.

Film SLR

If you want to use a cheap and good standard wide-angle lens, then you'd better use a film SLR, because the focal length of the lens will not change when it is mounted on the film SLR.

To use a film SLR, you must meet the following conditions.

First of all, you should have a lot of free time. Film must be developed, photographed, scanned, PS corrected, scratched and so on, which is very troublesome. If you like convenience, don't play with film;

Second, you must live in a big city, at least a provincial capital city. There are few professional washing shops in small places, and the washing effect is difficult to guarantee;

Third, you should have a certain photographic skills, and you can be sure that after pressing the shutter, the final effect will be similar to your own estimation.

With the film machine, we must eliminate two psychological obstacles:

First, the operation of the film machine is complicated, and you can't see the effect when you shoot it.

In fact, most film SLR are highly automated. Just know the effect you want, set one or two parameters slightly, and pick up the camera. It's simple. As long as it is not a scene with particularly complicated lighting, the final effect is not a big problem. The more professional cameras and lenses, the higher the success rate. So, a photographer with a big black guy is nothing. As long as you get rid of the psychological barrier and pick up the camera, you can also shoot.

Second, using film costs money.

See if you can save money without spending money. A film costs about ten yuan and Dan Chong five yuan, so the cost of every thirty-six photos is 15 yuan. The film SLR body of the same grade is much cheaper than the digital SLR. As long as you shoot the film carefully and don't press the shutter casually, a digital SLR may not use five or six years of film.

Can a digital SLR last for five or six years? It was eliminated in two or three years, but the film SLR has been used for decades, and the lens has not been counted.

To get a viewing angle of 50mm and an aperture of f 1.4 on the film machine, you only need to spend more than 2,000 yuan, and the second-hand one only needs 1000 yuan. To get the same angle of view and aperture on a digital SLR, you have to spend more than 10 thousand yuan Second-hand also costs eight or nine thousand yuan! How much film can I buy at this price difference?

In my opinion, the biggest advantage of film SLR is that you can buy second-hand products with confidence. Because the electronic system of the film machine is relatively simple, the probability of failure is relatively small. Some film machines are even fully mechanical and do not need electricity. These cameras can be purchased with confidence as long as there is no problem in operation when purchasing. Even if it's broken when you buy it home, just find a small shop to repair it. The cost is very low.

Digital SLR is different. Its circuit is too complicated and the photoreceptor is expensive. If the original owner doesn't use it with such care, it will have a great impact on imaging. Once the digital SLR goes wrong, the maintenance cost is several thousand yuan (most of the second-hand ones have passed the warranty period).

So I think the film camera must be bought second-hand, at least one-third cheaper than the new camera, or even more than half cheaper, and it has no effect on the use. There is also a digital SLR, try to buy a new one (you see, it costs a lot of money for convenience). As for the lens, try to buy it second-hand, as long as there are no scratches and less dust, you can take it off. Some small gray particles have no effect on imaging, and the price is much cheaper than the new one.

To buy second-hand equipment, you can go to websites such as Wuji and Hummingbird, or go to a large second-hand market (friends in big cities are much luckier because the market is bigger and there are more choices). Don't think that the price of second-hand vendors must be higher than that of online sellers. As long as you can bargain, you can still buy cheap and satisfactory second-hand goods. Maybe when you've had enough fun, you can resell it without losing a penny, hehe.

But if you buy new equipment, you may lose some money by selling it.

What kind of lens do you need?

Generally speaking, a lens with a large aperture is expensive, expensive at both ends (wide angle and telephoto) and cheap in the middle.

The most cost-effective lens is the 50mm pan/tilt. Because under the standard focal length of 50mm, it is easiest to make a large aperture.

It embodies the perfect combination of maximum aperture and lowest price. So I think SLR users, especially film SLR users, must have a 50mm fixed focus, because you always need a large aperture. The price of a F 1.4 header is in the early 2000 s, and the second-hand price is 1000 yuan. Doesn't that sound cheap?

Learn about other lenses with the same large aperture.

The 35mm lens and 28mm lens of F 1.4 cost more than 10,000 yuan! A telephoto lens can't achieve the large aperture of F 1.4 at all, and it is very expensive, up to tens of thousands of yuan!

If you buy the meter head of F 1.8, the aperture is only half a level smaller than that of 1.4, and the new product will cost several hundred dollars!

So you say, is the meter very affordable?

For color lovers who like outdoor travel, especially digital SLR users, I suggest buying a zoom lens instead of just one lens.

Although the fixed-focus lens has higher image quality and larger aperture, it is very inconvenient to change the head in the wild. Especially when it is windy, changing the head once will do great harm to the photoreceptor. Don't be fooled by those rich upstarts. They often despise the cheap zoom lens with small aperture, saying that it is "cheap to buy dead". In fact, the most important factor that determines the picture quality is the purity of light and air, and the quality of the lens is the second.

Why do many people in western countries use disposable fool cameras?

Can't people afford a good camera? Because the sky is blue enough! The air is clean enough! Even a stupid camera can make beautiful movies.

Most of the tourist attractions have good air quality. If you put some effort into using light, you don't need to pursue high-quality lenses at all.

You have a lot of professional equipment, and you don't even have the strength to walk. You still have to get a P. Most of the fierce donkeys I saw in Tibet only used a small machine.

Although the master used good equipment, others used bad equipment to make good films.

Far away ~

For travelers who use film SLR,

Nikon's, I suggest that the F80 fuselage add a 24- 120VR lens.

Canon, it is recommended to add 28- 135 IS lens to EOS30.

Both lenses cover wide-angle to medium telephoto, and also have anti-shake function, which improves the success rate of hand-held shooting. The second-hand prices of these two cameras are more than 4000 yuan, which are very affordable and moderate in weight. This is semi-professional equipment, and this price can only buy a most elementary machine body in terms of numbers. If you buy Longteng and Sigma lenses, it is much cheaper, but only Nikon and Canon have anti-shake ~

Just use Kodak's 200 negative, which is about 1 1. There is no need to use expensive reverse films with low success rate.

For travelers who use digital SLR, the focal length should be multiplied by 1.5, so the two lenses mentioned above have no wide angle and are not recommended.

Nikon's, it is suggested that the D50 parallel new machine be added with second-hand Hummer 18- 125, and the price is about 5000. The quality of Sigma lens is good, but the workmanship is not very good, which is prone to problems.

Nikon has a 18-200 VR at home, but the price is as high as more than 6000, which is not recommended.

Canon, it is recommended to add a new 350D machine and a second-hand horse 18- 125, and the price is about 6000. You can also consider 17-85 IS, the actual focal length is equivalent to 28- 135, which is very practical, but the price is high and the second-hand goods of 17-85 are few, and the new goods are close to 5000 pieces. I recommend the focal length of 18- 125, because I think it is enough.

Sigma and Longteng also have 18-200 lenses, which can be considered, but the price is not cheap.

To sum up, when traveling, it is enough to bring a zoom lens covering wide angle and medium focus, plus a pan/tilt, which is light and practical.

These large zoom tourist heads are cheap because their aperture is very small, and the image quality is soft and not sharp enough when the aperture is fully open. When using a small aperture, the imaging quality is not much worse than that of a professional head.

Therefore, use F 1 1 as much as possible when shooting scenery, which is the best aperture for most lenses. However, when using a small aperture, the shutter speed will slow down and the possibility of blurring will increase, so it is necessary to ensure the speed safety.

If the speed is not safe enough, turn up the aperture.

Soft is better than fuzzy. What should I do if I need high image quality and sharpness, but I don't want to blur?

Then sacrifice your strength and bring a tripod.

In short, when you play photography, you often face this kind of trade-off problem.

About safe speed

Before introducing the lens selection, introduce the aperture and shutter, so that you can know what kind of lens you need.

The simple principle of camera shooting is this.

Shutter is the time when the camera lets in light.

Aperture is the size of the channel through which the camera allows light to enter.

So when you shoot, the camera will measure the light.

The result of photometry determines how big and how long the channel should be opened under the lighting conditions at that time, so that the film can be exposed enough.

If the scene light is not bright enough and the channel is not large enough, it will take a long time to get enough exposure.

If the channel is opened for too long, the picture will be blurred because of the shaking of the hand.

I'm afraid no one likes to use a tripod except a professional photographer.

I didn't talk about this issue when I introduced DC before, because DC has a handshake prompt.

Seeing the hand shake prompt means that the shutter speed is too slow and easy to blur, so use a tripod.

However, SLR cameras do not have hand shake tips.

The longer the focal length of the lens, the smaller the aperture and the slower the speed, and the easier it is to blur the film.

So, when can I shoot with my bare hands safely? When do you need a tripod?

We need to know the relationship between the safety shutter speed and the focal length of the lens.

The calculation of the safety shutter is expressed by the reciprocal of the lens focal length (or the closest value of the reciprocal).

The safety shutter corresponding to a focal length of 300mm is 1/300 seconds.

In other words, if you are a normal person (except that your hands are shaking badly because of illness)

When using a 300mm lens, the shutter speed must be higher than (or equal to) 1/300 seconds, so that the film will not paste.

Similarly, when you use 125mm, the shutter speed must be higher than or equal to1125ms, so that the film will not be pasted.

What about when using 50mm? Is it 1/50 seconds?

No! It should be greater than or equal to 1/60 seconds, because the shutter without camera is 1/50.

So we should take the nearest value of 50 to 60.

Similarly, the 28mm safety shutter is 1/30 seconds.

The 24mm safety shutter is also 1/30 seconds.

You know, the stronger the scene light, the larger the aperture, and the higher the sensitivity and speed of the film (or photoreceptor).

The shorter the focal length of the lens, the lower the speed requirement.

If you can't reach the safe speed, use a tripod.

In the same light, telephoto lenses need tripods more than wide-angle lenses.

Large aperture lenses are expensive, and telephoto and wide-angle large aperture lenses are more expensive.

So, if you don't like using a tripod and want to improve the success rate of shooting, be prepared to spend a lot of money!

Selection of lens II

If you don't go hiking in a particularly hard place, you can consider bringing an extra lens to make the focal length cover wider.

You know, in landscape photography, wide angle, medium focus and telephoto are indispensable.

With Nikon and Canon film SLR, you can shoot 24-85 mm and 70-300 mm.

With Nikon digital SLR, 18-70mm, 70-300mm.

Canon digital SLR, with 18-55mm and 70-300mm.

None of these lenses are bulky.

It is strongly recommended that no matter what kind of equipment you use, you must bring a 50mm header. It is cheap and light, and its weight and volume are almost negligible, but it can be of great use when the light is insufficient. All lenses are recommended to buy second-hand, which is very cheap.

But you must be careful when changing the lens. Don't change your head when the sandstorm is severe.

If, like me, you want to pursue a large aperture and higher image quality without spending too much money, then I have to recommend a fixed-focus lens to you.

My personal configuration is two films plus three manual focusing lenses, 24 mm F2.8, 50 mm F 1.4, 135 mm F2.8, wide angle, pan/tilt and telephoto (the shortest telephoto, but I think it is enough), all of which are second-hand.

From a professional point of view, this is already a "middle class" configuration, which is very close to the professional level. But the three lenses add up, and the price is less than 4 thousand yuan.

I don't recommend those zoom lenses with large apertures. The price is tens of thousands, and the professional level is not as good as mine (there is no weakness in focusing, hehe).

Manual head or automatic head?

Of course, in the quick snapshot, the success rate of automatic pan/tilt is very high. Using manual pan/tilt is more difficult, but more interesting.

And it is said that imaging is better than automatic pan/tilt (I haven't compared it and dare not draw a conclusion).

I choose manual pan/tilt because photography is fun for me. I don't want to shoot, I just want to have fun. Moreover, manual heads have a large number of goods in the second-hand market, and the price is also low. Hehe, so, it depends on what you value.

Matters needing attention in taking pictures of babies

It is not suitable to shoot babies with flash, so it is very difficult to shoot indoors. The baby is moving at any time, and the indoor light is bright, so it is difficult to get a safe speed, which is easy to cause confusion.

Use DC? Don't even think about it

With a tripod? The camera is not moving, the baby is moving!

What kind of camera is suitable for photographing indoor babies?

You need a large aperture lens and high sensitivity to get a faster shutter speed.

Why is it "available" high sensitivity? Because now some DC's sensitivity is as high as 800 or even 1600, but it can make your chubby child look like a pockmarked face. Because the high sensitivity of DC is useless, you can only shoot, and you can't compliment it when you shoot it. Therefore, the best equipment for baby shooting is digital SLR, because its high sensitivity can reach 800, and the picture quality is comparable to DC's 100!

The most cost-effective configuration is:

Parallel Nikon D50 fuselage+second-hand AF50mm f 1.4 head, the full set price is around 5000.

This is just a better DC price, but its performance is much better than that of DC.

D50 has a children's model, and it is not clear how effective it is.

But one piece is enough. Turn on the light in the room, set the aperture to F 1.4 and the sensitivity to 200, lock the flash, measure the light at the child's place with 3D matrix, check the shutter speed, and ensure that the speed is not lower than1/60s, and then shoot. If it is lower than this speed, increase the sensitivity and retest until a safe speed is obtained, but the sensitivity should not be higher than 800. If the sensitivity reaches 800 and the safe speed is not reached, the compensation will be reduced by 1EV. If it is not enough, you can only change a brighter light bulb!