I would like to ask: indoor shooting still life, two 400-watt photographic lights, how to adjust the aperture and pixels to make the color beautiful, how can I make the color abrupt?

The answers of the three people upstairs all have some merits, but they are all badly hurt. I feel like I don't even have the actual experience of filming in the shed.

If you mainly want to solve the problem of beautiful colors, I can tell you responsibly that the best way is later.

RAW format shooting, convenient for later lossless adjustment.

You should also fully understand your camera and some related settings such as color mode, contrast, sharpness and other options.

Make relevant settings according to the situation of your camera and the content of shooting.

When you talk about the pixel problem, there is no doubt that shooting with the largest pixel.

I always shoot with the largest pixel.

Maximum pixel, minimum standard sensitivity (ISO) and optimal aperture are the basic settings for tent shooting.

Minimum standard sensitivity. Let me explain.

Some cameras, such as Nikon, started with ISO200, but can be extended down to ISO 100.

Don't use expansion, just use the standard minimum sensitivity, which is the best picture quality of this camera.

The best aperture usually means that the maximum aperture of your lens is reduced by about two steps.

In the shed, your light intensity is completely controllable. Don't use the aperture to find light, adjust the light to meet the needs of your aperture. Of course, if your shooting content requires a certain depth of field, the aperture should be adjusted accordingly.

Finally, light.

I think you're talking about two 400-watt studio flashes.

In your question, the maximum power of the lamp is certain.

But the lamp is adjustable within the maximum power range, and the placement position is also adjustable.

So I can't tell you a definite aperture value at all.

You'd better send a sample so that I can help you analyze the problem in a targeted way.

In addition, everyone upstairs also mentioned the exposure mode and metering mode.

Those who mentioned these two points were definitely not actually photographed in the shed.

Carpet shooting 100% must be manual exposure.

The exposure time is usually the flash synchronization time of your machine.

The aperture depends on the actual light distribution.

The idea of exposure compensation is also ridiculous. Do you still need exposure compensation in manual exposure mode?

Accurately speaking, it should be holding a flash exposure meter to decide the metering method.

No matter spot metering or matrix evaluation metering, no flash can be detected by any metering method in the machine.

Unless you use the original overhead flash, you can TTL.

Sorry, I can't tell you a definite adjustment value. I have to understand photography and make corresponding adjustments according to the actual situation.

Anything that tells you a definite value is unprofessional and irresponsible.

If you are not sure, please ask questions. If you are in Beijing, you are welcome to exchange photos together.