Tips for novice photographers to use matrix metering

Introduction: For novice or amateur photographers, metering often seems difficult to master, and the camera also has many different metering modes built in, so when should you use which metering mode? Which mode can you use to get the effect you want? Now let me share how to use "matrix metering" to cope with 99% of daily environments! After you learn it, you can take the photos you want at any time without changing the metering mode. The effect! Tips for novice photographers when using matrix metering

Let’s first talk about what metering modes are

In modern digital cameras, most of them will have at least three kinds of metering. Modes:

Matrix/Evaluative Metering

Center-weighted Metering

Spot Metering < /p>

The difference between them is actually the range chosen to calculate the brightness. Matrix metering will select the area of ??the full-frame photo for calculation, while spot metering will use the focus point or a very small area in the middle. Metering, and center-weighted metering is somewhere in between.

The following is the metering diagram of the Canon camera:

A good partner for matrix metering: exposure compensation button (+/-EV)

In use When using matrix metering, the camera has a very useful and seamless function, which is the exposure compensation button (+/-EV)! The exposure compensation button allows you to increase or decrease the exposure value by yourself. Something to note is , the adjustment button does not use post-production methods to make modifications like Photoshop, but directly adds or subtracts aperture, shutter or ISO to achieve changes in exposure, so it is more worthy of use than post-production modification.

To use the exposure compensation button, just press the button and turn the dial, or click once and add or subtract. Please read the camera manual for details!

Use matrix measurement Lighting skills

(1) In normal light-receiving scenes

Shooting in a normal light-receiving environment, that is, when there is no very bright or very dark situation, modern Digital cameras have been able to measure light very accurately, try to maintain a balance between the light and dark levels of photos, and intelligently set aperture, shutter and ISO values. Therefore, whether you are shooting outdoors or indoors, as long as you are not shooting under extreme light sources, you can trust the ability of matrix metering and shoot directly!

(2) In backlight/backlight scenes

When you take a backlit/backlit photo, your subject will be facing away from the light source and the lens will be facing the light source. At this time, the camera's matrix metering will think that there are many bright areas in the photo (assuming that your subject is not covered (focusing on the entire frame), thus darkening the overall photo to achieve balance, the subject will become underexposed or become a silhouette. Of course, this is very convenient if the ultimate goal is to shoot a silhouette, otherwise you have to significantly increase the exposure compensation (sometimes +3EV is required) or use a flash to fill in the light for the subject!

(3) In When shooting black/white scenes

When black/white things account for a large part of the photo, matrix metering will make mistakes, thinking that the environment is very dark/very light, and result in overexposure or underexposure. Wrong setting, so we have to use experience to -/+ EV to correct the lack of matrix metering before pressing the shutter. There is a formula that is easy to remember, and everyone must know it:

When encountering darkness, it becomes dark (-EV), when encountering light, it becomes light (+EV)

Explanation: When encountering something black To reduce EV, increase EV when encountering white things (many students will make mistakes!)

(4) When taking portraits

Normally, when taking portrait photos, The face should have the correct exposure, so pay more attention to the exposure.

When you use matrix metering, you must first look at the light around the person to make +/-EV compensation. Some examples are: There is no need to adjust the EV when the face is facing normal and sufficient light. There is no need to adjust the EV when shooting a silhouette with backlight/backlight. , if necessary, EV can be reduced. The backlight/backlit subject should be exposed normally +2 to +3EV. There is a large light source in the composition, and the metering may be wrong, making the photo too dark +EV. The Japanese scenery is bright and calm +EV

(5) When facing the sun/light source

When your photo contains the sun or a strong light source, unless you are using a wide-angle lens and the light source only accounts for a small part of the photo, the camera will expose the photo Lower it to make the photo darker. At this time, you may wish to +0.7 or +1.3EV (adjust according to the situation) before shooting to return the photo to normal exposure.

(6) When shooting night scenes

When shooting night scenes, if the photo is full of light sources (such as neon lights, Christmas lights, etc.), you need to increase the EV, otherwise it will The photo will be darker; but if it is mostly dark, you need to reduce the EV to prevent the black areas from being overexposed and turning into gray.

Of course, the matrix metering at this time is just a reference. It is best to use manual mode to fully grasp the exposure value!

Postscript

The author is As a heavy user of matrix metering, basically in addition to shooting concerts or shooting in manual mode, matrix metering can also allow me to successfully take photos with normal exposure, so as long as I learn how matrix metering works in different environments By using this method, you can avoid the trouble of switching metering modes!