Hanfu decorative accessories

Hanfu includes clothes, headdress, hairstyle, face coverings, shoes, accessories and other uniform combinations of the overall clothing system, which condenses the outstanding features of Chinese culture such as textiles, batik, valerian and brocade. Craftsmanship and aesthetics have inherited more than 30 pieces of Chinese intangible cultural heritage, embodying the reputation of a splendid China, a country with fine clothes and a country with etiquette. The main entry for cloth: brocade, silk, damask, Luo, silk, cloth, cotton, linen, yarn

Since the Yellow Emperor, there are mainly two types of fabrics for Hanfu: ramie and silk. Diansi is in charge, and Ge is in charge of collecting ramie for making Gebu. Gebu, also known as grass cloth, is the fabric used for mourning clothes, sacrificial clothes and dark clothes. The finer ones in linen are called silk threads. In summer, it is made of kudzu and linen gauze, and in winter, it is filled with silk floss, so it is called winter cotton, summer kudzu, and summer gauze and winter crepe. By the Eastern Han Dynasty, cotton spinning and weaving began to flourish in Hainan and Yunnan. According to the textile technology and warp and weft structure, fabrics can be subdivided into brocade, damask, Luo, silk, yarn, silk, silk, crepe, silk, satin and so on. During the Qin and Han Dynasties, in addition to Qi Wan and Lu Zhen, there were also famous products such as Wu Ling, Yue Luo, Chu Silk, and Shu Brocade. Later, the Northern Song Dynasty court set up the "Lingjin Yuan" in Tokyo and recruited many Shu brocade weavers to make dresses for the nobles, thus forming the Song brocade. In the Ming Dynasty, Nanjing was established as the capital, and Yunjin was formed. Weaving gold, brocade, Luo and damask are the most expensive fabrics, and the headdress is made of Qingluo Yi, Chiluo Shang and Chiluo knee-covering. Round collar robes and official uniforms are all made of silk. The chest and back of official uniforms are made of the most exquisite silk brocade. Category of cloth and silk Use intangible cultural heritage Xia cloth mourning clothes, sacrificial clothes, court clothes, deep clothes, crowns, hats Clothes, chest and back, carved silk floral robe, dark green floral gauze python robe, Ming Dynasty green floral gauze python skirt, camel lotus phoenix embroidery satin skirt, persimmon pedicle yoked python floral robe Sichuan brocade , Song brocade, Yun brocade, Kesiluo red Luo knee-covering, Bailuo large belt, Bailuo middle single, Bailuo square heart curved collar, red Luo pin gold robe, Mingluo ground embroidery hundred women's jacket, thin Luo shirt , Luo Ru, Luo skirt, yellow Luo gold skirt, green Luo wipes, Luo socks, Luo Pahangluo, Wu Luo weaving skills damask silk green silk skirt, yellow silk hakama, white silk socks, white silk jacket, phoenix bird Light yellow silk cotton robe with floral embroidery, double forest silk, Luqiao silk fragrant silk blouse and trousers, yellow gauze ground printed colorful silk cotton robe, plain yarn Zen robe, fragrant cloud yarn dyeing and finishing technique, satin lilac straight body, silver red silk Straight jacket, purple silk jacket, Zhang velvet jacket, beige four-in-one dark satin skirt with moire pattern, brown dark satin skirt with four seasons floral pattern, brown checkered dark satin diagonal lapel jacket, Lu silk, Pu silk, Cocoon silk, Zhang satin, velvet "Xinqi embroidery" silk cotton robe, vermilion rhombus pattern silk cotton robe, Western Han Dynasty printed colored gauze silk cotton robe, plain silk cotton robe Yuhang Qingshui silk cotton production technology cotton blue cloth thick cotton Taoist robe Wunijing handmade cotton textile technology, Wei County native weaving technology, Lu brocade weaving technology three-valerian valerian flower skirt, twisted valerian silk, hunting pattern valerian silk, green land ten kinds of gray valerian silk, bright-clip valerian silk Blue Valerian Technology, Nantong Blue Calico Printing and Dyeing Technology, Pizhou Blue Calico Gold Decoration, Gold Weaving and Gold Thread, Gold Pin, Gold Seal, Gold Tracing, Gold Embroidery, Gold Cluster Embroidery, Gold Circle, Sheepskin Gold, Nanjing Gold Foil Forging Technique, Embroidery Folding Clothing embroidery, Luo ground dragon, phoenix and tiger pattern embroidery, silk ground dogwood pattern embroidery, phoenix and snake pattern embroidery for autumn clothes, flower and bird embroidery jacket, Qin Liang Yuping gold embroidered python and phoenix shirt, Su embroidery, Hunan embroidery, Shu embroidery, Cantonese embroidery, Ou embroidery, Gaoping embroidery, Ningbo gold and silver color embroidery silk thread, tapestry thread, embroidery thread, Suzhou flower thread production techniques Zhouli stipulated that dyers should engage in printing and dyeing, and set up officials specializing in the management of plant dyes to be responsible for "palm dyeing grass" for dip-dying clothes. The traditional printing and dyeing of Hanfu is divided into mineral dyeing and vegetable dyeing. Mineral dye raw materials include cinnabar, stone yellow, azurite, azurite, beetroot, mirage, and carbon black. Traditional plant and wood dyeing materials include: indigo, safflower, ebony, reed wood, hematoxylin, cork, alum, amaranth, sophora japonica, calabash, bayberry bark, blueberry leaves, lotus seed shells, mung bean powder, etc.

Clamping, waxing and twisting are unique printing techniques in Hanfu printing and dyeing. Emperor Yang of the Sui Dynasty once ordered craftsmen to print colorful valerian flower skirts to reward palace maids and the wives and mothers of officials. Gray Valerian is a substitute for batik since the Tang Dynasty. The gray valerian cloth dyed with indigo grass is called blue calico, or medicine spot cloth in ancient times. Zhou Li also established positions such as "Dian Fu Gong" and "Sewing Man" to be responsible for embroidery. "The Rites of Zhou·Huayou" says: "Five kinds of things are prepared, which is called embroidery." According to the traditional habits of different regions, embroidery methods with different styles and characteristics have been formed. The most famous among them are Su embroidery in Jiangsu, Hunan embroidery in Hunan, Shu embroidery in Sichuan and Cantonese embroidery in Guangdong, which are known as the four famous embroideries in China. Heraldry Main article: Twelve coats of arms

The coats of arms of Hanfu are extremely rich. The Zhou rites "valuing coats of arms" represent the beliefs and customs of Han culture. The heraldry in Hanfu is closely related to various cultural symbols in the consciousness and understanding of the Han people, such as the shape of the sky and the earth, the Yin and Yang Bagua, the invisible and colorless, auspicious patterns and other cultural symbols.

The Yellow Emperor's Fuyi is the earliest coat with a coat of arms, and Fu refers to a coat of arms with two opposite colors. "The Book of Songs" says: "When a gentleman reaches his end, he wears embroidered clothes, wears jade, and never forgets his longevity test." Emperor Yu's "sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons, Chinese insects, Zongyi, algae, fire, Among the twelve emblems of "fenmi, 黼, 黻", the sun, moon, and stars are bright, symbolizing the birth and development of all things. The mountain dragon makes clouds and rain, and can adapt to bring things to bear to help people and match the sky. The fire is bright and flaming, emphasizing the spirit of understanding and respecting etiquette. Another example is the tiger, fierce and fierce; the dragonfly, wise, like a god with force to calm chaos. Fan Mi Li people. The elephant can be cut off. The elephant's back brushes against injustice, maybe the monarch and his ministers can help each other.

The "New Book of Tang Dynasty·Cars and Clothes Records" records the insignia patterns of official uniforms, including falcons holding auspicious grass, wild geese holding ribbons, and rehmannia intersecting branches. The official uniforms of civil and military officers in the Ming Dynasty had embroidery to indicate their rank. The emblems were mainly animals, such as the crane of the first rank of civil servants, the golden pheasant of the second rank, the peacock of the third rank, the cloud goose of the fourth rank, the white pheasant of the fifth rank, the egret of the sixth rank, and the owl of the seventh rank. , the eighth-rank oriole, the ninth-rank quail; the military attaché the first- and second-rank lion, the third- and fourth-rank tiger and leopard, the fifth-rank bear, the sixth- and seventh-rank Biao, the eighth-rank rhinoceros, and the ninth-rank seahorse. On civilian clothing, there are separate patterns composed of animal origins, which are different from the animals in the official clothing patterns. The most important one is the twelve zodiac signs. In addition, the patterns of Hanfu often use Bagua pictures.

Hanfu’s patterns like to use patterns with auspicious meanings. Such as "six years of spring", "harvest harvest", "icing on the cake" and other patterns. At the same time, different patterns will be chosen according to different occasions. For example, newlywed wedding clothes and gifts given to lovers by Xin Wushang often use patterns based on mandarin ducks, such as "mandarin ducks concentric", "mandarin ducks playing in the water", etc.; birthdays often use "songs and cranes longevity", "cranes offering flat peaches", " Turtles and cranes are as old as each other" and other patterns that mean longevity. Foot clothing main entry: 舄, shoe, 屦, clog, boots, shoes

The foot clothing of Hanfu is divided into: 舄, shoe, 屦, clog, boots and shoes. After Yao, Shun and Yu, people began to wear wooden clogs. Yi Yin used grass as his shoes and silk as his clothes. Zhou people used hemp as shoes. Clogs are wooden shoes with teeth under them, also known as wooden clogs. In the south of the Yangtze River, people use paulownia wood as the base, cattail as shoes, and hemp to wear through their noses. "Southern Guangdong Notes" records: "The cedar wood grows with water pine roots. It is fragrant and tough. It can be used as clogs, which is called Xiangxiang clogs. The Chaozhou people cut it into clogs, which is light and soft. It is called Chaozhou clogs." It is also said that "in central Guangdong Many maidservants wore red leather clogs, and the scholar-bureaucrats wore them loosely when bathing in the cool air. They were called "scatty clogs" and were made of grass-skin clogs made by the Huangdi officials. Straw sandals and boots come from Zhao Wuling's Hu Fu Qishe. Chaozhou clogs, Hangzhou Hecun embroidered shoes, Pizhou embroidered shoes, and Pizhou hemp shoes have been included in the intangible cultural heritage. When Han men and women reach adulthood, their hair is tied into a bun and fixed with hairpins. The main headwear includes hats, scarves, etc. The main hats include gauze hats, hoods, hats, etc., and the scarves mainly include silk scarves, net scarves, etc.

Men often wear crowns, scarves, hats, etc. The most common ones include crowns, hats, and hats. In the Han Dynasty, people with high positions usually wore hats first, while civilians only wore hats. No crown is worn, and white silk scarves (gauze) are used to wrap the head during festivals. In ordinary times, only small hats and straw hats are worn. In the Tang Dynasty, hats were the main style, and white silk scarves were used to wrap the hair and hair. Wing futou, when serving, people wear right-angled futou, while civilians wear cool hats and bamboo hats in summer, and deep-brimmed hats and dust hats in winter. There are many types of headscarves in the Song and Yuan Dynasties, such as dome-top scarves, square-top scarves, piano-top scarves, Gauze scarf, silk scarf, Dongpo scarf, Chengzi scarf, Shanshan scarf, etc. There were many types of hats in the Ming Dynasty, and they varied from person to person.

Women's first clothes were mainly issued by the deputy and the number. The bun can be combed into various styles, and various ornaments such as beads and flowers can be worn on the bun. Some Han women wear hairpins on both sides of their hair, and they also wear curtains and hats. , comb, hairpin, Huasheng, Buyao, Jindan, Zhuhua, Lezi (forehead patch). Diji is a combination of gold and silver jewelry among the eight major jewelry. The characteristic of wearing a crown has been recorded in the Han Dynasty. Women in the Southern Dynasty liked to decorate their hair with combs. In the Tang Dynasty, women in the palace often wore long white-horned combs on their crowns. Later, it was spread to the people, and the Song Dynasty poem said: hairpins and hairpins. In the Ming Dynasty, women in the Ming Dynasty also had the custom of wearing silk flowers on their hairpins. In the Ming Dynasty, the Confucius Mansion set up a tenant flower farm in Dazhuang, which was dedicated to the Confucius Mansion and his wife and ladies to wear silk flowers all year round. Filigree inlays were a unique jewelry craft of the Han people and reached a high artistic level in the Ming Dynasty. , represented by Chengdu silver filigree production techniques and Beijing filigree inlay techniques. An important feature of Han people's decoration is that they like to decorate with jade pendants, as well as accessories such as knee coverings, silk shawls, socks, sachets (sachets), Swords, ribbons, seals, wats, tooth medals, leather belts, jade belts, 銊, snakes, etc. The waist ornaments mainly include Pei Fu, Pei Yu, Pei Yin, Pei Shou, Pei fish, Pei badges, Pei ornaments and other accessories. The furniture is called a clothes rack, and the clothes hanger for hanging Han clothes is called a clothes rack. The intangible cultural heritage accessories include Yangzhou jade carvings, Beijing jade carvings, ivory carvings, gold and stone seal cutting ribbons, Chinese knot sabers, Longquan sword forging techniques, sachets, and Qingyang sachet embroidery. Xuzhou sachet, wild goose pagoda knotted sachet jewelry, Beijing filigree inlay technology, Chengdu silver filigree production technology, gold and silver fine workmanship production technology, Beijing silk flower technology, Changzhou comb grate, Qionghai Dongpo Li decorative patterns Decorative patterns of Han nationality costumes On the canvas, animals, plants and geometric patterns are mostly used. The expression of patterns has roughly gone through several stages, including abstraction, standardization and realism. The patterns before the Shang and Zhou dynasties, like the original Chinese characters, were relatively concise, general, and highly abstract. From the Zhou Dynasty to the Tang and Song Dynasties, the patterns became increasingly neat, balanced up and down, symmetrical left and right, and the pattern layout was tight. During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, attention was paid to realistic techniques. Various animals and plants were often depicted in a delicate, realistic and lifelike way, as if they were taken directly from real life without any processing, which fully demonstrated the diligence and wisdom of the Han people.

Color The dyeing of classical fabrics follows ancient methods and reflects the belief in Yin Yang and the Five Elements. There are "black soil, white soil, red soil, green soil, loess", "the sky calls it black, the earth calls it yellow, green and white are in the order, red and black are in the order, black and yellow are in the order. Green and red are the text. , red and white are called the seal, white and black are called the seal, black feathers and green are called the seal, and the five colors are called the seal... The seal is mixed with the positions of the four seasons and five colors, which is called the cleverness." , Be careful at the beginning, correct the new moon, and be easy to accept the color" record.

There are six images and six colors. Green is like wood in the east, red is like fire in the south, white is like gold in the west, black is like water in the north, black is like the sky, and yellow is like the sky. Xiangdi. In addition to the six primary colors, there are also corresponding secondary colors: yellow-red, purple-green-red, red-red-white, green-green-yellow, and ethereal white. Intermediate colors are also the color system of official uniforms after the Southern and Northern Dynasties: vermilion, purple, scarlet, green, and blue. For example, in the Tang Dynasty, purple official uniforms were worn for the third rank and above, dark crimson for the fourth rank, light crimson for the fifth rank, and dark purple for the sixth rank. Green, the seventh grade is light green, the eighth grade is dark cyan, and the ninth grade is light cyan. In addition, there are cyan, deep green, red, crimson red, crimson red, tidan yellow, and deep red.

Traditionally, there are obvious class divisions in the choice of clothing colors. Since the Tang Dynasty, yellow has long been regarded as a noble color, and only the emperor's dignitaries can wear it. The colors of ancient Hanfu were more expensive than dark colors, followed by light colors. Therefore, formal dresses often used deep cotton patterns, with one color as the main color and decorated with bright and gorgeous embroidery. Common people usually use light colors for their regular clothes, so they are called Qian Shou, Bai Ding, Qing Yi, Qing Jin, Qing Shan, and Zhe Yi.