Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Photography major - YSL "heir", he conquered the world with minimalist aesthetics.

YSL "heir", he conquered the world with minimalist aesthetics.

"Less is more."

This is a classic quotation of Ludwig Mies Van der Rohe, a design master who specializes in minimalism.

The popularity of "minimalism" in the mouth of this big boss still depends on the era of "simple birth from poverty" in the early 20th century. ...

During the war, materials were in short supply, and countries "scrimped and saved" to tide over the difficulties, breaking the unwritten dress code of society. For example, at that time, even the size of lapels and skirts, the number of buttons and pockets were strictly regulated, and every household learned the good work of "preventing insects and moth" and "transforming old clothes". Everyone is rubbed out by life on the ground, and the clothes are not exquisite. ...

In addition, with more women participating in social work, professional women need comfortable clothes, not bound clothes. Avant-garde designers such as coco chanel liberated women's waist with straight clothes. Both professional women and celebrities in high society are gradually conquered by "minimalist style" under the temptation of "comfort" and step into the modern ranks.

Until the second feminist movement in 1960s and 1980s, designer Yves Saint Laurent improved a light and simple suit, which made women wear men's suits, and also contributed to minimalism. Although minimalism didn't arrive at home until the 1990s, slightly cold clothes became so popular.

When YSL "touched" the world with a minimalist suit, jean paul Knodt, the protagonist of our current story, also entered.

Jean paul Knodt, a Belgian minimalist designer who was once considered as the heir of YSL and once took charge of Cerruti 188 1 and KRIZIA, began to like Zhao Wei, Zhang Xinyi and Christina after "starting his own business".

Next, let's talk about Mr. Knodt and his minimalist design …

YSL workers

Mr Knodt was born in Belgium. When the whole world went on a pilgrimage to Paris, Mr. Knodt, who was just an adult, crossed the Atlantic to the United States and studied fashion design at Fit, a famous fashion school in new york.

In the early 1980s, he just graduated and wrote a letter of recommendation to Yves Saint Laurent (of course, the content will not be like Versailles literature).

Because of the letter of recommendation, he successfully joined the Yves Saint Laurent brand and became a senior design assistant, which lasted 13 years. In those years, YSL's rebellious or elegant clothes were indispensable in his work as a "migrant worker". If the most representative work is 1997, he "delivered" the "YSL Rive Gauche" ready-to-wear series under the leadership of his immediate boss, Loulou de la Falaise.

Looking back on this work experience, Mr. Knodt said, "Under the influence of Mr. Yves Saint Laurent, all the clothes I designed are very practical."

As the inheritor of "minimalist style", Mr. Knodt returned to Brussels in 1999 and founded his own brand the following year. Less than two years after returning to his hometown, he was invited to be the creative director of KRIZIA.

In this way, American pragmatism and French exquisiteness are integrated into his personal brand.

Usually, people mistakenly equate minimalism with normal indifference. In fact, minimalism doesn't want you to be a "cold baby" or a temperature "insulator".

Minimalism attaches importance to the functionality of clothing, and simplifies the complex, just like JEAN PAUL KNOTT's simple and elegant design style, which combines rigid lines with feminine charm.

"I don't think there is anything sexier than a woman wearing a boyfriend's shirt." In an interview, he once mentioned the sexiness in his eyes.

Mr. Knodt and His Minimalist Art

During the 20 years since he established his personal brand, Mr. Knodt has been constantly improving his design style.

In the classic black, white and gray colors, unsaturated bright colors are added to ensure the integrity of the style, and at the same time, it perfectly combines jumping and calmness. The simple collision of colors and fabrics creates a subtle fashion world. No unnecessary cutting ensures simplicity and beauty, and also ensures the comfort of clothing to the greatest extent.

"High-quality fabrics combined with minimalist design" has also become a business card for him and the brand in the fashion circle:

Only one year after its establishment, the studio was invited to hold an exhibition in the Louvre.

In 2008, he returned to Paris Fashion Week with ready-to-wear collections, and soon after, he was also affirmed by the aristocratic class.

Then it landed in China for the first time in 20 19, and the ready-to-wear series with the theme of the new wave film "A Man and a Woman" interpreted the concept of gender-free with the "box" structure, and discussed the relationship between love and life.

In order to continue this concept, at the press conference, Mr. Knodt also made a skirt that does not move a stitch (this is probably the difference between a designer and a "mortal" ...

The spring/summer 2020 series "UNE Women and Men 2.0" (One Woman and One Man 2.0) explores the relationship between "harmony and interdependence in independence", and "thinking design" allows more minimalist lovers to explore the power behind the details.

Of course, Mr. Knodt is very good at minimalist clothing, and he is not bad in other aspects. To be exact, he is a "hidden" artist in the fashion circle.

200 1 Design costumes for Maurice Bejat Dance Company;

It is not enough to hold an exhibition in the Louvre. In 2006, he opened his own concept gallery, dedicated to expressing clothing, fashion and art. In the same year, he designed a room for the Royal Windsor Hotel in Brussels.

For their "love" for art, the somebody else is sauce purple explanation:

"Fashion and art can never be separated, because in life, people's contact with the outside world will not stop. In my opinion, fashion is people-oriented, putting fashion with artistic ideas on yourself and making yourself a disseminator of art. "

Mr Knodt thinks that the clothes he designed can simplify life and enjoy the beauty of life. The architectural sense, neat tailoring and the artist's perspective have quietly influenced every wearer. He regards fashion as the art of walking and makes his design "simple but not boring".

Who is the real minimalist?

From simple to complex, from complex to simple. Especially in the "leap soil" everywhere, the half-hour turnover broke the double eleven of 372.3 billion, and it is even more difficult to practice "minimalism".

However, I still want to say that people who really love minimalism hold the idea that less is more, less is disorder, and more is restraint and self-discipline. Really having faith and not blindly following is the meaning of "minimalism".

What Mr. Knodt wants to create is highly consistent with fabrique's belief that he refuses to be uniform in aesthetics and is proud of his uniqueness, whether it is a design concept or a woman who pursues quality and singleness.

We believe that a more diversified definition of beauty is confidence, glory and independence.