Is it lazy for fashion designers to "copy" famous paintings?

Last time, we mentioned the Louvre, a marketing genius.

Among the various "joint actions" that the Louvre actively expands its communication, the most closely linked and official action with the fashion circle is the Da Vinci series in cooperation with Off-White. ...

I also mentioned LV X Koons, the master of the series at that time, but it should be noted that this is not an official cooperation between the Louvre and Louis Vuitton.

Accurately speaking, this series of printed "famous paintings" are all recreations by the artist Jeff Koons, inspired by his famous series "Staring at the Ball", staring at the ball.

The creation of this series aims to "connect" the works of the masters with the present: when you look at the paintings of these masters, the viewer becomes a part of the paintings through the blue reflective staring ball.

Why can Quince and Louis Vuitton so blatantly "misappropriate" the works of masters to create their own "consumer goods"?

Because according to the copyright laws of various countries, artists' works enter the public domain 50 years after their death (70 years in the EU and some countries), and citizens can use them for free. ...

Of course, there are also many fashion designs inspired by famous paintings and works of art, rather than directly copying the paintings themselves. Or use "appropriation" or splicing through "montage" ...

Anyway, art has always been the biggest inspiration treasure house for fashion designers. ...

Take Venus, the number one girl in the Louvre as an example. There are so many designers who pay tribute to her that we have to visit Fashion Week every now and then.

Many tight bottoming shirts designed by jean paul gaultier in 1990s are printed with Venus. Because it is close to the body and connected with the wearer's figure, there will be a sexy edge ball that looks exposed, but it is not.

It is hard to say that discussing existing works in a suitable new context is not another kind of "innovation".

There are also designers who visit museums and look for the inspiration of fashion design itself directly from ancient paintings. Of course, it is not copied from the original, but modernized. ...

LV 20 12 spring and summer

Inspired by the girl who weaves lace.

Elie Saab 20 1 1 high in spring

Inspired by Titian's Woman in the Mirror

Let's just say that in the just-concluded four major fashion weeks, designers who are idle at home also "exhibited" works of art.

It is not necessarily a concrete representation of a painting, but also an ethereal atmosphere.

For example, in the spring of Cecilie Bahnsen 202 1, can you see from the lookbook which master inspired her?

Noisy, just below, Danish painter Peder Severin Kr? Yer's watercolor painting "Summer Night at Scanan Beach".

Cecilie Bahnsen did not directly copy the clothes in the painting, but we can see the connection between them from the color, temperament and framing of the lookbook.

Is it lazy speculation to learn from famous paintings?

The answer is put aside. For what purpose, who to learn from and how to learn are all particular ~

0 1. Intuitive application of artistic works

It is the most common way to re-create by directly using the elements in the painting, but the expression is not as simple as "printing".

The most famous example: Yves Saint Laurent launched six clothes inspired by mondriaan in autumn and winter of 1965.

They put pictures on dresses that were popular at that time. The square box skirt fits firmly with the geometric lines of the painting and becomes a classic in one fell swoop.

For the same painting, Italian designer grimaldi Bandini's interpretation of mondriaan is quite unusual.

Painters use paint brushes as tools, but designers have more "pens". It can be spliced with scissors, knitted or embroidered. ...

Embroidery is the closest craft to painting.

Yves Saint Laurent once paid tribute to many artists in the spring and summer haute couture of 1988, and re-painted Van Gogh's famous works such as Iris, Starry Night and Paul Cézanne's Apple Basket on clothes.

Its "pigments" are countless flashes and beads of different colors. The craftsman embroidered Van Gogh's breathtaking beauty with ultra-precision craftsmanship. ...

In 20 14, Maison Margiela still paid tribute to Van Gogh in a high direction. Designers use deconstruction to separate iris flowers one by one, and each flower is made of beads and thin lines, and then they are reorganized in disorder.

The same program also paid tribute to the lobster in Dali, which almost surpassed the second element, and countless shrimps were exaggerated as part of the clothing …

When raf simons worked in Jill Thornton, he used knitting technology to "move" Picasso's paintings into his clothes.

Later, when he was in Dior, he collaborated with his artist friend sterling ruby, wearing haute couture clothes to "paint" his ink painting.

At first glance, it seems like a simple cloth print? But this is not the case.

Because Sterling's works are very colorful, ordinary cloth patterns are difficult to restore. This high-definition dress adopts the "warp printing" technology: the color is not printed on the cloth, but on the line, and then the "painting" is completed through precise weaving.

Isn't it a new work of art?

In fact, if a famous artist's work is successfully recreated, this element may become a new "art label".

For example, in the spring and summer show of 20 13, Prada took inspiration from andy warhol's flowers, borrowed and "pulled away" the flowers in his screen-printed works, and arranged them on clothes and handbags.

This form of flower arrangement has been frequently used by various popular or niche designer brands at home and abroad, which has become a new "inspiration".

02. Break through 2D and 3D expression

Andy warhol also has a famous screen printing work, canned Campbell Soup, which has been widely loved by fashion designers for many years.

This painting by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac in the spring and summer of 1984 can be regarded as the most interesting one. The combination of the shape and pattern of the whole dress makes the model a walking jar.

The painting is flat, but the human body is three-dimensional. It is also quite common to "recreate" three-dimensional works of art with the help of human body.

Moschino paid tribute to Picasso in the spring and summer of 2020, and many shapes were born out of Picasso's abstract paintings.

Although Jeremy Scott is interesting, he never wants to paste patterns in a simple way. He turned a two-dimensional painting into a three-dimensional one by means of three-dimensional presentation ~

Moschino is not the first brand to think of doing this, Yves Saint Laurent did it as early as 1988 ~

These designs pay tribute to the artist georges braque. Designers cut out the shape of pigeons in Braque's paintings with cloth, and then pasted them on different parts of the clothing to create a dynamic "three-dimensional surround" of pigeons around the model.

Thierry mugler designed a pink dress in autumn/winter 1995, imitating Botticelli's famous painting The Birth of Venus.

Even now, it seems interesting for the brain to leave the Milky Way.

This form not only stereoscopic the elements in the painting, but also reproduces the picture in the painting.

Jean-Paul jean paul gaultier's modeling in the spring and summer of 2007 "stereoscopic" the image of the Virgin Mary.

The clothes themselves are not deliberately copied, but you can't help thinking of Botticelli's Portrait of the Virgin.

In this situation, it is not only the costume design itself that pays tribute to artistic painting, but also the model becomes the person in the painting, and * * * completes the painting together.

03. Reshape the atmosphere or concept

There are also some designers who do not pursue specific "shape" when paying tribute to famous paintings, but approach the paintings from the overall image.

For example, in autumn and winter of 2005, Yves Saint Laurent drew inspiration from Jansenism paintings of nuns and priests in the17th century and designed a series of clothes.

Although it is not a nun's dress, the overall temperament of the skirt, even with sexy hollowing out, can clearly remind people of the abstinence and solemnity of nuns. ...

Valentino's paintings paying tribute to the spring and summer of 2020 are even more abstract. ...

If you don't watch the interview with the designer, you can't imagine that the designer is looking for inspiration from a painting "Grisaille" in the Renaissance.

This kind of painting adopts gray-scale technique, painting only in gray shadows, thus producing relief effect.

The lines and folds of Valentino's clothes are trying to simulate the treatment of folded cloth in the painting.

I have always admired Pierpaolo Piccioli, the creative director of Valentino. As an Italian, he likes to use Renaissance works of art as concrete or abstract inspiration.

And the designed clothes are modern, fashionable and practical.

I often think that our vast country has been fighting logging for five thousand years, and the reserve of artistic works is no less than that of the Renaissance. Why can't you escape the concrete and metaphysical elements such as cheongsam and belt buckle when you are doing "Chinese style"?

Unexpectedly, this time at Shanghai Fashion Week, I saw a surprise: Lily Business Fashion turned the works of Qi Baishi, a world-class treasure painter, into a clothing series with both oriental aesthetics and contemporary aesthetics.

In fact, as long as you look at the exhibition, it is difficult to find that these prints have anything to do with Qi Baishi, a master of Chinese painting. Because of the strong color, I didn't know it was "Chinese painting" for a moment. ...

Another reason is that in these fashions, its appearance seems too reasonable.

The red flower on this look is actually "picked" from Qi Baishi's painting Peach Blossom Map. They have freehand decorations on hats, cuffs and skirts.

A closer look reveals that the embroidery is very heavy!

Because it is planned to go public around the Spring Festival next year,

So the moral is also profound: the peach blossom is in bloom.

Chinese painting, with one ink and one water, outlines mountains, rivers, clouds, bamboo forests, birds and animals with five ink colors, or with thick ink or understatement.

But until the 20th century, ink painting always emphasized ink painting and suppressed color. Ink painting is respected, and the painter always seems to be a supporting role. Until modern times, many people began to break this situation.

Qi Baishi played a vital role in it. Influenced by folk art, he boldly used color in Chinese painting. His colors are bold but properly limited, bright, clear and elegant, not flattering,

Qi Baishi's paintings are full of vitality and charm.

The experience of rural life and interest in folk art in adolescence are rooted in his blood. Let him enjoy the theme that can be seen everywhere in all life of calligraphy and painting, "depicting thousands of insects and opening up the gods for hundreds of birds."

Qi Baishi even painted "tacky" crops such as litchi, pumpkin and persimmon with relish.

Qi Baishi, Persimmon Peace

The homonym "World Peace" will also appear in the new product launched next spring.

Another handsome short cross hem coat is embroidered with Qi Baishi's "Loquat Map".

Clusters of golden and round loquat were described by the ancients as "picking all the loquat trees with gold" and "leaving a golden pill for me to taste", so there has always been a wonderful meaning of "loquat with high gold content".

Generally speaking, designers often use China elements more in "form" when expressing strong "oriental images". But Lily chose denim, a more modern, relaxed and practical material. Soft cowboy color, elegant and freehand brushwork, but also a good load of the master's vibrant ink brush strokes.

I have to say, in concept, it is also matched with Qi Baishi, a master who can lift weights easily!

In fact, LILY's interpretation of "Chinese style" has always had her own way: she can find unexpected elements in China without leaving the fashionable category of "business fashion".

In this big show, the special cooperation series of chinese national geography has been released for one year, and it has also ushered in a grand finale!

From China's mountains and rivers to exotic animals, Lily contains the geographical features of China's vast land in her fashion.

What a surprise!

The seemingly abstract pattern on this dress is actually taken from the geographical wonders of China, the "Devil's Eye" in Qinghai and Aiken Spring.

Aiken Spring is located in Mangya City, Haixi Mongolian and Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Qinghai Province.

Seen from the air, the spring eye and the spewing spring water look like an "eye". The surrounding red and yellow grass beach is formed by long-term precipitation of sulfur and other minerals in geothermal hot springs.

Photography is undoubtedly a kind of artistic work. Is it "Chinese style" to "paint" China's unique geographical scenery on clothes in such a fashionable and freehand way?

This year's popular tourist destination, Dali Erhai Lake, was also selected for its unique lakes and mountains.

I especially like this "Erhai suit jacket". This "beauty" also needs some craftsmanship. Sequins embroidery is used in suit fabric to create a beautiful effect of the lake.

Another set of beautiful patterns captures the beautiful scenery of blooming flowers in summer.

It is not contradictory that highly saturated and surreal floral photography works are transformed into practical and fashionable fashion through tulle or pleating process.

This proper fashion interpretation and unique "Chinese style" of China artists' works is precisely because LILY always remembers that she is a brand that serves contemporary new women.

In this special year, LILY also pays special attention to women's perception of the current environment. The awe of nature, the admiration of art and the prospect of the future are all what we need most at this moment.

Focusing on the clothing itself, LILY can provide you with a wardrobe that can be used in all business occasions, and will never let you lose your fashion posture in business occasions.

For example, if I wear this dress on the show and take off my headscarf, I will never lose proper limit when I go to work or have a business meeting.

Look carefully, there are many details: an exaggerated doll collar, low-key pearls decorated on a sweater with distorted temperament, neat breeches and heroic boots to complete the shape.

This kind of complexity is exactly what Lily needs from independent, fashionable and multifaceted new and contemporary women in the workplace.

This big show also released the "Top Ten Items of Lily Business Fashion", which is suitable for all-weather workplace conditions, so that new women in each role can find appropriate dress expressions.

For example, a suit without lining becomes thinner, blurring the boundary between the coat and the inside. Overlapping or wearing more clothes is more convenient and more applicable.

A suit jumpsuit that you can go out when you catch it has both styling and saving a lot of matching time; Plastic short windbreaker, can change the length at will, with different clothing.

Pant type, street shooting and time-delay pants can be worn all day, 7/24, tops can be changed, and they can be seamlessly switched in business and entertainment occasions.

There are also colorful and comfortable pencil skirt, light jacket and shirt, "unconventional" shorts, artistic dresses, breathable sweaters in summer and light T-shirts in the workplace. Together, complete the workplace wardrobe with guaranteed artistic sense and attitude.

Which China artist do you want to see in the joint venture? Please leave a message and let me know. Maybe Lily will see your nomination and make it come true. As usual, choose five people and give Lily seasonal bags or accessories as gifts.

I also hope that the "inspiration" transformation mode of various works of art mentioned above can make more domestic brands pay attention to our great country's own art treasure house together; From a more contemporary perspective, let more people wear "Chinese style"!