The application method of flower photography!

Flower photography in photography, like landscape photography and portrait photography, has become an independent category, with flowers as the main creative theme and photographic object. Flower photography refers to the shooting of natural and artificial bonsai or still life with flowers as the main object. Flower photography has many special requirements in techniques, which are different from portrait and landscape photography.

Background processing is an important factor to determine the quality of flower photography. Background plays a role of contrast and contrast in flower photography composition, and it is particularly important to take color photos. Background is not the main object in the picture, but it occupies a large area on the picture. The simpler the composition of flowers, the larger the area occupied by the background, which is a factor that cannot be ignored in flower photography.

First, use natural conditions to choose the background and use local materials.

Natural scenery, such as sky, ground, grassland, lake, forest, etc. , you can choose as the background. For example, if you take a picture with lotus as the theme, the background can be varied, and the background of the later lens can be the sky. Upward shot can be made of water reflection as the background, and flat shot or oblique shot can be made of lotus leaf as the background. If you push the lotus far to the middle scene and use lotus leaves, lakes and mountains as the background, the result will be different.

Second, the artificial layout background

Use colored paper or colored cloth to set off the flowers as the background. The purity and brightness of the background color should not be too high. Generally speaking, the color should not be too fresh or too light, and the relationship between the color phase of the background color and the color phase of the main flower is better with the contrast color and the similar contrast color. The background color is generally dark, sometimes subject to the needs of the effect, but it can also be treated with light tone and high profile, but it should contain more gray, otherwise the background color will be too dazzling, which will destroy the whole subject and picture.

Third, the use of light.

The sunshine changes greatly in a day, which directly affects the angle of flower illumination and shooting effect. From the light analysis, within two hours after sunrise, the light is ideal and the modeling effect is good. It is best to shoot flowers in natural light. In the morning, because of the physiological function of flowers, they absorbed nutrients all night, and their colors were particularly bright and delicate. The shooting effect is very good, with clear colors, distinct layers, clear tones and moderate contrast.

General lighting angles are divided into five types, namely front light, side light, backlight, top light and scattered light.

Using front light shooting, the light distribution in the picture is large, and the light receiving surface of the flower is uniform, but the disadvantage is that the flower lacks three-dimensional sense and layering, and the color tone is dull. If you take a black-and-white photo, the effect is even worse, because the picture effect of black-and-white photos is expressed by the brightness of tones (that is, different levels of black, white and gray).

It is the most ideal and commonly used light to shoot flowers with side light (front side light or back side light). This kind of lighting has a good effect on flower modeling, with strong three-dimensional sense, distinct layers, moderate shadows and contrast, and harmonious and moderate contrast between color lightness and saturation.

When you shoot with top light, the light is projected on the top of the flower, and the front side receives less light, which leads to high contrast, lack of layering, poor color reproduction effect of the flower, high color temperature and easy blue photos, so this light is rarely used.

Using backlight photography, the light illuminates the object from the back, which can clearly outline the flowers and has a good modeling effect. If the petal texture is thin, it will be transparent or translucent, showing the texture, hierarchy and texture of the petal more delicately. When using this light source, we should pay special attention to the fact that the front of the flower must be full of light and set off with a darker background, so as to show the image of the flower more prominently.

Scattered light is also an ideal light source. It uses scattered light to shoot, which is not limited by the directionality of light source, with uniform light receiving surface, soft color tone and moderate contrast. If you choose to shoot the scattered light after the rain, the flowers will look clearer and more attractive.

When using a digital camera to shoot flowers, it is best to set the flash function to forced non-flashing mode, and then use the live light to choose the appropriate shooting angle to shoot.

There are ways to change pots and flowers.

Changing the pot is also called turning the pot. With the growth of flowers and plants, the small pots are gradually covered with roots, so it is necessary to replace them with larger flowerpots and add some culture soil to make the flowers get enough nutrients. It's called changing pots. Herbaceous flowers, biennial, need to change pots once or twice before flowering. Perennial flowers change pots every year 1 time; Woody flowers can change pots every 1 year. The purpose of changing pots is to improve the nutritional status of plants. For example, Milan, Rose, Jasmine, Poinsettia and Fusang need to turn pots 1 time every year, while Camellia, Orchid and Rhododendron grow slowly, but turn pots 1 time every other year.

For large-scale perennial potted flowers, due to the gradual development of roots and long-term watering, the soil in the pot will gradually decrease, the soil will become hard, the air permeability will gradually be worse than before, and the nutrients in the soil will gradually be insufficient.

Therefore, even if the big potted flower still uses the original pot, it is necessary to change the soil 1 time within at least two years, trim off some rotten roots, too long roots, rotten roots and roots invaded by pests and diseases, and add some new soil to help the plant continue to grow. It is best to change pots during the dormant period of flowers. Generally, woody and perennial flowers can be changed in March and turned over after flowering in early spring.

When turning the pot, first pry the pot soil around the pot wall with a knife, turn the pot over with one hand, then pat the pot wall to remove plants, and hold the plants with soil with the other hand. Then cut off some old soil outside the root system with a knife, cut off bad roots and some old roots, replant them in a pot, add new soil outside the soil ball for compaction, and then water it. The planting depth of flower seedlings remains the original state. Perennial flowers can be divided into plants while changing pots.

When changing large pots, in order to drain well, reduce weight and facilitate movement, a layer of furnace ash residue can be laid on the bottom of the pot, followed by a layer of soil, and some fish scales and broken bones can be added as base fertilizer to maintain long-term fertility.

Family hydroponic flower cultivation method

1. What are the difficulties of hydroponic flowers in summer? Hydroponics is the cultivation of ornamental plants with non-solid medium (water or water containing appropriate plant nutrient solution). At present, most family hydroponic flowers are cultured in still water, and the dissolved oxygen is lower than 1mg/l, so the flowers barely maintain their lives in anoxic containers. With the temperature rising in summer, the physiological metabolism of plants is vigorous, microorganisms multiply, the oxygen consumption increases sharply, the dissolved oxygen decreases continuously, and the water quality deteriorates, which may cause many unfavorable factors to the growth of hydroponic flowers, resulting in root rot, withered branches and leaves, and even premature death of plants and flowers. Therefore, in summer, in addition to preventing extreme heat and high temperature, improving the oxygen content of nutrient solution is the key to ensure the safety of hydroponic flowers in summer.

Second, how to improve the content of dissolved oxygen in nutrient solution?

There are many ways to increase dissolved oxygen, which can be summarized as chemical methods and physical methods. Here are some simple and effective methods.

1. Increasing the number of nutrient solution changes is the easiest way to increase dissolved oxygen. It is determined that the dissolved oxygen content of fresh nutrient solution is 70%-90% higher than that of the original solution, which can improve the physiological hypoxia of flowers in time. For flowers that have been rooted for 3-5 days, it is advisable to change the nutrient solution for 7 days at most. When replacing nutrient solution, it should be noted that the temperature difference between the new solution and the original solution should not be too large, which may cause physiological disorder of flower root system. When changing the liquid, wash the root system patiently with clear water, remove dead roots and rotten roots, cut the old roots short and grow new ones. If the nutrient solution suddenly becomes turbid or there are mosquito eggs, it should be replaced with a new nutrient solution immediately.

2. As long as the root system is clear and intact and the nutrient solution is thorough, hydroponic flowers can be oxygenated by vibration. The operation method is to hold the flowers in one hand and shake the vessel 10 times with the other hand, and the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution after shaking can be increased by more than 30%. For hydroponic flowers with turbid nutrient solution and poor root system development, it is not appropriate to adopt the method of vibration oxygenation, and all nutrient solutions must be replaced.

3. Inflate the container. If there is a tank of ornamental fish next to the hydroponic flowers, you can use the oxygen rod of the fish tank to inflate the container.

3. Where should the hydroponic flowers be placed in summer?

The flowers used in hydroponics are mostly shade-tolerant flowers and flowers with both leaves and leaves. If taro, white jade evergreen, silver bud taro, candle, pineapple, etc. These flowers are warm, slightly shade-tolerant, and avoid high temperature and dry heat. Hydroponics only changes the cultivation form, and it is impossible to change its growth habits, which requires environmental factors. In summer, it is best to place hydroponic flowers in a bright, slightly higher humidity, cooler and well-ventilated environment. Avoid direct sunlight, but don't be too cool, so as not to hinder the photosynthesis of flowers, weaken their growth, make the stems longer and the leaves thinner. The flower leaves with colored blocks and patterns have lost their luster.

4. Can hydroponic flowers be put in an air-conditioned room?

Of course. However, hydroponic flowers should not be placed directly at the air outlet of air conditioning. If the wind speed is too fast, the branches and leaves will be hurt, and the leaves will curl or wither. It should also be taken into account that the temperature of flowers is required to be higher during the day than at night. If the air conditioner is turned off at night, the ambient temperature is higher than the daytime temperature when the air conditioner is turned on, which is unfavorable for the growth of hydroponic flowers. When the air conditioner is turned on, put a pot of water next to the flowers or spray it on the leaves to increase the humidity of the environment. The flowers are placed far away from the air outlet of the air conditioner, so there is no problem that the temperature difference between day and night is not big.

5. What about hydroponic flowers and rotten roots?

With the continuous increase of temperature, the water temperature will also increase, microbial reproduction will accelerate, dissolved oxygen will decrease, and water quality will become worse. Improper addition of nutrient solution and high dissolution concentration may cause root rot of hydroponic flowers, especially pig's feet, horsetail (Millennium chrysanthemum) and five-color Millennium chrysanthemum of Liliaceae. The following methods can be used to restore the growth of flowers with rotten roots: a. Remove all rotten roots, and if the stems have been infected, cut off the infected parts with a sharp knife. B. Soak the trimmed flowers in 0.5% potassium permanganate solution 10-20min for sterilization. C, taking out the soaked flowers and washing them in running water. D put the washed flowers into the original vessel and plant them with clear water (the vessel should be cleaned). E, change the water once every 1-2 days, and only change the fresh water without changing the nutrient solution. The water quality is clear, which can reduce the number of water changes. After 10- 15 days of maintenance, new roots can sprout. F, the newly sprouted new roots are still cultivated with clear water, and when the temperature is stable at 18-25 degrees, they are cultivated with nutrient solution.

6. What should I do if the nutrient solution breeds algae?

Algae propagation in nutrient solution is a common phenomenon in the process of hydroponic flower cultivation. Especially in summer, the temperature is high, the transparency of utensils is good, and the environment is bright. Or it takes too long to replace the nutrient solution, which will lead to a large number of algae. Algae flowers carry oxygen, and secretions pollute the solution, which reduces the quality of nutrient solution. Algae attached to the roots of flowers hinder the respiration of roots and interfere with the normal physiological activities of flowers, which is extremely harmful. Once the nutrient solution breeds algae, the polluted solution should be poured out decisively, the utensils should be thoroughly cleaned, the algae attached to the flower roots should be brushed off, and a new nutrient solution should be replaced.

7. What fertilizer is used for hydroponic flowers? How to fertilize in summer?

Hydroponics is a special cultivation form, which belongs to soilless culture. The roots of flowers are anchored in water (or special plant nutrient solution), which is also called nutrient solution cultivation.

Hydroponic flowers should be cultivated with plant nutrient solution. However, different flowers need different nutrients at different growth stages. If five bottles, six bottles or even a dozen bottles of different varieties of hydroponic flowers are planted at the same time, it is unrealistic to buy a bottle of plant nutrient solution for each flower. Simply put, you can choose to use general plant nutrient solution.

Generally, plant nutrient solution generally contains all nutrient elements (including macro elements and trace elements) necessary for flower growth. The proportion of each element is balanced, the inorganic salt is ionic, the application range is wide, it is suitable for the needs of different flower varieties in the growth period, and it is non-toxic and harmless, and its pH value and ion concentration are beneficial to nutrient absorption. There are many kinds of plant nutrient solutions sold in the market. It is best to go to hydroponic flower shop to buy products with good reputation from manufacturers.

There are different opinions on whether to cultivate with nutrient solution or only with clear water in summer. According to the author's experience, flowers with high temperature resistance and vigorous growth should be cultivated with nutrient solution; Flowers with slender roots, semi-dormancy and dormancy at 30℃ are cultivated only with clear water. Such as silver-bracted taro, green radish, small turtle back bamboo, ruby, taro and so on. It is suitable to cultivate with nutrient solution to maintain the growth advantage and improve the ornamental grade. Flowers such as colored grass, bamboo begonia and pineapple can spend the summer safely with a bottle of clear water.

The proportion of nutrient solution should strictly follow the instructions, and the concentration should not be increased at will. Because the root tissue structure of flowers germinated by hydroponics has changed, it is looser and larger than that of soil culture. The cell wall becomes thinner and absorbs water, nutrients and oxygen directly from the nutrient solution, which is extremely sensitive to the concentration of the nutrient solution. Too high a concentration is harmful to flowers. As long as the concentration of major elements is not lower than 1 liter, the lower concentration is beneficial to the growth of flowers. It is advisable to change the nutrient solution every five days in summer.

Eight, can you change the flowers planted in the soil into hydroponic flowers in summer?

It is most suitable to change soil-cultured flowers into hydroponic flowers in spring and autumn, when the temperature is around 15 ~ 25℃, which is suitable for flower growth and easy to adapt to the changing cultivation environment. The following factors should be considered to change the cultivation form of summer flowers: ① Choose the quality close to the relationship between wet flowers. ② Flowers that still grow normally and develop well when the temperature is around 30℃. The experiment proved that the survival rate of Araceae taro, tortoise plastron, ruby taro, Hulk, green radish and some bromeliad flowers increased after changing from soil culture to hydroponics in summer. They quickly adapted to hydroponics, and their roots rarely rotted. After 15 ~ 20 days of culture, not only lateral roots grow on the old roots, but also rhizome tips can germinate and take root. When changing from soil culture to hydroponics, the soil in the flower rhizosphere should be removed. Rinse repeatedly to protect the root system from damage or less damage, take a large-capacity vessel for cultivation, change the water once a day, and change the water once every 2-3 days after five days until the water roots grow to 5 cm long, and cultivate with low-concentration plant nutrient solution.

Application of all-light spray cutting seedling raising technology in flowers

For many excellent flower varieties with great value and difficult to take root, the conventional cutting seedling raising method not only consumes a lot of manpower and material resources, but also has slow propagation speed, low survival rate, small quantity and short supply. In order to improve the survival rate of cutting and reduce the cost of flowers, we adopted the full-light spray cutting seedling raising technology, which effectively solved the problem of difficult rooting of flower varieties, and the survival rate reached over 95%. At the same time, it also shortens the cultivation cycle of mass production of flowers and has considerable economic benefits. The specific methods are summarized as follows: 1, establishment of transplanting bed and installation of equipment.

The bed insertion should be in a place with flat terrain, good ventilation, sufficient sunshine, convenient drainage and close to water and power supply. According to the radius of .6 m and the height of 40cm, make a circular slotting machine with high middle and low periphery. Leave a drain at the bottom every 1.5m, and install an all-optical automatic intermittent spraying device introduced by the Science and Technology Information Center of the State Forestry Administration in the center of the slotting bed. The device consists of a foliar moisture controller and a symmetrical double long-arm circumferential scanning spraying mechanical system. Under the bed 15cm pebbles, 25cm thick river sand. Before mowing, spray the seedbed with 0.2% potassium permanganate or 0.0 1% carbendazim.

2. Insertion time

From the end of May to the middle of September.

3. Cutting varieties

There are more than 0/0 species of woody and herbal flowers such as bougainvillea, jasmine, Milan, rubber tree, Dutch begonia, hibiscus, rose, chrysanthemum, safflower, marigold and snapdragon.

4. Cutting and machining

When cutting woody flowers, annual semi-lignified shoots with leaves are used as cuttings, and when cutting herbaceous flowers, tender stems with leaves are used as micro-cuttings. When cutting, first cut off the shoots at the top of the new shoots, then cut the cuttings into 8- 10cm, leave more than 2 buds at the top, and cut off the leaves on the cuttings. Only one or less leaves are needed for larger leaves, and the cutting area is generally about 10, and 2-3 leaves are needed for smaller leaves. Note that the upper incision is flat and the lower incision is slightly inclined. Bundle every 50 leaves. Before cutting, the cuttings or their parts were soaked in 0.0 1%-0. 125% carbendazim solution, and then the base was quickly dipped in ABT rooting powder No.65438 +0.000 x 10.

5. Logging and post-logging management

The cutting depth is 2-3 cm, and the cutting density is 400-500 plants/mu. Spray 1 times water permeability immediately after cutting, and spray 0.0 1% carbendazim solution in the morning and evening the next day to avoid infection. After that, spray every 7 days 1 time. When rooting begins, spray 0. 1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate. Spraying 1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate after rooting promotes root lignification. At the same time, clean the fallen leaves on the seedbed at any time.

Using this technology to raise seedlings, bougainvillea, jasmine and Milan began to take root after 25-30 days, and the rooting rate reached over 90%. After15-20 days, Hevea brasiliensis, hibiscus, Rosa rugosa and Begonia Netherlands began to take root, and the rooting rate was over 95%. Chrysanthemum, salvia miltiorrhiza, marigold and snapdragon took root in 7- 10d, and the rooting rate was over 98%.

Step 6 transplant

The transplanting time should be after 5: 00 pm and before 10: 00 am, and it can be transplanted all day on cloudy days. In order to improve the survival rate of transplanting, water should be stopped for 3-5 days before planting, and seedlings should be transplanted with them. After transplanting, put the flowerpot under the sunshade net, water it for the second time after 7 days, and gradually move it to the sun for daily management and cultivation after 15 days.