How to turn on the lights in photo photography?

Step 1: You need a completely dark place to wind the film onto the reel. If you don't have a darkroom, a dark compartment will do. To test whether this hut can be used first, you should stand in this hut for three minutes to see if there is any light leakage. If there is no light leakage, this place can be used. If there is light leakage, block it with a towel or something else. Winding the film around the CD is the only place that needs a little skill in the whole development work. This place is a place where you can't make mistakes. You should practice hard. You can practice with a roll of waste film until you are confident that it will be done in black. Close your eyes or be completely black. After you do this exercise, you will save a lot of things, reduce your waste and avoid your future development. In fact, it is easy to wrap the film on the film reel. Just put the developing tank, film tray, developing tank cover and scissors where you can easily touch them in the dark, and then prepare the chemical solution to wash them. Dilute the liquid medicine according to the manufacturer's instructions. Let the potion reach the proper temperature, and now you can continue. Open the 35 mm film cassette and take out the film from the cassette. Do not touch the film surface with your fingers. You can only hold both sides of the film at any time, and don't rub its surface. Cut a narrow section of the opening with scissors. Carefully continue to roll the film onto the reel and follow the instructions of the developer. You must gently bend the two sides of the film into a tile shape, as shown in the above picture, or the film will not continue. If you use 120 film, you can continue the film in the same way, and the black paper on the back of the film should be removed when continuing the film. When you roll the whole film into the groove of the reel, don't let the film slip out of the groove or overlap. When finished, put the CD into the developing tank, and then cover the developing tank tightly. Now you can turn on the light and do the following work under normal indoor light. The above process is shown in Figure 5.5- Figure 5.8. Step 2: Inject the developer. First of all, you need to pour the developer you need into the measuring cup, and pour enough developer so that it can completely immerse the film in the developing tank. At this time, you should check the temperature, set the timer to the time you are ready to use, and then start it. At this time, you should immediately pour the developer into the developing tank, pour it through the opaque opening, and pour it quickly and continuously. It should be emptied in less than 20 seconds, that is, if the capacity of your developing tank is 16 oz (if it is used for a long time, your development may not be uniform enough, because the film at the bottom of the developing tank will take longer than the film at the top of the developing tank. ) When pouring developer, it is best to tilt the developing tank slightly instead of laying it flat. This is easy to pour, and it is not easy to collect bubbles. (See Figure 5.9) Step 3: Stir. When the developer tank is full of developer, tap it gently on a hard surface, such as the table top or the bottom of the sink, so that bubbles attached to the film can escape. Then turn the developer tank upside down for three times and then lay it flat. This reverse stirring force and method is carried out every 30 seconds until all the development time is over. Be sure to follow the suggestions provided by the developers. The above recommended development steps are applicable to most development solutions. Note: When taking the developing tank, don't just take its cover, but actually take the whole developing tank. How to stir has an effect on the development speed. The more stirring, the faster the development speed. You must maintain consistent development steps in order to achieve sustained results. How you stir it affects the degree of development, so you should stir it in the same way every time to regulate your stirring, just as you regulate the time and temperature of development. Rinse your thermometer and measuring cup between stirs. Then pour enough developer into the measuring cup to fill the developing tank. Check the temperature of developer stop liquid, so that the temperature difference between developer stop liquid and developer stop liquid is less than L-2 degrees. If the developer used is too cold or too hot, it is not good. The sudden change of temperature will shrink or expand the wet and soft membrane emulsion. The expansion and contraction of latex film will produce a bad effect, which is wrinkling, so it is necessary to keep the temperature accurate from beginning to end. Important: Don't forget to tap the developing tank on the hard surface, that is, tap the developing tank after loading the developer. We find that the most common problem in students' development is that there are traces caused by bubbles on the negative. Tapping the developing tank on the hard surface according to the instructions will help to avoid such problems. Step 4: Pour out the developer. When your timer rings according to the required development time, pour out the developer quickly. Accurate time is very important. If the developer can be reused, use a funnel to pour it back into the bottle where the developer is stored. This bottle has been filled with supplementary liquid according to the regulations. If the developer is not the kind that can be reused with supplementary liquid, but can only be used once, it should be poured into the sink. Step 5: Inject developer. Inject developer quickly and continuously, and stir the developing tank, just like you stir the developer. The time to stop development in the solution is not strict. When acetic acid is used as the development stopping solution, half a minute is enough. Step 6: Pour out the developing stopping liquid, and pour the used developing stopping liquid into the water outlet of the sink. -Some products with color stopping liquid have indicators, which can be used until the color stopping liquid changes, that is, it can be used again before it changes color, so you can pour such color stopping liquid back into the bottle containing it. Wash the measuring cup, funnel and thermometer with water. Step 7: Inject fixative. When the developer stops developing, the fixing agent should keep the same temperature. Set timer, pay attention to fixed time and fixed start time. Inject fixative into the developing tank, stir for 30 seconds, and then lose 65,438+00 seconds per minute. Wash your tableware between each stirring. Theoretically, after the film is soaked in low-pressure liquid for one minute, you can take off the shading cover on the developing tank and look at the film without damaging it. However, this is not practical because the film has been wound on the reel. You'd better refuse the temptation to take a quick look. Although the fixed time is not very strict, it should be standardized according to the manufacturer's instructions. If the film is left in the fixing solution for too long, the film will be bleached by the waves, that is, the film will become thinner. If the fixing time is not enough, some milky residue will accumulate on the film. These two shortcomings will make it difficult to print photos or not print them at all. Step 8: When the fixing time is up, pour it back into the original bottle with a funnel and make a good record, that is, how many rolls of film have been fixed by the fixing solution, especially how many rolls of film have been fixed by the fixing solution per quart and gallon. A gallon is equivalent to 4.5 liters, so throw it away before the fixer runs out. Now you can take off the shading cover on the developing tank, and your negative is no longer afraid of light.

Step 9: Wash the film with water.

Immerse the film in the water in the container on the reel. Now, the developed film can be taken out and developed in water for 45 minutes. According to the temperature of development and fixing, the residual waves should be washed clean by water. When washing, water can also be introduced into the central hole of the developing tank plate with a water pipe, so that the water can be washed directly through the film. As shown in the photo, put the disc in a measuring cup for cleaning. If only water is injected into the developing tank, the water above is changing and changing, while the water at the bottom of the developing tank remains unchanged. It is very important to change all the water. To further ensure thorough washing, some chemicals are called builders. You can buy it in photographic equipment stores, one of which is called low-pressure agent, which is a product of Kodak, and the other is called PERMAWASH, which is a product of Haikou Company. Immediately after fixation, the membrane was rinsed in water for 30 seconds, then immersed in hypo scavenger 1-2 minutes while gently stirring, then rinsed in water for 5 minutes and in running water for 5 minutes. If saving water is important, change the water every 1 minute, five times. After washing with water, put the film in a container with a small amount of anti-sticking agent. Antifouling agents should be diluted according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer. If the anti-staining agent is too strong and harmful to the membrane, stir for about 30 seconds. Anti-fouling agent can reduce the surface tension of water, so that water can not adhere to the film. Therefore, it is helpful to prevent the film from forming some unpleasant water stains caused by water droplets during drying. And drying can be accelerated, so that dust does not fall on the film when the film is wet during the drying process; The anti-fouling agent should be diluted, and the solution of the anti-fouling agent should not be directly poured on the membrane tray, because bubbles will be generated. Instead, put the solution into a container, and then put the CD into it, as shown in Figure 5. 15. Step 1 1: film hanging and air drying. After these steps are completed, clamp the film and hang it. As shown in Figures 5. 16 and 5. 17. First, you need to remove excess water. In order to remove excess water, there are various things that can be used. There is a sponge clip (that is, a clip with a sponge stuck in it). This sponge clip is recommended as an auxiliary tool to dry the film at one time. We think it's best to use mucus sponge, which is specially made by some manufacturers for photographic purposes. There is a logical problem, that is, the manufacturer said that the film can be hung and dried when it is taken out of the wetting agent. Do we need anything to wipe the film? There are several reasons that can be explained here: A: After the excess water is wiped off, the film will dry faster, which can reduce the possibility of dusting or other damage. B: Remove excess water and remove any particles in the water on the surface of the film. C: Remove the antifouling agent gently to avoid leaving spots on the surface of the negative due to excessive antifouling agent or impurities in water. In order to remove excess water from the film, you should use a sponge to clamp it. You can use Dubang No.8 sponge or other equivalent sponge to cut into pieces. These slices can be about the size of bread slices (that is, 1/2×3×5 inches). Wash these sponge pieces thoroughly, then squeeze them out, and then clip the clips on the film, but be sure to use the sponge to absorb the excess water first. Excess water in the clamp should also be removed. Clamp the membrane head with two sponges to absorb excess water, then clamp the clamp at one end of the membrane and hang it on a hook or nail on the ceiling or a rope for drying clothes. After the film is hung, use a sponge to pick it up, gently apply a little pressure and wipe it from top to bottom. Now put another clip on the lower end of the film. You can make a water drop to drop the lower end of the film to prevent the film from curling during drying. The hanging film must be hung in a dust-free place, not in a place that often needs to walk around with dust, and away from the wall or where it can be pasted. In the initial stage of drying, the film will bend or roll up, just like an angry snake, and it is easy to get anything near it. If you want to hang more than one roll of film, you must keep a distance of at least 10 to 12 inches between the two rolls of film, and don't let the wind or airflow bring them too close. Now clean your sponge, squeeze out the excess water and put it in a clean plastic bag. They will remain moist for two to four weeks, and it is best to keep the sponge moist between uses. The realm of photo photography has gone through 150 years since its birth. In this long period, photography and painting have been closely related. Many early photos imitated the painting style, not only in composition, but also in lighting. So photography is also called "painting with light". One of the reasons for the close relationship between photography and painting in the early years is that the film speed in the early years is very slow and it takes a long time to expose, so it is impossible to shoot moving images; On the other hand, the equipment is very precious, so it is very important to use it carefully. I hope to reduce the chance of failure, so I use the method of arranging photography every time I shoot, hoping that the shooting effect will be perfect. Another reason is that the filmmakers who engaged in artistic photography in the early days were painters themselves, so they naturally applied painting techniques to photography when shooting works. For example, in lighting portrait lighting technology, the light with a 45-degree angle is also called "Rembrandt light", because Rembrandt likes to use this angle light to illuminate characters when painting (Rembrandt was a famous painter at that time). Since then, photography has gradually developed, with the improvement and invention of photography technology, the improvement of film sensitivity and the enhancement of lens sensitivity, photography is no longer limited to the studio and no longer stays in a fixed scenery state. The scope of photography has been greatly expanded, and it has gradually become one of the visual arts because of its profound and touching works, squeezing into the forest of art. Until today, there are many schools of painting and many similar photography schools. Among them, photo photography is the oldest, most time-tested and most appreciated photography. At present, international salons held all over the world account for a large proportion, and the emerging "new school" salons have not yet replaced the status of painting salons, which can be seen here. When we talk about a photographic work, it is difficult to avoid using a term in painting-picture. "Face" refers to a two-dimensional "plane", while "painting" refers to a picture, that is, painting. Although this painting was not painted, it was made with photographic equipment and technology. Things that do not belong to the category of painting can borrow the terms of painting without misunderstanding, which shows that painting has a deep influence on photography. And the word "picturesque" photography is completely inseparable from painting. Portrait photography can be said to be a photographer's pursuit of interest and realm in painting art, trying to imitate painting art. All the techniques that can be used in painting art (such as composition and lighting) can be applied to photography, and they are effective, that is, in composition, triangles, diagonals, symmetry and balance, and Huang Jinlv are all techniques in painting. When applied to photography, they also produce beautiful, perfect, concise and neat effects. Lighting technology of portrait photography. The long-term practice of photo photography has proved that it can bring a high degree of aesthetic feeling to viewers, achieve the same purpose as painting art to convey the author's artistic views and artistic talents, provide considerable aesthetic feeling to human society and enrich people's cultural and artistic life in society. We can be sure that among many photography schools, photo photography has made and will continue to make contributions to enriching people's cultural and artistic life in society and bringing people beautiful feelings. In view of the far-reaching influence of painting art on photography, the pictures of photo photography are too close to the face of painting. For a long time, it has been considered that photography is difficult to break through the shackles of painting in terms of creative concepts, techniques and even forms and techniques. In fact, among many art media, photography can be said to be the youngest. It is very natural that it absorbs the advantages of other art media for its own use and strives to strengthen itself. It can not only absorb painting techniques, but also absorb other advantages such as drama, music, literature and sculpture. Just because painting and photography belong to graphic art and have more similarities in nature, it is easy to borrow mirrors. When we are engaged in photo photography, we can focus on "the interest and realm of painting", but we don't have to imitate it completely. When a painter paints, he has his own painting realm in mind. When he paints his mind with a brush, it becomes a painting. We photographers can also use photographic tools and materials to express the artistic conception in our minds. If the photographer's mind is picturesque, why blame it for being the same as painting? Black and white film development-use black pockets. If you don't have a suitable darkroom or darkroom to hold the film, you can use a black bag or a film bag. A black pocket is such a thing that it is actually a soft darkroom. In fact, the structure of this pocket is equivalent to a sweater, but it is opaque and stitched up and down. When in use, unzip the zipper at the bottom of the pocket, then put the negative film and the developing tank in, and then lock the zipper. There are two openings at the other end, and the elastic band at the opening is equivalent to two sleeves. Put your hands into your sleeves, and then pull up both sleeves until they can't be pulled. At this time, both the developing tank and the film can be touched by hand. Because the top and bottom are sealed and there is a dark area inside, it is safe and comfortable to film. I suggest you find some waste films to practice loading in the developing tank first, and then take the finished films to the developing tank after you are proficient in loading. Note that this black pocket is not only used when developing film, but also useful when taking pictures. If there is something wrong with your camera when taking pictures, you can put it in a black pocket and touch the film again to solve the problem. If the trouble can't be solved, you can safely unload the film in the dark bag from the camera and then deal with the camera. Black-and-white film development-After film development is arranged, we will tell you how to set up a multifunctional darkroom, but you don't need it yet. As long as there is a room that can supply running water, it can be used for development, such as kitchen, bathroom and laundry room.