Introduction to basic knowledge of photography

Introduction to basic knowledge of photography

Introduction to photography basics We will see beautiful scenery in our daily life, so we will want to record it with a camera, but photography is still difficult for us to get started, so we should learn some basic knowledge. The following is an introduction to the basic knowledge of photography.

Basic knowledge of photography 1 ① Basic ethics of photographers-never be an annoying photographer.

1. Use flash carefully-don't use flash at meetings, stages or concerts, because your flash will affect others. When you want to take pictures, it will affect the performance of the people on the stage and other audiences. Secondly, the overhead flash is definitely not enough, because there is such a thing as "flash index"! In addition, it also destroys the light and shadow of your own pictures. Corresponding measures, large aperture, improve ISO!

2. pa. When you suddenly find a situation worth shooting, you might as well record this moment, but when there is a front of a character in your photo, or when the character is the main composition object, you should get the permission of the party concerned, or try not to publish it unless you are a reporter. If the parties don't like being photographed, don't take pictures, which is a kind of disrespect. )

Good photo = skilled camera adjustment+shooting angle+shooting opportunity+good composition+inner thinking+shooting experience.

② "concept" of photography

SLR cameras imitate people's vision, and what you see with your eyes can be accurately restored into photos with SLR cameras and passed on to others, so that they can be there. (personal opinion)

When we pick up the camera to take pictures, the question is in front of us: What do you want to take? Or what do you want to convey through photos, a person, a thing, or a person? The expression of photography is like writing an article. Before you start writing, you must "conceive" your article and create the central idea of an article. Also known as the entertainment center.

It is very important to establish the "intention" of a photo. A careless photo is the same as a "waste". Looking at a photo is like listening to an incoherent person. You can't understand what he really wants to say.

A photo can only be used to explain one thing!

If we try to express many problems in one photo, it can be said that it is a failure. It is also beautiful and interesting to be reluctant to part with many useless elements when composing music. Many beautiful things together lead to the observer's vision drifting away, thus making the "conception" decline.

Painting composition is addition, and simple photographic composition is subtraction. The real photographic composition is to increase information and elements as much as possible without affecting the concept of the picture. Everything depends on the purpose of communication (except for special photography such as photo id or portrait).

③ Basic knowledge

1. Holding the camera in the right posture can effectively avoid camera shake. Avoid holding the camera handle with one hand and the zoom or focus ring of the lens with the other hand. The two hands should not be in a straight line, but form an included angle, which is relatively more stable. When holding the camera, the big arm should clamp the body hard and the small arm should relax, otherwise it will shake easily. The two arms are staggered one after the other to form a stable included angle.

2. Use optical viewfinder or EVF viewfinder. Triangular bracket is the most stable, use optical or EVF viewfinder to view, and try to avoid LCD viewing. Because of the optical or EVF viewfinder, people's brow bones can be tightly attached to the viewfinder to form a triangular stable support by hand.

3. Correct standing posture. When shooting, you should step forward. Put one foot in the back, but don't let both feet be in a straight line. In addition, when shooting, the thighs should be tightened and the calves should be relaxed to avoid the foundation shaking affecting stability.

4. Learn to adjust your heartbeat and breathing. Because of the heartbeat and breathing, people are actually shaking at any time, but we can take a deep breath to stabilize ourselves, and then exhale and inhale smoothly. Hold your breath when you press the shutter to minimize jitter.

5, learn to press the shutter half. Don't just press the shutter when you see the scene. The stroke of the camera shutter is divided into two steps, that is, the shutter will start when the camera starts autofocus and photometry with half-pressing the shutter, and the shutter will start when it is fully pressed. Otherwise, you can't measure or focus correctly, the image is virtual and the exposure is not accurate. When you press the shutter, it should be smooth and soft.

6. Exposure within the safe shutter time range.

7. Try to turn on anti-shake when holding it. When installing the tripod, please turn off the anti-shake to avoid the interference of the anti-shake system.

8. Don't take pictures with your camera bag on your back or something in your hand. If you are exposed for a long time, put down all your equipment, and the extra load will make your body out of balance. It is easy to cause physical fatigue and jitter.

9. Find a stable support. If the shutter speed displayed by the metering value is much longer than the safe shutter speed, and there is no tripod at hand, you can find some stable brackets for emergency shooting at this time. For example, leaning against a tree or a wall is more stable than standing without support. When the exposure time is between 1-3 seconds, you can often get good results by pressing the camera tightly on the bracket with both hands and keeping it stable.

Sometimes you can put the camera directly on the ground or on the wall to shoot, and the stability is comparable to a tripod. If you are shooting scenery and other objects, you can also put the camera in the camera bag or bean bag to take a selfie. Bean bag is a kind of bag filled with beans or ceramsite, which can be deformed at will and is not easy to wear the camera.

10, make good use of tripods and monopods. The attitude of the tripod to the photographer. The biggest trouble for people who have just started to touch the camera is that the hand holding the camera can't keep steady and shake. Although many cameras have anti-shake function, they can't cope with large jitter. Especially when shooting at night, jitter is more likely to cause inaccurate focus and blurred photos. Besides shooting more and practicing more, shooting with a camera on a tripod is the most reliable.

1 1, make good use of RAW format! If the memory card is large enough for the scenery, use the RAW format, which can keep more details of the light and dark parts, make it easier to correct the white balance and tone, and provide the maximum space for post-processing.

④ Aperture

In the lens, there is a circular aperture with variable aperture. This structure is called an aperture. The blades that make up the aperture are called "aperture blades". Theoretically, the more blades there are, the more natural and round Jiao Wai will be. The aperture on the fuselage is usually represented by f-, such as F5, 6, F8, F 16. We call it aperture value, or aperture for short. The larger the number, the smaller the aperture.

Figuratively speaking, the aperture is the pupil.

The light is dark, the pupils are dilated, and the amount of light entering increases. The light is strong, the pupil is narrowed, and the amount of light entering is reduced.

The aperture size determines the amount of light passing through per unit time. The greater the value of f, the more light passes through it.

Conclusion:

Large aperture, shallow depth of field, blurred background. Increase the shutter speed (shoot more people) under the same conditions (for example, F 1, 8).

Small aperture, deep scenery and clear front and back. Under the same conditions, lower the shutter speed (use more large scenes) (such as F22).

The larger the aperture, the better the imaging quality, but with the increase of aperture, the aberration will increase sharply, resulting in poor imaging quality. In addition, a small aperture will produce diffraction (in digital photography, a small aperture will increase the exposure time and make the image appear noise), which will reduce the image quality. Therefore, the best aperture value is the balance point to avoid the above two phenomena, that is, the maximum aperture value is low 1 to level 2. For example, 50 F 1, 8, reduce it to F4 for the best definition!

Introduction to the basic knowledge of photography II. The correct way to hold the camera

In the basic knowledge of shooting, the most important thing is to hold the camera steady. No matter how well other photographic elements and techniques are mastered, as long as there is vibration at the moment of shooting, the quality of photos will be greatly reduced because of blurred images.

Although tripods can be used to reduce the possibility of vibration, most of them are shot with hand-held cameras, and photographers are often not allowed to spend time placing tripods and fixed cameras at "decisive moments".

Compared with traditional cameras, digital cameras require higher shooting stability. This is because electronic components need extra time to store information, which is often called "time lag".

1, the correct posture of the machine.

Whether standing, sitting or kneeling, the correct posture for holding the machine should be:

(1). Hold the handshake position on the camera side with your right hand, and touch the shutter button with your index finger to shoot at any time.

(2) Hold the bottom of the fuselage with the palm of your left hand, and hold the camera with your thumb and forefinger to stabilize the lens.

(3) Keep your hands and upper arms close to your body, and try to keep them drooping naturally and close to your body. Never shrug your shoulders. Because the shoulder is lifted for a long time, the shoulder will feel tired and it is more difficult to stabilize the camera.

(4) When holding the camera vertically, generally, the left hand is down and the right hand is up, but also pay attention to the left arm close to the body.

2. Matters needing attention when standing or sitting down for photography

(1), when standing for photography, you should stretch your feet slightly, or stand back and forth, so that you can put your whole body weight on your feet. If you can rely on some fixed objects, such as leaning against the trunk or wall, the effect is better.

(2) Sitting photography has high stability, but foreign objects can still be used to further stabilize the body. A chair back or a table is a good choice.

3. Precautions for kneeling photography

When kneeling, the left foot should be arched, the right foot should kneel on the ground, and the left hand at the bottom of the fuselage should be lifted and supported on the arched left foot. In general, it is difficult to keep your body steady on your knees. It is best to rely on fixed objects, such as trees and walls.

4. The important role of video tape

Put the camera strap on your wrist, hold it in the tiger's mouth for two turns and then tighten it. After putting your thumb through the strap, hold the camera tightly, so that the camera can be integrated with your right hand, which can not only reduce the tremor of your hand, but also hold the camera when you accidentally let go, so as not to fall to the ground and be damaged.

Second, the use of light.

Photos are light and shadow. It is no exaggeration to say that light is the soul of photography. To take good photos, you have to master the key element of light.

1, the properties of light

(1) direct light

On sunny days, the sun shines directly on the subject without any obstruction, and the light-receiving surface will produce bright shadows, while the light-receiving surface will form obvious shadows. This light is called "direct light". Under the "direct light", there will be a very obvious contrast between the light-receiving surface and the non-light-receiving surface, which is easy to produce a three-dimensional sense.

When the sun is blocked by thin clouds, the sunlight will still diffuse through the white clouds, and the resulting illumination contrast will be reduced, which is very suitable for portrait photography.

(2) Scattered light

On cloudy days, sunlight is blocked by clouds, so it can't shine directly on the subject. It can only shine on the subject through the intermediate medium or through reflection, and the light will have scattering effect. This light is called "scattered light". Because the light receiving surface and shadow surface formed by scattered light are not obvious, the contrast between light and shade is weak, and the change of light and shadow is soft, so the effect is flat and soft.

"Direct light" will produce light with strong contrast, resulting in thicker shadows, less tonal changes, and harder lines and tones of the captured image. And "scattered light" will produce light with weak contrast, so the shadow is shallower, the color tone changes more abundantly, and more and more soft image lines and colors will be obtained. So photographers should choose the right light according to different situations.

2. Different directions of light projection

Shooting the same scene, using light projected in different directions will produce different effects.

(1) Guang Shun

The light coming out from the back of the camera and facing the subject is called "smooth light". The characteristics of "Guang Shun" lighting are: most objects are directly illuminated, the shadow area is not large, and the color of objects is relatively clear. The contrast between light and shade formed by this kind of light is weak, and the three-dimensional sense of an object can not be reflected mainly by illumination light, but by its own ups and downs. So the three-dimensional sense is weak.

(2) Front side lamp

The light from the left or right rear of the camera to the subject is called "front light". Most objects that receive light will receive light, resulting in a brighter surface, so the color tone is brighter, and the area of the object that is not exposed to light will not be too large, but it can already show the light and dark distribution and three-dimensional shape of the object. This kind of light can not only keep the bright hue, but also show the three-dimensional form of the main body.

(3) Side lights

The light from the left or right side of the camera is called "sidelight". It will make half of the subject receive light, while the other half is in the shadow, which is beneficial to show the ups and downs of the subject.

Because the "side light" illumination increases the shadow area of the object, the color of the picture is not bright or dark, and the light and dark are mixed, which is not as bright as the "front light" and "front side light", but it is not too gloomy. Three-dimensional form will be better.

(4) Side backlight

The light from the left or right front of the camera is called "side backlight". It makes the object produce a small part of the light receiving surface and most of the shadow surface, so the color tone will be darker. This kind of lighting will have a better stereoscopic effect on the object than "smoothing", but it is still weak.

(5) Backlight

"Backlight" is the light from the back of the subject and the front of the camera. Most objects are in the shadows. Because the light is weak, the three-dimensional sense is weak, and the tone is gloomy. However, "backlight" can be used to sketch the silhouette and outline of an object, and it can also highlight the texture and shape of the object and clearly show the lines of the object. Using "backlight" in clear weather will produce a strong contrast.

(6) dome light

The light from above an object is called "top light". The sunshine at noon is a good example. "Top light" often causes a strong shadow to the subject. If it is used in portrait photography, it will form a dark shadow under the nose, eyes and jaw of the face.

(7) Bottom lamp

The light source of "bottom light" is located below the subject. This kind of light is rare in daily life experience, so it has weird and dramatic effects and is rarely used in general photography.

3. Contrast of light

"Contrast" refers to the tonal relationship between "brightest" and "darkest" on the subject. The so-called "strong contrast" means that the brightest part and the darkest part of the light on the subject are very different, and the change from the brightest to the darkest is very strong, and the contrast is very strong. Relatively speaking, "weak contrast" means that the difference between the brightest part and the darkest part is not too big, and the change from the brightest part to the darkest part is very smooth, which makes the tone very rich.

Basic knowledge of photography 3 1, the wider the light source, the softer the light. Conversely, the narrower the light source, the harder the light.

A wide range of light sources can weaken shadows, reduce contrast and suppress textures, while a narrow light source has the opposite effect. This is because the wider the light source, the more directions the light shines on the object, which will increase the lighting in the scene and reduce the shadows.

Tip: Arrange the portrait theme next to a big bright window to avoid direct sunlight. Windows can play the role of soft boxes, and the studio does not need special equipment.

The closer the light source is, the softer the light is.

Conversely, the farther the light source is, the harder the light is. This is because the closer the light source is to the subject, the bigger it is, and the wider it is; The farther the light source is from the subject, the smaller it is, that is, the narrower it is.

Take the sun as an example. The diameter of the sun is 109 times that of the earth. It's a fairly wide light source! However, the sun is 93 million miles away from the earth (about10.5 billion kilometers), which only accounts for a very small part of the earth's sky, so the light is very hard when the sun shines directly on objects.

Tip: When you shoot a portrait indoors with existing lighting, you can change the distance between the light source and the subject to make the light of the photo more moving.

3. Diffuse reflection can disperse light, making the light source wider and the light softer.

The essence of using diffuse scattering to disperse light is to broaden the light source, so as to achieve the purpose of softening light. When clouds block sunlight, the shadow on the object will be obviously reduced, and if there is fog, the shadow will disappear. Clouds, gloomy skies and fog will diffuse light, and diffusion will spread light in all directions. On cloudy and foggy days, the whole sky will become a very broad light source and a natural soft box.

Tip: materials such as translucent plastic or white fabric can be used to diffuse strong light. You can add a soft mask in front of the artificial light source, such as a studio flash; If you are in bright sunlight, you can also use a hood or soft box to soften the light.

4. Reflect diffused light

Shooting a narrow beam on a large frosted surface (such as a wall, roof or frosted reflector) will spread to a wider area when reflected.

But if you use a smooth reflector, the light will still be narrow after being reflected. A mirror is an extremely smooth reflector. The light it reflects is almost as narrow as the incident light.

Tip: Knead a large piece of aluminum foil into a ball, spread it out and wrap it on a piece of cardboard, and a soft light reflector will be made. Although the diffusion effect of this self-made reflector is not as good as that of the white matte reflector, it can add shiny spots to the photos.

5. The farther the light source is, the faster the light decays and the darker the subject is.

This law points out that the illumination of an object is inversely proportional to the square of the distance. It sounds complicated, but it's actually very simple. For example, if you increase the distance from the light source to the subject by 1 time, the light falling on the subject is only a quarter of that before increasing the distance.

In other words, the light will decay rapidly with the distance from the light source. We should remember this rule. If you want to move the light source or the subject, you must change the quality of the light.

It should also be noted that even if a smooth reflector is used, the distance traveled by the reflected light will increase.

Tip: When shooting portraits outdoors in bad weather, you should use a flash (hot boots or pop-ups), which can eliminate the shadow on the face of the person and will not affect the exposure of the background, because the light emitted by the flash can be ignored when it reaches the background.

6. Light attenuation can be used to change the relationship between the subject and the background.

If the light is close to the subject, the illumination between the subject and the background will be more obvious; If the light is far away from the subject, the background will light up accordingly.

This principle also applies to side light: when the side light source is close to the subject, the light attenuation of the whole picture will be more obvious than when the light source is far away from the subject.

Tip: If the front light of the subject is the light outside the window, then putting the subject close to the window can darken the indoor background. If you want to make the indoor background brighter, you should keep the subject away from the window and close to the background.